• Journal of Life Science
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• v.33 no.5
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• pp.406-413
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• 2023

In this study, the various physiological and anti-inflammatory activities of Sanguisorba officinalis L. roots (SR) were assessed for potential use as functional cosmetic materials. As a result of measuring electron-donating abilities to determine the antioxidant ability of SR extract, activity increased as the concentration increased, showing an excellent antioxidant capacity of 93.8% at a 1,000 ㎍/ml concentration. Further, the antioxidant power of SR extract, which was determined using an ABTS⁺ assay measurement, was more than 99% at concentrations of 50 ㎍/ml or more, while the tyrosinase inhibition rate was 37.7% at the highest concentration of 1,000 ㎍/ml. Consequently, the elastase and collagenase inhibition of SR extract measured 84.9% and 90.3%, respectively, at a 1,000-㎍/ml concentration. As a result of confirming the survival rate of Raw 264.7 cells, the cell survival rate was determined to be 80% or more below a 100 ㎍/ml concentration, and subsequent cell-related experiments were conducted at concentrations below 100 ㎍/ml. Furthermore, after applying a NO assay to identify anti-inflammatory activity, it was confirmed that SR extract had an inhibitory rate of 50.8% at a concentration of 500 ㎍/ml, and it was excellent at suppressing the inflammatory expression. As a result of verifying protein expression by treating SR extract in Raw 264.7 cells, it was confirmed that expression was inhibited concentrated in all factors. Therefore, it is judged that SR can be used as a functional cosmetic material with antioxidant, whitening, and wrinkle-improving physiological effects and anti-inflammatory activities.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.3 s.47
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• pp.393-397
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• 2004

L-Carnitine $({\beta}-hydroxy-{\gamma}-trimethyl-ammoniumbutyric{\;}acid)$ is a small water-soluble molecule important in mammalian fat metabolism. It is essential for the normal oxidation of fatty acids by the mitochondria, and is involved in the trans-esterification and excretion of acyl-CoA esters. In this paper, to investigate the relationship between aging and L-carnitine, we investigated the effects of in vitro matrix-metalloproteinase (MMP) inhibition and activity and expression of UYA-induced MMPs in human skin fibroblasts. Also, we studied to develop as anti-aging cosmetics with L-carnitine. Fluorometric assays of the proteolytic activities of MMP-1 (collagenase) were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. ELISA (enzyme linked immune sorbent assay), gelatin-substrate zymography, RT-PCR ELISA techniques were used for the effects of L-carnitine on MMP expression, activity, and MMP mRNA expression in UVA irradiated fibroblast $(5\;J/cm^2)$, respectively. In addition, we performed clinical study with L-carnitine cream. L-carnitine inhibited the activities of MMP-1 in a dose-dependent manner and the $IC_{50}$ values calculated from semi-log plots were 2.45 mM, and L-carnitine showed strong inhibition on MMP-2 (gelatinase) activity in UVA irradiated fibroblast by zymography. Also, UVA induced MMP-1, 2 expression was reduced $43\%,\;53\%$ by treated with L-carnitine at 1.25 mM, and MMP-1 mRNA expression was reduced dose-dependent manner. Therefore L-carnitine was able to significantly inhibit the MMP activity, and regulate MMP expression in protein and mRNA level. The results of clinical study showed that $1.0\%$ L-carnitine treated group reduced wrinkle significantly compared with placebo treated group (P<0.05). All these results suggest that L-carnitine may be useful as new anti-aging cosmetics for protection against UVA induced Mm expression and activity.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.281-287
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• 2021

In this study, we analyzed the cosmetic applicability of extract from snow tea, native to Lijiang, Yunnan-province, China. After confirming the species as N. grossedentata through DNA analysis of Lijiang snow tea, experiments were conducted using representative tea, green tea, and a representative control group for each efficacy analysis. Both teas were extracted using 70% (v/v) ethanol aqueous solution. The polyphenol content in the Lijiang snow tea extract (gallic acid equivalent, 23.9 ± 3.2 mg/mL) was higher than that in green tea extract (16.4 ± 2.3 mg/mL). In contrast, the antioxidant (Radical scavenging, IC₅₀ 104 ㎍/mL), tyrosinase enzyme inhibitory (whitening agent, IC₅₀ 40.7 ㎍/mL), and Escherichia coli growth inhibitory (preservative) activities (IC₅₀ 2.85 mg/mL) were analyzed based on the solid content in the extract, and it was confirmed that the activities of Lijiang snow tea extract were superior to those of green tea extract (radical scavenging, IC₅₀ 234 ㎍/mL. It also showed similar efficacy to previously used active substances such as antioxidants (vitamin C, IC₅₀ 108 ㎍/mL), whitening agents (vitamin C, IC₅₀ 80㎍/mL), and preservatives (methylparaben, IC₅₀ 4.35 mg/mL). However, green tea was found to be better in collagenase inhibition activity (anti-wrinkle). Through this study, the cosmetic application potential of Lijiang snow tea is high.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.219-226
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• 2011

