• Human Ecology Research
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• 제55권5호
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• pp.481-490
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• 2017

This study considered the performing arts culture with a focus on Palgwanhoe Ceremony and various stunt-songs and dance (Baekhee-Gamoo) from the Goryeo period as well as examined the characteristics of performing arts' costume for Baekhee-Gamoo shown in Palgwanhoe Ceremony. The Baekhee-Gamoo shown in the Palgwanhoe Ceremony included acrobatics, traditions from comic dramas, puppet shows, mask plays, and four musical troupe flowers of youth in the Silla Dynasty, who excelled in beauty, bravery and the military arts (Sasun-Akboo). These were performed on a wagon ship with dragon, phoenix, and elephant animal masks (Yong-Bong-Sang-Mageosun). The characteristics of performing arts' costume for each performing arts are as follows. First, the general costume of the time was used for performing arts' costume. There were no special costumes for performing arts and it was just transformed or added for the efficiency of acrobatics. Second, the reality was improved by focusing on the historical research on costume suitable for characters and background of events in the performing arts to clearly deliver the purpose of the ceremony and quickly arouse audience's curiosity towards the performing arts' costume for the tradition of comic dramas and puppet shos in the Palgwanhoe Ceremony. Third, magical powers and symbolism were expressed through masks and performing arts' costumes. Palgwanhoe Ceremony aimed for magical powers that could protect weak human beings from threats and repel everything unfair while also symbolically showing the deified being through the performing arts' costume.

• 복식
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• 제60권5호
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• pp.35-50
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to know how helmet and armor was reinterpreted in historical play by considering general concept and type of old helmet and armor from the aspect of costume history and comparing the helmet and armor types of TV historical plays, Yeongaesomun and Taewangsasingi, whose historical backgrounds were based on the age of Goguryeo. The helmet and armor type shown in Yeongaesomun was reinterpreted as the one, which is close to historical investigation, by reappearing lamellar armor and jongjangpanju(helmet made of slim, long plate) shown in Goguryeo wall painting. The helmet and armor type shown in Taewangsasingi expresses fantastic helmet and armor by adding fantastic factor regardless of historical investigation. The study result reveals that there are several common characteristic factors between the helmet and armors of two historical plays. First, there was a classification in the display of character and story. The helmet and armor type shown in Yeongaesomun classified color and detail design depending on lamellar armor or character. In Taewangsasingi, the helmet and armor was manufactured depending on character's nature and the chain armors, which are lighter than existing helmet and armors, were usual. Second, they escaped from the historical investigation about traditional helmet and armor. In Yeongaesomun, myeonggwangae(a type of armor), which might be popular, was not expressed and Taewangsasingi is free from an imperative idea of historical investigation by manufacturing helmet and armor referring to that of ancient Rome age. The modern sense was reflected to increase dramatic effect. The helmet and armor of Yeongaesomun provides modern feeling by using stainless steel material and modern color arrangement and that of Taewangsasingi is designed in modern, splendid way as it aimed at game development from the planning step.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.141-159
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• 2005

Targeting a film that is the medium of having powerful influence upon the masses, the present study examined about a role and characteristics in the movie costume, and a role of costume designers, which are shown in process of being changed the film costume. There are many designers who were in charge of the film costume, but the present study examined centering on designers who participated aiming to create the image of a character from the stage of manufacturing a movie. It presented and analyzed visual materials by dividing four genres such as a historical drama movie, a horror movie, a fantasy movie, and a modern-play movie, and by selecting a typical work. A Historical drama movie needs to be investigated costume by the historical background in a movie, but inside it was shown clothes that were elaborately reproduced and newly created. A horror movie plays a role of medium that reflects the human society and the internal mentality of a human being along with the attribute of entertainment. As a genre that requires much costume, make-up and special effect aiming at dramatic effect, a role of film costume possesses great weight. As a fantasy movie is a field based on 'fiction' of a writer who creates a work, it is a field that requires creativity of a costume designer most. As a modern-play movie is what reproduces reality, it best reflects the phases of that time, and is the field that is influenced by costume or fashion trend. Costume needs to be designed in a bid to allow spectators to be inspired the wholly united and harmonious mood with leading a story of a movie, and the individual image.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제47권2호
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• pp.15-26
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to research development process of commedia dell'arte and Korean masque that have similar figure, grasp similarity and difference and find the meaning of masque and costume in both theatrical arts. Italian commedia dell'arte and Korean masque are performed by wearing standardized mask and costume depending on the role. As common points, first, the characters have unique names and possess unique features of character, costumes, masks and playing styles. Through the feature, the audiences can understand role of actor and the actors can devote themselves to their role by wearing masks and costumes. Second, although background plays an important role in commedia dell'arte, the role of costume is more important. Because masque speaks for poverties of general people indirectly, the costumes of general people were used as they are. As different point, first, most of Korean masks cover entire face, restricting speech of actor but masks of commedia dell'arte cover only upper part of face and expos mouth and chin of actor, enabling actors to express various emotions depending on the character. Second, priority is given to personality of actor and origin area and current silhouette, material and color that changed by century is reflected in the costume of commedia dell'arte but silhouette, material and color of the Age of Joseon Dynasty were adopted in Korean masque.

