• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권6호
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• pp.919-932
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• 2022

This study analyzed the trends of applications for patents, utility models, and designs related to leggings in order to understand the trend of development of technologies for leggings products that are continuously growing in the fashion market. In this study, trends in patent, utility model, and design applications related to leggings products filed from 2001 to 2020 with the Korean Intellectual Property Office were analyzed. As a result, first, the trends of applications for patents, utility models, and designs by year showed that the applications began to rise from 2006 and increased sharply in the 2010s. Second, applications for patents and utility models were analyzed by subject and, according to the results, the applications for compression shaping functionality were the most frequent, followed by those for construction/sewing, those for accessories and others, those for system/device, and those for multi-functionality. Third, when applications for designs were classified by target for wearing and by type of leggings, applications for general leggings designs were the most frequently filed, followed by applications for: item attachment type leggings, shapewear leggings, leggings for men, leggings for pregnant women, leggings for children, and leggings for the disabled. Although this study is limited to domestic patents, utility models, and design applications, it collected useful information related to leggings products and presented directions for future development.

• 한국정보과학회 언어공학연구회:학술대회논문집(한글 및 한국어 정보처리)
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• 한국정보과학회언어공학연구회 2021년도 제33회 한글 및 한국어 정보처리 학술대회
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• pp.467-472
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• 2021

본 연구는 패션앱 후기글에 나타나는 구매자의 의견에 대한 '평가분석(Evaluation Analysis: EA)'을 수행하여, 이를 기반으로 상품의 검색 및 추천을 수행하는 의류 검색추천 챗봇을 개발하는 LICO 프로젝트의 언어데이터 구축의 일환으로 수행되었다. '평가분석 트리플(EAT)'과 '평가기반요청 쿼드러플(EARQ)'의 구성요소들에 대한 주석작업은, 도메인 특화된 단일형 핵심어휘와 다단어(MWE) 핵심패턴들을 FST 방식으로 구조화하는 DECO-LGG 언어자원에 기반하여 반자동 언어데이터 증강(SSP) 방식을 통해 진행되었다. 이 과정을 통해 20여만 건의 후기글 문서(230만 어절)로 구성된 EVAD 평가주석데이터셋이 생성되었다. 여성의류 도메인의 평가분석을 위한 '평가속성(ASPECT)' 성분으로 14가지 유형이 분류되었고, 각 '평가속성'에 연동된 '평가내용(VALUE)' 쌍으로 전체 35가지의 {ASPECT-VALUE} 카테고리가 분류되었다. 본 연구에서 구축된 EVAD 평가주석 데이터의 성능을 평가한 결과, F1-Score 0.91의 성능 평가를 획득하였으며, 이를 통해 향후 다른 도메인으로의 확장된 적용 가능성이 유효함을 확인하였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권12호
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• pp.1535-1545
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• 2005

