• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.23
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• pp.5-23
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• 1994

This research has been made through analyzing clothes of human dresses and ornaments appeared in the Buddhist pictures which were drawn at the times of the koryo Dynasty. Clothes of the Korea Dynasty could be analyzed as below : First, as for Turban (Doogun), common people used Ogun, Doogun, Byunsangmo and Chaek. For clothes, the style of the era of the ear of the Three-Dynasty. That is , they wore long shirts with narrow sleeves and narrow trousers and skirts. However, around the years of 1320, shirts had no more belt but became to show a kind of ribbon which is called as Gorum , and length of shirts was a bit shortened between hip and waist lines. Second, as for officials clothes, a kind of Rhangkan was used through the Dynasty but after the years of 1300, Wonryukwan was also used. In the clothes, Bangshimkikryung was used and the royals wore full-dress attire which looks like a long gown. Under the full-dress , we can see two different which seems to be a kind of present under-water. Third, in public clothes, same type of Danryung. Holl, belt and shoes were used throughout the Korea Dynasty. In addition Line (Yeon) was remarkably used skirt was dressed under Danryung by middle of the Dynasty the skirt was replaced with trousers. For Bokdoo, Jeonkak bokdoo was mostly used at the beginning of the Dynasty , but in the end of the Dynaty a lowr-flap bokdoo was in the main current. Meanwhile , we can see that the Korea Dynasty had its own in dependence in the clothes although the Dynasty was much affected by the Chines Song Dynasty System. We can hardly find a Mogrian cloethes style in the Korea-Dynasty clothes. Fourth, in Queen's clothes, banbi and pyo were used and sleeves were decorated with birds feather throughout the Dynasty. Lastly , famer's clothes are quite similar to those of the Chinese Song and won Dynasties and a decorative line was used in official clothes. These facts make us have a presumption of our Dongii culture might be conveyed to the Chinese in the ancient times but much more research is needed to clarify.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.27-38
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• 2008

In the 21st century, the development of technology overturned the paradigm of the entire society and culture, and the term 'high-tech' became generally accepted around the world by the momentous advances of technology. The purpose of this study is to define the concept of high-tech fashion by clarifying the characteristics of high-tech fashion, and to propose the proper approach toward the coming fashion. Hussein Chalayan shows the experimental and futuristic designs based on the cultural context of architecture and sculpture. Moreover, the scope of this study has been limited into Hussein Chalayan's recent works after the year 2000 up to 2007. High-tech architecture has been, in some ways, a response to pow technology a new aesthetic in contrast with standard modern architecture. High-tech architecture aimed to achieve a new industrial aesthetic, spurred on by the renewed faith in the progression of technology. However, no matter how prominent the industrial look appeared, the functional element of modern architecture has been very much retained. The characteristics of high-tech architecture that had been extracted by analyzing the antecedent studies were: technocism, transformability, and dynamism. Furthermore, the characteristics of high-tech fashion has been explained based on the characteristics of high-tech architecture. First, technocism is expressed either by the new technologized materials, and advanced digital technology. Second, transformability is expressed in the transformable clothing, which performs various functions. Third, dynamism is displayed in dynamic forms influenced by the technology of engineering. High-tech will be the dominant influence in fashion, and the designers will be enamored with the technologies of the new millenium. Architecture and fashion share the characteristics of high-tech, and their common cultural features is confirmed again.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.31
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• pp.35-64
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• 2013

