• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.80-91
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• 2017

This study identifies factors of Hanbok-trippers - a term for people who dress in Hanbok(Korean traditional costume) while going on a trip - who converge on Gyeongbokgung Palace by determining the characteristics of class, places to visit and preferred places. This study interprets the voluntary hobby activities of Hanbok-trippers from a viewpoint of a landscape prosumer and the meaning of the urban landscape. As a result of in-depth interviews, on-site survey, and observation surveys focused on Hanbok-trippers, there were various levels of participants. They are classified into three groups - leading group, entry group, temporary-experience group - according to their cognitions, types of Hanbok use, activities, etc. The leading group and entry group are a voluntary hobbyist class due to the ongoing tendencies of their participation. There are differences in the purpose and factors of visiting Gyeongbokgung Palace as a place for a Hanbok-trip. The leading group visited Gyeongbokgung Palace for cultural activities, regular get-together, public relations, and as a gathering place to go neighboring destinations. In this case, the main factors of the visit are the traditional landscape, convenient transportation, chances for traditional culture exhibitions and events in Gyeongbokgung Palace and its neighborhood. The entry group visits Gyeongbokgung Palace because of its traditional landscape and cultural activities nearby. The traditional landscape and many Hanbok-trippers are main factors of visiting Gyeongbokgung Palace for the Temporary-experience group. This study found that Gyeongbokgung Palace has a new sense of place of 'Introductory course of Hanbok-trip', 'Hanbok Playground' because temporary-experience group visits there to experience a Hanbok-trip for the first time. Hanbok-trippers consume places and landscape in actual places offline, producing a new landscape at the same time, and has the characteristics of a 'landscape prosumer' by producing landscape images online through their own personal or social media. Their colorful and voluntary movements contribute to the dynamism of the urban landscape and can become a new cultural asset for the city. The voluntary hobbyist class can be considered a new type of participants in bottom-up planning such as urban regeneration and place marketing. This study has significance in that it conceptualized the 'landscape prosumer' through the voluntary hobbyist class of Hanbok-trippers with the concept of the 'prosumer' that has been studied only in the consumer studies and marketing fields, and has identified the significance of the urban landscape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.67-74
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• 1985

According to the records that all the people in our country were taught the way of braiding the hair and hatting in the first year of 'Tangun' (the founding father of the Korean nation) and that the discipline between sovereign and subject, man and woman, and the standard of food, drink and dwelling were originated from that year, it seems that all the people in our country had lived with keeping a certain standard of food, clothing and shelter, and with maintaining the order in life from ancient times. So, our country have been called 'the Eastern Land of Courtesy' and also regarded as 'the country of the true gentle-man' which was characterized as the custom of a humane, and as the country that had the immortality since a benevolent person lived to a great age. Thus, all the people in our country have lived with keeping and maintaining a certain standard of all aspects in life, and the philosophy in life that we have today was established by the influences of our characteristic thought, Confucianism, Buddhism, Taoism and Christianity, especially the life style in the Chosun Dynasty Period have strong influence on our today life. Thus, the contents concerned with the standard of custume life among those of all life in the Chosun Dynasty Period was studied, and clothes itself is unable to give expression to its ends but when the relationship that is, the inter-harmony among clothes, the body which will be dressed in, and the inherent psyche in that body is formed, then the ends, the complete beauty will be expressed. Though there were many studies dealt with clothes itself, no one was concerned with the all kinds of standard in activities that the dresser should keep, so the purpose of this article is that as above. The literature search is used as the research method. The eight books, 'Noneo' (the Analects of Confucius), 'Yeogi' (the Book of Courtesy), 'Sohak' (the book of Precepts for child-ren), 'Yeosaseo'(the Women's Four Books), 'Sasojeol'(Korean Scholars' Minor Principles) 'Eonhaenaehoon' (Private Moral Instructions for Women), 'Woo-am seonsaeng kyenyeoseo' (Master Woo-am's Cautions for Girls) and 'Kyoobangkasa' (the Lyric Lines of the Boudoir) that had influenced the whole field of life in the Chosun Dynasty Period are analyzed, selected and finally arranged for studyilng the foundation of culture of the clothing and for helping to that culture in modern and future life. The results are as follows: 1. The standard of the clothing life in the Chosun Dynasty Period had deeply rooted in the teaching of confucianism, but also had been influenced by the custom which rooted in our people. 2. There is the emphasis upon the trinity among mind, clothes and activities in the clothing life. 3. The clothing and hat have to be dressed symmetrically in full of all required elements, 4. There is the harmony between the clothing with hat and environments or surroundings. 5. The true elegance in the clothing life will be realized not by the exterior outfit but by the interior outfit with the attitude of chastiny. In conclusion, as the material of clothing life in the Chosun Dynasty Period has the characteristics of the simplicity, the cleanliness, the elegance and the refinement, our clothing life is to be mastered with the simplicity, the cleanliness and the elegance in that life and with the harmony between the inside and the outside.

