Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.28
no.8
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pp.1076-1087
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2004
The purpose of the study is to give new aesthetic values of black dress one of the important items in contemporary women's fashion. Through the work, to give the new aesthetic characteristics that women really needed can be found. This study was processed by fashion books and articles, literal material with fashion photos which were related fashion trend from 1920 to the present. The results are as follows: In early 20th century, the black dress, which had simple form pursuing function like little black dress. In the middle of the 20th century, elegance and minimalism was represented by black dress, expressed erotic images together with see-through fabrics. In the end of the 20th century, body conscious style of black dress expressed sensual images of women. Modem black dress has design characteristics of the form: simple, close, exposure type and of the materials: matte, transparent and dazzling etc. Simple type emphasizes feminine elegance, while close type and exposure type disclose woman body curve to express erotic images. Matte materials made black dress express feminine elegance while transparent materials and dazzling materials made black dress express erotic and sensual beauty. The aesthetic characteristics of black dress were as followings: Sensualism expresses sexual attractiveness of women-close type and exposure type black dress and see-through materials and dazzling materials made black dress. Simplicity of extreme decoration effects are expressed through black dress having temperate and simple form. Femineity expresses traditional femineity to emphasize chaste, modest and elegant women images-the black dress, which is made of simple form, velvet and satin materials. Modernism combines black colour, which is called modem colour, with simplicity and function factors and pursues simple form. Ascetic practice controls mental and physical desire of the individuals, simple form without decoration covering up woman body and box type silhouette of black dress. Therefore, the study on image of the black dress, which have made appearance at modern fashion, is thought to help develop fashion trends and design, through which modern women express themselves and their beauty.
The analysis and examination of this study are focussed on the external deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier. The external deconstruction is a way of expression faithful to the literal meaning of 'deconstruction' and is the applied case of exposure, destruction, poverty, and decomposition as they are. The method and scope of this study are from 1980's to present, and the followings are the results of this examination focussed on the various literature of philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and foreign fashion journals. The exposure phenomena through the deconstruction expressed repeatedly in the works of Gaultier deconstructed the fixed idea of 'the inner wear should be worn inside the outer wear' and at the same time denied the dichotomical interpretation of the exposure and suppression, the traditional beauty and decadent beauty, the chastity and unchastity, the asceticism and sexuality, and obscured the notion of the inner wear and outer wear. The destructive deconstruction expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier introduced the elements such as hippy, punk, and kitsch, slashed before making dresses, crumpled unseemly like wastepaper, or made dresses with textures like paper scraps, and through destroying textures, yielded shock effects and tension. Poverty, through borrowing from the outwardly poor-looking elements of design, i.e. the patch work, decolor, dye, fading, fringing, incompletion, and handmadeness, liberated dresses and their ornaments from the outside. The traditional dresses were dresses having certain forms with formative beauty, but Gaultier disassembled dresses and raised questions about the logic of dresses themselves.
The purpose of this study was to increase uv-cut ability of cotton, ramie, and rayon fabrics dyed with safflower red colorants. For this purpose, samples treated with uv-cut agent and tannic acid were compared with the untreated samples after ultraviolet(uv)-light exposure in terms of K/S value, color changes(${\Delta}E$), SEM, and tensile strength retention. K/S value rapidly decreased with increasing exposure time, but K/S value of the samples treated with both uv-cut agent and tannic acid decreased less than that of untreated samples. As increasing exposure time, $L^*$ and $b^*$ increased, $a^*$ decreased, and so ${\Delta}E$ increased, indicating less red character and more yellow character in color. This leads to change hue, value and chroma value. But color change of samples treated with both uv-cut agent and tannic acid was less than that of untreated samples. SEM pictures showed a severe degradation by uv exposure in all samples. Tensile strength slowly decreased for 21 days. And after this point, the decreased proceeded more rapidly. Tensile strength retention of the samples treated with uv-cut agent and tannic acid was higher than that of untreated samples.
