• Title/Summary/Keyword: Clothing construction

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Making Method and Use of the $18^{th}$ Century Jokduri in Ijae-nan-go ("이재난고(頤齋亂藁)"에 나타난 18세기(世紀) 족두리(簇頭里)의 제법(製法) 및 사용(使用))

  • Kim, Ji-Yeon;Hong, Na-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.8
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    • pp.86-99
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    • 2010
  • This study considered the characteristics and use of the jokduri during the 18th century, which was shown in Ijae-nan-go written by Yoon-Seok Hwang. In Ijae-nan-go, not only the origin of the jokduri, but also its colors, materials, sizes, and construction methods are recorded, in detail. The Jokdori is assumed to have been influenced by costumes of China. The 18th century jokduri is mainly made up of black satin, and is composed of eight pieces of cloth. This looks similar to a contemporary jokduri, but the 18th century jokduri is bigger. At court during the 18th century, women decorated their hair styles higher by using the jokduri. Not only did the jokduri fix the topknot at the top of a woman's hair by wrapping the topknot, but also it raised the height of the topknot. This is different from the generally known method of wearing jokduri. Therefore, this demonstrates that there have been changes in the role and use of the jokduri over time.

A Study on Elementary School Girls' Lower Body Type Analysis (학령후기 여아의 하반신 체형분석에 관한 연구)

  • 석은영;김혜경
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.24 no.3
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    • pp.345-352
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study was to classify lower body types of elementary school girls. The subjects for anthropometric study were 368 girls aged from 10 to 11. Factor analysis, cluster analysis, discriminant analysis, and analysis of variance were performed for statistical analysis of the data. Four lower body construction factors were extracted by the factor analysis of antropometric measurements. The factors extracted were lower body fatness factor, lower body height factor, lower body length from the waist to the crotch factor, and lower body configuration factor. On the basis of the cluster analysis, three different lower body types were categorized. Type 1 was short and small sized type and 42.4% of subjects belonged under this type. Type 2 was tall and fat type and 22.3% of subjects belonged under this type. Type 3 was the most similar to the average type having the largest waist-hip drop value and 35.3% of subjects belonged under this type. Discriminant analysis showed 7 discriminant factors that can classify the children's lower body type were Rohrer's index, height, fibulae length, waist girth, ilio cristale girth, trochanter girth, and weight.

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Typology of Dress in Contemporary Fashion

  • Yim, Eunhyuk;Istook, Cynthia
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.41 no.1
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    • pp.98-115
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    • 2017
  • This study categorizes the formative aspects of dress and their implications according to the extent of revealing or concealing corporeality based on body perceptions. By considering the notion of dress as bodily practice to be a theoretical and methodological framework, this study combines a literature survey and case analysis to analyze and classify the forms of women's dress since the 1920s when contemporary fashion took hold. As examined in this study, the typology of dress was categorized as body-consciousness, deformation, transformation, and formlessness. Body-consciousness that is achieved through tailoring, bias cutting, and stretchy fabric displays corporeality focusing on the structure and function of the body as an internalized corset. Deformations in dress are categorized into two different subcategories. One is the expansion or reduction of bodily features based on the vertical or horizontal grids of the body, which visualizes the anachronistic restraint of the body through an innerwear as outerwear strategy. The other is exaggerations of the bodily features irrelevant to the grid, which break from the limitations and constraints of the body as well as traditional notions of the body. Transformations of the body refer to as follows. First, the deconstruction and restructuring of the body that deconstruct the stereotypes in garment construction. Second, the abstraction of the body that emphasizes the geometrical and architectural shapes. Third, transformable designs which pursue the expansion and multiplicity of function. Formlessness in dress denies the perception of three-dimensionality of the body through the planarization of the body.