• Trans-
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• v.1
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• pp.21-44
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• 2016

Advertisement is composed with symbol and sign with messages trying to express. Especially, ad with dancer introduces goods or meaning of contents with the motion of dance. In this, contents of dance or motion of dancer contains symbol and sign, understanding how ad and dance are expressed meanings with which symbol and the symbolic meaning of dance or dancer on ad. To that end, this study is for analyzing expressed symbol with dance corresponds with the aim of ad and finding the way or attitude of how normal people accept dance by reevaluating symbolic meaning of dance itself. In this study, advertisement producer and director's related data is secured for understanding direction and intention of producer, and previous study related with the study purpose, image, and effect are analyzed for understanding image of dance as a physical sign on TV advertisement. With data from www.TVCF.co.kr. TV advertisement analysis is conducted only with four ads in 2008(Nam Kwang Eng. & Const Co., Lotte Dept. Store(premium sale/gift card), Hyundai Motor Company Santa Fe -Pilobolus) and one ad in 2011(PNS The zone Sash Italy Arena di Verona when dance was used for advertisement with the highest frequency per year. Also, based on considered important factors from repeatedly watching each advertisement, scenes where movement or motion of dancer and screen word is greatly changed are analyzed as a priority. Image analysis of dance is conducted with structure studies based on physical image(line, costume, expression) and dan image(type motion, qualitative feature, mood of dance). As a result, the symbolic dance image appeared in TV advertisement can be discussed as follows. First, symbol and sign of dance on advertisement corresponds with material objects of advertisement. For instance, on the TV advertisement where Lee Youngwoo appeared, his motion as a signifer means challenge for the future of Nam Kwang Eng. & Const Co., with fast turn, jump, assemble turning jump, and sliding. Second, physical image of dancer depending on intention of sender corresponds in general, but there are somewhat differences in image of dance. This makes people to unconsciously recognize symbolic image of dance on TV ad while they watch it at the same time. Especially, when it comes to advertisement, it exposes frequently with broadcasting of organized programs from a broadcaster, living long-time memory. It can be differ based on idea and character of each of receiver. Advertisement is a medium making people naturally adopt cultural art for ordinary people in their lives. Broadcasting public art from TV advertisement widely exposes pure art to people, which was only avaliable for minority, sublimating it as an art of public culture.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.137-156
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• 1998

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background, and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China, The results of the study are as follows. 1. Dress and personal ornaments of the Va peoples vary with the locality. Their traditional dress and adornment is characterized by those in the Ximeng area. Men usually wear black or dark blue collarless jackets and black and dark blue loose and short bagged trousers with folding waist. Women usually wear close-fitting sleeveless pullover blouses with V-shaped necks and straight skirts with patterns of red and black cross stripes. 2. Jingpo men have changed to wear shirts with button down the front and trousers. They also entwine white turbans with red bobbles on both ends, and carry diagonally long knives, firelocks and red woolen figured satchels on their shoulders. Women usually wear black velvet blouses with silver bowl-shaped ornaments and chains around collars and on the fronts. They also wear red straight skirts with overlapped slit on the right, waistbands and waist hoops made of rattan and bamboo. 3. The Naxi nationality has a long history and excellent traditional culture. In modern times, women like to wear red, blue or purple laced blouses, long double-layered pleated skirts, waistbands and embroidered shoes. They wear their hair in buns with either hats or kerchiefs over them. While working or going out, they put on their "seven-star" capes made of sheepskin and embroidered with two big circles and seven small ones, while is a symbol of their frog totem. 4. The dress and adorment of the Jinuo people is simple, elegant and has its own unique characteristics. Men usually wear white buttonless shirts with round necks and an opening on the front, knee-length bagged trousers and legging. They wear cloth turbans, earrings and also put small bamboo or silver pipes in the holes of their earlobes. Women wear short buttonless blouses with round necks and seven coloured stripes and thin tight-fitting or embroidered triangular underwear. 5. The dress and ardorment of the Benglong (De' ang) nationality has its own strong national colour. Most of the men wear jackets with buttons arranged diagonally on the front, loose, short trousers and black or white turbans. Some young men like to wear eardrops and silver necklaces. Women's dress and adornment differs according to various branches. For example, the women of the Bielie and Liang branches have their hair shaved and wear black turbans. They use large square silver tablets as buttons and wear blue or black blouses with buttons down the front. 6. Oai men usually wear trousers, white or blue cloth turbans and round-necked shirts with buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front. Women usually wear long straight skirt and blouses. But dress and adornment varies in regions. 7. The Bai nationality dress and adornment has unique national style. The dress fabrics are mainly cotton cloth, silk and velvet. Men usually wear red velvet vests over white shirts with buttons down the front or black velvet vests over light blue shirts. They also wear white of blue turbans and carry satchels with beautiful embroidered designs over their shoulders. Women usually wear red velvet vests over white blouses, or black vests over light-coloured blouses.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.90-111
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• 2021

