• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.13 no.1
• /
• pp.23-34
• /
• 2013

The purpose of this study is to better understand the development and characteristics of knitwear fashion design by examining the transformation process of the modern knits. The subjects of the study are Missoni, Sonia Rykiel, and Azzedine Alaia, designers who are world-renowned knit designers, and the expressive techniques in their designs will be evaluated. The study also intends to analyze the aesthetic value of each designer's style through their product's silhouette, colors, and knitting techniques. On the basis of the analysis, we hope to research the factors in the designing process that will allow knits, which were made for practical purposes, to be valued as a luxury fashion item, and with the results, show the potential for knits in expanding its domain in fashion to become a more luxurious, creative fashion item. The characteristic comparison of the designers is as follows: First, in the case of colors, Missoni shows its distinct identity through a balance of splashy colors as well as nature-inspired color composition and balance. And, only with color use, is also able to express perspective, form composition, and rhythm. Sonia Rykiel designs are composed of black backgrounds with strong primary colors that are contrasted with one-point or stripes to express a light, urban image. Alaia emphasizes femininity by the use of black and white colors, which show modernity, in combination with neutral skin-toned colors, such as beige and gray. So, in other words, Missoni and Sonia Rykiel mixed colors for visual interconnectivity, while Alaia expressed femininity through the use of an achromatic color. Second, in the case of knitting techniques, Missoni uses the jacquard technique to make complex patterns that show balance of colors and patterns such as zigzag, stripe, geometries, and titan check, which are geometric, abstract, and symmetric. Sonia Rykiel who uses stripes as her trademark, most often utilizes the intarsia technique, which is expressed through one-point. Alaia combines diverse techniques, such as the Skashi weaving, by using computerized knitting. Third, as for silhouettes, Missoni eliminated exaggerated details in order to emphasize the flashy colors and delicate patterns and weavings of its designs, and this resulted in simplistic and relaxed silhouettes. Sonia Rykiel took advantage of the elasticity that the knit offers to get a tight silhouette, and in turn, emphasized the female sensuality. Alaia used curvilinear cuts that emphasized the womanly curves and gained an image considered soft and feminine.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.9 no.3
• /
• pp.357-374
• /
• 2001

This study analyzed the trends of fashion market in 15 branch stores of 3 major department stores in Seoul. The purposes of this study were to classify fashion zone and brands in each floor of the department stores, and to analyze the rate which a fashion brand was located department store. The results were as follows : 1. There were sundry goods on main floor, women\`s clothings on 2-4th floor, sports & golf wears and infants & children\`s clothings from 6th floor to the top in most department stores. 2. Lotte Chamshil branch had the largest number of fashion brands in it, the nest was Lotte Main store and followed by Hyundai Chunhoe branch, Shinsegae Gangnam branch, Hunndai Shinchun branch, Lotte Gangnam branch, Hyundai Main store, Hyundai Muyeuk-Center branch, and Lotte Youngdeungpo branch, etc. 3. The fashion categories of the Lotte Department stores were segmented as the Casuals (character, young, young basic, career, town, jean, city), Young worlds, Imported beautique, Madams, Designers(beautique), Intelligences, Unisex, Ladies formal wears, the Seasonables, and the Formals, Missy Careers. This was the most various fashion market segments among 3 major department stores. This store had 667 Women\`s fashion and Casual brands. The Chamshil branch and Main store were intensified the Casual & sundry goods on 5th floor. 4. The fashion categories of the Hundai Department stores were segmented as Women\`s wears, Women\`s casuals, Young-Adult, Young live, Women\`s former wears, Royal beautique and Young characters. It was less segmented than other Department stores. Total number of Women\`s fashion and casual brands were 471 brands. The market segmentation of fashion zone was well done at Chunho branch and Shinchun branch. It was intensified that Fashion sundry goods at Muyeuk-Center branch and The Women and Young fashion zone at Chunho branch. 5. The fashion categories of the Shinsaegae Department stores were segmented as Casuals (young, young character, X-, missy, career, character), Imported beautique, Designer\`s characters, Young basics, Elegance, Missy, Young weave, Original brands. This store had 304 Women\`s fashion and Casual brands. Shinsaegae has also developed it\`s own brand(PB items) and classified as the Original zone which differentiated it from other Departments. 6. The Deco was the most popular brand in the department stores, the next were Micha/Botticelli, and followed by Darks/System/lzzat Baba, Givy/Obzee/Lee won jae/Kim yeon Joo, and so on. The target of 6 out of 10 brands which were included in here were career women of age 20 to 30 ages. The price rate were from 200,000 won to 300,000 won.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.25
• /
• pp.249-268
• /
• 1995

