• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.121-135
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• 1998

The purpose of this thesis is to study the social and cultural background and characteristic of neo-classicism which appered in the modern fashion of the pluralistic society of the latter half of 20th century to understand that the product of societh such as fashion mode reflects the situation of society and culture. For this purpose, documentary studies about the concept and background of neo-classicism, were preceded, and analyzed the occurrence background and characteristic of neo-classicism of the modern fashion after the 1980's, which showed up in post-modernism fashion. The characteristics of neo-classicism expressed in modern fashion is as follows; First, they are expressed in modern fashion in forms of simplicity by means of minimizing process of sewing or ornamenting and deletion of dart. Second, retro-style in terms of concerning of the past, is featured in various styles of Greco-roman drapery and expresed in forms of mixing clothing elements of modern and classic in modern times. Third, the trend of ecology in terms of interest of the nature and the thought that the spiritual world is more important than the material world. It is expressed by using natural elements adn natural materials, which wanted to get the nature and human into one and search for the losed nature of modern men. Fourth, the pursuit of the beauty of the human body, is expressed in forms of body-prioity style through using see-through or elastic materials, which is knit, lycra, spandex, etc. In conclusion, we can recognize that the social product reflects social and cultural situation. And the characteristic of neo-classicism has the meaning of harmonizing the human and nature and the returing the humanity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.71-80
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• 2001

Since the beginning of the 90's, Fashion shows appear to be a type of performance form of art combining with other areas to visually entertain the viewers. This can be explained by the modern tendency to escape from society which requires formality and complicated lifestyles. Fashion shows take place in a scene Influenced by the idea of post-modernism which redefines the definition of space. A church, old factory, unoccupied ground, subway stations, or even place like a waste disposal are used as a setting. The stage set is no longer the T shape run way and the procinium arch has disappeared. The gap between audience and stage has diminished and theatrical element is added to the fashion performance by using viewers living and working environments as setting of the show. The human relation with machine based on the cutting edge technology such as the stage automation, robots and mist making sprinkler system introduces new elements with spontaneity and detailed planning in the stage performance. Music also plays an Important role in attracting viewers. The sound track covers house music to techno music. Instead of music being abstract, folks orchestral music, choirs, piano. even live concert performed by pop artist provide the liveliness of the fashion show. And the catwalk itself is a performance. Model needs to be well trained as the capable talent who can handle sensitive gestures, facial expressions, dancing and choreography. The improvisatorial interaction between audience and model lead to audience participation. Models now range from pop star, ordinary people, handicapped people, to elderly and so on. John Galliano introduced the theatrical factors for the fashion show and Alexander Mcqueen approached the fashion show as the visual art of communication. Hussein Chalayan utilized high technology skewing futurism as if in a magic show. Today the Fashion show tends to be a total performance which includes audience participation, impromptu, and that break the limitation that fashion shows previously had. This will lead the fashion industry in opening new horizon of its own.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.1-13
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to review changes of gender identity of men as a sexual role changes and their cognition on fashion and to analyze changes and features of their fashion required in the diversified era and suggest implications for future men's fashion design. To understand a correlation between a change of men's gender styles and fashion and aesthetic features and differences by gender style, this study analyzed significant brands of the men's design market. The results of this study are as followings. First, metrosexual and uebersexual were mixed in the 1990's and the 2000's. The ratio of uebersexual in the 1990's was higher as three times as metrosexual. On the other hand, the ratio of metrosexual in the 2000's was higher than uebersexual by about 3.5%. It implicates that there were significant changes in design of men's clothes between the 1990's and the 2000's. Second, aesthetic properties and differences of metrosexual and uebersexual obtained from the survey. Metrosexual fashion uses almost all details and has no limit in using materials and accessories. The other side, uebersexual fashion rarely has details. In conclusion, this study showed that the relationship between male and fashion on the social and cultural phenomena. which have been recognized that there is a low correlation, is being newly established as a sexual role changes by gender.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.103-116
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• 2010

