• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.10-18
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• 2009

Dyeing process of the natural indigo powder onto ramie and silk fabrics was investigated by using glucose and calcium hydroxide as a reducing system. Effect of reduction and dyeing conditions such as temperature and time of reduction/dyeing, and concentrations of glucose and calcium hydroxide on the dyeing process were explored. Indigo powder was obtained by drying the conventional niram paste in an oven at $50^{\circ}C$. Color strength of the dyed fabrics was evaluated by K/S value measured at the wavelength of maximum absorption(${\lamda}$max). Munsell color coordinates(H V/C) were used to compare fabric colors of ramie and silk. Ramie fabric showed purple-blue color for all the temperature and time. On the contrary, silk fabric showed wide range of color including brown, brown-green, green at the different temperature. With the increase of K/S value, the coordinate of value(lightness) decreased for both of ramie and silk fabrics. The coordinate of hue(shade) changed drastically with the increase of K/S value for silk fabric, compared with that of ramie fabric which showed nearly constant value at the whole range of K/S value. Optimum concentrations of calcium hydroxide were for 6 g/L for ramie and 4 g/L for silk at $60^{\circ}C$ and 50 min. K/S value increased with the indigo concentration. Maximum K/S value was shown at $10{\sim}12$ g/L of glucose concentration. For both of ramie and silk fabrics, the colorfastness of washing and light was lower than that of rubbing. All the colorfastness values were improved with the increase of color strength.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.386-397
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• 2023

In this study, the efficacy of ultrasonic washing in cotton and wool fabrics was compared and evaluated against conventional washing in terms of cleaning properties and fabric deformation. Factors such as washing temperature, time, liquid ratio, and detergent concentration were kept varied, and the cleaning properties of sebum-soiled fabrics were assessed using different detergents such as alcohol ethoxylate, linear alkylbenzenesulfonate, and IEC 60456 Reference Detergent A^*. In addition, the effects and emulsification power of enzymes and oxygen bleach were examined. To compare the cleaning properties with general washing, a launder-O-meter was used. To investigate fabric deformation during the washing process, the loosening test cloth, shrinkage test cloth, and mechanical strength test cloth were compared between ultrasonic washing machines and household drum washing machines. The results indicate that ultrasonic washing exhibits superior cleaning properties than launder-O-meter when the temperature is low and the washing time is short. Furthermore, there is less deformation and damage during the washing process. It was also observed that the activity of the detergent increases when ultrasonic waves are applied to the washing process. Considering the increasing tendency to pursue convenience and simplicity in clothing management as well as the anticipated commercialization of smart clothing with built-in electric circuits, ultrasonic laundry could serve as a new alternative to existing laundry methods.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Electrical and Electronic Material Engineers
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.367-372
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• 2013

In this paper, micro dried bio-potential electrodes are demonstrated for sEMG (surface ElectroMyoGraphic) signal measurement using conductive epoxy on the textile fabric. Micro dried bio-potential electrodes on the textile fabric substrate have several advantages over the conventional wet/dry electrodes such as good feeling of wearing, possibility of extended-wearing due to the good ventilation. Also these electrodes on the textile fabric can easily apply to the curved skin surface. These electrodes are fabricated by the screen-printing process with the size of $1mm{\times}10mm$ and the resultant resistance of these electrodes have the average value of $0.4{\Omega}$. The conventional silver chloride electrode shows the average value of $0.3{\Omega}$. However, the electrode on the textile fabric are able to measure the sEMG signal without feeling of difference and this electrode shows the lower resistance of $1.03{\Omega}$ than conventional silver chloride electrode with $2.8{\Omega}$ in the condition of the very sharp curve surface (the radius of curvature is 40 mm).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.12
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• pp.1754-1760
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• 2007

To improve poor dye uptake of safflower yellow colorants, cellulose fibers were pretreated with chitosan. The effect of chitosan pretreatment on the dyeability of safflower yellow colorants to cotton, ramie, and rayon was investigated in terms of dye uptake, color, and colorfastness. Irrespective of fiber types, dye uptake increased continuously with increase in chitosan concentration. Chitosan pretreatment improved dye uptake up to 5.6 times for cotton, 7.2 times for ramie, and 3.7 times for rayon. For cotton and ramie, the shade of dyed fabric changed YR color to Y color with increase in chitosan concentration. Dyed rayon fabrics showed Y color irrespective of chitosan concentration. Shades got darker and deeper with increasing chitosan concentration. Shades of chitosan pretreated fabrics were shifted differently depending on dyeing temperature within same fabrics. In common, the color of all dyed fabrics changed to YR at 50 and $70^{\circ}C$ while Y color at 30 and $90^{\circ}C$. V and C value decreased with increase in dyeing temperature and resulted in darker and duller color, in general. Light fastness was fair while washing fastness was poor. It was confirmed that ultrasonic dyeing method enhanced dye uptake more than 30% for cotton and ramie fabrics compared to the conventional automatic machine dyeing method. However, no difference in dye uptake between two dyeing methods was found for rayon.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.2292-2299
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• 2010

