• 복식
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• 제61권6호
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• pp.113-130
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• 2011

Post-Modern Multiculturalism is spreading in many ways and other cultural interest has led to the Latin American culture, which has steadily appeared as the main fashion concept of the international collection. Frida Kahlo(1907-1954), a representative of Latin American culture and a Mexican female surrealistic painter, who gives us some inspiration for contemporary fashion design. The purpose of this study is to have a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture and to expand the expression of fashion design. In the process, this article examines the costume of Mexico belong to the Indio culture which had been regarded as the Other for a long time and understands Frida Kahlo's fashion style: Tehuanas costume and her masculine style. The Tehuanas costume is a traditional style of the city, Tehuantepec, located in the southeast of Mexico, which is characterized by colorful floral patterns and a long skirt. Three fashion concepts were derived from her fashion style: tradition & modern, love & farewell, and masculine & feminine. The scope of this study investigates the Haute Couture and the Pret-a-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2010 in Europe, USA and South America. From classifying the collected photos into each concept, three styles such as ethnic, romantic and androgynous style were derived. These fashion styles were analyzed through the formative elements of dress, color, silhouette, pattern, material and clothing construction in order to figure out how costumes of other cultures influenced on contemporary fashion. As a design inspiration, Frida Kahlo extends her influence into innerwear, accessories and hairstyles, as well as women's wear. These inspirations emerge steadily from the past and far into the future as an expression of a fashion design concept.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.153-167
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• 2015

This paper proposes knit slacks patterns by lower body shape of middle-aged women. In addition, this paper aims to propose a design method for a prototype of nice knit slacks using the properties of knitwear. To select basic woven slack patterns which would be used in designing prototype of knit slacks for middle-aged women, two industrial slack patterns and two educational slack patterns were collected, and lab coats were prefabricated using muslin. Then, a shape test was performed by an evaluation board which consisted of eight experts who majored in Clothing Construction. Using blended yarn (1/17's) with 64% wool, 23% rayon and 13% nylon, 12G knit slacks in plain stitch were made. In terms of waist circumference of knit slacks, the front and the back were set to W/4+1+2(D) and W/4-1+2(D), respectively, with 1cm of difference using waist circumference (Omphalion) to cover the abdominal circumference. To make the front-back width of the side line even, the front waist circumference was increased by 1cm. The ease of hip circumference was set to 4cm in total with H/4+1+0.8 in front and H/4+1-0.8 in the back (0.8cm in difference). Crotch length was set by adding 3cm (width of waist belt) after deducting crotch height from waist height (Omphalion). The center front angle was shifted by 1cm while the center back angle was shifted from the center front to the side line by 5cm.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.201-216
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• 1998

This study is aimed at exploring a reasonable and reliable method of measuring pre-school children's somatotypes and there by, data basing the information obtained and classifying their somatotypes, at providing useful data which can be utilized for the design of their dress forms and enhancing the fitness of their apparels. to this end, 330 pre-school children living in the capital area and aged fro m4 to 6 were sampled to be subject to the measurement of their somatotypes. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. As the pre-school children grow, the scales indicating their vertical growth including height could well be measured differently, but those scales indicating their lateral somatotypes which reflect their postural changes did not show among age groups. in other words, male kids were higher in the scales including height than female kids, while there were not differences between sexes in most scales indicating their lateral somatotypes. 2. The elements comprising the somatotypes were the size of body skeleton, the thickness of body mass, the posture and shape of body mass, the lateral under-neck shape, the extrusion of belly, the length between front and the back shoulder, the shape of lower belly, the shape of upper hip, the shape of lower hip and the slope of shoulders. Among them, the first two elements accounted for 64.8% of the total distribution, which means that these two elements explain the body-mass somatotypes of kid's most effectively. 3. The sample kids were divided into two types for classification of their somatotypes. As a result, it was found that the elements determining their somatotypes most influentially are, unlike adults' case the size of body skeleton rather than posture or lateral body shape. The type I showed less dimensions in most scales than type II, while their shoulder were les developed,. The type I was found distributed much in 4-year-old female kids. The type II showing more development in each element was found distributed much in 6-year-old male kids.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.667-673
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to obtain drape information and objective texture of fabrics easily and quickly by using a constructed fabric database. For the construction of the fabric database, 287 woven fabrics were examined by using the CLO fabric kit, KES-FB system, and drape test system. The k-means cluster analysis method was used to classify the fabrics into 7 grades. After correlation analysis of the fabric properties for each experiment, similar properties of the CLO fabric kit and KES-FB system were chosen, which were then designed to extract similar fabrics from the database. It was confirmed that inferring the drape information and objective hand feeling of fabrics was to some extent possible by extracting similar fabrics from the database. In this study, the primary hand and total hand value(THV) of KES-FB system, which was constructed by Kawabata and other experiments, were used to quantify the objective hand feeling, because they are the most widely used. However, these standards can be changed over time; in order to be applied within the clothing industry, these standards may have to be changed to some extent. Moreover, it is notable that although objective hand feeling cannot be expressed in the 3D virtual costume program, it can be easily derived from the constructed database. Additionally, it is expected that the existing 3D virtual costume program will express the costumes more realistically by improving these results.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2020

