• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.287-294
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• 2015

In this study, we investigated the antioxidative effects of brown seaweed Ecklonia cava extract and its subfractions. All experiments were performed with 50% ethanol extract, ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction of E. cava. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities ($FSC_{50}$) of ethyl acetate fraction ($FSC_{50}=6.98{\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction ($7.03{\mu}g/mL$) are similar to that of (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol ($8.98{\mu}g/mL$) which is a reference control. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity (total antioxidant capacity, $OSC_{50}$) of the aglycone fraction ($OSC_{50}=14.48{\mu}g/mL$) on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay was the strongest among all extract and fractions. However, all samples showed lower antioxidant activities than that of L-ascorbic acid ($6.88{\mu}g/mL$) known as a powerful antioxidant. The protective effect of 50% ethanol extract on the $^1O_2$-induced cellular damage of human erythrocytes was dependent on the concentration from 5 to $50{\mu}g/mL$. Both ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction showed strong cellular protective activities at $10{\mu}g/mL$, where the cellular protective effects (${\tau}_{50}$) of each fraction were recorded 442.0 min and 539.9 min, respectively. Three kinds of extract/fractions of E. cava showed much greater cellular protective activities at $10{\mu}g/mL$ than that of liposoluble antioxidant (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol (40.6 min) which is a reference control. These results suggest E. cava extracts and its fractions can be applied as an antioxidant ingredient in a field of cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.3
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• pp.195-203
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• 2013

In this study, antioxidative effects of the extracts of different species and flowering periods of Inula britannica were investigated. According to the free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity of the extracts, The I. britannica var. chinensis flower extract (500 ${\mu}g/mL$) was measured in a 79.89% free radical scavenging activity, but the flower extracts of similar species (I. britannica var. linariaefolia Regel, I. britannica var. ramosa, I. salicina var. asiatica) did not show any effect on the free radical scavenging activity. The effects of the free radical scavenging activity of I. britannica var. chinensis flower extracts were exhibited in the order of full bloom (93.68%), bud (43.28%), and fallen blossom (14.11%). Next, we established optimum condition of extract solvent, temperature, extraction time. The extract from ethanol at $60^{\circ}C$ showed the most free radical scavenging activity among other conditions and extraction time not relevant in free radical scavenging activity. The protective effects of the extract of I. britannica var. chinensis flower on the photohemolysis of human erythrocytes by using rose bengal were increased in a concentration-dependent manner (5 ~ 50 ${\mu}g/mL$). In particular, the extract in 50 ${\mu}g/mL$ concentration exhibited better protective activity (${\tau}_{50}$ = 116.1 min) than (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol (${\tau}_{50}$ = 73.44 min), which is a known lipophilic antioxidant. Principle component of I. britannica var. chinensis flower was identified as quercetin of flavonoids by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). These results indicate that the extract of I. britannica var. chinensis flower can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging free radical and $^1O_2$, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. It is concluded that the antioxidative effects of the extract of I. britannica var. chinensis flower could be applicable to functional cosmetics.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.43-49
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• 2012

In this study, we investigated the antibacterial activity and stability of a cream containing Hippophae rhamnoides leaf extract. The MIC values of ethyl acetate fraction from an H. rhamnoides leaf on Escherichia coli, Pityrosporum ovale, Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus were 0.5%, 0.25%, 0.25% and 0.06%, respectively. Stability evaluations, pH, viscosity and absorbance of the cream containing 0.25% ethyl acetate fraction of H. rhamnoides, were performed. The cream was measured under 4 different temperature conditions under sunlight at 2-week intervals for 12 weeks. The viscosity and pH were measured by a comparison of the experimental cream with a similar control cream. The H. rhamnoides extract was found to have contributed to the stability of the emulsion product via a protective effect in maintaining the viscosity of the cream against sunlight. The absorbance variations of the experimental cream at 270 nm were, under sunlight; $45^{\circ}C$, $37^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, and $4^{\circ}C$. In addition, any change in color or smell was not observed through the 12 weeks of the experimental period. These results indicated that the cream containing 0.25% ethyl acetate fraction of H. rhamnoides leaf extract was stable. Accordingly, this suggests that further study is needed to provide additional information for manufacturers, who are seeking the application of the extract to improve anti-oxidant and antibacterial activities and the stability of cosmetic products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.391-400
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• 2015

