• 복식
• /
• 제12권
• /
• pp.9-23
• /
• 1988

This study is on the costumes for Korean traditional play, Nong-ak(farm music), and intends to analyze their aesthetic features, laying emphasis on Pilbong Nong-ak, Im sil, Chollanam-do. About its origin there are many kinds of theories; for example, the theory of hoping stability, the theory of it being related with Buddhism, the theory of martial music, etc. Shamanic, Buddhist, and martical fators that support these theories are expressed through flags, bells, drums, Deograe (half-coats), Cheonrips (sang-mo, felf hats), go-kkals(peaked hats), colored lines called 'ga-sa', which are used in Nong-ak. The characteristic of the costumes used in Pilbong Nong-ak is that it keeps its conservativeness and the costumes of its members are various and splendid. For example, leader groups' black half coats, Changbu's and Hwa-dong's red and bule over coats are remarkable. Particpants wear gok-kal or cheonrip, trousers and half coats which are the basic costumes of Korean Hanbok, and wear blak half coats or blue vests and put blue, red, and yellow lines around them. The colors and knotting methods of those lines in this region are the same with those of chollawoo-do and Kyongi province, but different form those of Kongwon and Kyong-sang province using green, red, and yellow colors. This comparison of colors shows each region's preference of peculiar colors and those colors coincide with colors used in flags. The research on the aesthetic characteristics of Nong-ak clothes through each region's clothes tells us that these can be linear clothes which have expressiveness as stage clothes used in Madangori, the play which is performed in the field, and modern spatial formativeness. Those characteristics are as follows; 1. The expressions of a rhythmical and daring round line by turning a long line of sang-mo. 2. Various rhythms according to the attaching methods. 3. The expressions of thick, simple, and daring color lines. 4. Natural beauty of materials. 5. The popular simplicity and non-technicality 6. The beauty of five-direction colors, Oriental ideal colors Consequently in this study our national consciousness of beauty are examined through clothes. It is suggested that the aesthetic characteristics of Nong-ak clothes and ornaments should be effectively expressed, for this purpose. interests in participants' clothes should be increased in order to prevent the confusion of each region's features. Also it is necessary to improve color lines, their length, width, and knotting methods, and beautify instrument. Finally this study intends to bring the reappraisal about the art of Nong-ak clothes and its re-establishment in view of modern aesthetic consciousness.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제14권5호
• /
• pp.730-738
• /
• 2012

This study proposes a process to design and analyze stage costumes by design elements for the costumes of the Korean traditional music cantata 'I Will Rise'. This study states fundamental references to make costumes of similar performances in the future and develop costume designs based on the format of a play. The findings are as follows. First, the costume production process of 'I Will Rise' is conducted in the order of directing intentions and script analysis, costume design, miniature production, costume production, costume modification, run, and post-production. Second, an overall Korean silhouette is expressed through the creation of costumes based on the construction of Korean traditional clothing (hanbok); however, from a detail perspective, a modernistic sensitivity is expressed through the use of modern elements (wing shoulders attached to shoulders, narrow ribbons made in a string form, and wristlets and belts) not found in hanboks. Third, tie-dying is applied to the costume colors of each character to highlight the traditional and unique feeling of dye and symbolic colors that effectively represent each role used to communicate the storyline and character emotions to the audience. Fourth, materials for costumes are cotton and linen (frequently used to create the texture of a Hanbok) as the costume of each character is emphasized to the use of additional and detailed materials such as artificial leather, hemp, and silk.

• 복식
• /
• 제58권10호
• /
• pp.21-36
• /
• 2008

This study intended to analyze the morphological characteristics and images of figure skating costume designs in order to grope the figure skating costume designs that can effectively demonstrate beauty in actual competitions. The study was implemented on the figure skating costumes of Ladies medalists in 4 largest international competitions held in 2005. The morphological elements of the costumes for Ladies include lines and colors, textures, details and accessories and these are used in designing for visual effects of movements and for maximum expressions of program images. The images that account for the largest percentage of Ladies figure skating costumes were shown to be elegant images followed by sexy images, luxury images and girlish images in the order of precedence. Overwhelmingly many refined and sexy images were presented in 2005 season and in 2006 season appeared along with them, many costumes with individual and gorgeous images. In 2007 season appeared many costumes with matured and exotic images and in 2008 began to appear many refined and elegant costumes. The images of costumes show slight differences among players enabling the taste of each player for figure skating costumes to be guessed.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제22권1호
• /
• pp.15-32
• /
• 2020