The Echinacea, which has been commonly known as a species of composite herb of dicotyledonous plant, has been used in native American traditional medicine for the treatment of diseases like colds or other infections in North America. We artificially cultured the adventitious roots of Echinacea angustifolia using the bioreactor culture system from Echinacea angustifolia and evaluated the efficacy as a cosmetic ingredient for skin care. Several studies previously have reported neogenesis, wound healing and inflammatory inhibition effect of Echinacea angustifolia but other efficacies were not well known. In the present study, we investigated the cosmetic efficacy to know applicable value of adventitious roots cultured from Echinacea angustifolia as a cosmetic ingredient. The adventitious roots extract of Echinacea angustifolia has superior anti-oxidant effect and matrix metalloproteinase-2 inhibitory effect, compared to natural Echinacea angustifolia. These results indicate that the adventitious roots extract cultured from Echinacea angustifolia presents a new possibility of being applicable to skin care and anti-wrinkle products as a cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.63-71
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• 2004

The human skin is constantly exposed to environmental irritants such as ultraviolet, smoke, chemicals. Free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by these environmental facts play critical roles in cellular damage. These irritants are in themselves damaging to the skin structure but they also participate the immensely complex inflammatory reaction. The purpose of this study was to investigate the skin cell protective effect of Juniperus chinensis xylem extract on the UV and SLS-induced skin cell damages. We tested free radical and superoxide scavenging effect in vitro. We found that Juniperus chinensis xylem extracts had potent radical scavenging effect by 98％ at 100 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL. Fluorometric assays of the proteolytic activities of matrix metalloproteinase-l(MMP-1, collagenase) were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. UV A induced MMP-1 synthesis and activity were analyzed by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) and gelatin-based zymography in skin fibroblasts. The extract of Juniperus chinensis showed strong inhibitory effect on MMP-1 activities by 97％ at 100 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL and suppressed the UVA induced expression of MMP-1 by 79％ at 25 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL. This extract also showed strong inhibition on MMP-2 activity in UVA irradiated fibroblast by zymography. We also examined anti-inflammatory effects by the determination test of proinflammatory cytokine, interleukin 6 in HaCaT keratinocytes. In this test Juniperus chinensis decreased expression of interleukin 6 about 30％. Expression of prostaglandin E$_2$, (PGE$_2$) after UVB irradiation was measured by competitive enzyme immunoassay (EIA) using PGE$_2$ monoclonal antibody. At the concentrations of 5-50 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL of the extracts, the production of PGE$_2$ by HaCaT keratinocytes (24 hours after 10 mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$ UVB irradiation) was significantly inhibited in culture supernatants (p〈0.05). The viability of cultured HaCaT keratinocytes was significantly reduced at the doses of above 10 mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$ of UVB irradiation, but the presence of these extracts improved cell viability comparing to control after UVB irradiation. We also investigated the protective effect of this extract in sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)-induced irritant skin reactions from 24 hour exposure. Twice a day application of the extract for reducing local inflammation in human skin was done. Irritant reactions were assessed by various aspects of skin condition, that is, erythema (skin color reflectance) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). After 5 days the extract was found to reduce SLS-induced skin erythema and improve barrier regeneration when compared to untreated symmetrical test site. In conclusion, our results suggest that Juniperus chinensis can be effectively used for the prevention of UV and SLS-induced adverse skin reactions such as radical production, inflammation and skin cell damage.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.227-233
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• 2004

Chronic exposure to solar radiation, particularly ultraviolet (UV) light, causes a variety of adverse reactions on human skin, such as sunburn, photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. Free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by UV exposure or other environmental facts play critical roles in cellular damage. And, repeated-UV irradiation activated the expression of the matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) and induced skin irritation. Therefore, the development of effective and safe photoprotectants that can reduce and improve the skin damage has been required. The purpose of this study was to investigate the photo-protective effect of several chinese medical plants (Juniperus chinensis) on the UV -induced skin cell damages. We tested free radical and superoxide scavenging effect in vitro. Fluorometric assays of the proteolytic activities of MMP-1 (collagenase) were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. UVA induced MMP-1 synthesis and activity were analyzed by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) and gelatin-based zymography in skin fibroblasts. We also examined anti-inflammatory effects by the determination test of proinflammatory cytokine, interleukin 6 in HaCaT keratinocytes. Expression of prostaglandin E$_2$ (PGE$_2$) after UVB irradiation was measured by competitive enzyme immunoassay(EIA) using PGE$_2$ monoclonal antibody. In the human skin we tested anti-irritation effect on the SLS-induced damage skin after appling the extract containing emulsion. We found that Juniperus chinensis extract had potent radical scavenging effect by 98% at 100$\mu\textrm{g}$/mL. The extract of Juniperus chinensis showed strong inhibitory effect on MMP-1 activities by 97% at 100 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL and suppressed the UVA induced expression of MMP-1 by 79% at 25$\mu\textrm{g}$/mL. This extract also showed strong inhibition on MMP-2 activity in UVA irradiated fibroblast by zymography. In the test of proinflammatory cytokines of human keratinocytes Juniperus chinensis extract decreased expression of interleukin 6 about 30%. The amount of PGE$_2$ by HaCaT keratinocytes was significantly increased at the doses of above 10 mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$ of UVB (p < 0.05). At the concentrations of 3.2-25$\mu\textrm{g}$/mL of this extract, the production of PGE$_2$ by HaCaT keratinocytes (24 h after 10mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$ UVB irradiation) was significantly inhibited in culture supernatants (p < 0.05). In SLS-induced skin irritation model in vivo, we found to reduce skin erythema and improve barrier recovery after appling Juniperus chinensis extract containing emulsion when compared to irritated non-treated and placebo-treated skin. Our results suggest that Juniperus chinensis extract can be effectively used for the prevention of UV and SLS-induced adverse skin reactions and applied as anti-aging and anti-irritation cosmetics.