• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.263-277
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• 2008

In picture bible, the picture is helpful for showing story more vividly and specifically and it is helpful for finding the meaning of bible hidden behind familiarity. It plays the role of the most powerful testimony and expression, with which human provides himself. The purpose of study was to grasp the relation among historical background of the middle age, human's characteristic and symbolic color by considering the fact that the costume expressed in Maciejowski Bible, which is a picture bible of the middle age and observing type, color and decoration of costume. Among 46 folios organizing Maciejowski Bible, 129 pictures explaining the Book of Genesis, the Book of Exodus, the Book of Leviticus, the Book of Numbers, the Book of Deuteronomy, the Book of Joshua and the Book of Judges, which belong to the former 400 years of the old Testament, were analyzed for people's costumes. The pictures shown in Maciejowski Bible portrays object, costume and behavior on the background of France of the 13th century so we can find out the precious natures of middle age's costume, weapon and armor. Especially, the portrait about finger armor of chain mail attached in hauberk becomes the outstanding evidence that can encroach the discussion over whether it was used in the end of 1300s. Regarding costumes of main characters, they wore chemise and braies as underwear, wore tunic or cotte having various lengths from the length reaching knee to the length reaching 8round as basic costume and wore mantle with different-colored lining and hose with various colors. In the war picture, we can see hauberk made with chain mail and cyclas with long slit, which was worn over hauberk, barrel helmet, norman helmet and steel school cap. Regarding cap. man usually wore coif, beret, shade-shaped cap, straw hat and woman wore the decoration using veil and hairlace and used the method to wrap whole hair with net. As the colors used in the costume of the picture bible, scarlet, blue, green and brown were usually used in order. They usually wore costumes decorated splendidly with the colors haying hish brightness and chroma.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.8
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• pp.132-150
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to study the forms and styles of the costumes in the Peking Opera of China and to figure out the symbolism and aesthetic value of the costumes. The research was done using documentary Peking Opera, the costumes can be seen as a special kind of language which audience members can clearly understand it. Therefore, the spectators can understand instantly the sex, age, personality, and position of the character by seeing the style, color, and patterns of the costumes. As a result, one can call the costumes of Peking Opera, "picturizing costumes". The typical costumes are mangpao, pi, kao, xiezi, yi. Mangpao is the ceremonial robe often used by emperors and officials. It can be worn by lao sheng, xiao sheng and wu sheng. Bright yellow and apricot yellow colors are used exclusively by those who play the parts of emperors, foreign rulers, princes and the Monkey King. The next costume style to be discussed is Pi. Pi is the informal dress for the emperor, and young officials that are involved in civilian or military duties. The third costume style to be explored is Kao: the garment that a stage warrior wears when going into battle. This warrior can have three kinds of armor: the hard armor, the soft armor and the newly revised armor. Fourthly, the costume that is the most commonly worn, xiezi, is examined; it is the informal coat for every one regardless of one's age, sex, role, or level of nobility. Finally, the last of the typical costumes is Yi; this costume category includes numerous kinds of costumes, such as kaichang, baguaiyi, fayi, guanyi, yulinjia, kanjian, toupeng, jianyi, etc

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.158-170
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• 2016

This study analyzes historical drama costumes as a domain of popular culture through an examination of the changing process, factors, and design characteristics of historical drama costumes according to trend changes in historical dramas after the 2000s. Public interest in Korean traditional clothing has grown due to the historical drama fever. Research results are as follows. First, historical dramas are divided into: authentic historical dramas, popular dramas, and fusion dramas. Historical drama costumes show characters' status and roles to help viewers become absorbed in dramas and increase understanding the historical periods and knowledge. Second, the characteristics of TV historical drama costumes (according to changes of the historical dramas according to 2000) brought diversification as they are diversified by period, genre, and character and costumes which are suitable for them additionally resurfaced. Third, as for the design characteristics by type in TV historical costume after 2000s, authentic historical dramas' design was done by comparatively in-depth historical research based on historical materials to help public understand the past. Popular historical drama costumes are based on history, but the forms of costumes were emphasized (or exaggerated); in addition, colors, subjects, and patterns were modified to emphasize image beauty, dramas' atmosphere, and characters by reflecting intention. The fusion of historical dramas' costumes attracted the attention of the public about Korean designs that harmonized tradition with modernity to actively reflect current trends in past periods and show new types of creative design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.655-670
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to identify the figurative characteristics and symbolic meanings of the patterns of royal families in the late Joseon Dynasty based on the theoretical examination as well as the overall characteristics of the colors based on the quantitative analysis of colors. This study focused on the costumes of King Young royal families in the late Joseon Dynasty which is the last costume of Joseon Dynasty and classified 129 relics under preservation for the analysis. This study analyzed the colors using the digital data in the picture brochure as the previous studies did and presented the color palette. Based on this, a variety of textile designs that are developed by using the traditional patterns and colors could be applied to the modern fashion designs. For Patterns used in costumes of King Young royal families, the five pattern categories include animals, plants, letters, and geometric patterns and the final category of other types. The features of color in the costume were v tone of Y color and lt and p tones of Y color. The implication of this study is to develop textile designs which reflects conversion of past and modern cultures and cultural identity by applying the traditional cultural elements through literature review and empirical study and theses developed 8 textile designs could be applied to the various modesrn fashion designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.72-87
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• 2011