In the present study, 50% ethanol extract, the ethyl acetate and aglycone fraction were prepared from mate (Ilex paraguariensis) and their antioxidative ability was evaluated. The yields of extract and fractions were 32.0, 4.48 and 0.82% per dried powder, respectively. Free radical scavenging activities were performed by 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay and total antioxidant capacity was estimated using luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. Free radical scavenging activities ($FSC_{50}$) of 50 % ethanol extract, ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction were 8.83, 5.84 and $6.05{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. Their total antioxidant capacities ($OSC_{50}$) were similar to that of L-ascorbic acid ($1.72{\mu}g/mL$), known as a prominent water soluble antioxidant, in all extracts and 50% ethanol extract ($1.03{\mu}g/mL$) was the most effective. The cellular protective effects on the $^1O_2$-induced cellular damage of erythrocytes were evaluated and the results showed that all extracts were significantly higher than (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol at $10{\mu}g/mL$. Especially, the ${\tau}_{50}$ value of aglycone fraction was 5 times higher than (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol at $10{\mu}g/mL$ and $50{\mu}g/mL$. The inhibitory effects of the ethyl acetate and aglycone fractions on tyrosinase were similar to arbutin, known as the whitening agent in cosmetics. These results suggest that the extracts of mate have the applicability as antioxidant and anti-aging cosmeceutical ingredients.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.315-324
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• 2015

In this study, we prepared liquid crystal emulsion composed of amphiphilic substance $C_{14-22}$ alcohol, $C_{12-20}$ alkyl glucoside, behenyl alcohol and studied liquid crystal emulsion of properties and in vitro skin permeation. The results of formulation experiments, the clear liquid crystalline structure was observed in the ratio of $C_{14-22}$ alcohol 0.8%, $C_{12-20}$ alkyl glucoside 3.2%, behenyl alcohol 4% in the formulation. The results of physical property measurements, the viscosity of liquid crystal emulsion and O/W emulsion applied as a control group was respectively $1871.26{\sim}1.15Pa{\cdot}s$, $1768.69{\sim}1.14Pa{\cdot}s$ and the shear stress of O/W emulsion was 178.68 ~ 909.18 Pa, that of liquid crystal emulsion was 190.45 ~ 919.38 Pa. The storage modulus of O/W emulsion was 3428.53 ~ 9157.45 Pa, that of liquid crystal emulsion was 4487.82 ~ 8195.59 Pa. The tan (delta) value of O/W emulsion which means a ratio of viscosity to elasticity was 0.43 ~ 0.19, and that of liquid crystal emulsion was 0.23 ~ 0.25. The water content value on the skin for liquid crystal emulsion was significantly higher from 1 h to 6 h compared with that of O/W emulsion and the transepidermal water loss on the skin was significantly superior in skin moisture loss suppression from 30 min to 4 h compared with that of O/W emulsion. The results of skin permeation using glycyrrhizic acid, the result of skin permeation amount of liquid crystal emulsion for 24 h was $64.58{\mu}g/cm^2$, that of O/W emulsion was $37.07{\mu}g/cm^2$, that of butylene glycol solution was $41.05{\mu}g/cm^2$. Hourly permeability results, it is showed that skin penetration effect of the liquid crystal emulsion increases after 8 h. These results suggest that liquid crystal emulsions are effective for skin moisturizing effect and function as potential efficacy ingredient delivery system for the transdermal delivery.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.79-89
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• 2018