• 복식
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• 제22권
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• pp.85-96
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• 1994

The purpose of this research is to find out the role of shaman's costume in Yakut Yukachir Goldi. The results are as follows: 1. Yakut shaman's costumes are decorated by their worship symbols made from metals-wild ducks crucian carps diving beetles and fishes. They believe that these costumes help shamans to travel the heaven underwater or underground systems to collect wanted infor-mation transforming them into the shape of decorated animals. 2. Yukachir shaman's costumes are decorated by symbolized cross medals in the shape of birds and human designed backbone which give shamans much power and many different kinds of medals and tassels representing all sorts and conditions of shaman's power. They consider their cstumes as feather and believe they give them new power and make them to fly anywhere they want. 3. Goldi shaman's costumes have paintings of animal guradians-leopards tigers bears birds snakes lizards and so on. Birds represents freedom of the spirit and eternity. snakes represents rebirth and immorality and lizards represents the trees of underground the earth and the lifetrees of the heaven. Shamans ascend through th holy tree to th heaven and to the world of underground in a comatose condition. Shaman costume itself plays the role of the spiritual safeguard. Wearing their costume shaman get all animal's supernatural authority and power. This makes the shaman to contact with the spirit and to travel the heaven and the under-ground world.

• 복식
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• 제60권1호
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• pp.14-27
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to analyze how the aesthetic characteristics of Brecht's V-Effekt is visually expressed of the costume in the Traditional Play of Korea, China and Japan. The method and the contents of the study were to refer to the antecedent studies and the related documents to peruse the characteristics of the traditional plays of the East and West, the origin and the concept of Brecht's Verfremdung and considered the relation of Brecht's V-Effekt and the Oriental plays, and then the researcher derived the aesthetic properties of Brecht's V-Effekt. This study analyzed how those qualities of the aesthetic characteristics on the V-Effekt are manifested on the stage costumes of Korean mask, Beijing opera and Kabuki. The aesthetic qualities of Brecht's V-Effekt are classified into symbolism, grotesque disposition, character of sing and dance, comicality. The symbolism in the traditional play costumes of the three nations is shown in the colors of the masks in Korean and the tone of the colors on the costumes and the make-up in Beijing opera and Kabuki. While the properties of bizarrerie and deformation coexist in masque and Beijing opera costumes in terms of grotesque disposition, Kabuki strongly displays bizarre grotesquerie. The character of sing and dance is visually expressed through the transformation of sleeves on the three nation's traditional play costumes; Masque on the Hansam and Chengsam, Beijing opera on the Water sleeves and Kabuki on Hurisode. The comic aspection is expressed in a humorous and comical way through the distortion and transformation of forms in Masque and Beijing opera but it cannot be seen in Kabuki costume. The study as above will form the aesthetic properties of the Oriental traditional play costumes and also it will contribute to establishing the identity of Korean mask costumes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.263-277
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• 2008

In picture bible, the picture is helpful for showing story more vividly and specifically and it is helpful for finding the meaning of bible hidden behind familiarity. It plays the role of the most powerful testimony and expression, with which human provides himself. The purpose of study was to grasp the relation among historical background of the middle age, human's characteristic and symbolic color by considering the fact that the costume expressed in Maciejowski Bible, which is a picture bible of the middle age and observing type, color and decoration of costume. Among 46 folios organizing Maciejowski Bible, 129 pictures explaining the Book of Genesis, the Book of Exodus, the Book of Leviticus, the Book of Numbers, the Book of Deuteronomy, the Book of Joshua and the Book of Judges, which belong to the former 400 years of the old Testament, were analyzed for people's costumes. The pictures shown in Maciejowski Bible portrays object, costume and behavior on the background of France of the 13th century so we can find out the precious natures of middle age's costume, weapon and armor. Especially, the portrait about finger armor of chain mail attached in hauberk becomes the outstanding evidence that can encroach the discussion over whether it was used in the end of 1300s. Regarding costumes of main characters, they wore chemise and braies as underwear, wore tunic or cotte having various lengths from the length reaching knee to the length reaching 8round as basic costume and wore mantle with different-colored lining and hose with various colors. In the war picture, we can see hauberk made with chain mail and cyclas with long slit, which was worn over hauberk, barrel helmet, norman helmet and steel school cap. Regarding cap. man usually wore coif, beret, shade-shaped cap, straw hat and woman wore the decoration using veil and hairlace and used the method to wrap whole hair with net. As the colors used in the costume of the picture bible, scarlet, blue, green and brown were usually used in order. They usually wore costumes decorated splendidly with the colors haying hish brightness and chroma.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권6호통권59호
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• pp.919-933
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• 2005

