• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.65-80
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• 1999

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China. The Results of the study are as follows. 1. In the Past, Derung's dress was very simple due to the influence of various factors, such as geography and history. Men wore shorts and covered diagonally a piece of cloth from left shoulders to right armpits and tied up the two ends on chests. Women covered crisscross two pieces of cloth from both shoulders to knee. 2. Achang people's dress and adornment has its own unique characteristic. Generally, men wear Jackets with buttons down the front and black trousers. Unmarried men like to wear white turbans, while most of married men usually wear dark blue ones. Women usually wear tight-sleeve blouses with buttons down the front and skirts. Unmarried women wear the hair in braids coil them on the top of their heads. They wear short blouses and trousers. Married women wear their hair Into buns and like to entwine black or blue cloth into high trubans. They wear short blouses and knee-length straight skirts. Achang knife enjoys high reputation and has a long history and an exquisite workmanship. All the men like to wear it. 3. The dress and adornment of the Lahu nationality has both the characteristic of farming culture and the style of nomadic culture of early times. Men usually wear short shirts with round necks and buttons down the front, loose-legged trousers, turbans or dark blue cloth caps Women's dress and adornment can be categorized into two styles. One is black cloth gown with buttons diagonally on the right front and waist-length slits on both sides. The edges of fronts and cuffs are edged with Silver ornaments and lace. They also wear trousers. The other is short blouse with round neck and short opening on th right front, straight skirt and colourful leggings with embroidered patterns. 4. The Hani people, men and women, old and young, like black colour and are fond of wearing black clothes. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front and trousers, entwining their heads with black or white cloth. The elderly people wear calottes. Women wear cloth blouses, skirts and trousers or shorts. Slight differences exist in the clothing and adornments according to region, branch and age 5. Blang people's dyeing technique with an exquisite method has a long history. Men wear dark blue long sleeve shirts with round necks and buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. Elderly men wear big turbans wdress and adornment varies greatly in different regions. 6. The Lisu people culture of dress and adornment has some unique characteristics. The styles and colours of their dress and adornment differ slightly from place to place. In the Nujiang area, Women wear black velvet Jackets over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and long pleated ramie skirts. Men usually wear wraparound ramie gowns, with center vent, made of fabrics alternated with white and black cross stripes. They also wear cloth waistbands and trohile youngsters keep their hair short. Women's users. In the Lushui area, the dress and adornment is similar to that in the Nujing region, but women wear aprons and trousers instead of skirts. 7. The Nu people dress and adornment is simple but elegant Women are proficient in ramie-weaving. Men usually wear gowns With overlapping necks, knee-length trousers and leggings. They like to wear their hair long and entwine dark blue or white turbans. Women wear black and red vests over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and ankle-length skirts. They also wear their hair long, make it into braids, and entwine dark blue or colourful cloth turbans. 8. Pumi men usually wear ramie shirts With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front, loose trousers and white sheepskin vests. Some also wear overcoats made of "pulu". Women's dress and adornment varies in different areas. In the Lanping and Weixi regions, women wear white short blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front and dark brown embroidered vests. They also wear trousers and blue or black cloth turbans. In the Ninglang and Yongsheng regions, women wear hemmed blouses With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and drape sheepskin capes. They also wear white pleated skirts and use broad colourful cloth as their waistbands.

• Cartoon and Animation Studies
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• s.51
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• pp.129-158
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• 2018

