• 복식
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• 제20권
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• pp.49-62
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• 1993

The purpose of this research was to utilize of Pattern Design System(P.D.S) by using AM-300 The conclusion were like these : 1. A coat of basic pattern was selected by design sketch. 2. The basic pattern was input into computer by digitizing. 3. The basic pattern was change into designed shape by using various skills. This system were enabled to draw straight lines, curves, delete lines, sections of lines, extend lines, cut pattern into sections, measure line or section reproduce whole pattern shape of section, rotate and mirror pattern and complete patterns. 4. Automatic grading of finished master pattern have been developed by creation and modification of grading rules of basic pattern. 5. Production pattern added seam allowance, not-ches was generated by P.D.S menu option. 6. Finished pattern design was plotted out 100% and 20% size by AM-300 Plotter. This results will be the basic materials to develop the CAD SYSTEM if some problems were improve. Furthermore, the utilization of P.D.S is expected to be developing in pattern making process.

• 복식
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• 제63권6호
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• pp.56-68
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• 2013

A purpose of this study is to do fundamental research of construction of coat patterns in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the costumes. This study is composed of literature research, investigation of artifacts, and experiment of pattern making. The results of this study are as follows. First, even if the 15th Court Dress Rules regulated color, fabric, number of flower, width of braid, and size of button, there was no regulation regarding the shape of the coat. The analysis of the photos in those periods shows that the style of the tailcoat was different from that of today in the length of the front, the shape of breast and collar. Second, six artifacts in the collection showed that the shoulder line and the sideline were located on the further rear side than the current tailcoat. This can be confirmed in the western and Japanese pattern book, and especially the pattern drafting method in the books published in Japan in 1900s is different from current one in setting base lines of front bodice and back bodice. As a result, based on several experiments, this study proposes how to make coat patterns. The shoulder line, the sideline, and the princess line should be located in the back of the dress similar to the shape of swallowtail coats of 1900s. The front bodice should be constructed without the composition line in order to add embroidery on it. The collar, which shape looks like long half moon, should form V-shape neckline in the front breast when adjusting dress. The sleeves should be constructed top and down, and it should curve more than the modern design.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.145-157
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to suggest new designs and patterns for men's coat by deconstructing and restructuring 18th and 19th century men's coat. In the postmodern society, the reinterpretation of the past fashion trends or items through extensive historical investigation has been frequently used as new design motifs and the new source of creative fashion design. Especially in the contemporary society, as multifarious forms and presentations are emphasized even in the men's fashion, it is urgently required more than ever to do thorough and extensive research for the design and structure of men's fashion. Therefore, through historical research on men's fashion, the 18th and 19th century men's coat, which is generally considered to be the most developed one in the concept and shape of 'coat,' has been reinterpreted and deconstructed to make new design for men's coat which corresponds to the trends and sensibility of contemporary fashion. In addition to this, to facilitate practical use of this new design by fashion public, the plane patterns for the actual production of these coat designs were presented.

• 복식
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• 제54권7호
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• pp.27-40
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• 2004

The purpose of this paper is to make it easy to reproduce the Pattern and sewing technique of men's coat in 18th century. which are modified in order to be made readily available in Korean theatre costume. The investigation was performed in three steps. 1st, The papers and records about development and change of men's coats were reviewed. End; The whole process of the way how to make a typical 18th century men's coats were sewn. 3rd ; The modification or revision into the more simplified pattern using by CAD system and sewing technique were suggested in detail. The size of the pattern in the original one, which we chose for this research, was generally small. with the side line being moved back a little. Moreover, arm movements were severely restricted because of the small arm-hole. The problems of original pattern were corrected by making both front and back pattern snug and side line being moved to the front, and making arm-hole wider. In the sewing technique, the simple way how to use of Padding, inter-linings and linings and to create the most noticeable figure of 18th century men's coat. This article may help theatre costume production in Korean performing art.