신축성 소재 여성용 바디수트 원형 설계에 관한 선행연구에서 개발된 바디수트의 진동둘레길이 항목을 적용한 소매원형 제도방법이 제안되었다 본 연구는 선행연구와 연속적 맥락에서, 첫째, 신축성 소재의 물성을 고려한 패턴축소율의 적용을 제시하고 둘째, 그에 따라 개발된 여성용 바디수트 소매원형의 제도방법의 단계별 서술을 통해 교육 및 산업분야에서의 사용을 목적으로 하였다. 본 연구를 위하여 광범위하게 사용되고 있는 기존의 소매원형 제도방법을 우선, 선정하여(i.e. Joseph-Armstrong: T1, Shoben & Ward: T2, Esmod: T3 그리고 Joseph-Armstrong 절충식 : T4) 분석하였다. 그 가운데 소매의 앞 뒤차가 반영되지 않는(i.e. T1) 것과 반영되는(i.e. T2, T3 그리고 T4) 방법으로 나누어 구분하고 그에 따른 바디수트 소매샘플을 선행연구와 동일한 신축성 소재$(wale: 50\%/course: 70\%)$를 사용하여 제작한 후, 5인의 전문평가단을 구성하여 그 외관과 동작적합성을 평가하였다. 외관평가에서 관찰된 항목은 앞, 옆, 뒤 바디수트 소매의 여유분, 중심선의 위치와 소매길이, 그리고 바디수트 몸판과의 조화정도의 총 13항목이었고, 쾌적성 평가에서는 전방수직, 측방수직, 측방수평 3동작을 통해 실험의의 동작적합성을 평가하였으며 최종적으로 외관과 동작성이 적절히 조화된 바디수트 소매원형을 제안하는 과정을 거쳤다. 외관평가에서 T3>T4>T2>T1 순서로 우수하게 평가되었으며, 동작적합성 평가에서는 T1>T4>T2>T3의 순으로 평가되어, 외관적으로는 여유분이 적어 당겨 보이는 이유로 점수가 낮아도 쾌적성에서는 오히려 죄어주는 것이 안정감이 있다고 분석되었다. 따라서 외관과 쾌적감의 균형을 고려하였을 때 최종적으로 T4,즉, 소재의 신축성에 따른 패턴축소율(전체소매길이 : 1.0RR, 소매산높이 : 0.7RR, 팔꿈치둘레: 0.9RR)이 반영되고, 진동둘레에 제로 이즈량을 부가하였으며, 앞뒤차가 반영된 바디수트 소매 원형 제도방법 이 제안되었다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The shroud of the Chosun dynasty period originally meant the new start in the next world. Its basic principle was to wear the best clothes or wedding garments during one's life. The white hemp cloth-shroud worn during this time was formed after the 20th century. In the beginning it started simply by imitating the shroud of the common people. However recently many aspects of the trade have deteriorated by the commercialism of the shroud traders. So this study focuses on the way of keeping traditions and making the shroud desirable. First, the shroud was made of the best materials such as silk, hemp cloth, ramie cloth and cotton cloth in the past. A thought that the shroud material must be white hemp cloth is the result from misunderstanding of the traditional shroud of the Chosun dynasty period. We can produce beautiful shrouds using natural materials without losing dignity and at diverse prices. Second, the shroud was produced not only to keep the dignity of a dead person but also to avoid wasting the original cloth. Third, The shroud has pursued diversity in classifying the traditional style or the basic style. It is possible to select the shroud flexibly according to one's sense of values or the way the tomb was made. These days, the Korean full-dress attire and Wonsam (Korean woman's ceremonial clothes) are the standardized form of the ready-made shroud. The man's Korean full-dress attire on sale is sewn in the wrong way and its shape looks more like the Wonsam. I offer diverse shrouds of the Chosun dynasty period, for example, the official uniform, hemp cloth upper garment, men's black upper garment, Korean full-dress attire, Korean overcoat, Wonsam, the long hood worn by a Korean woman and a woman's long upper garment, so that we can see the Korean originality and beauty through the different types of shrouds. Also, I adjusted a number of items, undergarments and other articles according to the price. As mentioned before this study helps to portray a desirable understanding of the culture of the shroud. So I corrected many problems of the present shroud and propose a new type of shroud based on tradition. Furthermore, I recommend a way of making use of the Hanbok which the man wears during his life, at the wedding ceremony or a his 60th birthday without buying a new shroud.

• 한국가정과교육학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.1-17
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• 1997

This study was conducted to obtain basic materials to improve the teaching method of Home Economics by theoretically looking into the supplementary teaching materials or implements usable in teaching Costume History area. And based on these data, the types and the applications of the supplementary teaching materials or implements highschool owned were examined. The subjects of this study were 111 Home Economics and Housework curriculum highschool teachers who give a lecture in the country by using self-administered questionnaires. SAS program was used to calculate frequency, percentage, average, standard deviation, and $\chi$(sup)2-test analysis. The results of the study were as follows； 1. Most of the highschool teachers used the school expenses for experiments in preparing the supplementary teaching materials or implements. 2. Of the supplementary teaching materials and implements concerning Costume History, visual implements such as slides and pictures were the mostly owned. CD and audio implements as cassette-tapes were not used. 3. Most of the teachers recognized the importance of the audio-visual teaching materials and implements concerning Costume History. 4. Among the audio-visual materials and implements concerning Costume History by which can be made by school teachers of Home Economics and Housework curriculum, the mostly used one was ‘cutting pictorials from magazines and newspapers’, and the next were ‘orbital materials’, and ‘copy the pictorials’, and the least was ‘recording from the radio’. 5. Most of the annual expenses assigned to the department of Home Economics was used in cooking practice, and the least of the expenses was assigned in buying audio-visual teaching materials and implements. 6. Time assigned to the area of Home Economics was for the most part one or two hours per week, and among this, time assigned to the history of western costume and the history ok korean costume was for the most part five to eight hours. 7. The areas that the highschool teachers felt difficulties mostly during clothing and textiles curriculum were ‘textiles’and the next were ‘knitting’, ‘western costume history’, and ‘korean clothing construction’. 8. The difficulties the highschool teachers faced while teaching Costume History were mostly that ‘the pictorials in the text is not fully explainable’, the next were ‘most of the supplementary teaching materials or implements are not owned’, ‘have to explain very much in a short time’, and ‘the lectural explanation is insufficient’. 9. The solution for the difficulties that the highschool teachers faced while teaching Costume History was mostly ‘the information, on which audio-visual materials and implements are distributed in the market, should be easy to obtain’, the next opinions were ‘the school should provide enough experiment and practice expenses to buy audio-visual materials and implements’, and ‘education facilities of the Home Economics Department should be the main aspects in improving the teaching methods and should give special lectures about it’.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.41-52
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• 2002

