• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.78-97
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• 2021

Seojangdaeyajodo is a drawing of military night training on February 12th (lunar leap month), 1795. Focusing on the Seojangdaeyajodo, the characteristics and of the costumes worn by various types of officials were examined. There were 34 officials located near King Jeongjo in and around Seojangdae, with 27 Dangsanggwan and 7 Danghagwan. They wore three types of costumes, including armor, yungbok, and military uniforms. All of the twelve armor wearers and the five officials wearing yungbok were dangsanggwan, and the military uniform wearers included eleven dangsanggwan and six danghagwan. For the shape of the armor, the armor relics of General Yeoban, suitable for riding horses, and the armor painting of Muyedobotongji were referenced, and the composition of the armor was based on practicality. The armor consists of a helmet, a suit of armor, a neck guard, armpit guards, arm guards, and a crotch guard. The color of the armor was red and green, which are the most frequently used colors in Seojangdaeyajodo. The composition of yungbok was jurip, navy cheollik, red gwangdahoe, socks made of leather, and suhwaja. The composition of the military uniform was a lined jeolrip, dongdari, jeonbok, yodae, jeondae, and suhwaja. There were differences in the fabrics used in dangsanggwan and danghagwan military uniforms. Dangsanggwan used fabric with depictions of clouds and jewels, and danghagwan used unpatterned fabric. Moreover, jade, gold, and silver were used for detailed ornamental materials in dangsanggwan. The weapons included bows and a bow case, a sword, a rattan stick, wrist straps, and a ggakji. In the records of the King Jeongjo period, various colored heopsu were mentioned; the colors of the dongdari and jeonbok of dangsanggwan and danghagwan were referenced in various colors. It was presented as an illustration of costumes that could be used to produce objects accurately reflecting the above historical results. The basic principle of the illustration was to present the modeling standards for 3D content production. Samples of form, color, and material of the corresponding times and statuses were presented. The front, the side, and the back of each costume and its accessories were presented, and the colors were presented in RGB and CMYK.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.305-321
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• 1998

The costume style of the Chosun dynasty changed greatly after Imjinwaeran (the Japanese Invasion of Chosun Korea, 1592∼1598). Most of the extant costumes come from the late Chosun, but some costumes produced be-fore Imjinwaeran have been excavated, and in addition, information on these older constumes is contained in contemporary literature. Of especial value in the study of pre-Imjinwaeran Chosun constumes is a mid-sixteenth century palace painting depicting the worship of Buddha, a painting in the collection of the Ho-Am Art Museum in Seoul. The present study of costume during the middle Chosun dynasty focuses on this painting, and compares it with other contemporary palace paintings, and with other contemporary palace paintings, and with Nectar Ritual Paintings. The following conclusion were drawn : * Concerning woman's hair styles of the time, married women wore a large wig. Un-married women braided their hair, and then either let it fall down their back or wore it coiled on top of their head. * The major characteristic of woman's costumes was a ample, tube-like silhouette, with the ratio of the Jeogori(Korean woman's jacket) and skirt being one-to-one. * The style of Jeogori in the painting was like that of excavated remains. Some Jeogoris were simple (without decoration), while some Jeogoris were worn with red sashes. Here we can confirm the continuity of ancient Korean costumes with those of the sixteenth century * Although the skirt covered the ankles, it did not touch the ground. Because the breadth of the skirt was not wide, it seems to have been for ordinary use. Colors of skirts were mainly white or light blue. * All men in the painting wore a headdress. Ordinary men, not Buddhist monks, wore Bok-du (headstring), Chorip (straw hat), or Heuk-rip (black hat). In this painting, men wore a Heukrip which had a round Mojeong (crown). * The men wore sashes fastened around their waist to close their coats, which was different from the late Chosun, in which men bound their sashes around their chest. That gave a ration of the bodice of the coat to the length of the skirt of one-to-one, which was consistent with that of woman's clothing. * In this painting, we cannot see the Buddhist monk's headdress that appeared later in the Chosun, such as Gokkal (peaked hat), Songnak (nun's hat), and Gamtu (horsehair cap). These kinds of headdresses, which appeared in paintings from the seventeenth century, were worn widely inside or outside the home. Buddhist monks wore a light blue long coat, called Jangsam (Buddhist monk's robe) and wore Gasa (Buddhist monk's cope), a kind of ceremonial wrap, round their body. We can see that the Gasa was very splendid in the early years of the Chosun dynasty, a continuing tradition of Buddhist monk's costumes from the Koryo dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.19
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• pp.141-155
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• 1992