The wear and abrasion mechanism of conventional PET/Cotton fabric which is used as a lining layer for thermotherapy massager was elaborately investigated in order to increase the life-span of the fabrics for Thermotherapy Massager. Based on the destruction mechanism, the feasible PET fabrics were prepared and its anti-wearing performance was evaluated. It is revealed that the wearing destruction is mainly caused by the repeat abrasion on a specific part of folded fabric as well as abrasion itself. Therefore, it is necessary that the prevention of fabric folding while massager is running is essential and the recovery from the crease on a fabric is also necessary to solve this problem. Covered elastic yarn, high twisted yarn, change of fabric structure or different fiber were utilized to prepare the possible alternatives. As a result, the anti-wearing performance of the fabrics are greatly improved to have about 2 times and 1.5 times longer life-span for the fabric with covered elastic yarn and high twisted yarn, respectively.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.78-86
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• 2006

Coffee extract dyeing on silk fabric using various mordanting agents at different mordanting condition was studied in our previous research. Coffee extract dyeing can exert beautiful colors and have several advantages over the conventional natural dyeing. Since most of natural dyes are expensive for mass production, strongly season and source dependent, and hard to store, and therefore, coffee waste was used as natural dye to create beautiful colors in this study. Coffee waste is inexpensive and easy to store, and provide a comparatively regular quality regardless of season and source. The effects of dyeing condition such as dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and liquor ratio on dyeing characteristics of silk fabrics were investigated. Coffee extract dyed silk showed brilliant colors, and the colors were different with the kind of mordant. Cu, Sn, and Al mordanted silks showed golden yellow with subtle change of hue and value, while Fe mordanted silk showed a brownish green color upon coffee extract dyeing. As the dyeing temperature increased, the dyeability generally increased in all mordanted silk fabrics except Fe mordanted silk until $45^{\circ}C$. The dyeing temperature did not affect the dyeability of Fe mordanted silk fabric. As the liquor ratio increased, the dyeability showed a gradual increase in all mordanted silk except Cu mordanted silk. Cu mordanted silk fabric showed an abrupt increase in dyeability at liquor ratio1:150. The dyeing time effect can be separated into 2 stages. During the initial half an hour, the dyeability did not change significantly, and then, increased after 45 min. dyeing time duration. A further increase in dyeing time after 45 min. did not affect the dyeing efficiency in all mordanted silk fabrics except the Cu mordanted.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2009.03a
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• pp.229-230
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• 2009

Recently the demand for wool has been gradually decreasing due to global warming, oil depletion, Coolbiz campaign to reduce CO2 emission, and preference for business casual wear, while the price for wool materials has been constantly increasing. Wool, characterized by the natural touch and unique sensibility, is considered as one of the best natural materials, including silk. For wool, currently Korea almost depends on import from foreign countries. Therefore, 100% wool products cannot be competitive in terms of pricing and current trend. To secure sustaining competitiveness in the fiber market, it is required not only to develop new wool materials that enable expression of new sensibility that cannot be expressed by conventional wool fibers, but also to pursue differentiation of fundamental sensibility and functionality by highlighting advantages for wool as a natural fiber but by reducing its disadvantages through dominant conjugation with synthetic fibers. This study attempted to improve the technology of differentiating wool-like synthetic fibers such as polyester and combine technology with sensibility through mixing with wool materials. It also aimed to develop wool-like stretch materials and pre-treating and yarn dyeing technologies that enable fabrics to main natural wool-like touch and stretch, and ultimately to develop wool mixed fabrics that have new sensibility and functionality.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.14-31
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• 2007

The Vivienne Westwood's design is divided into four eras : The 'Punk and Ethnic Style' era, The 'Feminine Style' era, The 'Eclectic Style' era and The 'Retrospective Style' era. The aesthetic characteristics of Vivienne Westwood's design vastly divided into Parody and the Punk Couture. Westwood's parody is exprssed by british materials, that is traditional British tailoring, dressmaking techniques, traditional british fabrics and her debt to the past. Also Westwood has presented the special characteristics of Punk Couture showing Punk-Style clothes by applying Couture sense to her own Pret a Porter Collection. She pursued newness breaking the conventional aesthetic consciousness through her cutting, mix and match of fabrics and cordy of punk details. Westwood pursued new aesthetics by deconstruction and destruction regulated existing ideas that had been systematized, conventionalized and standardized by history and culture. She had shown pluralistic fashion through her design that exactly reflected characteristics of the modern society demanding variety.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.17-23
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• 2009

The influence of different forming elements on the local paper structure and the related paper properties was investigated in this study. Specifically, a conventional papermaking foil system and a velocity induced drainage (VID) system were compared. The study involved the analysis of the product samples obtained from the commercial machine trials. The paper samples produced with VID forming systems showed better formation. The deterministic patter in the local structural profile map of the Foil samples indicated the structure of foil samples was more supple after forming process and then easier to be marked by various fabrics such as wet pressing fabric. The higher bulk was observed in the VID samples, which resulted in higher scattering coefficient, lower ZDT strength, and higher bending stiffness.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Intelligent Systems Conference
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• 2000.11a
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• pp.335-339
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• 2000

In the weaving process, tension control of the warp is important. The variation of the warp tension cause irregularities of the weft density and low quality of the woven fabrics. Due to the fact that the warp tension varies in depending on the difference between take-up velocity and let-off velocity, it is necessary to regulate the velocity of let-off in relation to that of take-up for keeping the warp tension. Futhermore, the diameter of warp beam changes in the weaving process. The changing diameter of warp beam cause changing inertia of warp beam and the velocity of the let-off. It makes the control of such a system more complex. In this paper, we propose a fuzzy controller for the warp tension control. From the computer simulation, it was observed that a developed fuzzy controller has a better performance than that of conventional PI controller.