A Study on CRM in Discount Store of Fashion Product (1) - Focus on Process of Relationship Construction - (대형할인점에(大形割引店)서의 패션 제품(製品) CRM에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) (제1보)(第1報) - 관계형성(關係形成) 과정(科程)을 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Lee, Seung-Hee;Park, Soo-Kyeong
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.11 no.1
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    • pp.86-96
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study was to examine which variables affect customer relationship management in discount store focusing on satisfaction, trust and commitment. A total of 360 participants who had purchased fashion products in discount store were used in this study. The data was analyzed by factor analysis, correlation analysis and regression analysis using SPSS program. As the result, benefits, information, reputation, product, location, salesperson and price factor were extracted. The price, information, reputation, product and location variables had the effects on satisfaction, especially, price had the major effects on satisfaction. The satisfaction, information, salesperson, price and location had the effects on trust. The satisfaction, trust, information, benefits and product had the effects on commitment. The reputation variable had direct effect on relationship maintenance. Also, satisfaction, trust and commitment had the effects on relationship maintenance. Specifically commitment had higher effect on relationship maintenance than satisfaction and trust did. The results of this study would provide CRM marketing strategy for fashion marketers of discount store.

An Analysis of Children's Torso Using Photographic Anthropometry (사진 계측에 의한 아동의 동체 형상 분석(I))

  • Jeon, Eun-Kyung
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.6 no.2
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    • pp.145-155
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    • 1997
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the body type of children's, especially torso, and to provide the fundamental data for children's clothing construction which can reflect the characteristics of their bodies. The subjects for photographic measurements are 308 elementary school children aged from 6 to 8 living in Seoul and urban area. Anthropometric measurements were performed indirectly from the pictures of subjects. The data were analyzed statistically using SPSSWIN. The results obtained from this study are as follows: 1. Through one-way ANOVA, items for heights, breaths, weight reveals the significant differences according to ages and genders. 2. Through Pearson correlation, it turns out that there are high correlation between any items of heights, but there is no correlation for item of shoulder inclination with any other items. 3. Through factor analysis of principal component model, six factors were extracted which covers 83.6% of the whole information. The first factor represents the items of heights which relates with linearity. The second factor describes the items of breaths, depths, and weight in relation with laterality. The third factor were gathered with depths of front and back in relation with posture of side, which proves as important one to characterize the children's torso. The other factors represents the items of posture of neck, depths in neck, shoulder inclination, respectively. 4. Through one-way ANOVA in factor by group, and Scheffe multi comparison test for each group, the factor 1 that is related with linearity reveals the significant differences according to ages and genders.

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A Study on the Development of Avatar Fashion Item as Cultural Industries Using Digital Contents - Focused on the Off-Line Fashion Brand - (디지털 콘텐츠 문화산업으로서 아바타 패션 아이템 개발 연구 - 오프라인 패션 브랜드의 홈페이지 콘텐츠를 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Keum-Hee;Ryu, Jin-Kyoung
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.15 no.2 s.67
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    • pp.339-351
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    • 2007
  • Many off-line fashion brands currently has construct hompage in the form of digital contents at the website. The purpose of this study is to confirm that fashion item of avartar can be applicate to react for consumer desires by a process of construction for hompage digital contents of fashion brand, and develop various avartar fashion item to satisfy consumer's wants using the computer graphics. The results of this study are as followings. First, it should be the first to decide whether hompage contents can be used for any purposes. And it will offer initial brand concept, followed by the contents of event, blog, avatar, fashion information. Second, portal sites currently service avatar fashion item, but it just bounds the limit of indirect effect. Many fashion brands face a challenge to differenciate themselves, so avatar fashion item should be planned to coordinate the contents and brand concept. Also it is certainly possible that fashion brand communicates larger consumers with a avartar fashion item that appeal to a consumer's sensibility. Third, this study propose design development and application as 3 of the avartar fashion item using the computer graphics. Avatar Fashion item using the computer graphics was presented by application as promotion through event garment, item coordinate, cellular phone service.

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Analysis of the Waistline and the Back Waist Point of Slacks Pattern for Optimizing the Range of Motion (동작적합성을 위한 슬랙스 패턴의 허리선 및 허리뒤점 설계에 관한 연구)

  • Kwon, Sook-Hee;Hong, Ji-Un
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.47 no.4
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    • pp.61-72
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this research is to suggest a new way to approach measuring the waist line of slacks. The pattern formulated enables a construction method that optimizes motion. The method is based on the measurement on the length change of the body surface line. The research reveals: 1. The analysis of expansion and contraction by area showed that G8 markedly shrunk, whilst G15 maximally stretched during M4 motion. 2. The areas that stretched during M2 motion were, in order of size: G10, G17, G16, and G8. Conversely, the areas that shrunk are, in order, G9, G11, and G18. The areas that stretched during M3 motion were G10, G17, G16, G12, and G15; the areas that shrunk were G9, G11, G18, and G8. 3. In constructing the slacks pattern to allow for appropriate movement, we calculated the length between the knee and back of the waist, point (y), using Pythagoras’theorem and trigonometry. The equation was y = 1.005x. 4. In the two pattern N method and L method, y is equal or less than x, but for our research pattern, y was larger than x