Recently, the art of the Latin America Culture is being actively introduced into our country. Many concepts in the fashion field contain Latin American culture and their influence is growing. This present study, based on a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture, is an attempt to expand the expression of fashion design and explore the use of works of art in fashion. The case study is on Frida Kahlo (1907~1954), who was a Mexican woman painter who gives us some inspiration in contemporary fashion design. The scope of this case study investigates the Haute couture and the Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2009 which were greatly influenced by Frida Kahlo and analyzes through the formative elements of dress, color, form, pattern and material. Frida Kahlo was a painter whose composition of surrealism held the world of life and death, pain and pleasure, love and parting, thought and freedom, and tradition and modern, etc. As a design inspiration, her influence reaches into accessories, and hairstyles, as well as the Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter. This current study for the correct understanding of the new culture and the introduction of art into the fashion design might be helpful in making fashion a work of art and in extending the expression of the fashion design concept which is based on commercial art.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.5
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• pp.122-132
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• 2016

In today's society, being considered ecological in fashion design and having a cultural and humanistic approach is important. Using a technological approach, the fold concept was applied to understand and analyze the ecological characteristics of a modern fashion aesthetic design. The concept of 'Ecological Aesthetic Design', which we discuss in this study, is part of human nature, and the design concept is used to consider the relationship between the man and the environment to the design of Victor Papanek. From the perspective of interrelation between the components of an ecosystem, the possibility of the fold's application to ecological aesthetic design can be summarized by wholeness, biodiversity, evolution, homeostasis, and circularity. The concept of the fold is revealed mainly through three types of characteristics: indeterminate complexity, potential continuity, and decentralized interaction relationship. Based on the characteristics of the concept presented earlier, this study conducted a case review by distinguishing contemporary fashion that applied the complex, various, and indeterminate fold concepts into flexible transformation, continuity, and complementary circularity. This study was interpreted from the ecological aesthetic point of view based on the nature of the contingent folds presented before applying modern fashion concepts. It focused on the morphological side, and excluded the material aspects of the case study in order to examine the complex, diverse and content aspects. The result of the study is as follows. The study of the research areas that help the understanding of the changing fashion phenomenonneeds to be encouraged, and there should be a new research category, which can contribute to the ecological aesthetic design concept conversion.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.101-110
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• 2005

Vivienne Westwood could be placed in a unique position in the contemporary fashion design. She has never belonged in a core group of mainstream fashion designer but not been always in an outsider position. She got from mainstream fashion designer circles enormous appreciation, even established fashion industry was influenced by her fashion design. She began her fashion design with rebellious T-shirts like 'destroy' T-shirt, chicken-bone T-shirt, and nipple-zipper T-shirt, all of which revealed her disgust against establishment. All these T-shirts testify her total negation tendency in her youth. However, she did not continue to keep such a kind of total negation attitude against establishment In 1980s she changed her political attitude towards establishment, and this change also found a reflection in her fashion design. In her pirate-collection the dark image of her fashion in the 1970s changed into a totally different bright image with full of gold colour. Although this collection had radiated brightness, it contained still outsider character from mainstream fashion design. The following fashion design in 1980s and 1990s evolved further on the line of Pirate-collection, but they continued to contain certain outsider characteristics. Vivienne Westwood kept some kind of anti-establishment attitude, and this attitude more or little came to the surface of her design. She was always political and critical to the establishment. In 2005, in her 64, she designed a liberty T-shirt, which showed her political attitude and her engagement in social issues. Also it showed the change from the early total negation to the constructive critical affirmation. In this paper the relation between the fashion design of Vivienne Westwood and her political attitude and the influence of her political attitude to her fashion design is analyzed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.8 s.99
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• pp.15-29
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• 2005

In these days, T-shirt is not only the simple wearing goods but also the suggestive communication, which is not showed outward as well as being intended. Also, it indicates expression of contemporary sensitive living, expression of substantial oneself, and the effective commercial promotion fer advertising fashion brand and promoting the object's sale. Following the above concept, the aim of this study is to understand the outstanding tendency of ' The T-shirt one-point graphic's functions and visual image ', which is appeared after 2001 in the fashion industry's commercial aspects. The visual image's applicative rate of the T-shirt one point graphic is the following; The best applicative rate on T-shirt one- point graphic is the visual image using the mix & match technique shown 42.8 percent applicative rate. The second one is the visual image using the typography shown 38.7 percent. The third one is the visual image using the animals and plants shown 8.5 percent. The fourth one is the visual image using the person's character shown 3.8 percent. The fifth one is the visual image using the geometry shown 2.4 percent. The least one is the visual image using the cartoon character shown 1.6 percent. On the other hand, another important function of t-shirt one-point graphic is the following; 1, The essential function as t-shirt design factor. 2, The promotional function as brand image marketing and brand advertisement. 3. The communicative function as discriminative strategy of object. 4. The achievable function as value added goods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.8
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• pp.87-98
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• 2002