This study focused on front-blouse-type skirts from the 15th and 16th centuries and aimed to investigate their formative characteristics and wearing patterns. Previous studies, literature, records, paintings, and excavated clothing items were used as research materials. The researcher categorized front-blouse-type skirts into three types based on the construction method. The first has the front-center portion of the skirt folded up, the second has the center portion cut short, and the third has horizontal dart pleats on either side. An examination of 48 items from 18 excavation sites of front-blouse-type skirts showed that only the front-center portion folded up type appeared in the 15th century, and it was only in the 16th century that the other forms of skirts were worn. Finally, based on the analysis, the pattern of wearing front-blouse-type skirts and their changing factors was deduced. Front-blouse-type skirts were identified as ceremonial skirts that were popular in the 15th and 16th centuries among the types of long skirts available. The popularity and usage of this type of skirt began to spread gradually in the 15th century. In the 16th century, various types of front-blouse-type skirts were brought into vogue by the royal family and the external register. It can be inferred that the popularity of front-blouse-type skirts gradually declined in the 17th century as other types of long skirts, folding skirts, and Sran type skirts emerged.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.59-69
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• 2022

Vyshyvanka, the embroidered folk costume shirt of Ukraine, originated during the early reign of the Slavs, and currently, it is also called Ukrainian embroidery. In cases of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements, it is necessary to research formative characteristics for expanding the visual aspect through the diversification of techniques, but also the aspect of the psychological meaning to Ukrainians. This study aims to consider Vyshyvanka as a unique embroidery technique, and also analyze the formative characteristics expressed in apparel elements. The study of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements can present meaning to understanding the Ukrainian fashion. The image materials for the analysis of Vyshyvanka design, included work photos contained in literary materials and foreign online visual materials. The results of formatively analyzing the Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel are as follows. First, the Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements held an incantatory meaning, protecting wearers from getting easily invaded by evil spirits. Second, the Vyshyvanka patterns utilized symbolism that implied the incantatory meaning. Third, a single color was used for the embroidery. Lastly, materials like cotton, that are easy to embroider, were mostly used. The formative characteristics of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements implied the community spirit, nature worship, and folk beliefs. As an attempt to understand the Ukrainian fashion, this study is significant in the aspect of expanding, widely utilizing, and expanding the range of understanding of Ukrainian fashion. Therefore, there should be more active researches on Ukrainian fashion, so Vyshyvanka can be more widely used as a design element.

• 한국가정과교육학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.13-34
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• 2007