China has had many excellent Chinese-style animation since the 1950s. These animations are of distinctive Chinese national characteristics. They have won many awards both at home and abroad, such as "Feelings of Mountains and Waters", "Uproar In Heaven", "Why is the Crow Black-Coated" and so on. But nowadays, Chinese animations that mimics Japanese and American animation are very often, and there are few animation works with rich traditional Chinese culture. There are some works in the name of Chinese style, but they have not been fully accepted by the audiences. If one wants to create animated works of Chinese style, the author must have an in-depth understanding of Chinese traditional and folk art. Animation can not be designed only on the surface. This paper mainly studies the traditional five color concept in China and its application in animation. The purpose is to provide some references to differentiate Chinese animation from other countries in terms of style and color. The main content of this paper is to understand the concept and history of Chinese traditional five color views, and to know that this color system has reflected the ancestors' concept of nature and society. On the basis of five monochromatic colors, red, yellow, green, white and black, it is a kind of complex color concept that has been developed and perfected continuously after a long period of accumulation and precipitation in the practice of life. It is the theoretical basis of Chinese traditional color system and a complete set of historical, cultural, philosophical and religious theories. Finally, this paper analyzes the colors and their symbolic meanings of the main roles in "Uproar In Heaven", a color long animation produced by Shanghai Animation Film Studio, including Sun Wukong, the Jade Emperor and Na Zha. Color is the first visual language. The use of color symbols to express the inner feelings, status, good and evil of the characters will affect the audience's emotions, behaviors and opinions imperceptibly. The traditional Chinese five color concept has gone through such a long history, and its symbolic meaning has a more profound impact on Chinese people. Applying the color concept and symbolic meaning of Chinese traditional five color concept will further highlight the personalities and emotions of the roles in Chinese style animations. This paper takes the five-color view as the theoretical basis, and through the analysis of cartoons with traditional Chinese color, the author finds ways to flexibly use traditional Chinese culture.

• Cartoon and Animation Studies
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• s.47
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• pp.241-271
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• 2017

Film color is equivalent to other elements of film, including narrative, and has a textual meaning according to the identity of expression. In general, red has a function of focusing attention, and the meaning derived from it is diffused. In the interaction of text and context, the function of concentration and the meaning of diffusion can be presented. The concept of concentration and diffusion is shaped by the relationship between independent colors, colors and other cinematic elements, and interactions between colors. In order to confirm this, this study analyzes a series of popular Korean films, how film colors interact, and in particular, the concentration function of red and the meaning of proliferation. The results of this study are as follows. First, in Korean popular films, at its most basic, red symbolizes a nation, a people, and a nation. The red of nationalism surrounding ethnicity, nationality and country visualizes ideology and conflict. The purpose of an individual or group, the relationship between the offender and the victim is mediated through red. The flag, the name tag, the costume appearing in the film are red. This can be seen in films such as Train to Busan, Assassination, Masquerade, Miracle in Cell No.7, Brotherhood of War, Northern Limit Line, Joint Security Area, Welcome to Dongmakgol, and May 18. Second, the red color attached to the female body fixes or strengthens socio-cultural sexuality and gender. The examples are films like Ode to My Father, The Thieves, The Host, Purpose Of Love, Sunny, Like A Virgin, Forbidden Quest, Untold Scandal, Bewitching Attraction, and Ssanghwajeom. Third, the blood red in Korean films is a visual device that directs magical horror, anger, and asceticism. Such films include The Neighbors, Bunshinsaba, R-Point, A Tale Of Two Sisters, Whispering Corridors, The Uninvited, Thirst, SECTOR 7, Asura:The City of Madness, The Tiger, Veteran, and so on. Fourth, red of tears constitutes the specific emotions such as a beautiful desire and a brilliant tragedy in films like King and The Clown, Oldboy, Memories of Murder, 26 Years, The Attorney, Unbowed, Sympathy For Lady Vengeance, Happy End, Punch, Calling, The Yellow Sea, and He's on Duty.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.80-91
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• 2017