This thesis seeks to compare China's Jing-ju and Japan's Kabuki for their common aspects and differences and examine how they are performed on the stage. Jing-ju is often called as Beijing Opera to refer to a musical play completed during the mid-Ching era and developed around Beijing. Jing-ju is composite arts of music, dance and play which are remarkable in its strict patterns in move along with luxurious costume and heavy make-up. Kabuki which was developed during the Edo-period, is expressional arts also structured with music, dance and play coupled with extravagant costume as well as even more strictly controlled move and emphasis on the beauty of form. The two plays seem very similar to each other in their time setting to gain popularity or features of play. It may look obvious that Jing-ju which had developed earlier than Kabuki, affected the latter's formation. However, general social practices or cultural trends in China and Japan at the time of their development also influenced literature and arts thus affecting play contents and performance expressions. Although the two plays have similar stage structure, they developed in different ways with detailed differences and actors' performance on the stage, way of using a stage and other ways of directing play are largely distinctive from each other. If a play's primary goal is to gain recognition of audience and draw their positive response, the relationship between play and stage becomes essential. With this understanding, this thesis aims to identify where such similarities and differences between the two plays are from by comparing historical background, stage structural development and directing manner development at a basic level.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.39-56
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to observe the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design, examine the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design in the collections of Jacquemus, and analyze their internal meanings. For research, observations were made based on the concepts and expressive characteristics of Deconstruction through prior research and literary review, and analysis was conducted focusing on the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction. The scope of analysis included a total of 605 photographs collected from a total of 17 season collections of Jacquemus from the 2013 S/S to the 2021 S/S season. The results are as follows. First, the Neo-Deconstruction of Jacquemus expresses the youth culture using bright images such as diverse colors and patterns with 'positive playfulness' and pass on positive messages with deconstructive and playful forms, such as exaggeration and reduction and recombination and reconstitution. Second, with tendencies of 'symbolic receptivity', Jacquemus gained inspiration from his own life, memories, and hometown, and attempted to express the street women of places such as southern France, Paris, and Monaco in a number of collections. Also, he proposed designs that can be worn easily by anyone, regardless of gender, and as plus size models began to become more common respect was given to the tastes and preferences of diverse individuals without distinctions based on body type or sexuality. Third, 'geometric simplicity' was generally expressed by pursuing simple and practical fashion with the addition of details, such as geometric forms including stripes or asymmetrical expressions centering around everyday material that is used in clothing. Fourth, with "open communication," Jacquemus constructed his identity by addressing the various needs of consumers based on social network services and continuously sharing his creative ideas with the public. He is gaining popularity in a unique way by responding quickly to the changing atmosphere of society.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.117-133
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• 2022

In order to reflect traditional elements in modern design, designers should be able to creatively apply elements of traditional Chinese clothing. To understand this, a deep understanding of and insights into the traditional clothing culture are required. In this study, the characteristics of traditional Chinese women's clothing from the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties of China to the Qing Dynasty were analyzed by dividing them into silhouette, color, pattern, materials, and detail. The characteristics of the silhouette were classified into A, H, X, and O types, of which types A and H were the most common. As for the color characteristics, there are relatively many five cardinal colors, and for the contrast of colors complementary colors were mainly used. As the for pattern characteristics, real patterns, animal patterns, character patterns, geometric patterns, and mixed patterns were used. Four types of materials were mainly used: silk, hemp, cotton, and wool. The detail characteristics were also anlyzed by classifying them into collar, sleeve, neckband, and gusset. Based on the results of this analysis, a satisfaction survey was conducted on the design of modern Chinese women's clothing. The result of satisfaction with design elements showed that the images of vest and suit were most preferred, H and X silhouettes, and yellow and white were the most preferred. Geometric and plant patterns were preferred, as were silk and acetate materials. Based on the result of chi-square analysis of design element preferences according to the characteristics of the subject, there was no difference according to occupation, residential area, or income, and there were differences in silhouette, color, materials, and detail according to age.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.183-203
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• 1998

The wave of Avant-garde swept away all in the unique social background so called 'October Revolution' and the early 1900 Russian society which was able to absorb and accept anything. The Russian avant-garde has been affected by the Cubism and the Futurism those had peculiarly appeared in the early twentieth century, spreaded out to three spheres: the Suprematism, the Rayonism and the Constructivism. The Russian Constructivism has appeared in this background, concretely and ideally ex-pressed the ideology of the revolution into the artistic form and made an huge influence to the whole Russian society. The Constructivist like Tatlin, naum Gabo, Pevaner, Rodchenko, Stepanova, Popova and Exter gave great effect on the Soviet Constructive fashion design in 1920's after the Revolution. The Soviet costume in 1920s hold in common the characteristicss of the Constructive graphic as it is, geometrical and abstractive form, energetic and motility. In fashion design, these graphic qualities have been showed as the application of geometrical form and architectural image, physical distortion and transformation. And in textile design, the simple, dynamical presentation has been appeared. We can classify the Soviet costume at this time into three occasions. The first term is from late 1910 th mid 1920, and it is altered from folk costume design to modern one. With Lamanova as the first on the list, using the folk mitif, the Constructive expression of simple form has been gradually revealed in design. Designers like Makarova, Pribylskaia and Mukhina produced the plane, simple chemise style with the decoration of the Russian traditional motif. From early to late 1920 is the second term, and it is at the pick of the most active processing of the Constructive design. Not only at the costume in daily life but also at the theatrical costume and textile, the con-structive design has been represented all avail-able fields. Many Constructivists including Stepanova, Popova, Exter and Rodchenko took part in the textile design and costume design so as to evlvo their aesthetic concept. The third term is from late 1920 to early 1930. The socialistic realism has dominated over the whole culture and art, the revolutionary dynamic motif has been presented also in textile design. The formative features of Soviet Constructive fashion design are; silhouette, from, motif, color and fabric. The first, the silhouette : a straight rectangular silhouetted has been expressed through the whole period and a volumed one with distorted human body shape has introduced in the theatrical costume design. The second, the form: many lengthened rectangular forms have been made at beginnings, but to the middle period, geometrical, architectural forms have been more showed and there are energy and movement in design. At the last period, only a partial feature-division has been seen. The third, the motif; no pattern or ethnic motif has been partly used at beginnings, a figure like circle, tri-angle has gradually appeared in textile design. At latter period, a real-existent motif like an airplane has been represented with graphing and simplicity. The fourth, the color ; because of insufficient dyeing, neutral color like black or grey color has been mainly covered, but after middle term, a primary color or pastel tone has been seen, contrast of the fabric; without much development of textile industry after the Revolution, thick and durable fabrics have been the main stream, but as time had going to the last period, fabrics such as linen, cotton, velvet and silk have been varously choesn. At the theatrical costume, new materials like plastics and metals that were able to accentuate the form. The pursuit of popularity, simplicity and functionalism that the basic concept of Constructive fashion is one of the "beauty" which has been searching in modern fashion. And now we can appreciate how innovative and epochal this Soviet Constructive fashion movement was.ement was.

