• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.281-296
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• 2022

This study is designed to compensate for the lack of children's clothing relics from the early 18th century and to reproduce young upper-class girls' costume as hanbokcontent. The shapes and materials of costumes are based on the record of 『Sukjong-silrok』 in 1701 and the characteristics of adult ladie's costume relics in this period, but reproduced as miniatures of these relics as like Joseon children's clothing of another period. The reproduced costumes are formal wear for 3~4 year-old girls, consisting of yeoui [女衣], long unlined skirts, and lined skirts. Sizes were set at a height ratio of approximately 155:95. Yeoui is sam-hoejang-jeogori using pine pollen-colored damask with a grape-squirrel pattern and a purple damask with flower-treasure pattern. The full length of yeoui is 24.5cm. It has a square-dangko outer collar with square inner collar. The long unlined skirt is a six-width overskirt that is 82cm long, made with lotus patterned sa. The lined skirt is a five-width skirt that is 61.3cm made with flower-treasure patterned red damask and ju. Several long pleats on both sides of these two skirts have been omitted. The result provides meaningful content for children's clothing in the early 18^th century and will be used as costume for an educational trial performance.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.63-78
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• 2020

Korean Chinese, immigrants to China, have developed their own traditional costume culture. This paper aims to analyze the traditional costume culture of the Korean Chinese and to provide data for posterity. The research methods are literature research, survey research, and analysis research. The results are as follows: According to the changes over generations, the top of women's Hanbok has changed in length as has the jeogori (jacket), the git (collar), and the gooreum (breast-tie). The width of the git, dong-jeong (thin white cloth-covered paper collar of Hanbok), the sleeve, and gooreum have also changed. The git and the barae (the curve part of the sleeve) have changed from straight patterns to curves. The skirt had changed in wrinkles arrangement, length, and silhouette. The men's Hanbok jeogori and sleeves were lengthened; the pants became wider and were lengthened, and the collar also became curved. The vest has not changed and the du-ru-ma-gi (coat) that once disappeared is being worn again; the bae-ja (vest) and magoja (over-jacket) are worn frequently in modern times. The garments mainly used natural fiber until the development of synthetic fibers, but the treand has been the use of luxurious natural fibers in modern times. The initial color pattern was achromatic, but that changed with the appearance of synthetic fibers, and nowadays it is mainly the garmetnt can display a variety of colors. In addition, hairstyles and shoes have been eveolved from traditional to modern styles.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.127-140
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• 1998

A study on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century based on the shrouds from excavated tomb of Kim, Heum-Jo(1461-1528) is reported in this paper. This study is aimed at establishing database for a traditional Korean costume construction and emphasizing the necessity for development of methodology in writing report from excavated costume including measuring, construction methods and materials. This paper includes examples of measured length for each part of 'Dan-Ryung', reconstructured drawings, pictures, and construction methods. The followings on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century are found in this study: 1) Dan-Ryung robes were made of less expensive hemp, cotton, silk & cotton, and ramie & silk. 2) As a whole, Dan-Ryung was lengthy and spacious and it had straighter and narrower sleeves when compared to the ones from the late Chosun. 3) There existed Moo which was large rectangular guest with double pleats at Dan-Ryung's side seam. Its round collar was constructed with a 3 cm width bias. Ball buttons on the outer collar and loops on the right shoulder are attached. 4) There existed a pair of indirectly attached slim and short strings. Inside string is directly attached. 5) Inside of the shoulder, a U-shaped shoulder pad made of the same cloth as the inner cloth was attached. hand sewing methods used include delicate flat-felled seam stitch, back-stitch and sew-up stitch.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.933-945
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• 1997

The purpose of the study was to investigate types of uniforms which were considered as appropriate, functional, and/or power look. Also, the possibility of acceptance of a pantsuit for uniforms was examined. For the study, a questionnaire was developed by the researcher. The subjects were asked to select appropriate, function Al, or power look among combinations of: 1) two types of jackets with different shoulder width (natural, wide) and two types bottoms(pants, skirt) : 2) blouses with three different collars (ribbon, convertible, tailored) and two types of bottoms (pants, skirt) . The majority (89%) of subjects were 185 male and 182 female white-collar workers. For the ststistical analysis, Chi-square, one-way ANOVA, and t-test were used. The results of the study were: 1) For a uniform, a skirted suit was considered as being appropriate and powerful, and pants were regarded as being functional. 2) A jacket with natural shoulders was viewed as an appropriate and functional uniform, and a jacket with wide shoulders as power look. 3) A blouse with a convertible collar was regarded as an appropriate and functioal uniform, and a tailored collared-blouse evaluated as power look.