• 대한한의학회지
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.187-197
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• 1999

To assess the usefulness of tongue inspection for evaluating the Pattern identification in oriental medicine, we observed stroke patient's tongue and tongue coat and compared it with Pattern identification. The test group was composed of 85 acute stroke stage patients(within 72 hours of onset). Subjects were randomly selected from stroke patients admitted in the KyungHee University, Hospital of Oriental Medicine from December 1 1998 to June 30 1999. We took pictures of patient's tongue and tongue coat within 72hours from onset and checked Pattern identification at the same time. Tongues colored pale rose or red greatly outnumbered other colors. Tongue shape tended to be prickly or fissured, and tongue condition tended to be unflexible or deviated. Regarding tongue coat color, there were great amounts of yellow or clark yellow tongue coats, which were moist, thick or greasy in substance. The red tongue was significantly related to Fire-heat and deficiency of Yin syndrome, while faint white tongue to Damp syndrome(P=0.006). In terms of tongue coat, thin coat was related to Wind and Fire-heat syndromes, thick coat to Damp and Blood stasis syndrome, respectively (P=0.002). In conclusion, we thought that tongue inspection could be a useful Oriental medicine diagnosis in stroke.

• 한국수정란이식학회지
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• 제28권3호
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• pp.215-222
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• 2013

Bovine coat color is decided by the melanocortin receptor 1 (MC1R) genotype mutation and melanogenesis. Specially, in the various cattle breeds, dominant black coat color is expressed by dominant genotype of $E^D$, red or brown is expressed in the frame shift mutation of recessive homozygous e by base pair deletion and wild type of $E^+$ is expressed in various coat colors. However, not very well known about the effected of MC1R genotype mutation on the coat color through family lines in KBC. Therefore, this study were to investigate effect of MC1R genotype mutation on the coat color, and to suggest mating breed system in accordance with of MC1R genotype for increased on brindle coat color appearance. Parents (sire 2 heads and dam 3 heads) and offspring (total : 54 heads) from crossbreeding in KBC family line with the MC1R genotype and phenotype records were selected as experimental animals. The relationship between melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R) genotypes expression verified by PCR-RFLP, and brindle coat color appearance to the family line of the cross mating breed from MC1R genotype pattern was determined. As a result, 4MC1R genetic variations, $E^+/E^+$ (sire 1), $E^+/e$ (sire 2 and dam 3), $E^+/e$ with 4 bands of 174, 207 and 328 bp (dam 1) and $E^+/e$ with 3 bands of 174, 207, 328 and 535 bp (dam 2) from parents (sire and dam) of KBC. However, 3 genetic variations, e/e (24%), $E^+/E^+$ (22%) and $E^+/e$ (56%) were identified in offspring. Also, brindle coat color expressrated was the e/e with the 0%, $E^+/E^+$ with 67% and $E^+/e$ with 77% from MC1R genotype in offspring on the cross mating of KBC. Furthermore, when the sire had $E^+/e$ genotype and the dam had $E^+/E^+$ with the 3 bands or $E^+/e$ genotype, and both had whole body-brindle coat color, 62% of the offspring had whole body-brindle coat color. Therefore, the seresults, the mating system from MC1R genotype patterns of the sires ($E^+/e$) and dams ($E^+/E^+$ with the 3 bands or $E^+/e$) with brindle coat color may have the highest whole body-brindle coat color expression in their offspring.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.11-24
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• 2020

This research examines pattern production of 3 men's costumes in the second half of 19th century by 3D reconstruction to reveal technical aspects of mail costumes. The steps are as follows. First, an examination of selective type according to research study. Second, a pattern analysis of 3 historical male tops of 19th century referred to 9 pattern books of the France National Library collection. Third, a categorized type analysis that referred to paintings of the Musée d'Orsay collection. Fourth, a measurement and structure research of 3 historical garments of Fashion and Textile Museum collection. Fifth, the pattern making and fitting by 3D simulation. Research discussed the following subjects and results. First, main type of men's coat can be categorized by frac, redingote, jaquette, and veston. Second, the male costume pattern contained in pattern books was researched along with distinguished silhouettes and structures; X silhouette for frac and redingote, H silhouette for jaquette, and straight box silhouette for veston. Third, based on the analysis of representative type of men's costume per period conducted previous studies, 2 redingotes and a jaquette in the museum were selected and compared to other data such as image materials. Last, the following process was conducted for reconstruction; 'Drawing diagram-Primary pattern drafting by measurement value-3D virtual fitting-Checking the fit-Modification and complement'. We also obtained a 3D virtual reconstruction and a 2D research pattern that suggested a costume pattern by each type along with 3D reconstruction that included insights for male coat techniques of 19th century France.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.19-28
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• 2020