In this study, the anti-oxidant, whitening, and anti-wrinkle effects of Castanea crenata inner shell extracts processed by enzyme treatment and pressurized extraction were investigated. The Castanea crenata inner shell was first hydrolyzed using celluclast, viscozyme, or hemicellulase. Then, it was subjected to pressure extraction for different durations (30, 60, and 120 min). The yields of the Castanea crenata inner shell extracts processed by different enzyme treatments followed by pressurized extraction for different times are in the range of 12.42-29.80%. The total polyphenol, flavonoid, and tannin contents of the C30m (celluclast enzyme and autoclave extracts at 30 min) extract were 15.48, 10.82, and 15.82 g/100 g, respectively. The total sugar content of the H120m(hemicellulase enzyme and autoclave extracts at 120 min) extract is 61.07 g/100 g. The 1,1-diphenyl-2-pycrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2'-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical scavenging activities of the C30m extract at $1,000{\mu}g/mL$ are 89.20, and 81.96%, respectively. The superoxide radical scavenging and ferric-reducing antioxidant power of the C30m extract at $1,000{\mu}g/mL$ are 67.63% and $1,324.79{\mu}M$, respectively. Further, the tyrosinase and elastase inhibition activity of the C30m extract at $1,000{\mu}g/mL$ are 61.32, and 61.06%, respectively. Our results indicate that the Castanea crenata inner shell extracts processed by enzyme treatment followed by pressurized extraction could have beneficial effects on facial skin and they should be considered for use in new functional cosmetics.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.187-193
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• 2019

The newly bred Picnic apple was extracted using water and ethanol for extracting solvent. Each water and ethanol extract showed relatively high phenolic compound of 3.69 and 5.55 mg/g. Each water and ethanol extract of Picnic apple showed 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl of 88.10 and 88.07%, 2,2'-Azinobis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) of 98.79 and 97.25%, antioxidant protection factor of 2.07 and 2.00 PF and thiobarbituric acid reactive substances showed anti-oxidation effect of 9.69 and 19.83% all at $100{\mu}g/mL$ phenolics concentration. Therefore extract of Picnic apple can be considered as anti-oxidant for anti-aging. The anti-inflammatory effect (hyaluronidase inhibition) of extract of Picnic apple were 4.62% with water extract and 4.39% with ethanol extract both at $200{\mu}g/mL$ phenolics concentration. Both water and ethanol extract showed low ${\alpha}$-amylase inhibition effect but each showed 67.37 and 79.16% of ${\alpha}$-glucosidase inhibition effect at $200{\mu}g/mL$ phenolics concentration. In anti-wrinkle effect, water extract showed each 23.70 and 66.29% in elastase inhibition and collagenase inhibition and ethanol extract showed 64.83 and 65.70% each. These result show high potential for functional food and cosmetic source. Picnic apple was identified to have various functions of anti-oxidation, anti-inflammation, anti-wrinkle effect, and anti-diabetic effect. Therefore, Picnic apple is qualified as a source for new functional cosmetics and functional foods.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.199-208
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• 2019

This study reports water-resistant oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion-based sunscreening formulations prepared using a poly(ethylene glycol)-poly(${\varepsilon}$-caprolactone)-poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG-PCL-PEG) triblock polymeric surfactant. As a result of a variety of outdoor recreational activities such as swimming and hiking, consumer needs for development of advanced water-resistant sunscreen formulations are increasing. Water-resistant sunscreens are mostly based on water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions, because they should not be wiped off by water or sweat. However, the W/O emulsion formulations have a disadvantage in that the feeling of use is oily and difficult to remove. On the other hand, the O/W emulsion formulations are excellent in achieving the better skin feel as well as the easier removal. However, it is difficult to provide the O/W emulsion formulations with the water-repelling performance, since re-emulsification likely occurs upon getting touch with water. To solve this problem, this study proposes a O/W emulsion-based sunscreen formulation, a triblock polymeric surfactant having relatively high interfacial tension HLB value (~ 10). This allows the sunscreen formulations to exhibit the improved water repellence function by preventing their re-emulsification. The sunscreen formation system prepared in this study would be useful for diversification of functional sunscreen products, taking advantages of its excellent emulsion stability, UV protection performance, long lasting water-resistant function and selective cleansing effect with only foam cleanser.