At the beginning of the modern times, orientalism and ethnic character was the main stream of current fashion. Early in the twentieth century, orientalism had a tremendous affect on various areas of society, culture, and art. Particularly, it inspired and activated the design of costume. A great variety of colors and construction of the Orient and geometrical simplicity were based on the creation of modern costume. Ethnic placed weight on the Orient because Japan strengthened competitiveness and China opened the door to foreign countries. Therefore, a large number of the oriental costume produced by a variety of fashion designers. The oriental handicraft, motif and colors of the traditional costume have been used in modern costume. In addition, they are precious ideas for designers. This thesis is about a Study on costume embroidery close to fashion through the oriental embroidery and the concept of oriental embroidery. It is also a study on patterns, skills and colors of the oriental embroidery shown in modern fashion and practical use through the designers works. First, concept, process of change, patterns, skills and colors of the oriental embroidery are mainly discussed. 1.The oriental embroidery consists of life, Buddhism, appreciation and costume embroidery. Embroidery was widely used for a variety of purposes. First, it is to make a good impression and beauty. Second, to decorate many kinds of patterns and shapes. Last, to indicate social status and stages. 2.The origin of the oriental embroidery started in Persia. was It greatly developed in Iran and was introduced in Korea via China. We are reminded of the oriental embroidery of China. China is the original place of oriental embroidery. Oriental embroidery has developed the peculiar embroidery according to each climate, custom and nationality. On the basis of these, the practical use of the oriental embroidery on modern fashion is presented through patterns, skills and colors which leads Korean designers use. Even though the oriental embroidery is not very popular among people owing to a great deal of cost and a demand for labor, the patterns and colors of the embroidery has been already familiar with the contemporaries A more profound study on the oriental embroidery will supply a great deal of material and ideas to the fashion industry. Moreover, an effort to raise self-pride in traditional culture will be also in need.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.87-100
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• 2007

This study aims at analyzing the characteristics of deconestructionism expressed in Issey Myake's fashion who is one of the most creative designers in the world. Method and contents of this study are as follows. Through the review of literatures, three major categories such as interminacy of meaning, decentring, and intertextuality and eight subcategories have been identified as major features of deconestructionism. These subcategories for content analysis were selected to examine the characteristics of deconstructionism expressed in Issey Myake's design in depth. Interminacy of meaning was divided into unstructured and unconstructed factors while decentring into qualities of cross-gender, subculture, anti-fashion, and post-humanism. Lastly, intertextuality was classified into factors of disordered mixing mode and mixed styles. Materials for analysis were chosen from total 349 designs on the website,www.firstview.com, which carries Issey Miyake's collection from 2002 S/S through 2006 F/W. 2 fashion major analysts including the researcher participated in 1st analysis and two another fashion major analysts participated in 2nd analysis. The final level of consistency between analysts was over 97% for all categories. The data analysis quantitatively evaluates the frequency of each category and qualitatively evaluates the characteristics of design. The result is as follows. First, the avant-garde facets of inter-textuality are most prominent. In particular, Miyake has introduced the various novelly textiles to fashion and employed the mixtured styles, not to copy them but to create hybrid designs by using pastiches and mixing fashion styles. Moreover, he has used various fabrics in order to inflict shock and contrast but still create subtle harmony, thus enriching his fashion. Second, the indeterminacy of meaning is the second most frequently shown facet of Miyake's fashion design. Miyake has employed unconstructed expression techniques, which has projected unusual images free from basic forms of designs and also has used the unstructured styles which dismantle harmony and balance-the common rule of design. He has made a new attempt to acknowledge clothing as an expressive artwork by allowing clothes to take a complete form when a person actually wears them. He has demonstrated a unique perspective on cloth construction and presented a love for artistic collaboration in the development of his collections A distinct manufactured aesthetic is exaggerated, even hyperbolic. Thirdly, the aspects of decentralization were also shown in Miyake's design, however, it has been visibly decreased after 2002 S/S.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제25권10호
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• pp.103-113
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• 2020

