• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.163-178
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• 2014

In America, where obesity rate ranks no.1 in the world, the plus size market is rapidly expanding with various American brands adding plus size lines in a way to diversify their products. As obesity is expanding throughout the younger generation, the necessity to develop products according to different characteristics of body shape that can fulfill the needs of young plus size consumers is being emphasized. In this study of young plus size, our focus is on providing wider spectrum of design choices for consumers by analyzing different body shapes, categorizing them, and then identifying the differences of design among them. More specifically, the object of this study is to analyze the elements that differentiate the designs from each other by virtually trying out the same item on avatars of various body shapes. Thus, we can identify the elements that needs to be differentiated according to different body shapes after implementing virtual fitting program on plus size shapes that are rather difficult considering the reality of domestic fashion companies. In this way, we are able to provide fundamental data for American plus size fashion market and design development for Korean fashion companies that are under way of entering or planning to enter the American market. Furthermore, this will demonstrate the actual details of the designs that will eventually help the development of specialized product for the globalization of Korean fashion industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.2
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• pp.157-175
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• 2015

The study was aimed to develop a torso-type dress form representing body features of the female fashion models in Korea. To fulfill this purpose, 5 female fashion models aged between 20 and 26 having the average body measurements of professional fashion models in Korea were selected and their 3-D whole body scanned data were analysed. The 3-D whole body scanning method enabled to generate a virtual female fashion model within the CAD system by measuring the subjects' body shapes and sizes. In addition, the virtual model's body data led the development of a standard female fashion model dress form for the efficient fashion show preparation. In order to manufacture the real dress form for female fashion models, 3-D printing technology was adopted. The consequent results are as follows: (1) the body measurements (unit: cm) of the developed dress form were: biacromion length, 36.0, bust point to bust point, 16.6, front/back interscye lengths, 32.0/33.0, neck point to breast point, 26.0, neck point to breast point to waist line, 41.5, waist front/back lengths, 34.5/38.5, waist to hip length, 24.0, bust circumference, 85.0, underbust circumference, 75.0, waist circumference, 65.0, hip circumference, 92.0. (2) the body measurements differences between the developed and existing dress forms were highlighted with the body measurements of neck point to breast point and waist to hip length. (3) the body shape features of the developed dress form showed that bust, shoulder blade, shoulder slope, abdomen and back waist line to hip line parts were more realistically manufactured.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.62-73
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• 2015

The aim of this research is to propose the final shirt design modified for new senior women that fulfills their emotional and physical needs. The modifications were based on the results of in-depth interviews and literature search, and the study was conducted in order to understand the desires and preferences of senior women, as consumption of outdoor-wear by the group continues to increase. To develop the design of outdoor-wear that satisfies the physical and emotional qualities and preference of the new senior women, six different designs with lines, combined materials, as well as materials that were layered, pleated and draped were proposed using virtual-dressing simulation software. Then, the modified designs were derived from the six original designs by reflecting the opinions collected in the in-depth interviews with eleven women in their 50s. The responses in the interviewed showed a preference for lines, pleats and layers, as these features made the clothes look trendy, gave it a slender-look, and improved the body shape of the women. As the color is the critical factor for outdoor-wear, there was an overwhelming preference for primary colors by the women, which was in contrast to their color preference in general clothes. A sleeve design modification was proposed to convert the half-sleeves to 3/4-long sleeves in order to account for changes in body temperature at menopause, and to satisfy the aesthetic needs for covering wrinkles. Research of new senior outdoor-wear designs will help segment and differentiate strategies for the increasingly fierce competing outdoor market, as well as l provide directions in the design creation process using the simulation of 3D virtual model.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.2
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• pp.193-210
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• 2024

The portrait featuring Jo Ban(1341-1401), a scholar-official from the late Goryeo and early Joseon period, and his wife is the oldest surviving couple portrait in Korea. It is of great value in uncovering the clothing culture of the period given the limited number of historical artifacts and records. This study examines the historical clothing and textile patterns of Jo Ban's wife and reproduces them using 3D fashion design software program CLO. She wears jokduri, chima, and baeja over layers of jeogori, a mixture of traditional Korean and Chinese styles. Her clothing illustrates eight patterns-one flower, five geometric, and two cloud. Records and relics of similar periods show that flower and geometric patterns in her clothing follow the prevailing styles of Goryeo, while the cloud patterns are representative of early Joseon. These details are used to reproduce six different styles of Jo Ban's wife with CLO tools. Various visualizations of textile patterns are applied to materials, generating a more realistic look than her existing 3D character created with the portrait. Results of this study are expected to help promote the use of Goryeo clothing and patterns in numerous designs and enhance intuitive understanding of Goryeo clothing based on 3D visualization.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.583-589
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• 2022

Due to COVID-19, which has thrown the whole world into chaos, it has become an era where many technologies and contents are made non-face-to-face. At the same time, the popularity of the metaverse service is also increasing day by day, and the virtual costume (avatar) industry, one of the sub-industries, is also growing. In this study, we designed and developed a system for creating virtual costumes to be uploaded to ZEPETO, a mobile metaverse service. Unlike the existing service that requires a program that operates in a PC environment, it can be produced only by shooting and simple operation through a mobile device. With the advantage of being able to process all tasks of this system in a mobile environment, small businesses and individual operators who are not familiar with external programs will be able to more easily access the 3D virtual clothing industry.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.15 no.7
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• pp.351-358
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• 2017

