• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.26 no.1
• /
• pp.61-76
• /
• 2024

The purpose of this study is the development of an experimental design that aims to implement three-dimensional fashion design by observing the human body, extracting and combining geometric shapes and forms, and focusing on attempts to decompose the geometry of the human body in art history. Considering the characteristics of fashion design, which inevitably reflect human images visually, this study considered works by deriving geometric shapes and forms of the human body and focusing on decomposition and combination to apply them to fashion design. The results obtained through the development of fashion design through decomposition and combination based on geometric human body analysis are as follows. First, geometric analysis of the human body as an object of expression continues from the history of Cubism to modern fashion design. Second, the geometric shapes of the human body that appear in contemporary fashion design maximize visual effects through three-dimensional composition, emphasizing simplicity while showing originality through various expressions. Third, when exploring the geometric shapes of a moving human body, it was possible to extract a wide variety of shapes and forms through drawing and simplifying the human body's movements. Fourth, the formative method of fashion design was introduced and used for the aesthetic combination of objects for fashion design through decomposition and combination. This study was able to show unique and diverse combinations of visually concise and ordered geometric shapes in the expression of fashion design by decomposing and combining them. The significance of these geometric forms is that they can diversify formative informativeness in the expression of fashion design with modern compositional beauty.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.25 no.4
• /
• pp.13-28
• /
• 2023

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of hippie style in emerging brands pursuing the hippie spirit, examine the changes in hippie style, and apply them to the design development process to propose a hippie style design that reflects contemporary characteristics. The research method of this study was used to grasp the characteristics and current status of hippie style based on a literature review and prior research. Through the analysis of Bode and Story mfg, a new brand that reflects the hippie spirit, the design expression methods and characteristics of modern hippie style were derived, and based on the analysis, the design of the 3D CLO virtual outfit was developed. The results of the study are as follows. First, in addition to the use of eco-friendly materials, the digital technology of the CLO 3D program was applied to the design development process, which made it possible to increase sustainability from the production process. Second, by creating a retro design centered on a striped pattern expressing freedom, revolution, and equality, and a handcrafted design based on a tie-dye pattern, the design was able to express the hippie spirit of loving nature, and through this, a new direction of eco-friendly and modern fashion design was presented.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.32 no.2
• /
• pp.215-231
• /
• 2024

The changing media landscape has diversified how and what is discussed about fashion. This study aims to examine expert discussions about fashion shows on social media from the perspective of fashion criticism. To achieve this goal objectively, a text mining program, Leximancer, was used. In total, 58 videos were collected from the panel discussion section of Showstudio from S/S 21 to S/S 24, and the results of text mining on 24,080 collected texts after refinement are detailed here. First, the researchers examined the frequency of keywords by season. This revealed that in 2021-2022, digital transformation, diversity, and fashion films are now commonly used to promote fashion collections, often replacing traditional catwalk shows. From 2023, sustainability and virtuality appeared more frequently, and fashion brands focused on storytelling to communicate seasonal concepts. In S/S 2024, the rise of luxury brand keywords and an increased focus on consumption has been evident. This suggests that it is influenced by social and cultural phenomena. Second, the overall keywords were analyzed and categorized into five concepts: formal descriptions and explanations of the collection's outfits, sociocultural evaluations of fashion shows and designers, assessments of the commerciality and sustainability of the current fashion industry, interpretations of fashion presentations, and discussions of the role of fashion shows in the future. The significance of this study lies in its identification of the specificity of contemporary fashion criticism and its objective approach to critical research.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.42 no.2
• /
• pp.251-268
• /
• 2018

This study suggests a fashion design using aesthetic characteristics of works by Kate MccGwire, a modern sculptor paying attention to soft sculpture materials such as feathers. In this research on MccGwire works, their internal meanings may be derived as the dualism of familiarity, movement and consciousness. Works also have aesthetic characteristics of overlapping, fluidity and twist. Using such characteristics, 4 one piece dresses and 2 vest dresses were made. Research findings are as follows. First, aesthetic characteristics of MccGwire works could be expanded into expressive areas of silhouettes and details in fashion. Second, visual flow and concentration could be expressed by gradual coloration of feather colors. Third, dart manipulation could be applied naturally by details and curve silhouettes of fashion design. Fourth, touch of feather material could be expressed fully by leaving the edge of garments raw. Fifth, spatiality of fashion could be implemented partially by applying decorative saddle stitching to costume design details. This study explored a potential of soft sculpture occurred during a transitional process of objet pursued by 20th century's avant-garde artists applicable to fashion design ideas that suggested methods for contemporary creative design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.35 no.6
• /
• pp.687-699
• /
• 2011

Folk costumes in East Asia are characteristic in their colors of the five-element colors based on natural colors or achromatic colors (such as white or black) that imply the beauty of nature or the beauty of naivety. The Asian look adopts forms of Asian costumes into western costumes in terms of structure, silhouette, ornament, pattern, and color; in particular, color had very limited attributes. This study is a comparative study on colors, shown in East Asian folk costumes and the Asian look. It discovered the differences of color in East Asian folk costumes and the Asian look to discuss the backgrounds of difference. For research, it simultaneously conducted literary reviews and empirical research based on the Asian look. Asian colors that appeared in some costumes of the Asian look were influenced by East Asian costumes, while the primary color of playfulness or color for low chroma or black exuding a contemporary nuance (common in the western fashion) were prevalent. This revealed that the costume that had the attribute of playfulness in terms of structure, ornament, or patterns is adopted in western fashion through the fusion of eastern forms and pastiche. Colors of the Asian look are different from those of East Asia with superficial imitation, in which all the East Asian spirits and symbolism are lost. While folk costumes of East Asia hold symbolism derived from Asian spirits, the Asian look disintegrates the ideology of East Asian costumes and replaces it with a Postmodern playfulness.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.22 no.3
• /
• pp.91-102
• /
• 2019