Seojangdaeyajodo is a drawing of Jangyongyoung's military night training on February 12 (lunar leap month), 1795. Focusing on the Seojangdaeyajodo, the positions and roles of the low-ranking soldier belonging to Jangyongyoung, and the composition and characteristics of military uniforms for each role were examined. The results ascertained by the historical research on the military uniforms are as follows. Deungronggun, noeja, sunryeongsu and daegisu who were placed in front of the king's Seojangdae were the low-ranking soldiers belonging to Jangyongyoung. The soldiers who escorted the king around Seojangdae were lowranking soldiers belonging to Jangyongyoung. The military uniform of the deungronggun was consisted of a jeolrip, a black heopsu, red gweja, indigo jeondae, white haengjeon and black shoes. The low-ranking soldier's heopsu suggested that it could also be a sochangui. He carried a sword and a red lantern. Noeja were divided into a sinjeonsu and a jujangsu. The military uniform of the noeja was consisted of a Jujeolrip, a black heopsu, red gweja, indigo jeondae, white haengjeon, and black shoes. Sunryeongsu were divided into a sinsigisu and a younggisu. The military uniform of the sunryeongsu was consisted of a jeongeon, a black heopsu, red gweja, indigo jeondae white haengjeon and black shoes. He carried a sword and a red lantern. The military uniform of the daegisu was consisted of a jeongeon, a black heopsu, blue gweja, indigo jeondae, white haengjeon and black shoes. He carried a sword and a flag. The soldiers surrounding Seojangdae and the seongjeonggun defending the fortress were the Chogun. The military uniform of the chogun was consisted of a jeolrip, a black heopsu, houi, indigo jeondae, white haengjeon and straw shoes. Houi was applying the five directional colors: the east is blue, the west is white, the south is red, and the north is black. He carried a sword and a gun. It was presented as an illustration of costumes that could produce contents by reflecting on these historical results. The basic principle of the illustration was to present the standards for 3D content production or actual production. Samples of form, color, and material according to the times and status were presented. The front, the side, and the back of each costume and the feature were presented, and the colors were presented in RGB and CMYK.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.37
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• pp.5-31
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• 2018