This study identifies factors of Hanbok-trippers - a term for people who dress in Hanbok(Korean traditional costume) while going on a trip - who converge on Gyeongbokgung Palace by determining the characteristics of class, places to visit and preferred places. This study interprets the voluntary hobby activities of Hanbok-trippers from a viewpoint of a landscape prosumer and the meaning of the urban landscape. As a result of in-depth interviews, on-site survey, and observation surveys focused on Hanbok-trippers, there were various levels of participants. They are classified into three groups - leading group, entry group, temporary-experience group - according to their cognitions, types of Hanbok use, activities, etc. The leading group and entry group are a voluntary hobbyist class due to the ongoing tendencies of their participation. There are differences in the purpose and factors of visiting Gyeongbokgung Palace as a place for a Hanbok-trip. The leading group visited Gyeongbokgung Palace for cultural activities, regular get-together, public relations, and as a gathering place to go neighboring destinations. In this case, the main factors of the visit are the traditional landscape, convenient transportation, chances for traditional culture exhibitions and events in Gyeongbokgung Palace and its neighborhood. The entry group visits Gyeongbokgung Palace because of its traditional landscape and cultural activities nearby. The traditional landscape and many Hanbok-trippers are main factors of visiting Gyeongbokgung Palace for the Temporary-experience group. This study found that Gyeongbokgung Palace has a new sense of place of 'Introductory course of Hanbok-trip', 'Hanbok Playground' because temporary-experience group visits there to experience a Hanbok-trip for the first time. Hanbok-trippers consume places and landscape in actual places offline, producing a new landscape at the same time, and has the characteristics of a 'landscape prosumer' by producing landscape images online through their own personal or social media. Their colorful and voluntary movements contribute to the dynamism of the urban landscape and can become a new cultural asset for the city. The voluntary hobbyist class can be considered a new type of participants in bottom-up planning such as urban regeneration and place marketing. This study has significance in that it conceptualized the 'landscape prosumer' through the voluntary hobbyist class of Hanbok-trippers with the concept of the 'prosumer' that has been studied only in the consumer studies and marketing fields, and has identified the significance of the urban landscape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.67-74
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• 1985

According to the records that all the people in our country were taught the way of braiding the hair and hatting in the first year of 'Tangun' (the founding father of the Korean nation) and that the discipline between sovereign and subject, man and woman, and the standard of food, drink and dwelling were originated from that year, it seems that all the people in our country had lived with keeping a certain standard of food, clothing and shelter, and with maintaining the order in life from ancient times. So, our country have been called 'the Eastern Land of Courtesy' and also regarded as 'the country of the true gentle-man' which was characterized as the custom of a humane, and as the country that had the immortality since a benevolent person lived to a great age. Thus, all the people in our country have lived with keeping and maintaining a certain standard of all aspects in life, and the philosophy in life that we have today was established by the influences of our characteristic thought, Confucianism, Buddhism, Taoism and Christianity, especially the life style in the Chosun Dynasty Period have strong influence on our today life. Thus, the contents concerned with the standard of custume life among those of all life in the Chosun Dynasty Period was studied, and clothes itself is unable to give expression to its ends but when the relationship that is, the inter-harmony among clothes, the body which will be dressed in, and the inherent psyche in that body is formed, then the ends, the complete beauty will be expressed. Though there were many studies dealt with clothes itself, no one was concerned with the all kinds of standard in activities that the dresser should keep, so the purpose of this article is that as above. The literature search is used as the research method. The eight books, 'Noneo' (the Analects of Confucius), 'Yeogi' (the Book of Courtesy), 'Sohak' (the book of Precepts for child-ren), 'Yeosaseo'(the Women's Four Books), 'Sasojeol'(Korean Scholars' Minor Principles) 'Eonhaenaehoon' (Private Moral Instructions for Women), 'Woo-am seonsaeng kyenyeoseo' (Master Woo-am's Cautions for Girls) and 'Kyoobangkasa' (the Lyric Lines of the Boudoir) that had influenced the whole field of life in the Chosun Dynasty Period are analyzed, selected and finally arranged for studyilng the foundation of culture of the clothing and for helping to that culture in modern and future life. The results are as follows: 1. The standard of the clothing life in the Chosun Dynasty Period had deeply rooted in the teaching of confucianism, but also had been influenced by the custom which rooted in our people. 2. There is the emphasis upon the trinity among mind, clothes and activities in the clothing life. 3. The clothing and hat have to be dressed symmetrically in full of all required elements, 4. There is the harmony between the clothing with hat and environments or surroundings. 5. The true elegance in the clothing life will be realized not by the exterior outfit but by the interior outfit with the attitude of chastiny. In conclusion, as the material of clothing life in the Chosun Dynasty Period has the characteristics of the simplicity, the cleanliness, the elegance and the refinement, our clothing life is to be mastered with the simplicity, the cleanliness and the elegance in that life and with the harmony between the inside and the outside.