This study seeks to propose the virtual costume's pipeline production in digital fashion show which is based on the unique characteristic combining computer graphic technology and traditional fashion design. This study analyzed the fabric materials based on Korean traditional costume to create a virtual Hanbok for the digital fashion show, and conducted the group of professional's satisfaction statistics through the experiment to verify the realistic usability. The contents of primary process of producing virtual Korean costume is analyzed by summarizing the thickness, weight, and color as the three essential fabric properties required for virtual Hanbok. In addition, virtual costumes are compared with real Hanbok based on the usability survey to evaluate the positive research result by forty graphic experts. The purpose of this study is to present the guideline of essential material analysis of the fabrication to digital fashion show in the virtual clothing production.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.744-757
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• 2021

This study aims to develop a bodice and a jacket in 3D of the late 19th to early 20th based on the pattern drafting book of Gordon S. S., which contains body measurement method and pattern drafting system. The findings of this research are as follows. First, female tops of the late 19th to early 20th century are categorized as outer, jacket, vest, and bodice. Of these, this study highlights the jacket, which can be divided into 4 types: 4 kinds of basic jacket, 2 kinds of riding jacket, bolero jacket, and newmarket jacket. Second, by referring to Gordon's pattern drafting system and book, a bodice was developed in 3D format based on the adherence to the following steps: analysis of the pattern drafting system, pattern drafting, 3D virtual simulation, 3D virtual fitting analysis, and the pattern correction. A bodice pattern corrected by 3D virtual clothing simulation results was proposed. Last, a basic sleeve and collar pattern for a basic jacket was drafted, which was followed by the correction and transformation of the bodice pattern. The jacket developed shows great fit except for the issues at the armhole line and shoulder, which were caused by the unique shape of the sleeves(big sleeve head) of the time. The study attempted to develop the past costumes in 3D, providing the basis for interdisciplinary research in the field of fashion history field and suggesting a new approach for the virtual restoration of costumes. Future studies should target to 3D virtual simulation in accordance to the 3D avatar pose in the developed virtual costume.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.209-224
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• 2014

This study aims to compare the ease of shirt patterns in the men's wear market that have been constantly developing, and to analyze the fitness and appearance through the 3D virtual try-on system. The study selected three industrial patterns and two educational materials of classic-fit and slim-fit shirts for a total of ten items. The experiments involved virtual wearing, a stress contact point perspective map, and appearance evaluations. First, the ease differed significantly in the chest, waist, and sleeve cap height according to the patterns. Second, based on the stress, contact point, and transparency, there was ease in the order of Nam, D-brand, J-brand, Park, and S-brand in the classic-fit shirts while the order of D-brand, Nam, J-brand, Park, and S-brand resulted in the slim-fit shirts. Third, in the appearance evaluation, higher points resulted in the order of J-brand, Park, S-brand, D-brand, and Nam in both classic-fit and slim-fit. The results showed that proper ease differs greatly by shirt-fit and target age. Also, the shirts with more ease tended to be evaluated less favorably in the appearance evaluation. Based on the results, the study suggests that the proper ease in chest circumference is 18cm for the classic-fit shirts and 6 cm for the slim-fit shirts.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.476-487
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to suggest torso patterns that fit the three main body shapes of elderly obese women. To reduce time, costs, and also the trial and error needed to make patterns, the CLO program for 3D test wear was employed. Three virtual models for aged obese women were use, with the YUKA system used to produce torso patterns. 3D simulation of test wear and corrections was done to design optimal torso patterns. The results were as follows: First, for the three models of obese women's body shapes as realized by CLO 3D, Type 1 is lower-body obesity shapes, Type 2 is abdominal obesity shapes, and Type 3 is whole-body obesity shapes. Second, to design the study patterns, actual measurement values, back waist length and waist to hip length, were used. The armhole depth (B/4-1.5), front interscye (B/6+2.3), front neck width (B/12-0.5), front neck depth (B/12+0.5), front waist measurement (W/4+ 1.5+D), front hip measurement (H/4+2+0.5), and back hip measurement (H/4+3-0.5) were calculated using formulas. Third, according to the results of test-wearing the study patterns, reduced front neck width and depth improved the neck fit and reduced armhole depth bettered loose or plunging armhole girth and also reduced the sagging of bust c.. Also, tight sidesfrom aprotruded waist and abdomen improved with the increase of surpluses in the back waist and also back and front hip c. The exterior was enhanced by displacement of back and front darts, which distributed surpluses better.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.107-122
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• 2023

This study analyzed the style, dimensions, fabric patterns, colors, and fabrics of a traditional Chinese women's dress from the Zhou Dynasty, and reconstructed it in the form of a virtual garment using 3D CLO. Based on ancient flat image data and three-dimensional portrait data, who wore them, how they were worn, and how they were coordinated was analyzed. In order to analyze the size and pattern of the straight Ju Chines dress, data from the excavation report and the tomb owner's anthropometric measurements were combined to infer the wearing condition and organize the sculptural features. Dimensional analysis was carried out using a well-preserved small-scale woven cotton cloth as a restoration model, and the horizontal and vertical dimensions were reasonably estimated using the shape proportioning method. The analysis of the colors and patterns of the fabrics was based on the colors and patterns of the fabrics excavated from Masan Tomb No. 1 during the Eastern Zhou, Qin, and Han periods. Finally, a virtual model was created using data from the excavation report and the age and height information of the owner of the excavated robe, and the pose and size of the virtual model were determined using 3D CLO. Based on the previous research data, the garment was virtually sewn and simulated. The shape, pressure, and strain of the garment in different postures was also compared. Through the research direction of pattern and 3D restoration, this research maximizes the restoration of Chinese traditional women's dress and presents it in a more intuitive, comprehensive, and vivid way.