• 복식
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• 제55권4호
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• pp.107-123
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• 2005

In this thesis, I tried to compare and analyze the characteristics of the costume worn by leading figures of French movie 'Dangerous Liaison' and Korean movie 'The Scandal'. I compared the costumes they wear with the costumes of 18th century Fran[e and also tried to analyze how the costumes represent the psychological status of the persons in the movie. Since these two movies are based on the same original novel, the major figure's characters, socio-economic status and the situations they faced are similar but the physical background are very different, that is Fran[e and Korea. The analysis of the costume worn by similar characters in the two movies show differences due to the intention of tile producer's. The costumes used in Scandal shows much more use of varied colors to represent the characters of the major roles while Dangerous Liaison more faithfully follows the evidences of the costume used in the period in France. As seen from the result of this analysis, we can deduce that the costumes used in the movie not only have the simple role of clothes but also itforms the image of the figure in the movie representing the social and economic status of the person who wears them. Because of these demands, the designer should posses profound knowledge of history of the costumes of the period as well as the creativity to harmonize them with the atmosphere that the movie intend to appeal.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.718-727
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• 1996

"Saikdong" is a material that represents the Korean aesthetic behavioral pattern of colors. It shows the unique harmony of the color combination with the use of simple combined colors. The objective of this paper is two-folded. First, it is to explore the direction of Korean Design. Secondly, it is to find out aesthetic charateristics and consciousness in Saikdong. 17 traditional costumes made with the designs of Saikdong were selected from three museums in Seoul. The most properly matched color hues selected after comparing each color with the Pantone Textile Color Specifier. The results were shown as follows. 1. Korean design is to recreate the traditional objects considering the contemporary circumstances. 2. Contrast effects in lightness and saturation are very noticeable in Saikdong. Saikdong maintains the same widths of color stripes with the asymmetric balance of hues which give the rhythmical arrangement of colors. 3. Sikdong contains the shamanic wishes that everything is going well and the desire for the beauty. 4. The aesthetic consciousness of Saikdong has turned out to be happiness and harmonizing.rmonizing.

• 복식
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• 제38권
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• pp.143-157
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• 1998

This research is to aim at presenting arrangement of colors, visual and symbolic through combined coupling ofI-Ging and Sackdong. This combined couplings is attempted to be approached by the following 4 conceptual steps :ⅰ) Is it appropriate to even try to coupleI-Ging with Sackdong\ulcorner ⅱ) Is the basic structure of Kwai an object of stripe colorizing\ulcorner ⅲ) What are the fundamental colors for this purpose\ulcorner ⅳ)combined of Kwai and the fundamental colors. Theoretical background for this study is as follows.ⅰ) Color accord and arrangements of existing Sackdong. ⅱ) An attempt to coupleI-Ging with Sackdong The purpose of this research is to expand concrete concept of Sackdong, which is to be utilized not only in costume design, but in the whole realm of design, by presenting feasible application of stripe coloredI-Ging. The summary of conclusion of this research is as follows. A. Is this aforementioned attempt academic\ulcorner B. Standardization of stripe-coloring is essential. Furthurmore we can conclued that the under-standing ofI-Ging and its basic philosophical background and the fundamental mechanism of colors in traditional costumes is necessary condition for standardization of Kwai. Along this path, however, conditions to be satisfied and priorities to be given depend upon the decision of an individual or a group. In my view, sripe-colorizing of 64 Kwais ofI-Ging followed by intuitive matching of colors with the in-terpretation of Kwais seems to be the most appropriate solution.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.1050-1063
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• 2008