• 복식
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• 제36권
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• pp.139-148
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• 1998

In order to know what sorts of features of neck form may be required to make plans for tight collars, the neck form of young japanese women were measured three demension-ally using GRASP(Grating Projection System for Profiling) and plaster torso. By the BASIC language in NEC computer and EXCEL program in MACINTOSHI computer, it became possible to draft a number of neck surface auomatically, therefore, we got analysis of a mass of subjects. Thed following results were obtained: 1. There was a large individual difference in the shape of neck, in particular, on the front and side curves of the neck base line, where the undulation of clavicular part of neck and inclination of shoulder are refracted. 2. When designing a stand collar, from the viewpoint of clothing strcture, it is important to grasp exactly the shapes of the neck, such as the line of the neck base, the neck gradient, back neck length, back neck width & girth. 3. According to the somatotypes(turing-over, standard, bending type), there were different the method of the basic collar pattern making.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.55-79
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• 2000

This study is the design research for the practical use of Casual Hanbok. The conclusion of basic research for Casual Hanbok design reads as follows. Today's college women are fairly positive to the practical use of Casual Hanbok. Especially, they are strongly interested in the new design and have the active intention to wear it on actually. The concrete design of every parts of Casual Hanbok which is wanted by college women is as follows. Firstly, college women like well matched two-piece dress style in colors. And they want to decide the coloration independently than to follow the traditional coloration passively. Secondly, according to the design of jacket, sometimes they like the presence of a collar, a collar strip, a gore etc. and at other times they like absence of them. Thirdly, the side line of jacket they like and the seam line of sleeve they like is smoothly curved one and the adjusting means they like is a fancy button. Fourthly, the length of jacket they like reaches to their waist and the width of an armhole they like must be convenient for moving of arm. Fifthly, one out of two college women likes mixed spinning fabrics as material for jacket, skirt, pants. In the other hand, one out of five college women likes cotton. Sixthly, the skirt style they like is A ­line one having from two to four gathers on the waist and the length of skirt they like reaches to their ankle or calf of the leg. Seventhly, the pants style they like is the western style but the hem line of pants is the korean traditional pants style.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권3호
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• pp.388-405
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• 2021

This study classifies the compositional methods of power shoulder jackets from 1980 to the present. It analyzes the relevance of jacket details according to how the power shoulder changes and its compositional methods by era. The research subdivides shoulder compositional techniques into seven, based on shoulder variation, sleeve variation, and the body and sleeve combination. The researcher investigates the frequency and trends of composing shoulders and analyzes details pertaining to the silhouette, jacket length, collar shape, and front closure. The most common method of shoulder composition is an angular shoulder variation. The others are a rounded shoulder variation, puffed sleeve, sleeve variation using pattern incision, raglan and kimono sleeves, and a shoulder variation that expanded the angle and width. The frequency differs slightly for each era. The relationship between shoulder compositional methods and details of power shoulder jackets is statistically significant, showing period-related differences. The homogeneity analysis results reveal that the shoulder composition of power shoulder jackets, the times, and details fall into distinct groups. This analysis shows that the silhouette, length, collar, and front closure of the power shoulder jacket differ depending on the power shoulder's compositional methods. Moreover, the shape of the power shoulder jacket is distinctly different. One can use this data to help develop the power shoulder jacket design by reflecting the details of shoulder compositional methods and changing trends over time.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제46권2호
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• pp.250-271
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• 2022

Traditional wedding dresses have had a high market demand in China in recent years. Traditional wedding dresses from the Tang dynasty occupy an important position among traditional Chinese dresses, and they are also favored by young women. This study was conducted to develop the rushan and qun patterns of traditional wedding dress styles from the Tang dynasty for women in their twenties in China. For this purpose, the rushan and qun patterns of Tang and Song dynasty dresses and modern traditional dresses were collected and analyzed. Additionally, the developed patterns were validated for suitability through appearance evaluations of virtual and real fittings. The following proportions of the developed patterns were proposed: H/3.3 for rushan length, H/33 for collar width, H/1.08 for total sleeve length, H/6 for sleeve width, H/8.5 for sleeve hem width, and H/1.55 for qun length. In addition, the developed patterns received high scores in the appearance evaluations of the virtual and real fittings. Therefore, the developed rushan and qun patterns are expected to have high utility in the current traditional wedding dress industry.