Ratchadaporn Pengpan;Kulthida Y. Kopolrat;Sribud Srichaijaroonpong;Nutta Taneepanichskul;Patiwat Yasaka;Ratanee Kammoolkon
Journal of Preventive Medicine and Public Health
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v.57
no.1
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pp.73-82
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2024
Objectives: The unsafe use of pesticides in agriculture represents a major hazard to human health. This study was conducted to investigate the association between pesticide exposure and health symptoms among chili farmers in northeast Thailand. Methods: This cross-sectional analytic study included 141 chili farmers in Sakon Nakhon Province, in northeast Thailand. Data regarding health symptoms were gathered using a self-report questionnaire. A medical technician tested blood cholinesterase activity using an erythrocyte method, and an occupational medicine specialist at Ramathibodi Hospital in Bangkok, Thailand reviewed the results. Associations between personal characteristics, pesticide exposure factors, and health symptoms were analyzed using multiple logistic regression. Results: Of the 141 chili farmers studied, 66.7% experienced pesticide poisoning, as indicated by below-normal cholinesterase levels. Fatigue was the most frequently reported symptom associated with pesticide exposure, affecting 37.6% of participants. This was followed by nausea and vomiting (31.9%), dizziness (14.9%), and dry throat (14.9%). Multivariate logistic regression analysis revealed that several factors were significantly associated with adverse symptoms: amount of work experience, volume of pesticides used, use of chemical pesticides, use of leaking containers during spraying, direct pesticide exposure while working, contact with pesticide-soaked clothing, consumption of food and drinks in the fields, and blood cholinesterase level indicating risk. Conclusions: This study suggests potential health risks for chili farmers stemming from exposure to and contamination by pesticides used in agricultural practices. To mitigate these risks, it is essential to supply personal protective equipment and to implement educational programs aimed at improving protective behaviors among farmers.
This study was to investigate the human's physiological responses and subjective sensations with wear trial through seasonal condition by age. Climate chamber was set $5^{\circ}C$, RH 45% for winter and $30^{\circ}C$, RH 65% for summer condition. Thirty male subjects were volunteered consisted of 10 people in their 20s, 40s, and 60s. In this study physiological responses such as rectal temperature, skin temperature, clothing microclimate, heart rate and blood pressure were measured. As for age, 60s was the highest in rectal temperature regardless of seasonal condition. In skin temperature, 40s was the highest in winter and 20s was the highest in summer. In clothing microclimate temperature and heart rate, 20s was the highest regardless of seasonal condition. And blood pressure was appeared the highest in 20s regardless of seasonal condition. Subjective sensations such as temperature sensation, wetness sensation and thermal comfort were measured. The subjects revealed that temperature sensation was higher 20s than 60s. Compare of other age group, 60s felt colder in the same environment and clothing. It suggested that temperature susceptibility in 60s became weakened showing no change sensation during the cold exposure. Wetness sensation was higher 20s than 60s. Thermal comfort of 60s was felt more discomfortable than any other age group. This means require the supplement of a suitable clothing in order to adjust to change of environmental conditions.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.29
no.2
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pp.379-390
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2005
Every Society has it's own ideology and lifestyle and these form its unique aesthetic experience or values. In the paper observing recent, especially in 1980s and 1990s. Korean street fashion that is one way of expressing their values and lifestyle, the aesthetic values related to the morality have been studied. Through the studies using the cafes of Korean street fashion style we can understand the change of morality and fashion style according to the change of socio-cultural environments more deeply. For study methods documentary study and case study were executed. Morality related clothing were defined in detail through documentary studies and for analysis of street fashion from 1980s and 1990s the cases from 'Mut' and 'Ceci' magazines as well as the articles from Chosunilbo, Dongailbo and Maeilkyungje were looked over one by one. By understanding the intrinsic meanings and formal features of resent Korean street fashion, the direction for future fashion designing could be guided, which could satisfy consumers' needs in the rapidly changing world situation. Followings are the results of the study. First, morality of clothing could be defined in detail regarding modesty and extravagance. Modesty could be directly related to exposure of body and norms for appearances and extravagance to fashion oriented, luxury goods or brand name oriented and spending. Second, the exposing body has been accepted and permitted by public even with criticism more easily but they were less generous to values about norms regarding clothing. Third, the change of morality related to modest has happened earlier than the change of morality related to extravagance, which has begun very recently in 2000s.