Recently, we consist in the crucial juncture have to develope culture goods which is worth standing for our nation's endemism. In this vein, this study tried to reproduce and apply it to the present time by the consideration of various elements such as the kind, the use and the fabrication of sewing craft-works was beloved in women's quarter called Kyubang in the Chosun dynasty. With this, this study was designed to develope craft-works which can make an appeal to foreigners with the merits between contemporary factor and traditional factor. The findings of this study were as follows; First, since economic system in the Chosun dynasty was based on home handicrafts and self-sufficiency, it was a commonplace of the Chosun dynasty that home industry such as sewing, spinning and sericulture was thriving among all the women without social ladder. And also, since women of the day were governed by confucian tradition and moral obligation, they mainly have to live in women's quarter called Kyubang restricted to visitors. For the reasons, Wives of the time have no choice but to spend their time by sewing in the promotion of virtues for woman. In additions, they made an effort to pray for the longevity, the wealthy and the fertility of their family members. Second, the sewing instruments is necessary for women's sewing. And also, since sewing instruments was considerably scientific, efficient in those shape and structure, this instruments could save wives a lot of trouble. Third, since many people were convinced of the functions as practicality as well as fanciness, the sewing craft-works were very useful to them in leading their daily life. Fourth, the reappeared works were a total of 22, and the applied works were a total of 17.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.72-85
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• 2008

With the new millennium setting in, our society is plowing its way through more drastically changing currents than ever. Nowadays, many people believe that high tech such as the Internet, digital civilization, the IT revolution, bio-industry, and the genome project, that has brought humans material prosperity, is the right change in direction. However, the more we adopt high tech into our lives, the more we desire high touch in order to achieve a balance. In other words, we need something to act as a ballast to stabilize our minds. As such, the more high tech develops, the more individuals miss and search for tools that appeal to their emotions. Because of this, although high touch is an opposite concept to high tech, it coexists with high tech, and it is defined as "human contact of high sensitivity that stimulates the emotion of humans". High Touch, a term which originated from "High Tech, High Touch", a book written by American futurist John Naisbitt, refers to human contact that makes human life richer, forminga deep impression on individuals and providing comfort. As such, high touch, which is gaining significant attention in modern society, is a phenomenon occurring throughout politics, society, culture, art, and religion, together with high tech. Through high touch, modern people must realize how to understand and accept a modern society that is dominated by the age of technology and in which direction they should head. Under this background, this study has the following objectives: to interpret the concept of high touch in the age of high tech in association with formative art and fashion, and through various media examine the desire for expression that may stimulate emotion in modern people, which is required by the high tech-prevalent modern society. It further analyzes how high touch is reflected in modern fashion and presents the direction future fashion should head in.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.1-21
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to typify femininity and masculinity represented in mainstream women's and men's fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 and infer sexual ideology appearing in contemporary Korean society by content analysis with the view of plural sexuality. For the content analysis total 259 editorial fashion photography was analyzed. As the result, 5 femininities and 5 masculinities were typified, and then sexual discourse was inferred out of the frequency of each type and texts with the images. On the basis of previous studies and historical considerations of this topic, the types of sexuality represented in mainstream fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 were classified as follow.: in women's fashion magazines Traditional Femininity and Androgynous Femininity were almost similarily dominant sexuality, and Glamor Femininity, Babydoll Femininity, and Genderless sexuality were alternative. Meanwhile, in men's fashion magazines Traditional Masculinity formed clear dominant sexuality, and Macho Masculinity, Androgynous Masculinity, Adolescent Masculinity, and Genderless sexuality were alternatives. In addition, Androgynous Masculinity in women's fashion magazines occupied the highest frequency, while Glamor Femininity in men's fashion magazines did so. From this sexual discourses represented in mainstream fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 are as follow.: First, mainstream fashion in Korea sticks to the modern values preserving traditional sexual ideology even in this postmodern period of the former 21C. Second, Androgynous Femininity as another dominant femininity with Traditional Femininity connotes the change of conception of femininity in Korean society. Third, Androgynous Masculinity to females is preferred, while femininity to males is still regarded as fetish or adorned object. Fourth, the appearance of various alternative sexualities leads to pluralization of sexuality, and then fashion gradually codifies youthfulness and feminine values, such as body and sexual desire more than before.