본 연구는 사이즈코리아의 제7차 인체치수조사 자료 중 16-18세 고등학교 남학생 데이터를 사용하여 맞음새가 우수한 교복 셔츠를 개발하기 위하여 상반신 관련 치수를 분석하여 상반신 체형을 분류하고 체형유형별 특성을 파악하고자 하였다. 이를 통해 교복셔츠 개발에 필요한 기초자료를 얻고자 하였다. 자료분석에는 SPSS Ver. 26.0 프로그램을 사용하였다. 고등학교 남학생은 높이항목은 연령별로 유의미한 차이가 없었으나 너비, 두께, 길이, 둘레, 어깨경사각, 몸무게 항목에서는 연령별로 유의미한 차이가 나타났다. 상반신 체형은 어깨길이가 길고 상반신 둘레와 너비가 작은 '긴 어깨 마른 체형', 상반신길이가 길고 상반신 둘레와 너비가 큰 '긴 상체 비만 체형', 어깨길이가 짧고 상반신 두께와 너비가 중간인 짧은 어깨 보통 체형, 어깨길이가 길고 둘레와 너비는 중간 정도인 '긴 어깨 보통 체형' 등 4개로 유형화되었다. 본 연구를 통해 추출된 사이즈 자료를 바탕으로 패턴 개발 및 사이즈 체계 구축을 통해 실질적인 맞음새가 우수한 교복 셔츠 개발이 필요할 것으로 생각된다.

• 복식
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• 제66권6호
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• pp.17-31
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to perform historical reconstruction of the court dress coat in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the artifacts. Following steps were undertaken in the study : literature research of the laws of the era, drawing of the design, embroidering gold work, and tailoring of the coat. Embroidering and tailoring experts were consulted to complete an accurate reconstruction of the dress court. The results of this study are as follows. First, Juimgwan's coat, which was the Court Costume Rule in 1905 was selected as an experimental coat. It was revision of the Court Costume Rule in 1900. The process of selection was based on the amount and easiness of embroidery. Second, the design of the back bodice, chevron, pockets and collar is reflected the pattern of the preceding research, which was analyzed from the laws, the drawing document[Gwanbokjandoan], and artifacts. Third, the gold work embroidery in the back bodice, chevron, pockets and collar was done. The embroidery material were composed of gold threads, such as rough purl, smooth purl, check purl, pearl purl, rococo, and spangle. Couching was used as an embroidery method. The coat was tailored after embroidering. The coat and the buttons were made after analyzing the artifacts. The result of this study can be utilized in the field of historical reconstruction of artifacts in the museum, the designing of stage costume in the performances of reenactment events, drama, and movie of Daehan Empire. Furthermore, this study is anticipated to contribute to the fundamental research of culture contents.

• 복식
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• 제65권6호
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• pp.99-111
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to identify the expression methods of uncanny images shown in contemporary fashion through the visual expression methods of plastic arts. The study results are as following. First, there is a concept-forming element of 'The return of Repressed', which is a psychological mechanism for generating uncanny sets to the component of 'repression' and 'return'. 'Repression' herein consisted of 'unconsciousness', 'the other', and 'anxiety', while the return was composed of 'trauma' and 'repetition compulsion'. Second, there are visual expression methods of the uncanny in contemporary art. The subject of 'repressed things' was expressed as grotesque and having a terrible look. 'Fragmented body' was analyzed as 'dismantling' by mutilation, 'combination' placing cut body parts in other places, and 'damage' suffering from an illness or accident. 'Fear of death' was shown as 'anatomy' reminiscent of death and 'iconography of death' meaning return of the dead. 'Post-human' was a surrealistic being such as a monster and mechanized human, and was analyzed as 'gene variation' and 'cyborg'. Third, the methods of visual expression of the uncanny reflected on contemporary fashion was analyzed as 'fragmented body', 'fear of death', and 'post-human'. 'Fragmented body' appeared as the object reminiscent of the fragmented body, 'dismantling and combination of the body', and 'damage of the body' through the distortion of the clothing construction principle. 'Fear of death' visualized the characteristic elements of the subject reminiscent of death as 'iconography of death' and 'symbolic object of death' through the motif. 'Post-human' was the description of the subject beyond the body's function and form, and was shown as 'gene variation' and 'cyborg'.