The mask dance drama Goseong Ogwangdae's first act, Mundung Bukchum. The story is about a man who was born to the upper class but contracted leprosy, an incurable disease, due to his ancestors' accumulated sin. Although he is suffering, he is able to triumph over the disease through sinmyeong (catharsis) that is expressed through the wordless act of Mundung Bukchum. This thesis focuses on Goseong Ogwangdae's Mundung Bukchum, particularly the meaning, costume, accompanying music, and process of pedagogical transmission. The chronological characteristics of Goseong Ogwangdae's Mundung Bukchum are as follows. First, as time goes on, the number of dance motions in Mundung Bukchum has increased and the motions used have become reified. Second, I address the small barrel drum used in Mundung Bukchum and check how, through the drum, the changed expression of Mundung is shown.In a 1965 video introduced Mundung is grasping the drum and stick and the dance appears to be made up only of humorous motions. Also in a 1969 video, "Mundung Gwangdae," from the start Mundung is grasping the drum and stick. In 1988 in a video we can see the same scene as today, with the drum and stick sitting in the center of the stage at the start of the dance. We can also confirm that the same fourteen dance motions used today are present. Third, we can also confirm the changes in Goseong Ogwangdae's signature motion, baegimsae as time goes on. Observing the video from 1965, baegimsae does not appear in Mundung Bukchum. In 2000 we can clearly see the baegimsae performed once to the left and to the right while Mundung is squatting. Comparing 1969 to 1988, there is no symmetry in the motions, baegimsae is not done to both left and right, but only in one direction. Watching the record from 2000, the baegimsae motion is performed just as it is now, with the body thrown forward with a sharp push off the ground. Fourth I confirmed how the music used to accompany Goseong Ogwangdae's Mundung Bukchum has changed over time. In 1965 according to records of Mundung Bukchum's appearance, the dance was accompanied by the taryeong rhythmic pattern played on the usual four percussion instruments (barrel drum, hourglass drum, large gong, small gong). In the 1969 records of Mundung Bukchum the accompanying music is gutgeori rhythmic pattern performed on the usual four percussion instruments-an obvious difference. In 1988 the music with Mundung Bukchum is gutgeori rhythmic pattern transitioning into jajinmori rhythmic pattern. In 2000 the music with Mundung Bukchum includes the percussion instruments as well as taepyeongso (double reed oboe) playing gutgeori and jajinmori rhythmic patterns.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.64-87
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• 2017

Dahoe is a traditional braid in Joseon Dynasty. There are many Dahoe artifacts, which can give us a glimpse of the costume, culture, and life of that era. The study of Dahoe is necessary in various fields, but it is difficult because this manufacturing technique has been passed down from hand to hand. Few studies have been done so far. This research examines the manufacturing technique of KwangDahoe which is passed down by Maedeupjang (Decorative Knotting) and is generally used for knotting and/or tying objects. The main characteristic of TieKwangDahoe, made through the same method as WonDahoe, is the square hole in the middle. It was impossibile to remake the original braid because there is no confirmed number of the strand. Especially it is very difficult to do conservation and restoration on serious degradation state of the fiber. Therefore, it is necessary to analyze the non-destructive manufacturing techniques method for Dahoe and assess their applicability. First, we analyzed the artifacts' manufacturing technique based on the database of the Dahoe's manufacturing technique. In order to do that, we undertook schematization, restoration, morphological analyzation of the Dahoe. And then, X-ray CT scans were performed to improve the reliability of the DB. These results of scanning were interpreted based on the manufacturing technique. The selected Tie-KwangDahoe on the sword for the study are artifacts including artistic value and symbolism in Joseon Dynasty. Based on the analysis of the manufacturing technique, we found that both artifacts were made of 20-strand braid of single cross according to the length-scale measure. It was manufactured using 8-strand on left-right side, 12-strand on front-back side by the braiding manufacturing technique method Finally, this research suggests non-destructive analysis method of Dahoe's manufacturing technique is based on the database and the analysis results. I hope this research can be useful in various professional fields of Dahoe in the future. Moreover, I hope this can be of any help in preserving Korean cultural heritage.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.44-65
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• 2018

This study examined the costumes of the characters in the painting titled Hig yongru Banghwoedo, which was designated as National Treasure No. 1879 in September 2015, and is currently kept in the Dongguk University Museum. The painting depicts a social gathering of Joseon aristocrats held at the higyongru, or watch tower, of the Gwangjumok, a government office, in 1567. It is characterized by the delicate illustration of the government officials, the main characters of the gathering, and the hyangri, ajeon, najang, chorye, akgong, and yeogi, the lower-class employees of the office. In order to investigate the costumes they wore, diverse materials including literature, costume artifacts, and paintings were used as reference sources. The scope of the study was limited to the characters' headdress and gown, and the accessories attached to the former. The study of men's clothing revealed that officials wore a samo and a red dalryeong as basic attire. In addition, it is presumed that they wore a belt indicating their official rank in the hierarchy, and a pair of black shoes. Retired officials wore a heuklip wrapped in horsehair or silk fabric with a red jing-nyeong and a doah. The hyangri wore a heukjukbanglip on their head, as well as a white jing-nyeong and a belted doah. In the Goryeo period, the banglip was a type of official headdress worn by members of the aristocratic elite ranked immediately below the king, but in Joseon it was demoted as the official headgear of the hyangri class, which was confirmed through Higyongru Banghwoedo. The ajeon wore a heuklip on their head, and a white jing-nyeong and a doah at the waist. As a rule, the najang wore a chogun on the head, and a banbieui on cheolrik and chungmokdai, but the najang in Higyongru Banghwoedo are depicted wearing a chogun and a cheolrik without a banbieui. Also, the chorye wore a heuklip wrapped in hemp cloth with a red cheolrik, whereas the akgong wore a somoja and a red cheolrik. Female entertainers, both adults and children, are depicted in the painting as either serving the aristocrats, dancing, or playing a musical instrument, wearing their hair in a voluminous, round, high bun, and dressed in a red daiyo, a hwangjangsam with a straight or reclined collar, and a belt. Notably, the donggi, i.e. young gisaeng, are shown wearing their hair in two short braids, and ddressed in a red gown with a y-shaped collar, or po.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.105-114
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• 2021

