• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.635-654
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• 2012

This paper studied sports-inspired fashion(SIF) that is often characterized as 'designer clothes inspired by active sportswear.' First, we reviewed the social, economical, artistic, and technological background behind its development. Second, we studied the development history of SIF by classifying it into four periods. Third, we analyzed how SIF emerged and developed with its own characteristics from a historical perspective. For a theoretical background, we did a critical review of previous literature in the field of clothing history, history of culture, and art history. We collected the data from magazines, such as Fashion Show and Gap Press and from the internet sources as well, such as firstviewkorea.com. We also did the content analysis of the data by consulting a chosen group of fashion designers. This study revealed that active sportswear started to develop from everyday clothes for functional convenience in the beginning and then SIF emerged later as a major fashion trend with the popularity of sportive look. This trend became stronger with the global spread of American popular culture. SIF eventually became high fashion with collaboration between sportswear industry and designers. This study confirmed that SIF reflects the characteristics of many sports games in silhouettes, colors, and details. It is predicted that sports will continue to be an important source of inspiration for fashion designers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.367-384
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• 2016

The aim of this paper is to examine relationship characteristics and the relevance there of in the context of the Chanel collection, between the contemporary fashion show viewed from the artistic side and intermedia on interaction. This study analyzed the relationship characteristics between intermedia and fashion shows by focusing on Chanel fashion shows from 2010 S/S to 2016 F/W as actual case. The results are as follow: First, participational accessibility indicates the experience of a designer and audience in active participation changing into passive participation. Second, audience immersion is represented by the perception of being involved by the audience in the place and acting. Third, conceptual symbolism is sending of messages through the designer's concept manifesting in the specific features of the design. Finally, expandability of media explains trans-boundaries in experimental attempts. It concludes that fashion show is a space where the audience can have visual as well as new knowledge and experience through multi-sensory channels. The Chanel collection which is considered a huge art project at the fashion show, showed a relationship between philosophy and the direction through season concepts and brands. The Chanel collection has brought a new experience through the convergence of communications and cultural media, such as music and art according to traditional brand image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.6
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• pp.133-147
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• 2015

The aim of this study is to review the creative fashion installation of Henrik Vibskov, Danish designer. Its intention is to contribute useful information for more innovative fashion presentation. As a research method, document and case study were performed and his collections from 2004 F/W to 2016 S/S were analyzed. In fashion installation, the designer puts objects in meaningful spaces in order to convey a certain message, to make an integrated artwork, and to interact with spectator. It has been used in fashion exhibitions, as well as in the set design of fashion performance and fashion show. The results were as follows. Henrik Vibskov's fashion installation has three features, which are 1)conceptual theme approach that communicates a twisted and metaphoric message, with a poetic and interesting show title, 2) surrealistic scenography that plays with fragmentation of the human body, clustering of plastic and symbolic objects, innovative color transformations, and visual trickery between figures and the background, and 3) setting for multisensory performance that makes spectators interact by making artistic objects and surroundings, which stimulates the five senses. Henrik Vibskov's fashion installation can exist as an independent artwork, and not just as a supporting piece for a fashion show. It has both artistic and fashionable values, and can be an effective fashion presentation communicating his conceptual fashion themes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.239-255
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• 1998

Art deco means decorative form on the base of cubism which has widely spread from 1910's to 1930's. Also it pursued the rational & functional design even than deecoration of art nouvear, and colorful combination of fauvism. The analytical study on design included occurrence, developing process and formative features expressed in the art deco fashion. The changes of the art deco style, it referred to the fashion illustration which was the Graphic-s of Ert in 19 century. Besides analysised activity designer in the art deco style, at the same time considered fashion design as comparable analysis. Paul Poiret, a representative french designer, contributed to the clothing culture which accepted oriental influence and it was all the fashion enough to call the originator of present fashion. He did away with the corset, relaxed the waistline, and freed the body from clothing constrictions of almost a hundred years. Since 1914, because of industry of woman clothing that art deco represent concern of one's Chanel's perennial rival in the firmanent of parisian high fashion was the Italian designers, Elsa Schiaparelli, Schiaparelli's originalily was profoundly influenced by the avant-garde art of the time ; Da da and Surealism were principal soures of new ideas. It apply the style to geometrical or abstract form impressed straight and smooth line on suitable technic. Such inflection of art deco heralded a close collaboration between the artist-jeweller and the fashion industry. Especially, jewelry designers were fond of juxtaposing transparent faceted stoned which reflected the light, with matt stones, which offered rare or unconventional contrasts through their opacity. Consequently, art deco will exert value of utility for the progressive fashion & jewel CAD through continuous research.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.93-110
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• 2011

This study investigates the analysis on the acceptance of Foreign Fashion trends in Korean Fashion Collection by collections, years, season, and designers. The purpose of this study is Korean collection's degree to adopt and receive foreign collections, by comparative analysis of design features between Seoul and foreign collections. For such purpose, from 2006 S/S to 2011 F/W, 5185 pictures were collected from designer's photos of Seoul, Paris, Milan, NY, and London collections. The content analysis and statistical analysis using SPSS will be conducted for data analysis. The results of the research are as follows. First, regarding the design features, square-form silhouette, achromatic colors, and none pattern were presented as well. Second, there were significant differences in the design characteristics of each year. Particularly, in 2008, X-form silhouette, Yellow and Green color, and flower pattern were emphasized. Third, the design features by season were significant differences. In S/S season, square-form and X-form silhouette, achromatic colors of white and gray color, none pattern were evident while in F/W season, square-form Silhouette, achromatic colors of black and gray, and none pattern were emphasized. Fourth, the design features by designer are as follows. In terms of form, Seoul collection was influenced by Paris collection. In terms of colors, it was influenced by NY and London collections.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.8
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• pp.151-167
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• 2010

