• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.110-117
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• 2010

Recently, there is a trend to utilize natural dyes in many dyeing fields. In this work, the effects of benzyl alcohol in human hair dyeing with cochineal, a natural dye, was investigated. We investigated the K/S value and color value of dyed hair, water retention of dyed hair, protein release-ability of dyed hair, and wash fastness of dyed hair according to dyeing time and temperature. The shade of dyed hair was reddish. By adding benzyl alcohol in cochineal dyeing, the dyeing rate was increased and the dyeing equilibrium was established at early stage. The water retention of dyed hair was increased and the protein release-ability of dyed hair was decreased, meaning that the hair was less damaged during dyeing, The dyed hair showed a good wash fastness.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.114-124
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• 2005

Based on the previous study, three types at synthetic fibers comprising nylon, PET, and acrylic fibers were investigated in this study. The effect at mordanting on the air-permeability and dyeing properties at fabrics was investigated. The effect at rinsing process on the air-permeability and color was quantitatively investigated by rinsing the mordanted fabric specimens 1$\sim$3 times after mordanting. The air-permeability changed peculiarly according to the characteristics of the tiber materials after mordanting. The air-permeability values of nylon and acrylic fabric specimens dropped significantly after mordanting. On the other hand, those of PET fabric specimens hardly changed after mordanting. The metal ions absorbed on the fibers of nylon and acrylic fabrics did not show the mordanting effect. Regardless of mordanting, cochineal dyestuff made direct links with the molecular chains in nylon fabrics exhibiting dark colors. After dyeing acrylic fabrics, the color did not develop at all, even though partial components of the cochineal dyestuff were absorbed apparently.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.817-824
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• 2016

The introduction of natural dyes into modern dye houses is very promising green chemistry concept that should be popularized more to reduce the dependency of leather dyeing on some toxic and non-biodegradable synthetic dyes. In this study, the properties of dyeing of cochineal on cow leather were evaluated. The proper dyeing conditions were identified with dye uptake (K/S values) depending on the colorant concentration, dyeing duration, dyeing temperature, and dye bath pH. For the proper mordanting conditions, color changes for different mordants were observed as $La^{*}b^{*}$ and H V/C values. Color fastness (light, rubbing, and dry cleaning) was also examined. Additionally, antibacterial properties and UV protection were examined. The results were as follows: The optimized dyeing conditions were 300% o.w.f., $40^{\circ}C$, 40 min., and pH 5. The cow leather color was red in the absence of mordanting, while it was red purple after being mordanted with Al and Cu, and purple mordanted with Fe. The K/S value of cow leathers increased in the order of the dyeing using $AlK(SO_4)_2$ > $CuSO_4$ > $FeSO_4$. The colorfastness to light and rubbing were reduced compared to original (untreated) cow leather. However dry cleaning fastness was very satisfactory, with a 4~5 rating. The dyed and pre-mordanting dyed cow leather showed excellent antibacterial properties.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제43권7호
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• pp.109-116
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• 2005

Using buffer solutions, consisting of pH 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8, silk fiber fabric specimens, pre-mordanted with one of the mordanting agents, Sn, Al, Cu, Cr, and Fe, were dyed using cochineal dyestuff. The color of the dyed silk fabric specimens was predominantly red(R) for the acidic range of pH 4 and 5, and predominantly purple(RP) for the neutral range of pH 6,7, with 8, with the pH boundary differentiating between the shades being between pH 5 and 6. As a general trend, the chroma value decreased as the pH changed from acid to alkali, and the highest chroma value us attained between pH 4 and 5. Regardless of the mordanting conditions, the trend was that $ {\Delta}E$ showed the highest measured value in the acidic range of pH 4 and 5, and it dropped abruptly after the pH 6.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.248-254
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• 2005

In this study, wool fabric specimens were pre-mordanted using Sn, Al, Cu, Cr, and Fe, and subsequently dyed using cochineal, maintaining the pH of the dye bath constant using pH buffer solutions of 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. In the case of wool fabric specimen, regardless of the type of mordanting agents, peak dye-uptake amount was obtained at the acidic region, pH 4, and above pH 6, the dye-uptake amount decreased remarkably. Differing from the cotton fabric case, the dyed wool fabric specimen exhibited red shade even in the case of non-mordanting, at the region of pH values of 4 and 5. It is presumed that in the acidic dye bath the effect of cationic amine group present in the structure of wool fiber molecules took place. The amount of color difference, among the mordanting agents, due to the increase of pH value, was highest for the Fe mordanting case. It seems, therefore, that the Fe mordanting is affected most by the pH value.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.137-145
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• 2004