This study determines the differences between Korean female university students and their Chinese counterparts residing in Korea by evaluating the subjective sensation and tactile preference in fabrics for casual shirts. Seven types of white causal shirt fabrics were selected as specimens from those available in spring and autumn shirt collection. The fabrics were made from various fibers (cotton 100%, polyester 100%, flax 100%, polyester 80%/cotton 20%, polyester 65%/cotton 35%, polyester 50%/cotton 45%/spandex 5%, and polyester 50%/modal 50%). Forty Korean and Chinese female university students subjectively assessed the subjective sensation of fabrics used for casual shirts. Participants were asked to observe the seven types of fabrics and complete the questionnaire. The subjective sensation to be assessed for white casual shirt fabrics was classified into the following four factors: smoothness, lightness, softness, and stretchiness. Subjective sensation factors showed partially significant differences by nationality. Korean female students evaluated cotton fabric as being light, whereas their Chinese counterparts evaluated the polyester/cotton/spandex blended fabric as light. Korean female students evaluated polyester/modal blended fabric as being stretchable. The tactile preference for fiber composition of the fabrics showed partially significant differences by nationality. Korean female students preferred cotton 80%/polyester 20% blended fabric, polyester 50%/cotton 45%/spandex 5% blended fabric, and flax 100% fabric. The subjective sensation of the fabrics had different effects on preferences by nationality. Smoothness and softness had positive effects on preferences for the fabrics of Korean students. However, smoothness, softness, and stretchiness had positive effects on the preferences of Chinese students. The subjective sensation and tactile preference for casual shirt fabrics showed a difference between Korean female students and their Chinese counterparts. Therefore, when planning casual shirt fabrics for female university students, it is necessary to reflect on these differences in subjective sensation and tactile preference.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.78-97
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• 2021

Seojangdaeyajodo is a drawing of military night training on February 12th (lunar leap month), 1795. Focusing on the Seojangdaeyajodo, the characteristics and of the costumes worn by various types of officials were examined. There were 34 officials located near King Jeongjo in and around Seojangdae, with 27 Dangsanggwan and 7 Danghagwan. They wore three types of costumes, including armor, yungbok, and military uniforms. All of the twelve armor wearers and the five officials wearing yungbok were dangsanggwan, and the military uniform wearers included eleven dangsanggwan and six danghagwan. For the shape of the armor, the armor relics of General Yeoban, suitable for riding horses, and the armor painting of Muyedobotongji were referenced, and the composition of the armor was based on practicality. The armor consists of a helmet, a suit of armor, a neck guard, armpit guards, arm guards, and a crotch guard. The color of the armor was red and green, which are the most frequently used colors in Seojangdaeyajodo. The composition of yungbok was jurip, navy cheollik, red gwangdahoe, socks made of leather, and suhwaja. The composition of the military uniform was a lined jeolrip, dongdari, jeonbok, yodae, jeondae, and suhwaja. There were differences in the fabrics used in dangsanggwan and danghagwan military uniforms. Dangsanggwan used fabric with depictions of clouds and jewels, and danghagwan used unpatterned fabric. Moreover, jade, gold, and silver were used for detailed ornamental materials in dangsanggwan. The weapons included bows and a bow case, a sword, a rattan stick, wrist straps, and a ggakji. In the records of the King Jeongjo period, various colored heopsu were mentioned; the colors of the dongdari and jeonbok of dangsanggwan and danghagwan were referenced in various colors. It was presented as an illustration of costumes that could be used to produce objects accurately reflecting the above historical results. The basic principle of the illustration was to present the modeling standards for 3D content production. Samples of form, color, and material of the corresponding times and statuses were presented. The front, the side, and the back of each costume and its accessories were presented, and the colors were presented in RGB and CMYK.