This study investigated the annual frequency and clothing type by extracting puff sleeves designs from overseas fashion collections from S/S and F/W 2017 to S/S and F/W 2019. Specifically, it analyzed production characteristics and pattern methods by the type of puff sleeve design, and found the following: In terms of the percentage of puff sleeves by season, S/S 2019 was the highest. Since Newtro, with a 1990s sensitivity, was the mainstream trend during the S/S 2019, power puff sleeves, a signature of the Newtro style, accounted for the greatest portion of this design feature. In terms of the type of clothes with puff sleeves, 'dress' (54.3%) was the highest, followed by 'shirts/blouse' (27.5%), 'jacket/coat' (12.5%), and 'padded coat/jacket' (5.7%). Specifically, puff sleeve patterns were found mostly in the 'dress' category, more than 47% every season, while the figures were more than 23%, 9.3%, and 2.6% in 'shirts/blouse', 'jacket/coat' and 'padded coat/jacket', respectively. In other words, puff sleeve designs were more common in 'dress' or 'shirts/blouse' than in a 'padded coat/jacket'. In general, the shoulder length is reduced to prevent the shoulders from looking broader because of puffs. In contrast, recent puff-sleeve styles differ from those introduced by modern fashion designers in that they have drop shoulders with puffs attached. Furthermore, as constructive and over-exaggerated sleeve patterns appeared, puffs were applied to diverse sleeve styles including mutton leg and Mameluke styles. The analysis results of this study will contribute to the development of the fashion industry through small quantity batch production pursuing unique styles and serve as the basis for further studies on the configuration methods of puff sleeves. This study will be used in various ways, including as educational material on sleeve patterns. Through the analysis of sleeve patterns, this study tries to provide basic data for planning the design of puff sleeves and helping to diversify the ladies' apparel market in the future.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.433-440
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• 2006

This research was made to suggest a functional and fitted prototype of swallow-tailed coat for sports dance. We established the basic posture of standard dance from literature investigations, and grasped the changes of the body side-surface by motions through the gypsum-experiments with a man in twenty. The unfolded gypsum shells were overlapped on the basic swallow-tailed coats pattern drafted by their size of experimenter. From our results through analysis, our pattern of the swallow-tailed coats for sports dance was designed considering their functional and structural character. In case of upper body with the greatly increased shoulder width of garment and with the decreased front. When moving, owing to the rising of the armpit point, the side-line becomes longer with the shoulder length decreased greatly. In case of sleeves, the length of sleeves back increased greatly by the arm-bending motions while sleeve height becomes lowered.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.846-852
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• 2012

Pets (such as dogs) are considered as important as family members, this perspective is due to an aging population and the decreased size of the traditional nuclear family. The pet industry has been growing every year; subsequently, is useful to develop practical patterns and designs appropriate for the body structure and movement of pet dogs. However, studies to develop a new form of pet dog's wear patterns and designs are limited. This study develops a basic pattern that is easily used based on a pet dog's size, designs popular clothing items for pet dogs, and helps in the manufactures of pet dog's wear. The results are as follow: 1) Analyzed categories and popular items of pet dog's wear from the research of the prior studies and on-line pet dog shopping malls; three categories (everyday wear, street wear, and special wear) and six items (T-shirt, one-piece, coat, jumper, and dress, tuxedo). 2) Developed the basic bodice pattern and sleeve pattern after test-wearing and revising the experimental patterns referenced from prior studies. 3) Developed patterns and designs for six popular items based on situation and gender: one-piece (everyday wear), coat (street wear), wedding dress (special wear) for female dogs/T-shirt (everyday wear), hood jumper (street wear), tuxedo (special wear) for male dogs. 4) Developed the previous six items to illustrate the research results of the study.