• 한국자원식물학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.7-11
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• 2007

우량품종 육성을 위해 선발된 헛개나무 차대묘 20가계의 생장특성과 엽특성을 조사한 결과, 전체 평균 묘고는 61.6cm, 평균 근원직경은 6.98mm였으며, 가계별로는 KW 2-5 가계가 평균 묘고 79.3cm로 가장 우수한 생장을 보인 반면 근원직경에서는 JN 2-2 가계가 평균 9.16mm로 가장 우수한 생장을 나타내었다. 묘고와 근원직경에서 가장 우수한 생장을 보인 KW 2-5와 JN 2-2 가계는 가장 낮은 생장을 보인 가계들과 비교하여 각각 57%와 53%의 우수한 생장을 보였다. 묘고와 근원직경의 초기생장 상위 10% 가계를 선발했을 때 KW 2-5와 JN 2-2 가계가 전체 가계 평균에 비해 125%의 선발 효과를 보였으며, 상위 20% 가계를 선발했을 때 KW 2-5, JN 2-2, KW 1-1, KW 1-15 가계에서 115%의 선발효과를 나타냈다. 한편, 엽장과 엽폭, 엽병길이와 엽병직경 및 엽형지수와 측맥수 등 6항목에 대하여 엽특성을 조사한 결과, 평균 변이계수는 $9.4{\sim}42.4%$로 나타나 변이 폭이 큰것을 알 수 있었으며 특히, 엽병길이와 엽병직경 특성의 변이계수가 각각 42.4%와 28.7%로 다른 특성들에 비해 큰 값을 나타냈다. 조사된 엽특성들은 모두 가계간 유의적 차이가 인정되었으며, 엽장과 엽형지수간 상관을 제외한 모든 특성들간의 상관에서는 정의상관 관계가 인정되었고 특히, 엽장과 엽폭특성간의 상관계수가 0.8049로 나타나 두 특성간에 매우 유의적인 관계가 있는 것으로 나타났다.

• 농업과학연구
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• 제41권3호
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• pp.229-236
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• 2014

This study presents the estimates of heritabilities of body measurement traits and carcass traits, and genetic and phenotypic correlations of those traits for crossbred pigs in Korea. Body and ultrasound (A mode: Piglog 105) measurements in 221 pigs including body weight, length, height and width, three back fat thickness at the points of 4th, 14th rib and chine bone, eye muscle area and lean meat percent were collected at the ages of 70, 145 and 180 days and then slaughtered to measure carcass weight, back fat, belly, collar butt, spare rib, picnic shoulder, hind leg, loin, tenderloin, lean meat yield and intramuscular rough fat content in loin. Genetic analysis was done using a multi-trait animal model. Heritabilties of the body measurements were ranged from 0.331 to 0.559 and three measurements of back fat thickness were also high as range varying from 0.402 to 0.475 for the ages of 145 and 180 days. However, eye muscle area was moderate (0.296) at the age of 180 days. Heritabilities of retail cut yields were also high as ranged from 0.387 to 0.474 and of IMF content in loin was 0.499. Heritabilities of the cut percent traits were ranged from 0.249 to 0.488. Important positive genetic and phenotypic correlations were noted for all carcass yield traits (0.298 to 0.875 and 0.432 to 0.922, respectively). IMF showed low negative genetic correlations with carcass yield traits, such as carcass weight, picnic shoulder, hind leg, loin, tenderloin and lean meat yield whereas low positive genetic correlations with back fat, belly, collar butt and spare rib. Loin, tenderloin and lean meat percent showed negative genetic correlations with carcass weight, back fat thickness, collar butt, spare rib and picnic shoulder percent. The four body measurements at the ages of 70, 145 and 180 days had positive genetic correlations with belly, shoulder butt, spare rib, picnic shoulder and hind leg percent, but negative genetic correlations were shown with loin and tenderloin percent except body measurements at 70 days. The results suggest that carcass yield are negatively correlated with intramuscular fat content, which is a major factor deciding pork quality and the yield of loin and tenderloin are not increased as much as increase in body size. However, the proportions of belly and collar butt are increased with the body size. In conclusion, selection strategy should be designed according to the preference on composition of carcass in each country.