This study goes into the field of CosPlay that takes place in Korea, and directly observes the people who engage in CosPlays. Based on in-depth interviews, this research identified the reasons why the CosPlay aficionados participate in this practice and their cultural preferences. Ethnography methodology was used to understand the behavior of the cultural entities of CosPlays. Moreover, this research attempted to understand their daily formalities through their own perspective and language instead of superficial language. In general, CosPlay form that they manifest is classified into two main categories: those who enjoy posing by becoming their favorite characters and those like to wear the clothes of their favorite characters and go up on the stage to perform an act of animation or game where the applicable character appears. Some of these groups are: 1) 'Bishojo CosPlay' that CosPlays mostly Bishojo cartoon characters and wants to just stand out, 2) 'Aekyo' group that CosPlays merely for the sake of the enjoyment of wearing costumes instead of having the mania-like characteristics, 3) 'CosPlayer Group' who enjoy doing organized team CosPlay in order to present a performance, 4) 'J-Rock CosPlay' group that CosPlay Japanese visual rock groups and prepare to be among a professional CosPlay team, and 5) 'People related to Cospre.com' who try to make CosPlay rooted in as one of new cultures.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.57-70
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• 2016

Gutnori(ritual A Comparative Study on Shaman's Costume of south coast Byeolsingut in Korea and the Guizhou Nahui in China play) refers to a play in the form of showing actual appearance of god and actual comedic gag with gutguri rhythm. In order to carry out a comparison between the shaman's costume in Korea and China, this study will delve into the types of shaman costumes that are worn in the gutnoris(mask plays) performed in Korean guts and those of China performed in Nahui. As research method, literature reviews and field surveys have been conducted concurrently. In terms of literature reviews, previous research have been studied centrally. For field surveys, Korean gut, Byeolsingut performance was observed for 2 days 1 night between 1st Feb. 2014-2nd Feb. 2014 in the south coast and Chinese Nahui in Guizhou was observed for 2 days 1 night between 25th Nov. 2014-26th Nov. 2014. By comparing Shaman's costume that is worn in Korean shamanism with that of Chinese shamanism as a partial means of understanding the uniqueness of Korean shaman's costume, the following conclusion was derived upon focusing on the common types of gutnori costumes and organizing them. As a universal trait for shaman's costumes in gutnori and nahui in Korea and China, traditional clothing were worn. A unique trait for shaman's costume in gutnori and nahui in Korea and China, deity expressions were shown in both cases using colors.

• 복식
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• 제63권1호
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• pp.42-55
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• 2013

As performing arts including operas are getting popular these days, the importance of stage costumes is strengthened. Stage costume is one of the artistic requisites for opera performance, it plays an important role in describing the play's situation, the director's style and the person's character. Nevertheless the study regarding the opera's costumes is not active, especially the comparative study on the same opera's costumes performed by different opera companies have hardly been made. Therefore this study compared 5 Manon Lescaut opera performances: the Metropolitan Opera(1980), the Flemish Opera(1991), the Metropolitan Opera(2008), the Seoul Metropolitan Opera(2010) and the Vienna State Opera(2010) and made clear the difference between the four. From this study, we can get the following conclusions. First, the Metropolitan Opera's costumes in 1980 act and in 2008 act ascertained Rococo dressing. Because the costume designer for both acts was the same person, the general costume styles of the two acts are similar. Second, as for the Flemish Opera and Seoul Metropolitan Opera, there was a significant drop in fancy details and trimmings in the costumes. But the costumes made strong impressions dues to its color and luminosity contrast. Third, Vienna State Opera costumes had the boldest designs and it reflected modern designs as well. This study is meaningful in that it is based on the comparison study on the same opera stage costumes designed by different directors. Afterward this study is expected to contribute toward study on opera stage costumes and stage costume's development.