• Korean Journal of Ecology and Environment
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• v.55 no.3
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• pp.185-200
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• 2022

The risk of various hazardous substances in aquatic environment comprises not only the concentration of substances in the environmental medium but also their accumulation in fish through complex food web and the health risks to humans through the fish. In Korea, the monitoring of residual toxicant in aquatic ecosystems began in 2016 following the enforcement of the Acts on registration and evaluation for the management of chemicals used in daily life (consumer chemical products), and attention has been paid to potentially hazardous substances attributed to them. Recently, studies have been carried out to investigate the distribution of these hazardous substances in the ecosystem and calculate their emission factors. These include the accumulation and transport of substances, such as detergents, dyes, fragrances, cosmetics, and disinfectants, within trophic levels. This study summarizes the results of recently published research on the inflow and distribution of hazardous substances from consumer chemical products to the aquatic environment and presents the scientific implication. Based on studies on aquatic environment monitoring techniques, this study suggests research directions for monitoring the residual concentration and distribution of harmful chemical substances in aquatic ecosystems. In particular, this study introduces the directions for research on trophic position analysis using compound specific isotope analysis and trophic magnification factors, which are needed to fulfill the contemporary requirements of selecting target fish based on the survey of major fish that inhabit domestic waters and assessment of associated health risk. In addition, this study provides suggestions for future biota monitoring and chemical research in Korea.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.91-101
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• 2009

in the cosmetics and medical supply field as a antioxidant material. The stable nano particle emulsion of skin toner type containing VEA was prepared. To evaluate the skin permeation, experiments on VEA permeation to the skin of the ICR outbred albino mice (12 weeks, about 50 g, female) and on differences of solubility as a function of receptor formulations was performed. The analysis of nano-emulsions containing VEA 0.07 % showed that the higher ethanol contents the larger emulsions were formed, while the higher surfactant contents the size became smaller.In this study, vitamin E acetate (VEA, tocopheryl acetate), a lipid-soluble vitamin which is widely used A certain contents of ethanol in receptor phase increased VEA solubility on the nano-emulsion. When the ethanol contents were 10.0 % and 20.0 %, the VEA solubility was higher than 5.0 % and 40.0 %, respectively. The type of surfactant in receptor solution influenced to VEA solubility. The comparison between three kind surfactants whose chemical structures and HLB values are different, showed that solubility of VEA was increased as order of sorbitan sesquioleate (Arlacel 83; HLB 3.7) > POE (10) hydrogenated castor oil (HCO-10; HLB 6.5) > sorbitan monostearate (Arlacel 60; HLB 4.7). VEA solubility was also shown to be different according to the type of antioxidant. In early time, the solubility of the sample including ascorbic acid was similar to those of other samples including other types of antioxidants. However, the solubility of the sample including ascorbic acid was 2 times higher than others after 24 h. Franz diffusion cell experiment using mouse skin was performed with four nano-emulsion samples which have different VEA contents. The emulsion of 10 wt% ethanol was shown to be the most permeable at the amount of 128.8 ${\mu}g/cm^2$. When the result of 10 % ethanol content was compared with initial input of 220.057 ${\mu}g/cm^2$, the permeated amount was 58.53 % and the permeated amount at 10 % ethanol was higher 45.0 % and 15.0 % than the other results which ethanol contents were 1.0 and 20.0 wt%, respectively. Emulsion particle size used 0.5 % surfactant (HCO-60) was 26.0 nm that is one twentieth time smaller than the size of 0.007 % surfactant (HCO-60) at the same ethanol content. Transepidermal permeation of VEA was 54.848 ${\mu}g/cm^2$ which is smaller than that of particlesize 590.7 nm. Skin permeation of nano-emulsion containing VEA and difference of VEA solubility as a function of receptor phase formulation were determined from the results. Using these results, optimal conditions of transepidermal permeation with VEA were considered to be set up.