이 연구는 가정과교육에서 지향하는 실천 개념은 어때야 하는지를 아리스토텔레스의 덕론에서 덕의 분류에서 실천적 지혜(phronesis)의 위치를 파악하고 다른 덕과의 관계에 대한 논의를 중심으로 살펴보았다. 실천적 지혜는 praxis로 이끄는 덕이기 때문에 우리나라 교육과정에서 실천교과라고 명시되어 있는 가정과교육의 실천적 본질을 이해하는 데에 핵심적 개념이라고 볼 수 있다. 아리스토텔레스는 인간의 영혼을 이성적 부분과 비이성적 부분으로 나누고 이성적 부분을 다시 인식적 부분과 사량적 부분으로 나누었다. 영혼의 비이성적 부분을 식물적 부분과 욕구적 부분으로 나누었다. 인식적 부분에 해당하는 덕을 지적 덕, 욕구적 부분에 해당하는 덕을 도덕적 덕이라 하였다. 실천적 지혜는 인간 정신의 이성적 부분 중 사량적 부분에 해당하는 지적 덕 중에 하나이다. 이와 같은 분류에 기초할 때 실천적 지혜는 좁은 의미에서 praxis와 관계하는 덕으로 sophia와 구별되며, techne와도 구별된다. 넓은 의미에서 실천적 지혜는 techne를 포함하는 사량적 부분의 덕이다. 실천적 지혜는 도덕적 덕과 상호 밀접한 관계를 가지며 올바른 욕구와 logos를 따라 선택한 행동에 이르게 한다. 이 연구의 논의를 기초로 가정과교육은 실천 개념의 범위를 어떻게 설정하여야 하는가의 과제와 실과와 기술과의 관련성은 어떻게 해석하는 것이 옳은지의 과제를 해결할 수 있을 것으로 보았다. 이 연구에서는 가정과교육에서 지향하는 praxis의 의미를 잠정적으로 '도덕적으로 실천하는 행동, 선을 구체화 또는 실현하는 행동, 혹은 최선의 선을 추구하는 좋은 삶'으로 보았다. 실천교과로서의 가정과교육에서 실천적 지혜를 가진 사람의 의미는 '개인 및 가정생활에서 일어나는 실천적 문제의 구체적 상황에서 자신뿐만 아니라 모두를 위해 최고의 선을 구체화하는 행동(praxis)을 할 수 있는 사람'이다. 실천적 지혜와 다른 덕과의 관계를 살펴본 결과 실천적 지혜를 통해 이론과 실천을 통합할 수 있으며, 도덕적 덕과 불가분리의 관계를 맺고 있음을 알 수 있었다. 그러므로 아는 것이 행동하는 것으로, 행동하는 것이 잘 행동하는 것으로 가게 해주는 덕이 실천적 지혜이므로, 실천교과로서의 가정과교육을 통하여 실천적 지혜를 가진 사람으로 교육할 사명을 다해야 할 것이다.

• 한국방사선학회논문지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.441-447
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• 2023

현재 의료방사선 분야에서 차폐를 목적으로 주로 사용되고 있는 납(Pb)소재는 방사선 차폐 기능은 뛰어 나지만 납 자체가 가지고 있는 인체 유해성과 무거운 무게에 의한 불편함 때문에 지속적으로 직, 간접적으로 방사선 피폭 위험을 차단함과 동시에 납 소재를 대체할 수 있는 인체 친화적인이며 가벼우면서 사용편의성을 가진 차폐소재의 연구는 지속적으로 진행되어지고 있다. 본 연구에서는 일반적으로 사용되는 PET(polyethylene terephthalate) 필름과 실제 방사선 방호복 사용되는 원단소재를 기재로 하여 방사선을 차폐할 수 있는 금속물질인 비스무트, 텅스텐, 주석을 스퍼터링 진공증착 방식을 통한 다층박막을 구현하여 차페필름을 제작하여 방사선 차폐소재로의 적용가능성을 평가하였다. 차폐필름을 제작하기 위한 인가전압, 롤 구동속력, 가스공급량을 제어하면서 차폐물질별 최적화된 조건을 확립하여 방사선 차폐필름 제작하였다. 모재와 차폐금속박막간 밀착력 확인은 Cross-cut 100/100으로 확인하였고 시간에 따른 박막의 변화를 측정하기 위해 내열탕 테스트 1시간을 통하여 박막의 안정성을 확인하였다. 최종적으로 구현된 차폐필름의 차폐성능은 한국방사선진흥협회를 통한 실제 방사선 차폐성능을 측정한 결과 시험조건(역넓은 빔, 관전압 50 kV, 반가층 1.828 mmAl)을 설정하여 감쇠비 16.4 (초기값 0.300 mGy/s, 측정값 0.018 mGy/s)와 감쇠비 4.31(초기값 0.300 mGy/s, 측정값 0.069 mGy/s)의 결과를 얻었다. 추후 제품화를 위한 공정효율성을 확보하여 가벼우면서 차폐성능을 보유한 필름 및 원단을 활용하여 방사선 방호복이나 차폐기능을 가진 건축자재로의 필름적용을 위한 초석을 마련하였다.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.612-622
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• 2017