According to the experimental results, it has been reported by several researchers that the air-permeability values of the fabrics mostly decreased by the mordanting during the dyeing procedure. The exact quantitative information, however, has not been presented so far. In this study, the change of the fabric air-permeability was investigated quantitatively. At the same time, the change of the fabric air-permeability according to the dyeing procedure. In order to investigate the possibility of the detachment of the metal ions on the fiber or fabric surface, the change of the air-permeability was investigated after several rinsing of the mordanted fabrics. By comparing the color differences of the cochineal dyed fabrics which were subjected to rinsing procedure after mordanting, the effect of the rinsing of the mordanted fabrics on the dyeing of fabrics was investigated. At the range of mordant concentration, 2% Cu, 2% Sn, 2% Fe, 2% Cr, 5% Al, the metal ions are not excessively absorbed on the fiber surface. Also, any remarkable detachment of the metal ions does not accompany after the mordanting with the subsequent rinsing procedure.

• 한국의상디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국의상디자인학회 2004년도 International Conference & Exhibition
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• pp.101-104
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• 2004

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.99-113
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• 2005

Recently, problems related to the natural dyeing have been addressed. Severer problems have been posed by the elution at metallic ions and dyestuff tram dyed fabrics. In order to prevent the elution tram the dyed fabrics, it is needed to improve the fastness. Especially, it is the most important measure to improve the fastness to perspiration in terms at human body safety. In this study, we employed chitosan pretreatment method bet ore the dyeing process, anticipating that the pretreatment might improve the fastness. We used Al, Sn, and Cu as mordants and investigated the fastness to light and perspiration of the chitosan treated and dyed fabric specimens. By the chitosan pretreatment, the fastness to perspiration improved, while the fastness to light did not.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.71-83
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• 2005

In this study, we reviewed the color changes accompanying the laundering, wash fastness, and abrasion fastness of chitosan-treated cochineal-dyed fabrics. The treatment methods were classified into two based on the chitosan treatment: (Method 1): fabric specimens were pre-treated with chitosan prior to the dyeing procedure in salt form. (Method 2): the state of chitosan acid salt formation, coated on the yarn surface, was destroyed and neutralized prior to the dyeing process. The changes in the chitosan treatment methods bear more important meaning in view of the durability. In Method 1, it is highly likely for the chitosan to be detached from the surface by water during laundering since the chitosan is coated as acid salt state. In Method 2, the resistance d the chitosan to water was supposed to revive since the chitosan would return to its original state. Differences in the resistance of the chitosan treatrrent, however, according to the Method 1 and Method 2, fell short of our expectations. In Method 2, the wash fastness did not improve as we expected since the bond between the fibers comprising fabric specimens and the chitosan is not high even if the chitosan itself has high resistance to water.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.240-247
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• 2005

In this study, cotton fabric specimens were pre-mordanted using Sn, Al, Cu, Cr, and Fe, and subsequently dyed using cochineal, maintaining the pH of the dye bath constant using pH buffer solutions of 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. In the cases of Al, Cr, and Sn mordanting, the dye-uptake was well accomplished in the acidic range of pH 4 and 5. However, the dye-uptake was not accomplished in the range over pH 6. In the cases of Cu and Fe mordanting, however, the pH value did not affect the dye-uptake and the dyeability in the alkaline range was not decreased remarkably. In the case of non-mordant, the dye-uptake was not accomplished at all, and the Cu and Fe mordanting gave rise to the best dyeability. In the cases of non-mordanting and Al, Cu mordanting, there was no change in the $\lambda_{max}$, and in the cases of Sn and Cr mordanting, the $\lambda_{max}$ moved toward the shorter wavelength. In the case of Fe mordanting only, the $\lambda_{max}$ moved gradually toward the longer wavelength, and due to the pH effect deep-dyeing effect was revealed.