Smart clothing products can experience a decrease in performance and reliability due to various mechanical, biological, and chemical stress factors that occur throughout their life cycle. These issues can hinder consumer acceptance of the products. This study aims to enhance the reliability of smart clothing and facilitate quality control by analyzing and identifying the current status of international standardization for smart clothing and electronic textiles (e-textiles). The focus of this analysis was on the durability test methods in the use environment. Furthermore, similar standards published by different standardization organizations for durability tests were compared in depth. The study showed that a total of 27 international standards have been developed or are currently under development. The current standardization efforts mainly aim to develop functionality and durability test methods for smart clothing and e-textile products. A detailed comparison was made between two international standards (IEC 63023-204-1:2023 and AATCC TM210:2019) specifically in relation to the washing durability test method and the electrical resistance measurement standards (BS EN 16812:2016 vs AATCC EP13-2021), before and after the environmental exposure tests. Based on this comparison, several suggestions have been made and discussed for the future revision of these international standards.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.29
no.5
s.142
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pp.626-636
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2005
These days. the representative fashion image is sexy look. Hence, a bodily exposure phenomenon has been spread by the effect of minimal fashion. In terms of this trend, the body make-up art such as the temporary painting have the painting dyeing the surface of skin has the characteristic naturally decolorized. It is different from tattoo pricking the skin with dyes. Especially, Henna among the temporary painting has been used to represent the individual characteristic for a long time. However, the research of henna pattern related to fashion images and korean traditional patterns has never been developed before within the country. In the research, we developed Korean Henna design through the application of Korean traditional patterns. First of all, a fashion image was classified as five parts (romantic, sexy, eligant, modem and casual) adopted by relebvant experts.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.18
no.4
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pp.460-472
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1994
The Purpose of this study was to find in the art the basis of originality appeared on the fashion design and investigating the erotic expression appeared on the ornaments how art surrealism, pop art, post moderninism-formularize in the modern fashion. This study about the expression of eroticism and modren costume, through the source of pictures contained in art books and mode magazine and documents investingation has resulted as follows: First, the formality and contents that related art and fashion shows us a various aspect. That based on modeled characteristic and various technique of the art. Second, the expression of eroticism in fashion expressed differently in style, material and expression method that is more strongly, sometimes metaphorically with spirit of the time's. Third, the expression of eroticism in fashion whether direct way or symbolic way has appeared as partial exposure of the body. It is appearing to the course that can display individuality of each person over the taboo of the part and the previous limitation of fashion.
The purpose of this study is to express the sexuality of feminism in the modern fashion. As for the methods of research, literary research was carried out using reference based on feminism history and sexuality concept and demonstrative analysis was undertaken using 2000's collections photographs. In the results of that, the sexuality of gender resistance feminism is featured by three key words: sado-masochism sexuality, bi sexuality and hetero sexuality. First, sado-masochism sexuality shows fetish look and dominatrix look shown in the strong attitudes. Sado-masochism sexuality is setting fetishes such as mask, whip, chain, metallic materials and tight leather boots. Second, bi sexuality presents mannish look of soft and feminie style's slim pants suit with ruffle, flounce and decorated detail blouse. and fetish look wearing of sexual symbol clothes such as corset and bustier. Third, hetero sexuality represent glamour look which exposure and emphasis of breasts, hips and other sexual symbols.
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