This study aims to develop contemporary fashion designs from the unique Yao minority costumes and to explore the possibility of developing creative designs by using knitting materials. The research method is based on the cultural clothing and costumes of the Chinese ethnic minority, as well as literature concerning the Yao costumes and photo data to investigate the cultural background and characteristics apparent in Yao costumes. The overall design characteristics of Yao costumes are as follows. First, the shape of Yao costumes are divided into straight-lined short tops with pleated skirts or shorts, or cardigan tops with pants and aprons, or long shirts, pants, and a belt. Each variant of tribal clothing is different. Second, the colors used are mainly black or dark blue, and these are accented by other colors, such as red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and white. Third, the clothing patterns are mainly in plant, animal, natural, geometric, and human, etc. motifs. The most common patterns in daily life are the patterns using geometric shapes, plants, or animals. Using the background of the unique lifestyles of the Yao ethnic minority, this study applied hand knitting and jacquard techniques for a knit fashion design. In order to develop traditional patterns, Yao patterns were entered into an Illustrator and SDS-ONE APEX3-4 was used for simulation. Using wool fibers as the raw material; the knitting machine used a Bird's eye Jacquard technique-10GG. The results of this research and design work were as follows. First, the knitted clothing design using Yao clothing elements has significance for the development and flexible use of ethnic elements in contemporary creative design. Second, the straight cut design using hand-knitted and jacquard-knit fabrics can minimize waste materials and provide more possibilities for sustainable design development. Third, it provides additional methods for the combination of hand-knitting and jacquard knitting fashion design.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제14권4호
• /
• pp.63-72
• /
• 2012

In this study, Characteristics of colors on Chinese traditional costume in Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing Dynasty were compared. And general colors of Chinese traditional costume and the viewpoint of them were considered. The purpose of this study were to apt colors of Chinese traditional costumes to the sensory appetite of modern people for new things, and make the recreation inspired by new senses be applied into the fashion industry effectively. The results were as followed : Firstly, colors distribution of 5 dynasties were different. In the Tang, R(red) was highest, YR(yellow red) and Y(yellow) followed. In the Song, YR was highest, Y and R followed and PB(purple blue) was increased, In the Yuan, R, YR, PB, B were concentrated at low rates, and other colors were increased, In the Ming, Y, R and B were concentrated at low rates orderly, and other colors were increased, In the Qing, PB was highest and Y, R, YR, B, P(purple) were increased. Secondly, tons distribution of 5 dynasties were different. In the Tang, L(light) was highest, P(pale) and Lgr(light grayish) followed. In the Song, P(pale) was highest, Lgr, Gr(grayish) and Dl(dull) followed In the Yuan, Dp(deep) was highest, P and Lgr followed, and other tones were increased, In the Ming, S(strong) was highest, DI and V(vivid) followed. Thirdly, The general colors of 5 dynasty were R, YR, Y, B, PB colors with vivid, deep and light tones. Forth, the viewpoint of color on Chinese traditional costume was based on the Yin-Yang and the Five Elements theory. Based on results of this study, the successive researches will be carried out about the unique colors of each nation and application traditional colors to modern fashion industry in order to the unique cultural sense.

• 복식
• /
• 제61권6호
• /
• pp.15-37
• /
• 2011

This study is on dancing dresses of the costumes of Gum-Mu(劍舞, sword dance) in southern, central, and northern region of Korea, focusing on the origin, characteristics and the way of dance. The reason why the Gum-Mu is full of local color is that royal Korean Gisaeng(妓生) and local Gisaeng returned to their hometown and propagated this dance to each regional Kyobang. They combined court sword with each local dance and music and formed the present style of regional Gum-Mu. Dance and music native to area, which has formed today's regional Gum-Mu. The composition of current dancing costume of the sword dance is Jeogori, Chima, Jeondae(戰帶), Jeonrib(戰笠), Kwaeja(快子) Also, The complement colors harmonizing with color of Yin-Yang & Five Elements. which are yellow, blue, white, red, and black, are usually used. And the masculinity in dance were expressed withmore use of blue, and red in the opposite but if a sword dance takes on masculine character, blue color is more used, if feminie character, reddish colors, such as pink and red, are used. Thus, JinJu, Honam, Haeju, Pyeongyang dancing Suit of Gum-Mu feature blue color, Tongyeong, Kyeonggi, Court(seoul)dancing Suit of Gum-Mu feature reddish color.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제13권6호
• /
• pp.1-11
• /
• 2009