The Buddhist costumes, unlike the ordinary ones, have not been studied comprehensively due to their religious, non-popular and non-social features. In this regard, this paper aimed at reviewing the styles and symbolic Characters of the monks' dancing costumes for the traditional Buddhist ceremony of 'Spirit Vulture Peak'(The Intangible Cultural Asset No.50.) Here, the 'Spirit Vulture Peak Ceremony' is a kind of Buddhist ceremony commemorating the Buddha's preaches on the peak of Mt. Grdhrakuta by means of symbolized ritual and reformation procedures. The methodology of this study depended on the research of literatures, personal observation of the actual ceremony and the discussion with Priest Park Song-am. The dancing style of the Ceremony can be divided into four categories; the cymbal dancing., the drum dancing , the butterfly dancing and the column-beating dancing. And for the dancing costumes, the loose ritual mantle, the long-sleeve robe and the buddhist costume are used; the loose mantle and the long-sleeve robe are for the drum dancing. The style of the loose mantle is rectangular, sewn every odd knot between 5 and 25 ones. According to the record, its color was initially grey or red-yellow, but varied depending on the local rules. The four corners of the loose mantle have a rectangular-cloth embroidery of sky & king patterns, and the center is embroidered with the Sun'Moon designs or 'Om/Nan' letters in the Korean spells. The light of Sun/ Moon designs symbolizing the sky and the earth respectively are indigenous to a particular school in Korea. The long-sleeve robe has a traditional over-coat style. and is called otherwise of if some design is added. The total clothing or dancing costumes for the Ceremony include 'the Dae-ryung (meaning great peake)loose mantle', 'the White Paldad(meaning Chinese Character eight) long-sleeve robe and the peaked hat. The Dae-ryung mantle is a kind of ritual costumes with the shorter length than the ordinary mantles, and has a character 'Ryung' in Chinese spell attached with three to six colors. The White Paldae robe is shorter than the ordinary robes in the total length but longer in the length of sleeves. It is put on over the mantle from the left shoulder, and used often for the butterfly and column-beating dancings. It is hoped that this study will promote the study on the customs and rites of the Buddhism rather than on the thoughts, and contribute to the further studies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.70-80
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate types and formative characteristics of 'Seon' represented of costume in Water-moon Avalokitesvara of the late Koryo Dynasty. The results were as follows; 'Seon' has two main types, Standard and Decoration types. In the former type, Seon has not any decoration. While, in the latter, Seon is added with decorations. Here, Seon of decoration type can be reclassified into two types, same color and pattern and different color and pattern. Seon most appeared in the Water-moon Avalokitesvara had the type of Decoration, especially different color and pattern. Patterns used for Seon were complex in its composition type and filling in its arrangement style. Seon was mainly used to Guneui(裙衣) and Samkaksika(僧脚崎). For the color combination of Seon, the combination of similar colors was most often used and that of same color was somewhat frequently done. Regarding costumes aesthetic characteristics in accordance with the type of Seon, those costumes appeared natural and elegant when their Seon was Standard in type, natural and brilliant when same color and pattern in type and artificial and brilliant when different color and pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.8
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• pp.100-113
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• 2011

The earlier notion of feminism regarding gender equality was changed into that of Postfeminism because of gender differences. The idea of Postfeminism has been present since the 1980s but has been influenced by modern culture theories such as Postmodernism, Poststructuralism, Theory of Power and Discourse and Psychoanalysis. Various features of Postfeminism are found in the medieval warrior images of contemporary fashion. Warrior costumes were men's exclusive property in the medieval ages, but as it is introduced as women's wear in the 21st century, it shows us new fashion images which are constructed by gender deconstruction, differences and pastiche. In this regard, the purpose of this study is to examine a key characteristic of Postfeminism fashion. An article described the historical costumes of medieval warriors and refocused on the development processes of feminism and then conducted an analysis on formative characteristics and Postfeminism tendencies in contemporary women's wear from 2000 to 2011. The results were that materials such as metallic and flexible materials, monotonic and red colors and detailed patterns of armor were used to display forms of exaggeration and restraint. These elements fully and correctly expressed the image of a medieval warrior woman in contemporary fashion. Postfeminism fashion is constructed with feminine power, gendered identity, sensual elegance and a postmodern body. Postfeminism is the contemporary cultural icon and is continuously influencing modern fashion design in the 21st century in a positive and powerful way.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.3 s.56
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• pp.425-438
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• 2005

This study is to examine the types of expression and aesthetic characteristics of on-line game characters by analyzing those game characters' body and their costume that appear in various domestic on-line game sites. It is shown in this study that types of the human bodies and costume expressed through the game characters are grouped into five categories such as exposure and tightness, enlargement and exaggeration, curtailment and simplification, gender stereotype and unification. Furthermore, there are four typical aesthetic characteristics resulting from those types of expressions; First, 'grotesque' is expressed in the form of extreme enlargement and exaggeration, extreme exposure and concealment, combined images among human, animal or machine, or monstrous devilish images. Second, in an effort to express 'eroticism', bodies are directly exposed, see-through costumes are used in order to emphasize the body lines or very tight designs are used. Third, 'futuristic' characteristics are shown through geometrical shape and silhouette, machine-like details, strong artificial colors or glossy hi-tech material. Lastly, 'pastiche' is expressed with reconciliation of variety of costumes of game characters. Various opposite or heterogeneous styles are combined or harmonized each other to show pastiche, of which examples are male and female, superior culture and inferior one, rich and poor, oriental and western, human and machine, human and nature or past and future, etc.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.35
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• pp.186-219
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• 2002