• Fashion, Industry and Education
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.50-58
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• 2016

Passive learning attitudes and lack of enthusiasm in a retailing math course is quite common and a significant number of students do express their frustrations and struggles by seeking extra help outside the classroom. In order to promote students' active participation in class and to improve their performance and overall satisfaction with the course, a modified team-based learning (TBL) method was implemented in a retailing math course in two consecutive semesters. Implementing TBL into a retailing math course would improve students' accountability for their own learning, increase student interactions and engagement, and develop teamwork and collaboration skills. The scores on the midterm and final tests indicated that students' performance improved especially for the students who scored below 80% on each test when TBL was implemented. Students' reflection on the TBL activities done in class throughout the semester indicated that these TBL activities help them solidify the concepts taught in class better. They were able to realize their own mistakes and other group members who got the question right helped them understand. To maximize the benefit of TBL, it is suggested to implement TBL within the flipped classroom. Further research is called for to evaluate the effect of TBL on long-term knowledge retention among college students.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.9_10
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• pp.1418-1430
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• 2007

To strength global competitivenss and raise reputation in times of globalization, the practical use and development of traditional culture which must be discriminated against other countries wedging their ways. The purpose of this study is, 1. Make the mutual relationship between globalization of Korean traditional clothing(Hanbok) and the strean of the international fashion clear. 2. Deduce a common primary fact through commonness of international great products and a success of globalization in Asian nations 3. Suggest a scheme for globalization of Korean traditional clothing from the flank of a design and a policy on the basis of analysis. The consequence of this study is, 1. In the situation that modern international fashion focused Re-Orienting Fashion, Korean traditional clothing-Hanbok is considered as the most priceless value of application for an effective design sauce to differentiate.2. The common point between International leading fashion brands and success of globalization of each Asian nation is to pursuit an effective marketing strategy through a proper harmony with a differentiated 'uniqueness' which is motivated from their tradition, a sense of modern trend reading, and a 'generality' which fits in their lige styles. In consequence, we must develop typical design factors to be connected directly with Korean traditional image from the flank of design, For this, the typical design factors need to be applied with grafting tradition and modern ideas, simplicity, convenience, fleshly senses, and youth.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.1
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• pp.106-122
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• 2014

This study is based on the official Chinese history of the ancient Korean(中國正史朝鮮傳) clothing and ornaments, and also tries to discover, study, and adjust the system of the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments. Ancient Korea has very poor official records of its clothing and ornaments. Therefore, this study had no choice but to rely on the official Chinese history to cover for the lack of resources. The official Chinese history documents are not only important for studying ancient Korean history, but also important for studying about the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments. This research selected historical documents about the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments from fifteen different Chinese dynasties' official documents, and then systematically classified the documents in order to compare them. All these processes confirmed the following subjects. In regards to the Kwan(冠: general hat), the hat types included Check, Byun(弁), Jeol-poong(折風), Jowoo-Kwan(鳥羽冠), So-gol(蘇骨), and Na-kwan(羅冠). These Kwan(冠) were influenced from Chinese clothing and ornaments. Gold and silver decorations on the Kwan(冠) were influenced from the Scythai culture. The feather decorations on the hat were residual of the bird worshiping culture or the hunting lifestyle. These things show that the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments originated the clothing and ornaments from the North. But the use of Jo-woo(bird feather) was common around the globe in many ways during the ancient times, regardless of area and period. The official Chinese history describes men's hair style as Choo-gyul (椎結) or sometimes pronounced, Choo-gyul(椎結). These seem to describe the topknot. Women had various types of hair styles such as Yu-byun-bal-su-hu (wear women's hair in a braid). The official Chinese history show that the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments originated the clothing and ornaments from the north. The ancient Korean clothing and ornaments influenced and were influenced by its neighboring countries.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.16
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• pp.221-229
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• 1991