Parody has recently prevailed as one of the important techniques of creation in art. The purposes of this study are to reaffirm the pos-ition of fashion as an art by clarifying parody depicted in fashion and to make an opportunity to reconsider the meaning of creation in fashion design through the significance of par-ody. For these purposes, documentary studies about parody in literature and art which had been discussed more often were preceded as a framework of this research. framework of this research. Basedd upon that, parody phenomena in fashion as well as art were analyzed. The synthetic results are as follows ; 1. Parody is a kind or critical technique and can be conceived as a process of creation. The established primary style (material) which is well-known and familiar is imitated and then is recreated in new manner through the three types of parodization, that is, the change of its external form, the change of its internal mean-ing and the shift from its place (i.e. displace-ment). 2. Parody in fashion is also analyzed based upon the three types of parodization which designer's will and expression is necessarily required. First, the parody through the change of external form is to have its effect of novelty, unexpectedness, playfulness, wit, mackery, satire, irony, paradox by changing the form of the original through imitation with similarity, transformation, exaggeration, em-phasis. Second, the parody through the change of internal meaning is to bring about paradox, irony, contempt, satire, unex-pectedness by applying the original to inappro-priate subject through its substitution, inver-sion. Third, the parody through displacement is to pursue a jarring incongruity that results from shifting the original to other context. Its effect consists of paradox, unexpectedness, playfulness, ridicule, mockery, satire, irony. In general, the parody technique in fashion can be used to have an intention of expressing seriousness, playfulness, satire, grotesque. The representative designers using the parody technique are Lagerfeld, Ricci, YSL, Yama-moto, Castelbajac, Gaultier, Mugler, West-sood, Steiner and so on. 3. Parody is the technique which imitates and then recreates the preceding style ; is at the same time the method which challenges the existing concept of originality-singleness and uniqueness. It reflects the more flexible concept of modern creation in art as well as fashion. The imitation as the creation, the characteristic of parody is recognized as an creative expressiveness, publicity, intention. Thus it differenciates from copy which is uncritical mimicry.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
• /
• 2001.08a
• /
• pp.11-13
• /
• 2001

For those unfamiliar with the shoe world, Pinet (1817-1897) was a contemporary of Worth, the great Parisian couturier. So I look at the glamour shoes and the world of haute couture, and indeed the development of the named designer. That is a concept we are all familiar with now. So it is not easy to comprehend the lack of names for the exquisite work before 1850. Straightway I have to say that the number of noted shoe designers is far fewer than famous dress designers, but I will introduce you to some of them, against the background of contemporary shoe fashions. Franc;ois Pinet was born in the provinces (probably Touraine) in 1817, two years after the end of the Napoleonic Wars. His father, an ex-soldier, settled to shoemaking, a comparatively clean and quiet trade. It had a tradition of literacy, interest in politics, and was known as the gentle craft, which attracted intelligent people. We should presume father would be helped by the family. It was usual for a child to begin by the age of 5-6, tying knots, sweeping up, running errands and gradually learning the job. His mother died 1827, and father 1830 when he was 13, and at the time when exports of French shoes were flooding world markets. He went to live with a master shoemaker, was not well treated, and three years later set out on the tour-de- France. He worked with masters in Tours and Nantes, where he was received as Compagnon Cordonnier Bottier du Devoir as Tourangeau-Ia rose dAmour (a name to prove most appropriate). He went on to Bordeaux, where at 19 he became president of the local branch. In 1841 he went to Paris, and in 1848, revolution year, as delegate for his corporation, he managed to persuade them not to go on strike. By now the shoemakers either ran or worked for huge warehouses, and boots had replaced shoes as the main fashion. In 1855 Pinet at the age of 38 set up his own factory, as the first machines (for sewing just the uppers) were appearing. In 1863 he moved to new ateliers and shop at Rue ParadisPoissoniere 44, employing 120 people on the premises and 700 outworkers. The English Womans Domestic Magazine in 1867 records changes in the boots: the soles are now wider, so that it is no longer necessary to walk on the uppers. There is interest in eastern Europe, the Polonaise boots with rosette of cord and tassels and Bottines Hongroises withtwo rows of buttons, much ornamented. It comments on short dresses, and recommends that the chaussure should correspond to the rest of the toilet. This could already be seen in Pinets boots: tassels and superb flower embroidery on the higher bootleg, which he showed in the Paris Exposition that year. I think his more slender and elegant Pinet heel was also patented then or 1868. I found little evidence for colour-matching: an English fashion plate of 1860 shows emerald green boots with a violetcoloured dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.32
• /
• pp.163-182
• /
• 1997