• Trans-
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• v.1
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• pp.21-44
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• 2016

Advertisement is composed with symbol and sign with messages trying to express. Especially, ad with dancer introduces goods or meaning of contents with the motion of dance. In this, contents of dance or motion of dancer contains symbol and sign, understanding how ad and dance are expressed meanings with which symbol and the symbolic meaning of dance or dancer on ad. To that end, this study is for analyzing expressed symbol with dance corresponds with the aim of ad and finding the way or attitude of how normal people accept dance by reevaluating symbolic meaning of dance itself. In this study, advertisement producer and director's related data is secured for understanding direction and intention of producer, and previous study related with the study purpose, image, and effect are analyzed for understanding image of dance as a physical sign on TV advertisement. With data from www.TVCF.co.kr. TV advertisement analysis is conducted only with four ads in 2008(Nam Kwang Eng. & Const Co., Lotte Dept. Store(premium sale/gift card), Hyundai Motor Company Santa Fe -Pilobolus) and one ad in 2011(PNS The zone Sash Italy Arena di Verona when dance was used for advertisement with the highest frequency per year. Also, based on considered important factors from repeatedly watching each advertisement, scenes where movement or motion of dancer and screen word is greatly changed are analyzed as a priority. Image analysis of dance is conducted with structure studies based on physical image(line, costume, expression) and dan image(type motion, qualitative feature, mood of dance). As a result, the symbolic dance image appeared in TV advertisement can be discussed as follows. First, symbol and sign of dance on advertisement corresponds with material objects of advertisement. For instance, on the TV advertisement where Lee Youngwoo appeared, his motion as a signifer means challenge for the future of Nam Kwang Eng. & Const Co., with fast turn, jump, assemble turning jump, and sliding. Second, physical image of dancer depending on intention of sender corresponds in general, but there are somewhat differences in image of dance. This makes people to unconsciously recognize symbolic image of dance on TV ad while they watch it at the same time. Especially, when it comes to advertisement, it exposes frequently with broadcasting of organized programs from a broadcaster, living long-time memory. It can be differ based on idea and character of each of receiver. Advertisement is a medium making people naturally adopt cultural art for ordinary people in their lives. Broadcasting public art from TV advertisement widely exposes pure art to people, which was only avaliable for minority, sublimating it as an art of public culture.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.137-156
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• 1998

