• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.113-119
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• 2016

The evolution of spinning technology was focused on improving productivity with good quality of yarns. More detail spinning technology according to mixing of various kinds of fibre materials on the air vortex spinning system is required for obtaining good quality yarns. This paper investigated the physical properties of air vortex yarns compared with ring and compact yarns using PTT/tencel/cotton fibres. It was observed that unevenness of air vortex yarns was higher than those of ring and compact yarns, which resulted in low tenacity and breaking strain of air vortex yarns. Initial modulus of air vortex yarns was higher than those of ring and compact yarns. Yarn imperfections of air vortex yarns such as thin, thick and nep were much more than those of ring and compact yarns. These poor yarn qualities of air vortex yarn were attributed to the fasciated yarn structure with parallel fibres in the core part of the air vortex yarn. However, yarn hairiness of air vortex yarns was less and shorter than those of ring and compact yarns. Thermal shrinkage of air vortex yarns were higher than that of ring yarns, which was caused by sensible thermal shrinkage of PTT fibres on the bulky yarn surface and core part of air vortex yarns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.305-314
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• 2016

This paper investigated the applicable possibility of PTT and wool staple fibers to the air vortex system as high quality yarns for a high emotional and comfort garment. It was found that the tactile hand of vortex yarn knitted fabrics was harsher than ring and compact yarns knitted fabrics. It was observed that formability and sewability of air vortex yarn knitted fabrics seemed worse than ring and compact yarns due to low tensile and compressional resilience and high bending and shear hysteresis of air vortex yarn knitted fabrics. It revealed that wicking and drying rates of air vortex yarn knitted fabric were better than ring and compact yarns; in addition, the heat keepability of vortex yarn knitted fabric was higher than ring and compact yarns due to low thermal conductivity and max heat flow rate ($Q_{max}$). Any difference of thermal shrinkage between air vortex and ring yarn knitted fabrics was not shown, but pilling characteristic of air vortex yarn knitted fabric was superior. However, it was shown that wicking, drying, thermal property and pilling characteristics of air vortex yarn knitted fabric were superior due to air vortex yarn structure with parallel fibers in the core part and periodical and fasciated twists in the sheath part of the yarns.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1020-1029
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• 2015

This paper investigated the wearing performance of knitted fabrics made of air vortex yarns using PTT/tencel/cotton fibres in comparison with ring and compact yarns for emotional garment. Wicking property of knitted fabric made of MVS yarns was worse than those by ring and compact yarns, however, drying property of knitted fabric made of MVS yarns was better than those by ring and compact yarns, which was explained as more water vapor transport due to larger openness between fibres in the MVS yarns than those in the ring and compact yarns. Thermal conductivity of knitted fabric made of MVS was lower than those of ring and compact yarns and maximum heat flow(Q_max) at the transient state of MVS knitted fabric was lower than those of ring and compact yarns, which may be attributed to MVS yarn structure that has parallel fibres in the core part of the yarn and fasciated fibre bundles on the sheath part with roughness on the yarn surface. However, pilling of MVS knitted fabric was better than those by ring and compact yarns, which was caused by less and shorter hairy fibres protruded from MVS yarn surface than those of ring and compact yarns. It was observed that tactile hand of MVS yarn knitted fabrics was stiffer than those of ring and compact yarns knitted fabrics. It was explained by low extensibility and compressibility and high bending and shear rigidities of the MVS yarn knitted fabrics, which resulted in bad wearing performance of MVS knitted fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.6
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• pp.877-884
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• 2015

Polytrimethylene Terephthalate (PTT) is an eco-fiber with good elastic properties; however, it requires more detailed studies related to spinnability according to blending of various kinds of fibers. The evolution of spinning technology was focused on improved productivity with good quality; in addition, air vortex spinning was recently invented and applied on the spinning factory as the facility with good productivity and quality. More detail spinning technology according to the blending of various kinds of fibers on the air vortex spinning system is required to obtain good quality yarns for high emotional fabrics. In this paper, the physical properties of air vortex, compact and ring staple yarns using PTT/wool/modal blend fibers were investigated with yarn structure to promote high functional PTT that includes fabrics for high emotional garments. Unevenness of air vortex yarns was higher than those of compact and ring yarns; in addition, imperfections were greater than those of compact and ring yarns, which was attributed to a fascinated vortex yarn structure. Tenacity and breaking strain of air vortex yarns were lower than those of compact and ring yarns, caused by higher unevenness and more imperfections of air vortex yarns compared to compact and ring yarns. Vortex yarns showed the highest initial modulus and ring yarns showed the lowest ones which results in a stiff tactile feeling of air vortex yarns in regards to the initial modulus of yarns. Dry and wet thermal shrinkages of air vortex yarns were lower than ring yarns. Good shape retention of vortex yarns was estimated due to low thermal shrinkage.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.84-97
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• 2017

Water vapor and thermal transmission properties of high emotional garments are important to evaluate wear comfort; in addition, the measuring methods of these properties are also critical for breathable and warm suit fabrics. In this study, the water vapor and thermal properties of composite yarn fabrics made of CoolMax, Tencel, and Bamboo fibers with filaments were measured and compared according to the measuring method. Water Vapor Transmittance (WVT) of the fabric woven by the sheath/core composite yarn in the warp direction was the highest due to the small staple fiber volume in the sheath/core yarn structure and high air voids in the sheath/core yarn fabrics. This property was also the highest in fabrics woven by bamboo staple yarns in the weft direction, and was the lowest on hi-multi filament fabrics. However, water vapor resistance ($R_{ef}$) of these fabrics by KSK ISO 11092 showed the opposite results to the water vapor transmittance method ($CaCl_2$ method); in addition, its correlation coefficient was low. The correlation coefficient between $R_{ef}$ and the drying rate was 0.719; therefore, the measurement mechanism of $R_{ef}$ is analogous to the drying property measurement. The thermal conductivity of the fabrics woven with compact staple yarn showed a high value; however, the hi-multi filament fabric showed low thermal conductivity. Therefore, fiber characteristics affect thermal properties more than yarn structure. The correlation between thermal property and moisture transport was also low. This study showed that: water vapor transmittance was active at the loose yarn structure, dry heat transport was vigorous at the compact yarn structure, and heat transport was affected more by fiber characteristics than yarn structure. In conclusion, sheath/core composite yarns were relevant to the high absorptive cool suit along with siro-fil and CoolMax/Bamboo staple yarns that were relevant to the heat diffusive cool suit.