• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.65 no.3
• /
• pp.47-61
• /
• 2015

Dress functions as a clear boundary between gender differences In the past. However dress in the 21st century, due to movement of feminism during the 1960's, advance of mass media and the influence of postmodernism, the boundary of gender differences has been blurred. Especially in men's fashion, where there was no little changes in traditional menswear, it is noteworthy that there appears some changes. The research about gender has developed to queer theory, subjected on gender itself, founded on the gender diversity. The purpose of the study is to conduct the implied meanings of dress in contemporary society, when gender diversity has been expressed in men's fashion, and to review the characteristics of contemporary men's fashion through the collections and advertisements of post 2000's as well as internet sites. This research is based on theory of Judith Butler, which is on the center of feminism and queer theory. Homosexual expressions which are presented in male clothing and advertisement produce rejection of the dichotomous view of gender concept and allowing of individual gender identity expression.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.30 no.6
• /
• pp.898-918
• /
• 2022

Contemporary fashion research has paid increasing attention to the sublimity in the context of postmodernism. Sublimity is considered essential in contemporary fashion design as it arouses complex emotions which verbal expression cannot describe. Therefore, contemporary fashion designs need to be interpreted in terms of the sublimity. Through a detailed review of literature, the present study discusses Kantian and Lyotardian sublimity as main theories representing conventional and cotemporary concepts of sublimity. This paper selected five Korean fashion designers who won the prize of Samsung Design Fund from 2006 to 2019 and actively introduce their works every year. Images were collected to analyze their designs introduced from 2018 S/S to 2019F/W at their website. In addition, formative and color characteristics were analyzed to identify the changing features of s sublimity. Major findings of analyses are as follows. First, all designers' collections reflected both male and female sublimity with the respect to its formative characteristics. Color characteristics of sublimity indicated that Jeong, Wook Jun's collections represented features of male sublimity and other designers works showed elements of female sublimity. Essentially, the typical contemporary concept of the sublimity was found in the designs of Seo, Hye In. Consequently, female sublimity is more inclusive than male sublimity, while being opened to otherness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.2
• /
• pp.15-33
• /
• 2008

Continuity and discontinuity is a relative concept, and there are various categories of the continuity and discontinuity in our circumference. Generally, characteristics of postmodernism including between the difference and the variety have being regarded as a discontinuity. Concept of the continuity includes between the quantitative continuity and the qualitative continuity qualitative continuity has organic characteristic, which encourages creating something permanently through the flowing of the time. Therefore, this thesis has studied like this complex social condition and various relationships expressed in modern fashion focusing on permanently creative movements and behaviors equal to the 'continuance' theory of Herni Bergson and 'continuity' theory of Jill Deleuze. This thesis classifies characteristics of the qualitative continuity into spatiotemporal and spatial continuity, and subdivides into 3 sets: perceptual continuity, spatial continuity, transferring continuity of physical experience, immaterial informational continuity, and fluid continuity with environment. Continuous viewpoint, which accepts the existing elements and allows them to flow liberally, should be present more appropriative thinking direction in explaining the complex situation expressed in the modern fashion, rather than discontinuous viewpoints focused on the only changing moment.