This thesis aims at reviewing the wearing aspect and formation of Chosun ceremonial dresses for meal and finding out the thought reflected by them from the standpoint that dresses themselves should be taken as one of the phenomena in culture. That is men's ceremonial costumes and confucian costumes of the royal family and the gentry family in Chosun is reviewed focused on the formation and the wearing aspect of Po, Which is a kind of them. And in the context of the phase of the times. I also considered the thoughts reflected on the clothes such as confucianism, Ying & Yang Theory, and the symbol and the thoughts of patterns in relation to the clothes. Confucian influence was the main force for the Chosun prohibitions for clothes. The major reasons for the prohibitions for clothes were as follows. First, they reflected confucian Chung myoung chooui(the principle that everything should be where it belongs). That is the prohibitions for clothes were used in the means to maintain feudalistic social order. influenced by social rank system. Second, they reflected confucian ethics in the means to recover social disciplines with the maintenance of traditional customs. This shows well in the restriction of luxurious items in dressing included the prohibitions for clothes. Third, they reflected Chosun's toadysm toward China. With the influx of Chinese style of dressing then government even changed the style of uniforms for public officials into that of Chinese resulting in dual styles of dressing. Ying & Yan Theory greatly affected the colors of Korean clothes and reflected toadysm toward China. too. The theory was embodied by prohibition of such colors for clothes as white, gray, and jade green. I reviewed the twelve patterns on Myunpok, Ten-Longivity patterns and Four-Gracious plants patterns in order to analyze the symbolism and thoughts of patterns for clothes. Nansam, Dopo, and Shimui worn by confucian scholars ensures that those clothes bears confucianism and philosopical factors. As shimui was worn by many people it appears in Chosun scholars' studies and a Chinese book called "Yeki". I reviewed the origin, procession, and ornaments of four ceremonial clothes and tried to find out the confucianism in them. First, In Kwanrei (the coming-of-age ceremony) remained ancestor worship and respect for manners. The clothes for this ceremony granted the rights and responsibilities of and adult to the wearer. The royal Kwanreipok had different dresses for each rank. As Samgapok, the crown prince wore Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for the first ritual, Wonryukwan and Kangsapo for the second, and Myunrukwan and Konpok for the third. The rank of the King's grandson was lower than the crown prince's. This example shows that Chosun people respected manners and thought the basic confucianism "God and people are equal." at the Royal court. Second, as Honreipok(wedding gown), the crown prince wore Myunrukwan and Konpok for Daereipok, Wonyukwan and Kangsapo for Napjing and Tongwoo, and Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for Chekbinui. But common people were allowed to wear an official outfit only for wedding in the means of congratulation on the most important day of their life. Wedding gowns which reflected Ying and Yang Theory emphasized the thought that union of a man and a wife is the most important event in life. Third, Sangrei(funeral) was the last ritual of a human being to send off the deceased. The mourning dresses expressed lamentation of the people left behind. Five-Dress-System for each the relative degree of familarity showed the solemnity and formality, which represented the formality of confucianism and ancestor worship. I reviewed the mourning dresses by dividing them into royal, Yangban's, and commons. They were featured by the fact that there was only one style for every walk of life. It is construed that anyone in mourning can wear the same clothes since he feels the same way regardless of his social rank. Fourth, Chereipok(sacrificial rite dresses) had different styles for each social rank. The King wore Myunpok(Kuryumyun and Kujangpok) were recorded to be worn first in the fourth year of King Taecho's ruling. The crown prince wore Palryumyun and Chiljangpok for sacrificial rite dress which was finally settled when King Sejong was in power. Common people wore Dopo, Shimui for the rite dress in the beginning of the Chosun Era and wore Dopo after Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. In conclusion, confucianism played the main role in ceremonial dress system of Chosun and that was because it emphasized the ethics of action in life, which was different from other religions. It is true that cause-oriented thoughts and Chung myoung chooui in confucianism drove all ceremonies to extreme manners, discriminating the people who belonged to the lower social rank, and resulting in extremly luxurious life style. However, they also created a unique trend and clothes culture in the Chosun Era. I wish that this thesis provieds important information and direction for furthur studies in the future.