The purpose of this study was intended to analyze artistic formativeness represented in the modern fashion design materials. Nowadays the modern fashion design materials is characterized by variety. The fashion materials the most important of fashion is called a softwear in textile industry and emerged as a new field. Fashion design also escaped from the tra-ditional restraint and extended to pursue lib-eral clothes and the designer's creative inten-tion has resulted in conceptual and conven-tional alteration as a new mode of plastic ex-preseeion. As a results of analysis of the formative fea-ture of Art style represented in the modern fashion design materials. First Surrealism had been searching for a new way of confronting a social and rtistic environment that was stifling and repugnant to them. Accordingly the wide applicaytion of the various object due to the thought of Sur-realism through the modern fashion materials brought the diversification and individua-lization of the modern fashion design. Second Pop Art that is made modern mech-anic culture and commercialism brought the great transformation in the history of Art out of the existing style and the sense of ex-pression. And the plastic characteristics of Pop Art that has a gravity as modern fashion materials on a them of the elements of popular consumer's society. That is the common and cheap objects were introduced into fashion materials itself or pat-tern. Third Minimalism is a trend in art att-empting to seek essence of the object by presenting simple and disciplined expressions by minimal formative means. The features of external form are simplicity clarity unrelated composition and symmetrical structure. Mini-malism was a quest for basic elements repre-senting the fundamental esthetic values of art. The minimal expression in modern fashion materials mean fabrics with simple surface and is contained using simple geometric pattern or utilizing textiles without any patterns. Fourth Eroticism is a kind of psychological revolution in the development of human civilization and is deeply rooted in the cultural tradition of myth religion customs and art. So Eroticism must be distinguished from a mere animal reproduction. These erotic char-acteristics were holded the meanings of sexu-ality through the modern fashion materials. Especially it was expressed the sexual part of body was nakedly showed through trans-parent materials or semitransparent like metalic and opaque materials. Recently the various kinds of new materials such as paper vinyle plastic metal as well as human body were applied to new fashion de-sign. First of all the new materials will give modern fashion designers stimuli and inspi-ration. It can also express values of moderners to despise materialism and uniformed modern society and to recover humanity and self-actualization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.2
• /
• pp.78-92
• /
• 2008

The mutual relationship between fashion and architecture and the similarities in their form and structure have been continuously debated over the decades, considering that both spheres are objects used in human life. Both spheres bring about the creation of three-dimensional space structures that are completed by the human body and material, based on a design targeted for people. The similarities between fashion and architecture in terms of form and structure have been debated by western architecture scholars focusing on the support that holds the garment's shape, the tailoring of a men's suit and also the material. The debate originates from the discussion of F. Th. Vischer, Kritische Gnge, and Gottfried Semper during the nineteenth century on the similarities between crinoline and the form of architecture and also the similarities between sewing and architecture. However, architects always regarded fashion as the inferior creative process that follows architecture in viewing the relationship between fashion and architecture. During the mid to end of the twentieth century, contrary to previous decades, the sense of fashion in architecture stood out, as an issue and a different approach was taken in discussing architecture that incorporates fashion. Accordingly, in the mid 1990's, architecture scholars such as Deborah Fausch and Mark Wigley began to conduct close observation of the mutual relationship between fashion and architecture from a more equal point of view. Notwithstanding, their point of view was still biased towards architectural standards. Commencing the Millennium, fashion has become the primary work of creation which leads style in all spheres, and under these circumstances this point of view has transferred from architecture to fashion when thinking about relationships between these spheres. The discussion on fashion and architecture form fashion's point of view is currently concentrated on the post 1990's phenomenon and illustrates the environment that is related to architecture. In general, the discussion is limited to determining a work of an individual designer as 'being architectural' when explaining the sculptural form of fashion. Therefore, this research aims to renew the discussion on twentieth century fashion design, which was neglected in any studies on observing architecture and fashion. The aim of this research is to classify the architectural paradigm of twentieth century fashion design and to observe the architectural forms of the respective eras. It is necessary to have a close observation of the architectural paradigm in twentieth century fashion design where support tools such as the crinoline was avoided and the form and functionality of the garment itself was emphasized. I will conduct this research by considering the architectural form shown in fashion as a practical three-dimensional creation that exists in space.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.43 no.6 s.208
• /
• pp.97-112
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study was to examine how female college students' physical characteristics affect their and hairstyle behavior. The study methodology was a survey, with questions gathered from the previous research surveys and collated by the author. The study subjects 350 female college students in Gwangju, Korea. This survey was performed from November 8thto 13th 2004, and 348 questionnaires were finally used for the study analysis.. The research results are summarized as follows: 1. As a result of the analysis on the research variants, costume behavior was derived from four factors clothing sympathy, clothing exhibition, clothing convenience, clothing aesthetics. Hairstyle behavior was derived from five factors: hair sympathy, hair individuality, hair aesthetics, dependency on hair designer, and hair convenience. 2. The difference between clothing and hairstyle behavior according to physical characteristics showed that clothing and hairstyle behavior make a significant difference according to the height, weight, study major, spending money, and family income. 3. There was a positive correlation among clothing and hairstyle behavior clothing Female college students showed the same differences in clothing behavior as in hairstyle behavior according to their own physical characteristics. When more satisfied with their body shape, they tended to pursue a clothing aesthetic. When more dissatisfied with their body shape, they tended to pursue a comfortable and acceptable look, which does not attract others' attention, rather than pee the changes of hairstyle and fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.30
• /
• pp.261-274
• /
• 1996