• Journal of Science of Art and Design
• /
• v.12
• /
• pp.65-96
• /
• 2007

Today, the modern art is extremely diverse. It is denying its own boundary through chaos, extreme, abjection. In fact the diversity of the modern art can be best described as questioning and challenging to the essence of the reality, rather than the artistic pursuit of the beauties. The pursuit of the reality has been a long lasting discourse since the ancient. Through the history, the reality (referent) and representation (image) has been complementing and disposing each other in a relationship of a meaningful construction until the modern times. The limit of modernistic self-reference and the emergence of the figure leads to the emergence of Post-modernism in a trend of experimenting new visual arts. The return to the figure is clearly distinguished from existing representation's system and it brought new meanings to approaches and interpretations of the reality. In the case of Pop arts of 1960's and the following the modern sculptures, which is covered by this thesis, I put an emphasis on the diversification of those via changed strategies on the reality. In a situation where the reality is dictated by signified, the modern arts can no longer stay on a classic concept of representation, rather it pursuits new system and diverse strategies. I provide three types of strategic characters of the reality and the diversification of reality: the transition of the reality. These three types can be used as a frame work, which is supporting new aspects of the modern arts in reflecting on existing system. Therefore, the reason of categorizing is to distinguish modernistic arts and post modernistic arts, and to propose new post-modernistic discourses. Adapting J.F, Lyotard's view, absence is used to trace down the diversification of the reality thorough the sublime on the deconstruction of the mega discourses and the relationship of representation. Based on H. Faster's theory of the appropriation, the appropriation is used to exemplify the strategies of visual arts are in variations and being delayed. Lastly, in the transition, J. Baudrilliard's simulacre is used in terms of the concept of post modernistic representation. Based on the core of his theories, the deconstruction of existing concepts and simulation as the post modernistic representation, and the world of hyperreality based on simulacre are explained. These allows us to deny that representation is the expression of reality through mimesis. My aim is to work on the definition of the arts and representation in the modern era, and go further from there in order to clarify meaning and extension of the modern sculptures. Now two artists are reviewed based on their own art works: George Seagal; Jeff Koons. They are selected among numerous artists from the Post Modern era. Epic contents and emphasis on daily life of Seagal's works show good examples to artists from Pop Arts and following time period and may have served as a start point for Postmodernism. Indeed, he tried to show a newly defined relationship between art works and daily life experience. On the other hand, J.Koons used the strategies of fabrication and appropriation, which shows characteristics of the postmodernism. Through his four individual exhibitions, he shows the diversification of the reality based on art works as fetishistic merchandises, and newly defined concept of Ready-made since M Duchamp. Lastly, the diversification of the reality is analyzed again in context of my art works. I focused on the return to the figure among a variety of trends of late 20 th century modern sculpture. It showed the post modernistic point of view on the reality. Post modernistic diversified strategies are adopted as a method of distinguishing each art works via the diversification of the reality. This is the result of contemporary social and cultural situations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.29 no.3_4 s.141
• /
• pp.403-413
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study is to interpret the elegant dressing visualized in modem fashion on the basis of the concept of elegance in dress and its aesthetic characteristics from the holistic viewpoint. Elegance in dress is based upon the idea of aristocratic taste cultivated by good breeding, considering from the documentary study. It is expressed visually through not only the carefully contrived dress but also a sort of aura of dressed body with skillful ease. The aesthetic values of elegance consist of luxury, nobility, refinement, femininity, harmony. To grasp the trends of elegant styles since 1990s, contents analysis of the articles related to elegance in Vogue has been done. As a result, they have been classified into four groups of elegant styles which are Classic, Elaborate Couture, Soft Minimalism, Kitsch Elegance. Classic Elegance and Elaborate Couture Elegance represent traditional ones with conservative viewpoint. Soft Minimalism Elegance is a modem version of elegance. According to postmodernism as a open system, even kitsch has been refined to keep accompany with elegance fur aristocratic taste of high class. As a result of this study, in fashion from the 16th century to the first half of 16th century, elegance has been one of the significant aesthetic categories, resulting from the absolute domination of taste of high society. However in the end of 20th century it seems to start to fade in fashion trends such as mass fashion, youth culture, casual fashion etc. Rather, it can be thought that elegance has been expressed as one of the aesthetic values in dress, by virtue of its value of high class as well as its conservative stability.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.50
• /
• pp.85-96
• /
• 2000

The study is aimed to analyse social and cultural background and to compare the changes of the cosmetic culture in Korea and the western countries accompanied by the developemnt os the cosmetic industry in the 20th century. The cosmetic culture of Korea has kept on changing adopting the new western style make up, These changes were very closely related with the current sociocultural environments and the developments of the cosmetic industry. The analysis and comparison of Korean cosmetic culture and that of Western countries can be summarized as following: Fistly the cosmetic culture of korea came out after Korean War through the improt of western movies. Secondly at the beginning of accommodation of the western concept of beauty the standards of beauty were confused with that of traditional make up. Thirdly in terms of the history of costumes in the western cosmetic culture the trend was feminine and curve lineal style in the 1910s straight and young style in the 1920s Young elegant curve lineal style and straight-line style replaced among themselves in every 10 years and the cycle became more rapid after the 1970s and there were diversity in the cosmetic culture affected by the postmodernism Fourthly the cosmetic culture of :total fashion" was taken into consideration. Fifthly the cosmetic culture of "total fashion" was taken into consideration. fifthly the make up of Korean and that of western countries are not only a way to express of aesthetic desire for beauty but sanitary management and it is a kind of an expansion of value for management for an inner self. Now is the time to refuse the attitude of accommodation of the western cosmetic culture without any consideration. We need to rediscover our traditional cosmetic culture and cultural distinctiveness and try to mix them with the western cosmetic culture in order to develop our own peculiar style which will be able to Korean design remain in the international stage and grow further.d grow further.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.5 no.2
• /
• pp.68-77
• /
• 2005

In contemporary advertising market, one of main trends is to speak surrealistic visual language which provides 'enjoyable spectacles'. Specially, in the beginning of 21st century, there discovered more and more exhibitions and discourses about surrealism reinterpreted from the viewpoint of postmodernism. Surrealism as a creative style of expression based upon free association, has been a great inspiration for fashion ads for commercial communication as well as fashion design since its origin. However, there has been ignored the idea of analyzing surrealistic image expressed in fashion ads in spite of their flood. Accordingly, the purpose of this study is to grasp its cultural meaning through analyzing aesthetic characteristics of surrealistic image expressed in fashion ads. It will provide a better understanding of surrealistic image in fashion ads reflecting popular taste and preference directly as popular visual culture, focusing on post modern context. A case study of surrealistic fashion ads limits to TV or print commercials and digital ads as image ads stimulating visual expressions. The Results can be summarized as follows. Surrealism is an avant garde style which deconstructs the established meaning system as well as the existing formalistic order and then put them together in the frame of 'dream' and 'unconsciousness'. Defamiliarization questioning the whole edifice of representation can be adapted to. By means of paradox and metaphor, unfamiliar new visual world can be represented. The plastic characteristics of surrealistic image in fashion ads are founded as surrealistic styling of time and space, distortion of object by methods of automatism, depaysement, parody and trompe-l'oeil which bring about the deconstruction of gestalt. Aesthetic values of surrealistic fashion ads appear as dualistic representation, allegoric symbolism, fantastic romanticism. Ultimately they lead to marvelous. mysterious, humorous visual effects. Foster reinterpreted these effects of surrealism from Freud's 'Uncanny Concept'. 'Uncanny' means the phenomenon recurring to familiar being defamiliarized by repression. Surrealistic fashion ads strengthen this shocking effect more and more dramatically in company with our post modern needs for fantastic adventure and thrilling spectacle. It can be thought that surrealistic fashion ads reflects uncanny as an alternative which can relieve us of our stress and anxiety and which realize our potential desire in contemporary post industrial stage.