A movie is a fiction made on a basis of an author's and a writer's imagination, but all sorts of properties mixed with each other and most realistically expresses the era which becomes the background of a movie and acts as a carrier that connects designers with consumers. Thus, this study was carried out to review how the fashion products that designer's intention and commercial value added are expressed in collections by comparing and analysing the costumes in the movie "The Great Gatsby" that described the life of America's upper-class in 1920s and the 04 S/S Y&Kei collection which were proceeding after getting inspiration from this movie. For this, literature materials were inspected in order to make a theoretical review on social and cultural background and costumes history background in 1920s and the photo materials on movie costume were collected and analysed using DVD video captures, as well as the photo materials on 04 S/S Y&Kei were collected and analyzed through the institute providing domestic fashion information. The following conclusion was deduced through this study. First, in 1920s which becomes the background of this study, the slim shape of Flapper which looks like a young and boy became an ideal figure condition and the straight silhouette with low waist line and the short skirt that rose to knee was popular. Second, as a result of analysing movie costume by classifying it in silhouette, colors, and materials, straight silhouette of low waistline with a near colored - tone seen in the pastel series, including white, beige, pink, and gray was mainly constituted and the metal colors like silver and gold were used. As a material, chiffon, satin, velvet, flower patterned prints, and beads were used, which represented luxurious life of women in the upper classes. Third, as a result of comparing and analysing, it turned out that there was a similarity. However, in dress collection for a heroine, some dissimilarity differentiated from a movie costumes was found out in that the dresses in collection expressed moderate beauty and modernism and elegant beauty at the same time by matching a variety of materials and using black color.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.63-74
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• 2005

The cinema costume designers carry out the creative works in a different way from the commercial fashion designers generating the new trends by season or year for a number of people. Costumes created by the cinema costume designers are for the people acting in the film screens such as heroes, heroines or extras. The cinema costume designers should not miss the overall flow of a cinema. Moreover, the prominent designers have to devise the costumes livening up every scene. Most cinemas with the prudent interests and attention on the costumes are favored by the public and gain the commercial success. In particular, the cinemas emphasize the visual effects such as setting, lighting and computer graphics and require the substantial budgets for preparing the costumes regardless of genres, while all other industrial fields will be the same. Such efforts are to deliver the meaning and aesthetics that the cinemas intend to show through the designs, colors and textures of costumes closed up in each scene. The costumes in cinemas are another linguistic system and have the symbolic form of compound and meaningful communication used by the directors. The costume design is required to produce the costumes that liven up the characteristics of heroes or heroines as well as to fit for the general artistic effects of films. Moreover, it has to express the characters in the films using the costumes suitable for the film genres. Cinema costumes are defined and refined, and the process can be angst-ridden. Each frame of film is a canvas and has its own proscenuium. Every garment worn in a theatrical production is a costume. Before an actor speaks, his wardrobe has already spoken for him. From the most obvious and flamboyant show clothing, to contemporary clothes using subtle design language, costume design plays an integral part in every film production. Costume design is a vital tool for storytelling. Costumes have always had enormous influence on world fashion. Costume designers are passionate storytellers, historians, social commentators, humorists, psychologists, trendsetters and magicians who can conjure glamour and codify icons. Costume designers are project managers who have to juggle ever-decreasing wardrobe budgets and battle the economic realities of film production. Costume designers are artists with pen and paper, form, fabric and the human figure.

• 복식
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• 제56권5호
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• pp.132-149
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to establish the theoretical view for the analysis of the aesthetic characteristics of dress from the viewpoint of oriental aesthetics. Also, this study examined the universality and particularity of aesthetic characteristics in Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes. To establish the theoretical view for the aesthetic analysis of dress from the viewpoint of oriental aesthetics, this study examined the relationship between the internal spirit of human, culture and the external form of dress. Based on this consideration, the viewpoints for the analysis of dress formation were the 'Form' as the basic structure of the external formation of dress and 'the Ornamentation' as the emphasis of the artistic characteristics of dress. The common world view shared by Korea and Japan holds the thinking system that everything is created from 'not to bee(無)' to 'being(有)'. This view emphasizes the totality and circulation of energy called 'Ki(氣)'. According to this view, oriental culture has been developed by intuition and pleasure called 'Heung(興)'. Therefore, the form of the oriental culture includes ambiguity and emphasizes the total harmony. These characteristics appeared in dress as the design of ambiguity, asymmetry and concealment. The meaning of the ornamentation in oriental world was the unified harmony of diversity and the colors and patterns of oriental dress were used by the symbolic meaning of Yin-Yang & Wu-Shing (陰陽五行)s principles. On the basis of the world view of the Ki, Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes commonly shared the aesthetic values of concealment, emptiness, and symbolism. Also, their costumes expressed the difference, especially in the ornamentation. Korean costume expressed the beauty of simplicity and naivety, and Japanese costume expressed the beauty of ornamentation and nonornamentatIon.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.821-829
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• 2010