In the present age dominate by both cer-taingty of 1% and uncertainty of 99% 'Fuzzy thinking' of Bart Kosko that is the way to solve the problems by the scientific way through a worldview of Buddhism or Taoism greatly prevails around the world over 'Lateral greatly prevails around the world over 'Lateral thinking' and the authenticity or the right and-wrong of the uncertainty which is the thinking way to find the answer of the problems of illogical way of Edward de Beno against the western vertical thinking were Concurrently fashion designers over the world also adopt the oriental elements. But there exist differences of thoughts between the orient and the occident. And they have dif-ferent thinking way of aestheticism and references of the value on the beauty. Not only beauty but the view through the mind as intuitional thought in which not only the rec-ognition of sense but also the rationalism and the naturalness play key role. The aesthetic sense in the orient contains both the truth and virtue. 2) The beauty of the mean It's from the thought of neutralization of Confucius. The mean or moderation state which in harmony with ethical virtue and aes-thetic beauty is the ideal and is the ultimate. Therefore the thought of Confucian is the creativity in which the balance and the har-mony is most important. Fashion design is also one of the representation of the mean because the spirit of the designer is harmonized for-mlessly with the object of the model of the fashion design. 2) The beauty of skillfulness It indicates the Taoism of Lao-tzu and Chuangtzu. It takes a super-artistic declar-ation that human can feel and recognize the color of colorlessness the sound of sound-lessness and the taste of tastelessness. The thought of arts affected by Taoism is 'ad-vanced age' called the beauty of skillfulness. The view of arts of lao-tzu takes the beauty of cosmos and the nature as a standard. Es-pecially the beauty of inactivity is recognized by the linkage between the beauty and the ugliness. And these things appear in fashion design as a design element such as humor or exaggeration. 3) The beauty of non-dualism It is thought of Buddhism that all evil passions of worry occur form the opposition in dualism. Finally this thought leads to that everything is consistent and truth is only one from the point of view that virtue and vice has on linkage that is 'no virtues no vices' and 'one with two, two, with one, one is not two' A big tendency like this became the root forma-tion of the thought of the oriental arts. 3. Characteristics of the oriental aesthetic sense on the present fashion design 1) The formation of the fashion design on the oriental elements In the picture-incantation which was a representation of an era when the thought of 'cosmic dual forces' dominated the basic polygons of 'a circle square triangle' means both 'one two three' and 'the negative positive mean' of cosmic elements. From this point of view the was of planner cutting in the Orient is dif-ferent from that of the Occidental which is in three-dimensional. The planner polygon type of the cut-pieces comes to have the meaning of the three-dimension when they consist of a suit that has the combination of each cut-piece. This shows the consistency with the principle of cosmos creation of Taoism that one is two two is three and three is every-thing. 2) The coloring and the symbolic represen-tation of the fashion design on the orien-tal elements The sense on the colors in the Orient from the thought of 'the cosmic dual forces and the five elements' is not the experi-enced from the knowledge but contains the consideration of philosophy Five-primary-color representing compass directions Blue(East) Red(South) Yellow(Center) White (West) and Black (North) is called ' the posi-tive' for this five-primary-color secondary-color which comes from the compound of the primary colors is called 'the negative' The thought of 'the cosmic dual forces and the five elements' is also an theory containing the natural order of the cos-mos and this shows the perceptional differ-ence that they are not conceptual but to be recognized and fell directly. A thought of Buddhism which is 'Colors are colorlessness and Clolorlessness are color's proves that. 3) The pattern and symbolic representation of the fashion design on the oriental elements The pattern as a visual style is a figure of symbolic representation which adopt the mental and physical world of human and are the compo-sition of artistic revelation of the human nature and the religous thought of incantation. Es-pecially the symbolic representation of the oriental thought of Confusion. Buddhism and Taoism There are patterns such as plants aminals the oriental four gods and geometry. From the above it's the time toward the 21'th century when the world is constructing one global area and one historical zone. And the exotic mood of the Orient represented in the fashion which doesn't make the common feeling in general does not cease to develop only to express the visual modeling but also adopts the thought religion and the art which are the root of the Orientail and contains inherent willing of modeling.