A Study on the Length Variation of the Upper Body Surface according to Arm-movements for Early Elementary Schoolgirls (학령전기 여아의 상지동작에 따른 상반신 체표길이 변화 연구)

  • Pae Eun-Ah;Jang Jeong-Ah;Kwon Young-Suk
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.55 no.5 s.95
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    • pp.87-100
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    • 2005
  • This study was to provide the fundamental data for a scientific and rational clothing construction by investigating the length variation of the upper body surface, using the method of surgical tape. The subjects were 15 early elementary schoolgirls in Busan area classified by three somatotypes, Arm-movements were consisted of 6 types. The statistical analyses used in this study were mean, standard deviation and the ANOVA and LSD procedure. The results of the analysis of the length of the upper body surface are as follows: By arm-movements, in the items of horizontal, front neck base girth, back upper bust girth, back bust girth and back under bust girth were increased and the other standard lines were apt to be decreased. In the items of vertical, all standard lines of front side and side seam length showed increased, the lines of bark side were apt to be decreased. The shoulder length represented the maximum rate of decrease($-36.59\%{\~}-48.98\%$) in M6($180^{\circ}$) and the side seam showed the maximum rate of increase($49.74\%{\~}59.22\%$) in the same movement.

A Study on the Textile Design in Contem- porary Fashion -through the printing of the 1920s paintings- (현대 패션에 나타난 TEXTILE DESIGN 연구 -회화를 활용한 PRINTING을 중심으로-)

  • 금기숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.21
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    • pp.113-128
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    • 1993
  • The textile designs expressed in contempor-ary fashion are studied in this paper. The dec-orative paintings have been encouraged to be-ing adapted in textile designs for apparel as a motif of the surface design to promote the ar-tistic atmosphere in it. Adopting paintings in textile design through the method of printing is valid to improve the fashion in several reasons as follow : First the printed paintings on the fabrics could be possible to contribute individuality and creativity to the fashion im-proving the quality of textile design and the taste of the consumer as well, Second the limitted types of the clothing construction for preparing the proper space to reveal a paintings is needed on the costume The simple clothing types of loose from the body or fitted to the body are easy to adopt and to recreat the paintings on the apparel. Third the paintings which have been favored in use for the textile design are mostly derived from the abstract arts rather than re-alistic paintings for its decorative traits. Fourth a proposal to adapt the other genre of the art could be encouraged to enrich the field of textile and fashion design. Fifth aquisition of the individuality and the creativity in fashion design to differenciate in international market could be obtained through the adaption of Korean paintings which is ap-preciated with Korean sentiment and mind. This would be one of the essential and advis-able ways for designers to solve the problems which have been consistently pusuing in the area of Korean industrial design to find the Korean design model.

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A Case Study on the Uniform Design of Fashion Designer for Domestic Corporations in Korea (패션 디자이너의 국내 기업 유니폼 디자인 사례 연구)

  • Na, Hyun-Suk;Bae, Soo-Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.1
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    • pp.64-80
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    • 2013
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the cases of Korean requesting fashion designers for uniform design, that were created from the combination of designer's ideas with company identity, and analyze its design characteristics. For research methods, the uniform design cases were investigated and analyzed from 2000 to 2012. Uniform design cases were classified by job categories( airlines, banks, distributions, constructions, communications and restaurants). The most frequently applied trait on the part of uniform design proved to be for the fashion trend, followed by emblematic and functional factor and lastly, by korean tradition. This might be ascribed to the occupational characteristics of the fashion designers, which is the most emphasis on the fashion trend. The uniform of the construction and the distribution companies showed very fashionable designs that would be regarded to be associated with the trendy life styles in these companies' consumers. To the contrary, the uniform of the financial and communication companies showed the functional and emblematic trend that might be due to work conditions with long hours of sitting, coming from the occupational characteristics of these companies.