The men's costume of eighteenth century showed feminine image of elegant decoration through the influence of social feminine atmosphere. As years go, heading towards the end of the eighteenth century, most of men's wear were simplified except vest, which had gorgeous decorations showing feminity. Therefore, men's vest of eighteenth was regarded as good item to apply to modern women's wear. The men's vest design of eighteenth century were divided into three types due to the passage of time, they showed the difference in the length, detail and trimming. Cutting lines in the modern fashion are used to give comfort and show the three-dimensional body silhouette. Also, cutting lines, as a decoration element, can define the costume's image and characteristics. Therefore, by using cutting lines, we can represent historical costume as modern costume and men's wear as women's wear. I made five women's costumes applying design characteristics of the men's vest of the eighteenth century. These five women's costumes have decorative aspect of men's vest of eighteenth century and simple aspect of men's costume. I applied dart manipulation in several different ways to make various cutting lines for women's costume. These cutting lines were emphasized by matching various colors and patterns of fabrics. I made small buttons and cords of these various fabrics. I sewed fabric buttons on five costumes for the purpose of function and decoration like buttons of the men's vest of eighteenth century. I applied fabric cords to decorate five costumes in various way. We should further study how to express important characteristics of historical costumes as modern costume in many ways.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.331-347
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to investigate historical and geographical environments in the development of the Naxi costumes of Chinese ethnic minorities and their characteristics-including religious cultures and totem worship-and to suggest the direction of fashion design toward the modernization of traditional costumes. The research methodology involved the collection of materials and investigatation into the history, culture, and characteristics of Naxi costumes; in particular, the "seven-star" sheepskin cape, one of the Naxi people's important ethnic costumes as demonstrated by the women's clothing that has been designed in reflection of this traditional costume. The results are as follows. First, Naxi costumes are found to have overall coherence and distinct locality when retained in the process of modernizing the traditional costume. The theme of this work is titled "By the Light of the Moon and the Stars," which is expressed in contemporary fashion by the use of grey and dark red against a background of black, a color preferred by the Naxi people. Second, the Naxi people's seven-star sheepskin cape is a symbol of women's clothing with its characteristic patterns, shapes, and colors, and it is subject to creative modernization while retaining its unique ethnic characteristics. Third, the work expresses the contemporary stylishness of the costume while maintaining the customary decorative accessories from the Naxi people's traditional culture.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2014

The costumes (including mask) of the first World Master series of The National Changguk Company of Korea, Achim Freyer's 'Mr. Rabbit & Dragon king' is directly designed by Achim Freyer who was in charge of direction and stage design. The new form called Pansori opera is proposed for modernization of Korean traditional opera, it maintained the original form of music yet introduced play form of opera. The costumes and stage also promoted modernistic transformation while maintaining the original Korean form. The overall concept of 'Mr. Rabbit & Dragon king' costumes emphasizes comical effect by abstractness like childlike scribble. It expressed characteristic of characters diversely through exaggeration and expansion while maintaining original form of Hanbok, used surface of costumes as a drawing board, and created flat and geometrically transformed silhouette. The complicated characters was caricatured like everyone is doing mask play by using masks, and it still maintained sophisticated oriental color with modern application of five cardinal colors. It may seems it just mixed our traditional elements like a hint of humor, however, it could be known that it introduced various techniques in it to deliver new subject while maintaining the original form of 'Mr. Rabbit & Dragon king'. From this study, open mind for our tradition and need for diverse attempt could be rediscovered and could also see the possibility to contribute on creating a Nation Brand of traditional performing art.

• 복식
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• 제64권8호
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• pp.124-137
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to produce an essential guideline for making costumes for traditional Korean mask plays by doing a comparative analysis between traditional Korean mask plays and Italian 'Commedia dell'arte'. The results of this study are as follow. The costumes of Korea's mask plays were mainly used to show difference in social status. Analysis showed that costume features, such as color, fabric, and silhouette, were not important to the traits of the character. On the other hand, the costumes in the Italian 'Commedia dell'arte' were used to express the characters' traits. The colors, fabric and silhouettes were exaggerated compared to everyday wear. This enhanced the looks of the character, and it kept on developing with the demands of the culture consumer. This study was performed to support further development and success of traditional Korean mask plays.