• Journal of Korean Theatre Studies Association
• /
• no.52
• /
• pp.159-188
• /
• 2014

Under the influence of postmodernism, modern writing tends to refuse an immediate conveyance of messages achieved by linear, unified writing. Such writing does not attempt any social participation and has no leading ethics, offering diverse perspectives. It simply relies on material property ignoring the 'here and now'. This discussion depends on the sensuous immediacy of works that are pure and uninterpretable, causing the "death of author" phenomena. Although the time was late, since the 1990s, discussion and work on deconstructive theater has been executed in the Korean theater world. This deconstructive work was achieved when lineal narratives were shattered through the shocking insertion of fragmentary episodes and imagery. Moreover, such plays were shocking presentations of severance in conversation; lack of communication; loss of pride and love; and a world devastated by violence and madness. In the 2000s, such a movement helped form a new paradigm in the theater through reinterpretation and parody of traditional dramas, while drawing general attention to postmodern theater. However, as the problems of postmodern theater are perceived through study, the limit of plays with a postmodern tendency is pointed out: such plays merely display 'deconstruction'. This thesis will examine reflective thought on postmodern theater seeking "deconstruction without alternatives" and the aesthetic concept of "le politique" by Jacques Ranciere. It will also look through the overlap of images as interval-estrangement, "lettre morte", and simulacre representing mise-en-scene aesthetics weaving "political writing". This study is meaningful in that it tries to extend the new aesthetic horizon of Korean theater, examining in 2009 and by Koh Sun-Woong in 2011, directed by Park Chung-Hee in 2010 and directed by Park Keun-Hyung in 2009.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
• /
• v.24 no.3
• /
• pp.15-29
• /
• 2015

Social and cultural impact of postmodernism in the seek for diversity and to respect the individual's personality and character was the center of human-centered thinking. This also affects the design area, as well as architecture, interior design. It is because of interactive interior design that reflects the lives and relationships with people. Thus, in modern society, people to meet the diverse needs have created a third space. Today's commercial space in the flow to a variety of users and is trying to provide comfort. To go to stores often offer lifestyle and proceeding to the next stage of life. Space for the creative force is trying to become getting better space. Collaboration is refer to phenomenon that two or more objects meet to collaborate. Collaboration is can be classified of space, art, low/high, high concept and star collaboration. And this study has been studied mainly collaboration. Space collaboration is can be classified of experiential, the third space, brand passes and landmark. Space collaboration elements rearranged to the standards of interior design theory, analysis, and marketing of space, commercial space, with previous studies of the spatial elements were extracted. The purpose of this study in the field of interior design space analysis method for the verification of collaboration theory is that to develop. Thus, the space collaboration has been developed to fit the field of interior design, and commercial interior spaces will be helpful for applying.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.11 no.1
• /
• pp.48-60
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the romantic costume style which has become a big trend before and after the 21th century. For this purpose, I examined the development plans and characteristics of women's costume in France in the Romantic period from the 1820s to the 1850s and analyzed the aesthetic characteristics of romantic costume style The aesthetic characteristics of romantic style in the 19th century were defined by the feminine and elegant beauty, exoticism, and sensuality. Since the 1990s, the characteristics are classified into Feminine & Elegant Style, Ethnic & Fusion Style, and Sensual Style. Feminine & Elegant Style is characterized by delicate, splendid lace and frill decorations that have become more ornamental and technical since the 1990s. They create greater romance and express gentler and more elegant femininity away from the artificial silhouette. Ethnic & Fusion Style use more diverse ethnic patterns, colors, accessories, and details since the 1990s and shows more varieties and creativity in convergence with modern fashion. Sensual Style exposes the physical curve of female body. In the 19th century, cuffs and collars were exaggerated and shoulders were exposed for sensuality. After the 1990s, however, see-through materials have been used to show the beauty of natural physical curves or corsets have been worn as the outerwear. Studying romantic costume style, which arose as a concept of postmodernism, the cultural ideology that exists as a breakthrough of our time, is signified by the understanding of the latest cultural phenomenon and fashion trends.