Dong Tribe is a populous nationality with brilliant civilization, they created their unique culture of costumes and accessories throughout the long river of history. And the children's costumes could be the florid feature of the splendid fashion of Dong Tribe because they reflect the sentimental tastes and consciousness of the nation. The children's costumes of Dong Tribe are classified as infants' garments and children's garibaldis by different ages, the garments are much more in kinds, fresher in colors and much complicated in shapes while comparing with the adults' garments. Furthermore, the children's hats, bibs and baby carriers are also the outstanding features in children's costumes of Dong Tribe.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제31권6호
• /
• pp.824-836
• /
• 2023

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of women's costumes among the Regency era's elite in the television drama Bridgerton (2020). Its methodology investigates the socio-cultural background and literature on clothing in the Regency era. It also analyzes the formative elements of Daphne's costumes (of the Bridgerton family) and Penelope's costumes (of the Featherington family) representing the upper class. The study reveals that women's costumes had a tubular silhouette consisting of a low neckline, high waistline, and short puffed sleeves. The series expressed well the Regency-era costumes, which were influenced by Neoclassicism and characterized by silk materials, shawls, gloves, belts, a reticule, and hairstyles. Among the formative elements, the Bridgerton and Featherington families' costumes showed distinct differences in color, materials, patterns, accessories, and hairstyles. Daphne's costumes were intelligent and elegant in pastel-toned blues and had small patterns. She carried small accessories and had a natural curled hairstyle. In contrast, Penelope wore decorative and splendid styles in intense colors and large patterns. Her accessories were large and colorful, and she had a strong curled hairstyle. These costumes express the Bridgerton family as aristocratic and the Petringer family as flashy, thereby distinguishing the two families. These research results will be presented as basic data for producing drama costumes in the 19th century to help complete the drama.

• 복식
• /
• 제56권9호
• /
• pp.98-111
• /
• 2006

The objective of this research is to examine the commonness and differences of Korean, Chinese and Japanese costume colors of modern and present ages. The result of this study showed that modern China and Japan had quick influx speed of Western culture. Dissimilarly, modern Korea kept conception of colors from Chosun periods that show the high frequency of 'Five Elements Colors' and neutral colors in Red, Yellow and Purple Blue. Today, the costumes of China, Korea and Japan use similar tones of color but each country approached in different selections of achromatic colors; Korean prefers color in Yellow Red, Purple, and Chinese in Green Yellow, Green and Japanese in Purple Blue. Light greyish and pale toned Yellow Red and grayish tone have increased in modern Chinese and Japanese costumes. Also both countries have corresponding assumptions in using color of Red in strong tone. The analysis of color and tone distribution showed that, Japanese costume colors in modern and present times have correlative number of use as in Western culture. Traditionally, Japan has least notion of using 'Five Elements Colors' which only gives minor changes by convergence of Western color culture. In other side, China had developed in color rather than tone compares to Korea and Japan by using many of the Red color of strong, vivid and deep tones which made red distinguishing color of China. Japan continues to use of low chroma colors and became a characteristic in modern and present day, also they use an abundance of color in Yellow Red, purple Blue. Korea has a higher frequency showing in light, bright tones of color distinctively compares to China and Japan.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제25권3호
• /
• pp.375-390
• /
• 2017

The aims of this research were to characterize magic realism by analyzing existing magical reality literature reviews and research and to identify material that may inspire ideas for stage and film costume design by analyzing and drawing design characteristics and magic realism of costumes from Director Tarsem Singh's movie, 'Mirror, Mirror'. For the methodology, characteristics of magic realism in literature and, movies were analyzed, with a theoretical consideration of these materials on magical realism. Data on costume design and magical realism characteristics for use in the analysis were collected from the main characters of 'Mirror, Mirror' as well as from other characters. The result of this analysis was the emergence of five common characteristics of the magic realism Historicity, the most remarkable characteristic seen in Tarsem Singh films, was expressed through the symbolic meaning and decorative patterns shown by the traditional-style costumes, colors. Symbolization was expressed through the symbolic meaning, decorative elements, and traditional clothes, as shown by the colors and forms of the costumes. Fantasy was expressed through the colors, decorative elements, forms of traditional clothing, and forms with symbolic meaning. Reproducibility was expressed through the method of decorative element, symbolic meaning, traditional forms and de-structural clothes. Ambiguity, which can be associated with the combined characteristics of historicity and fantasy, was expressed in the clothes worn in the scenes that confounded time and space within the film.