This research is to analyze ethics in fashion design for more valuable and sustainable human life against the increasing alienation of the human being, the global ecological crisis resulted from contemporary consumption society. I expect that it can be helpful to plan ethical fashion design practice more effectively. For this, the documentary study and practical case study have been executed. The results are as follows. The ethics in design can be defined as the responsibility to reform the social, environmental problem of consumptive design, to sustain together without human alienation, environment disruption and to do social good for total human being ultimately. The ethical design practice means to suggest solutions to problems of human rights and environment and to act willingly. Based on this, ethical fashion design appeared as responsible design solution which has two directions. One is the fashion design for coexistence and sharing, including the design for all which considers even underprivileged minority, the design to promote public issues as well as to donate some profits. The other is the eco fashion design for sustainable environment, including eco-friendly design which is reductive and slow in whole design process, the design to inform the seriousness of environmental crisis as well as to donate some profits. The last one of the most important ethical responsibility as fashion designer is to abide by vocational ethics, that is, the prohibition of design piracy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.10
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• pp.151-171
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative relationship between clothes and hat with the works by Philip Treacy, the designer who raised hats to one of important fashion accessories. The method to analyze the relationship between clothes and hats was the formative analysis by Marian L. Davis and Marilyn R. Delong. The results suggest that clothes and hat had an organic relationship, and a hat style was changed with formative elements of clothes. Clothes and hats by Philip Treacy were analysed in the aspects of Form, Color, Material, and Decoration. As a result, hats by Philip Treacy were mainly designed by the relationship between whole types without a closed line and showed geometric and formative forms, similarly harmonized with clothes. To highlight hats, the achromatic colors such as black and gray were used. Besides clothes and hats were coordinated by the same colors, but contrary colors were used to express a strong image. Felt or straw materials maily used to express a formative and fixed form were well matched with smooth, opaque, and lusterless materials such as wool. Also when transparent materials were used for hats, lace was used for clothes. A hat made of acrylic was matched with clothes made of glossy vinyl coating materials. Decoration was mainly removed but if used, feather decoration was added to clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.7
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• pp.134-147
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• 2013

Today, the convergence of fashion design and digital technology has become a popular method and accordingly been tried variously in the fashion area. This study aimed to analyze the character of the collaboration with fashion and technology, and the meaning of technology as emotional expression methods. Selected designer's collections, literature and other related studies were reviewed in order to analyze the generative structure of the meaning and the binary-opposition in the convergence of body, fashion design and technology. Literatures and selected designer's collections were reviewed and quantitatively studies were performed to classify the convergence of human bodies, fashion design and technology through Greimas Semiotics rectangle based on binary-opposition of meaning and isotophy analysis. The research presents three types of fashion technology methods: mechanical movement, light/digital media, and virtual image. The convergence of fashion and technology was classified as the direct convergence and the indirect convergence. The direct convergence was characterized by variability and has automatic, independent movement, but the indirect convergence was shown closed and to have contradistinctive images.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.99-116
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• 2003

Knit is classified into two such as basic texture and applied one according to knitting principle, and the basic texture of weft knitting consists of single knit. rib knit, purl knit and interlock knit. The basic texture of warp knitting consists of double knit texture, double code knit texture and double vandyke knit texture. Fourteen costumes were produced with eighteen (18) different types and twenty four (24) raw materials, and we were trying to show a wide range of costumes produced with knitting by making two different brands at random and making different designs depending on four seasons. Knitting technique is very important element in that it allows special surface effectiveness and decides the characteristic of knitting materials. Knit designer plays very important roles such as selection of raw thread, deciding knitting technique and type of knitting machine in designing the knit. Therefore, the knit designer requires the ability to utilize the function of knitting machine to the maximum, the effort to acquire the variety of knitting technique, develop the new knitting technique and for the improvement of knitting design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.111-127
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to understand the importance of exterior influential factors and kunstwollen(artistic will) of fashion designer. In order to investigate the differences which based on periodic backgrounds, social influences, cultural actualities and kunstwollen, Vivienne Westwood, Issey Miyake and Hussein Chalayan who have different social and cultural contexts are selected. Also through this research, people would understand the clothes has the values as the art works which have philosophy of creator and recognize the importance of fashion as an intermediation for comprehension of history, society and culture. Vivienne Westwood presents her honor to British history and culture in the way of her unique interpretation. Also she expresses the authority and the pride of woman who lives in the present age. Issey Miyake accomplishes the harmony of human body and soul. He attains the most perfect beauty through incomplete beauty of cloth. Hussein Chalayan produces his fashion works as a form of concept which is keep asking question about existence of human being. Fashion is the work of art which Is based on the relationship between clothes, human body and spirit. The fashion designer makes human life has value through his or her creations and tries to communicate with the world.