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background, and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China, The results of the study are as follows. 1. Dress and personal ornaments of the Va peoples vary with the locality. Their traditional dress and adornment is characterized by those in the Ximeng area. Men usually wear black or dark blue collarless jackets and black and dark blue loose and short bagged trousers with folding waist. Women usually wear close-fitting sleeveless pullover blouses with V-shaped necks and straight skirts with patterns of red and black cross stripes. 2. Jingpo men have changed to wear shirts with button down the front and trousers. They also entwine white turbans with red bobbles on both ends, and carry diagonally long knives, firelocks and red woolen figured satchels on their shoulders. Women usually wear black velvet blouses with silver bowl-shaped ornaments and chains around collars and on the fronts. They also wear red straight skirts with overlapped slit on the right, waistbands and waist hoops made of rattan and bamboo. 3. The Naxi nationality has a long history and excellent traditional culture. In modern times, women like to wear red, blue or purple laced blouses, long double-layered pleated skirts, waistbands and embroidered shoes. They wear their hair in buns with either hats or kerchiefs over them. While working or going out, they put on their "seven-star" capes made of sheepskin and embroidered with two big circles and seven small ones, while is a symbol of their frog totem. 4. The dress and adorment of the Jinuo people is simple, elegant and has its own unique characteristics. Men usually wear white buttonless shirts with round necks and an opening on the front, knee-length bagged trousers and legging. They wear cloth turbans, earrings and also put small bamboo or silver pipes in the holes of their earlobes. Women wear short buttonless blouses with round necks and seven coloured stripes and thin tight-fitting or embroidered triangular underwear. 5. The dress and ardorment of the Benglong (De' ang) nationality has its own strong national colour. Most of the men wear jackets with buttons arranged diagonally on the front, loose, short trousers and black or white turbans. Some young men like to wear eardrops and silver necklaces. Women's dress and adornment differs according to various branches. For example, the women of the Bielie and Liang branches have their hair shaved and wear black turbans. They use large square silver tablets as buttons and wear blue or black blouses with buttons down the front. 6. Oai men usually wear trousers, white or blue cloth turbans and round-necked shirts with buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front. Women usually wear long straight skirt and blouses. But dress and adornment varies in regions. 7. The Bai nationality dress and adornment has unique national style. The dress fabrics are mainly cotton cloth, silk and velvet. Men usually wear red velvet vests over white shirts with buttons down the front or black velvet vests over light blue shirts. They also wear white of blue turbans and carry satchels with beautiful embroidered designs over their shoulders. Women usually wear red velvet vests over white blouses, or black vests over light-coloured blouses.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.90-111
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• 2021

Seojangdaeyajodo is a drawing of Jangyongyoung's military night training on February 12 (lunar leap month), 1795. Focusing on the Seojangdaeyajodo, the positions and roles of the low-ranking soldier belonging to Jangyongyoung, and the composition and characteristics of military uniforms for each role were examined. The results ascertained by the historical research on the military uniforms are as follows. Deungronggun, noeja, sunryeongsu and daegisu who were placed in front of the king's Seojangdae were the low-ranking soldiers belonging to Jangyongyoung. The soldiers who escorted the king around Seojangdae were lowranking soldiers belonging to Jangyongyoung. The military uniform of the deungronggun was consisted of a jeolrip, a black heopsu, red gweja, indigo jeondae, white haengjeon and black shoes. The low-ranking soldier's heopsu suggested that it could also be a sochangui. He carried a sword and a red lantern. Noeja were divided into a sinjeonsu and a jujangsu. The military uniform of the noeja was consisted of a Jujeolrip, a black heopsu, red gweja, indigo jeondae, white haengjeon, and black shoes. Sunryeongsu were divided into a sinsigisu and a younggisu. The military uniform of the sunryeongsu was consisted of a jeongeon, a black heopsu, red gweja, indigo jeondae white haengjeon and black shoes. He carried a sword and a red lantern. The military uniform of the daegisu was consisted of a jeongeon, a black heopsu, blue gweja, indigo jeondae, white haengjeon and black shoes. He carried a sword and a flag. The soldiers surrounding Seojangdae and the seongjeonggun defending the fortress were the Chogun. The military uniform of the chogun was consisted of a jeolrip, a black heopsu, houi, indigo jeondae, white haengjeon and straw shoes. Houi was applying the five directional colors: the east is blue, the west is white, the south is red, and the north is black. He carried a sword and a gun. It was presented as an illustration of costumes that could produce contents by reflecting on these historical results. The basic principle of the illustration was to present the standards for 3D content production or actual production. Samples of form, color, and material according to the times and status were presented. The front, the side, and the back of each costume and the feature were presented, and the colors were presented in RGB and CMYK.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.37
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• pp.5-31
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• 2018