본 논문은 다양한 소수민족으로 구성된 중국의 가장 대표적 소수민족인 내몽고자치구의 몽고족을 중심으로 그들의 문화상징에 대한 인식과 민족 정체성 확립을 위한 문화상징요소를 설문조사를 통해 체계적으로 정립하여 향후 몽고족의 대외 홍보 및 디자인에 응용 가능한 학제적 기초를 마련하고자한다. 본 논문은 객관적 자료를 위해 몽고족 및 타민족 300명을 대상으로 설문조사 하였으며 그 결과 대부분 몽고족은 소수민족임에 자부심을 느끼고 있으며 소수민족을 대표하는 민족이라 인식하고 있다. 몽고족의 민족성은 사회성이 높고 장식하기 좋아하는 심미성이 있으며, 창의성, 신뢰성, 진취성이 높은 것으로 나타났다. 또한 문화상징의 디자인요소 선호도에서는 색상은 청색, 문양은 성길사한의 인물 문양, 재질은 마노를 선호하였으며 상징의미는 평화가 가장 높았다. 문화상징 활용은 축제 때 가장 많이 사용하는 것으로 나타났으며 의류에 가장 많이 적용되는 것으로 파악 되었다. 이런 문화상징을 내몽고의 정체성 확립 및 홍보를 위해 적극 사용해야 한다는 의견이 높았다. 몽고족 문화상징의 체계적 정립은 몽고족의 민족 정체성을 확립하는 중요한 일로, 민족적 의미와 문화적 사명 아래 민족문화자원과 잘 결합되어 소수민족문화의 발전에 도움이 될 뿐만 아니라 소수민족으로서 자부심을 고취시킬 것이다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.415-428
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• 2004

The purpose of this thesis was to develop torso patterns according to the physical types of men in 20s. The procedure and results are as follows; 1. Of the men in 20s meeting the national average of physique, 4 men were selected and classified into 2 physical types according to their chest and waist circumference drops. One group had 20㎝ drop (Y type) while the other had 16㎝ drop (N type). Through evaluation performed by clothing construction professionals on the 4 upper bodice blocks drafted according to the existent drafting method and dressed on the 4 men, several problems have been found. These problems were adjusted and supplemented to make two new blocks. The fit of the new blocks were evaluated and proved to be satisfactory. 2. The following is the adjustments made to the existent men's torso patterns which had been utilized as the objects the first evaluation experiment. ① Though the back waist length of the pattern from the existent drafting method covered the center back length of the body in both Y type and N type, the front length did not causing it to stand away from the body. To adjust this, 2.0㎝ has been added to the center front length of each pattern so that the waist line could make a bar level to the ground. ② The shoulder line of the pattern from the existent drafting method had the tendency to fall backward. To make the shoulder line to fall in place, it has been moved 1.0㎝ to the front. 0.5㎝ has been added to the should length. ③ The neckline had a tendency to climb up. It has been lowered by 0.5㎝ until the line touched the center front neck point. ④ Though different in degree, the neck circumference did not allow enough width for both physique type causing the neckline to pull at side neck point with diagonal crease. To adjust this, 0.3㎝ and 0.6㎝ has been added to the Y type and N type respectively so that the neckline would touch the side neck point and the neckline could naturally fall into its original position. ⑤ Though different in degree, there was not enough space at the armhole causing wrinkles around this area. Therefore, 0.25㎝ and 0.5㎝ has been added to the front and back of the armholes of the Y and N types respectively. The armhole was made 1.0㎝ deeper only for the N type. ⑥ 1.0㎝ in the front and 0.5㎝ in the back were added to the side scam for the Y type while 0.5㎝ in the front and 0.25㎝ in the back were added for N type. This eliminated the unwanted wrinkles to give the silhouette a smooth look.