It is fortunate to glance at the old fabric style through the fabrics found in the Buddhist statues. There fore these fabrics deserve more attention and significance among the various remains found in the Buddhist Statues and should be taken carc of as the cultural inheritance. Concepts in the traditional fabrics could be viewed in three different aspects, In the first, the five primary elemental conception(五方思想) deeply rooted as the part of life style in old time appeared in five dircctional colors of the costumes whicb in turn connected to the traditional thought of order and harmony with nature. The second is the formal aspect. As can be seen in the fabrics found in the Buddhist statue, religious symbol was shaped into spiritual representation. The third is the aspect of the textile motifs, where wealth and preference for son were symbolized and even a utopia they dreamed for was appeared in the motif. Considering these conceptual aspects, the traditional textiles could be understood in line with the other cultural activity and should be taken more attention since the idea embeddcd in the textiles or colthes reveal the essential thoughts in old time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.2 s.92
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• pp.58-69
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to investigate types and formative characteristics of 'Seon' represented of costume in Amitabha of the late Koryo Dynasty. The results were as follows; The type of 'Seon' is classified into Standard, Decoration and Application types. According to three types, the types of the standard are subdivided into same rotor and no pattern and different color and no pattern, the types of the decoration are subdivided into same color and pattern and different color and pattern, And the types of the application are subdivided into wrinkle and beads-decorated wrinkle according to whether decorative beads exist or not. In the Standard type of Seon, same color and no pattern in the Decoration type of Seon, different color and pattern was most often used as its type while, in the applied type of Seon had its main type of beads-decorated wrinkle. Patterns used for Seon were complex in its composition type and filing in its arrangement style. Seon was used mainly for guneui(裙衣) and daeeui(大衣). The color arrangement of Seon, in most cases, used complementary colors, followed by same ones. Regarding costumes aesthetic characteristics in accordance with the type of Seon, those costumes appeared natural and plain when their Seon was same color and no pattern in type, artificial and plain when their Seon was different color and no pattern in type, natural and brilliant when same color and pattern in type and artificial and brilliant when different color and pattern. In regard to the applied type of Seon, such costumes looked sophisticated and delicate when their Seon was wrinkle in type and dynamic and decorative when beads-decorated wrinkle.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.7
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• pp.123-138
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• 2002

This study as one of a series of systematic studies about dancing costumes will compare the costumes of the 16th. 17th century with their normal style of dress. In brief. this study wants people to know about 16th, 17th century court dancing costumes and to understand the culture in the 16th.17th century. From the comparison between the court's dancing costume and the people's clothes, we could get the conclusion as follows. First, pourpoint. chemis, gown, chausses, etc. that people wore were used for the court's dancing costume. While people Pursued the beauty with the ample silhouette. there were used wrinkles. slits. and tailored oblique line-clothes that gave vitality. Second, silk. linen. brocade. etc. that were used for people's chemises were used for the dancing costume. The good quality and beautiful colors of the dancing costume. however. excelled than of the brilliant court's clothes and the people's clothes. Third. the hair style of dancers were very colorful. For example, there were many kinds of hats and furs, corals, etc. that were attached to them on the most of the long curly hair. In summary, for the court's dancing costume, the same type of clothes was used like the people's clothes. There, however, were differences. The slits, tailored oblique line-clothes and shortened skirt gave the activity. There were many decorations symbolizing the nobles' wealth and Power. Especially the use of the decoration of hair and other stake properties was an effective means for expression. The use of personified masks also contributed to the development of the court dance.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.57-70
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• 2016

Gutnori(ritual A Comparative Study on Shaman's Costume of south coast Byeolsingut in Korea and the Guizhou Nahui in China play) refers to a play in the form of showing actual appearance of god and actual comedic gag with gutguri rhythm. In order to carry out a comparison between the shaman's costume in Korea and China, this study will delve into the types of shaman costumes that are worn in the gutnoris(mask plays) performed in Korean guts and those of China performed in Nahui. As research method, literature reviews and field surveys have been conducted concurrently. In terms of literature reviews, previous research have been studied centrally. For field surveys, Korean gut, Byeolsingut performance was observed for 2 days 1 night between 1st Feb. 2014-2nd Feb. 2014 in the south coast and Chinese Nahui in Guizhou was observed for 2 days 1 night between 25th Nov. 2014-26th Nov. 2014. By comparing Shaman's costume that is worn in Korean shamanism with that of Chinese shamanism as a partial means of understanding the uniqueness of Korean shaman's costume, the following conclusion was derived upon focusing on the common types of gutnori costumes and organizing them. As a universal trait for shaman's costumes in gutnori and nahui in Korea and China, traditional clothing were worn. A unique trait for shaman's costume in gutnori and nahui in Korea and China, deity expressions were shown in both cases using colors.