The 21st century are seeing a large number of performing arts, and one of them, opera is evolving, transforming itself as one of total arts. Besides, the costume in performing art which play a major role in opera's visual impact, characterize figures, set the tone for performance and greatly contribute to the perfection of the stage. Under these circumstances, the study developed designs of stage costumes and built a full-scale production of the Magic Flute, one of three greatest Mozart operas. The opera based on a fiction, is still popular today since it is a fantastic fairy tale introducing moral and ethical lessons. The play's background itself is Egypt. But due to its fairy-take-like storyline, it has been performed focusing on various concepts rather than on costumes prepared through background research. As such, this study conducted research on designs of stage costumes that contains the element of Egypt and also take athleticism and comfort into consideration. The results derived from the study were as follows. First, traditional dresses of ancient Egypt were used as a basis while adding some modem touch in terms of forms or colors, which resulted in a new design. Second, a variety of images were captured using textures and colors that fit the characteristics of attributes of the figures. Third painting techniques were used to help highlight the symbolic image of Egypt-simple, not heavy and extravagant-with fairy-tale-like fantasy.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.293-304
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to revoke attention to the funeral costumes which has been neglected by academic fields and fashion industries. We investigated the traditional funeral garments by the literature reviews and the actual conditions by the questionnaire. For the data analysis, 525 questionnaires for male and female in Seoul, Daeagu, Jeonju and Busan were collected. Men mainly wore the western style black suits, women wore the traditional white funeral costumes during the funeral service. Most of the respondents were dissatisfied with the funeral garments. We investigated the styles, the materials and the colors of the funeral garments which were favored by the consumers. The preferences and the criteria of the funeral garments were different with sex, age, income, educational levels, religion and occupational status of husband partly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.384-395
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• 1998

The objectives of this study were to analyze the color characteristics of Saikdong by the standardized color system and to applicate it's color characteristics to fashion design. 25 traditional costumes made with Saikdong were selected from four museums in Seoul. The colors were measured using CE 310 and analyzed by Munsell HV/C. The results were shown as follows; 1. The frequently used hues in Saikdong are warm colors such as red, orange, yellow. Except purplish blue, cool colors show low usage ratio. 2. The tones of medium lightness and saturation are most frequent in Saikdong colors. 3. The characteristics of color combination are the contrast of hue and the similarity in tones. This makes the saikdong splendid and harmonious. 4. Based on this anaylized characteristics of Saikdong color combination, fashion designs were developed by computer simulations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.2 s.101
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• pp.112-124
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• 2006

Globally, several ethnic groups have expressed their spirit cultures based on their ethnic identity in diverse ways. Clothing has been one of the convenient objects to express ethnic identities. Therefore, patterns and colors used in traditional costumes have worked as a means to help understanding spirit cultures of ethnic groups. Since colors help strengthening solidarity of social members based on ethnic preference and community consensus, colors have performed a crucial role as a strategic tool in the fashion business closely related to consumers' individual characteristics. In survey results, color preferences of Korean and Italian specialists showed significant differences in signboard colors and disliked colors. Many Korean fashion specialists selected pink as a preferred color, black as a clothing color, red and white as a color with high visibility, and orange as a disliked color. In case of Italy, many specialists selected red and black as highly visible colors for a signboard, and green as a disliked color. In results comparing color preference for colors between Korean and Italian fashion design specialists, there were differences in color sensibility. Since this research used data from survey conducted using a very limited and much manipulated stimuli among a wide range of color schema and patterns, the study result may not be fully generalized. In future studies, more research using diversely segmented stimuli would be needed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.78-96
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• 2016

This study investigated the colors of the costumes and backgrounds of characters in the fantasy film, Alice in Wonderland(2010) by Tim Burton. The methods used were literature studies including related books, articles and internet materials, and positive research with DVD color analysis. Twenty-one scenes were selected by the researcher. Five scenes were selected from novel and film components representing, exposition, complication, crisis, climax, and denouement. After controlled pixel by photoshop program and the represented colors, hues and tones were analyzed. The results were as follows; First, in four characters, Alice's dress colors changed depend on the situation and the passage offered from blue to red, metal light, and blue green. The Mad Hatter's colors were orange with green which signified madness and passion. The Red Queen's red dress and blue make up represented countrified and evil. The White Queen's all white dress and hair, black eyes and vivid red meant purity and nobility. Similar characters' colors were limited. Second, the background colors, especially tones were an important component of the fantasy image. These were different for each type of scene in the film such as exposition, complication, crisis, climax, and denouement.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.407-423
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze Bakst's stage costume illustrations for Ballets Russes. The Russian Ballets has renown in the West since the early 20th century. Diaghilev first made his name as the organizer of art exhibitions in Russia and Western Europe. Diaghilev risked presenting only ballets in 1909, that time Bakst designed $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu and Le Carnival. $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$ was something new which overwhelmed the French people by then. It was seen to be the achievement of Wagner's idea where all the elements; the music, the design, the choreography, and the dancing fused into a perfect whole. The entire production was a hitherto unseen harmony of colors, sounds and movements. For the 1911 season in Paris, Diaghilev planned to present six new ballets and Bakst designed four ballets. Bakst's design of the set and the costume greatly shocked the audience. His "Originality" shines on the fact that he introduced a palette of colors in theater for the first time in history. He used a magic of colors to suggest the secret meaning of what was happening on the stage. The results can be divided into three distinct characteristics. First, oriental designs such as $Cl{\acute{e}}op{\hat{a}}tre$, $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu, La $P{\acute{e}}ri$ and Le Dieu Blue with Russian, Indian and Persian traditional design in headdress and accessories ars found. Second, Le Carnival and La Spectre de la Rose used romantic styles with oriental details. Third, Greek chiton and Himation are used in Narcisse, $H{\acute{e}}l{\grave{e}}ne$ de Sparte, $L'Apr{\grave{e}}s-Midi\;d^{\grave{\;}}un$ Faune and Daphnis et $Chlo{\acute{e}}$ inspirde with various colors and geometic patterns. Bakst's orient of lush colored costumes, head dress, cushions, rugs and hangings became the immediate fashion imitated by Parisian couture houses and interior decorators.