Tibet has a long history and many traditions that feature colorful costumes. This study analyzes the similarities and differences in the use of multicolored stripes in the Korean Saekdong (색동: stripes of many colors) and Tibetan folk costumes. The analyses were done within the framework of Tibet's cultural and religious background and the characteristics of the region's traditional costumes. For this study, literature and photographs from books and the Internet that record the history of Tibet's traditional costumes were analyzed. The results show that the use of various colorful stripes was common in the Bangjeon (帮典) apron, one of the greatest costumes in Tibetan history. A Bangjeon is made of wool of multiple colors and has horizontal lines as compared with the silk Saekdong's vertical lines. In addition, they have a multicolored striped band on the sleeves which reminds one of the traditional Korean jacket with its Saekdong sleeves. However, these multicolored stripes appear in more parts of the Saekdong (such as the hemline and front collar) when compared with contemporary Korean costumes. Moreover, the multicolored bands are noticeable in several ornaments from the time, which suggests that Tibetans and Koreans were very fond of using multicolored stripes. Costumes from the Goguryeo (高句麗) dynasty indicate that Tibetans, like the Mongols and Manchus, were very similar to Koreans as they had multicolored garments and Paji pants in common.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.45 no.2
• /
• pp.51-62
• /
• 2007

This study explicates some properties of the fabrics used in the 16th century by examining and analyzing the 90 pieces of fabric excavated from the graves of Mr. Ryu of Jinju and his wife Mrs. Park of Euiin. The fabrics were classified into silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), mixture fabric with silk and cotton(絲棉交織), cotton(棉布) etc. Compared to other contemporary fabrics excavated previously, the fabrics unearthed from the couple's graves presented very naive feelings. Patterned satin damask occupied a small portion. In the case of plain fabric, little filament silk tabby(絹) or thin filament silk tabby(細紬) was unearthed. Important data on the history of Korean costumes are provided by the noteworthy, first-ever excavation of a small cap made of complex gauze(羅) and the tiger-leopard embroidered patches called hyoongbae(胸背), which were worn on the front and back of official robes made of tabby with supplementary gold thread(金線). Only 3 pattern types could be clearly identified in form, cloud pattern, lotus and vine pattern(蓮花蔓草), and small flower and treasures pattern(七寶細花). These three patterns are very similar to those of other 16th century fabrics unearthed previously in terms of the form and arrangement of patterns.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.23 no.6
• /
• pp.76-85
• /
• 2019

is based on a true story of the first transgender individual. It portrays psychological changes visually during the protagonist's confusion with self-identity based on gender. This study analyzes gender identity in contemporary fashion intensively based on gender images and costumes appearing in the film . In the society lacking a fixed gender image, this study provides a timely insight into gender identities by analyzing the fashions depicted in the movie. The movie is a true story of the first transgender person working hard to determine his or her own gender identity. As a research method, the theoretical basis of genderless approach was established via literature review. The characteristics of genderless identity were determined by dividing the movie into established and ambiguous gender periods to analyze the comprehensive changes in costumes for comparison. Einer Wagner representing male identity portrays men's fashion whereas Lily Elbe representing female identity depicts women's fashion. While the two different genders find their places in a single body, the confusion creates genderless fashion. By dividing these phases into femininity, masculinity and genderless categories, each costume was analyzed comprehensively, and the images of relatively changing fashion were studied by altering the gender identity. Four characteristics including androgyne, rebellion, pleasure and balance were derived from the gender identity based on Fashion in .

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.46 no.1
• /
• pp.63-79
• /
• 2022

This study investigated the phenomenon of modern people enjoying tattoo culture in Korea from the perspective of post subculture. A qualitative study was conducted using both literature review and in-depth interview methods. For post-subculture perspectives, the theories of Maffesoli (2017) and Thornton (1996), which are suitable for interpreting contemporary tattoo culture, were reviewed in terms of seven concepts: sporadic network, grouping, fluid participation, temporary emotional bond, self-distinction, pursuit of underground culture, and display and concealment. Semi-structured questionnaires were constructed and administered based on the organized characteristics. Five cultural qualities of the tattoo phenomenon in Korea were derived based on post-subculture concepts. Sporadic formation is related to the pattern of inflow into tattoo culture, and "streaming" participation is based on fluid participation and temporary ties. Distinction within subculture is based on self-distinction and pursuit of underground. The costume-playing ordinary concept includes the characteristic of controlling the exposure of tattoos in society. Finally, formation of the consumer tattoo market was newly discovered in Korean tattoo culture.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.28 no.3
• /
• pp.104-121
• /
• 2024

This study examined the integration of futurist fashion in 4th-generation K-pop girl groups, focusing on their world views, music videos, and fashion images. The key aim was to identify and analyze distinctive elements of futurist fashion within K-pop. K-pop's global popularity is driven by dynamic music, choreography, and avant-garde fashion. Futurism, an art movement emphasizing technology and innovation, continues to influence contemporary fashion trends in K-pop. This study seeks to provide insights into symbolic meanings and expressions of futurist fashion in 4th generation K-pop girl groups. Groups such as Gidle, Aespa, IVE, LE SSERAFIM, and New Jeans were analyzed. Data were collected from their music videos, lyrics, and costumes, focusing on silhouette, color, material, and pattern. This study highlights the significant role of futurist fashion in K-pop, showing how 4th-generation girl groups lead in integrating these elements. This research provides valuable insights for understanding and further exploring the evolution of K-pop fashion.