The mask dance drama Goseong Ogwangdae's first act, Mundung Bukchum. The story is about a man who was born to the upper class but contracted leprosy, an incurable disease, due to his ancestors' accumulated sin. Although he is suffering, he is able to triumph over the disease through sinmyeong (catharsis) that is expressed through the wordless act of Mundung Bukchum. This thesis focuses on Goseong Ogwangdae's Mundung Bukchum, particularly the meaning, costume, accompanying music, and process of pedagogical transmission. The chronological characteristics of Goseong Ogwangdae's Mundung Bukchum are as follows. First, as time goes on, the number of dance motions in Mundung Bukchum has increased and the motions used have become reified. Second, I address the small barrel drum used in Mundung Bukchum and check how, through the drum, the changed expression of Mundung is shown.In a 1965 video introduced Mundung is grasping the drum and stick and the dance appears to be made up only of humorous motions. Also in a 1969 video, "Mundung Gwangdae," from the start Mundung is grasping the drum and stick. In 1988 in a video we can see the same scene as today, with the drum and stick sitting in the center of the stage at the start of the dance. We can also confirm that the same fourteen dance motions used today are present. Third, we can also confirm the changes in Goseong Ogwangdae's signature motion, baegimsae as time goes on. Observing the video from 1965, baegimsae does not appear in Mundung Bukchum. In 2000 we can clearly see the baegimsae performed once to the left and to the right while Mundung is squatting. Comparing 1969 to 1988, there is no symmetry in the motions, baegimsae is not done to both left and right, but only in one direction. Watching the record from 2000, the baegimsae motion is performed just as it is now, with the body thrown forward with a sharp push off the ground. Fourth I confirmed how the music used to accompany Goseong Ogwangdae's Mundung Bukchum has changed over time. In 1965 according to records of Mundung Bukchum's appearance, the dance was accompanied by the taryeong rhythmic pattern played on the usual four percussion instruments (barrel drum, hourglass drum, large gong, small gong). In the 1969 records of Mundung Bukchum the accompanying music is gutgeori rhythmic pattern performed on the usual four percussion instruments-an obvious difference. In 1988 the music with Mundung Bukchum is gutgeori rhythmic pattern transitioning into jajinmori rhythmic pattern. In 2000 the music with Mundung Bukchum includes the percussion instruments as well as taepyeongso (double reed oboe) playing gutgeori and jajinmori rhythmic patterns.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.64-87
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• 2017

Dahoe is a traditional braid in Joseon Dynasty. There are many Dahoe artifacts, which can give us a glimpse of the costume, culture, and life of that era. The study of Dahoe is necessary in various fields, but it is difficult because this manufacturing technique has been passed down from hand to hand. Few studies have been done so far. This research examines the manufacturing technique of KwangDahoe which is passed down by Maedeupjang (Decorative Knotting) and is generally used for knotting and/or tying objects. The main characteristic of TieKwangDahoe, made through the same method as WonDahoe, is the square hole in the middle. It was impossibile to remake the original braid because there is no confirmed number of the strand. Especially it is very difficult to do conservation and restoration on serious degradation state of the fiber. Therefore, it is necessary to analyze the non-destructive manufacturing techniques method for Dahoe and assess their applicability. First, we analyzed the artifacts' manufacturing technique based on the database of the Dahoe's manufacturing technique. In order to do that, we undertook schematization, restoration, morphological analyzation of the Dahoe. And then, X-ray CT scans were performed to improve the reliability of the DB. These results of scanning were interpreted based on the manufacturing technique. The selected Tie-KwangDahoe on the sword for the study are artifacts including artistic value and symbolism in Joseon Dynasty. Based on the analysis of the manufacturing technique, we found that both artifacts were made of 20-strand braid of single cross according to the length-scale measure. It was manufactured using 8-strand on left-right side, 12-strand on front-back side by the braiding manufacturing technique method Finally, this research suggests non-destructive analysis method of Dahoe's manufacturing technique is based on the database and the analysis results. I hope this research can be useful in various professional fields of Dahoe in the future. Moreover, I hope this can be of any help in preserving Korean cultural heritage.