• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.21-39
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• 1995

By 1980, there are two main flows in the world fashion. One is the traditional Paris fashion by Houte Couture, and the other is the American casual fashion by mass production. However, the appearance of Japanese designers and their new styles on the stage of Paris fashion have had a strong influence on the change of the world fashion since 1980s. So, the purposes of this study were first to research the process, the background and the power which let the Japanese stand and suc-ceed in the stage of Paris fashion, second to research on the Fashion World and Fashion Trend from the beginning of 1980s to present (1994). The results were as follow ; Hanae Mori and Kenzo were the pioneers who let the West know the existence and the level of Japanese fashion. Issey Miyake was the new innovator in the 20th century Fashion. and became the foundation of the New Wave Fashion in 1980s. Rei kawakubo completed the philosophy of beauty by the imperfection and has led the Postmodernism in the Fashion. The constant efforts of the these Japanese designers have inspired the orientalism and Art-to Wear, showed up the new construction and material in clothing by layering and drap-ing and stimulated the traditional Paris fashion to become popular, casual and diverse. The success of Japanese designers and the boom of Japanese fashion were not only the effort of individuality but also the power of economics, the spirit of cooperation and the affection to the culture and tradition on the background. The New Wave fashion by Japanese designers in the beginning of 1980s have promoted the appearance of Avant-garde fashion in London, the new fashion spirit in Milano, and the various fashion styles of different sections in the West and East. Finally, it becomes popular in 1990s and leads the fashion spirit in the end of 20th century.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.364-371
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• 2015

This study investigated and analyzed Sadanggut for General Namyi, Agisee Gutdang in Haengdang-dong, Dodanggut in Bonghwa Mountainto examine the type and characteristics of official hats for shaman's costumes based on Seoul village gutas a spiritualistic shaman revealing the divinity of music for gutthrough singing, dancing, divine material and official hats. Commonly worn official hats were Goggal(conical hats), Jeonlip(soldier's felt hats), and Heuklip(black hats) for Seoul village gut as the object of thisstudy. Each official hat had a close relationship with subjects for divinity and musical meaning for gut. Julip(Red hats), Jokduri(bride's headpiece), helmets, Iksubgwan(King's official hat), and Daesu(Queen's a big wig with various hairpins) were also worn. Official hats worn for Seoul village gutwere understood to symbolize divinity and raise authority and dignity to the public through aggressive appearance, exaggeration and splendor. Concretely, official hats at Seoul village gut first had roles to materialize the divinity of each music of gut. Second, recognized as a part of performance or traditional culture in present day, aggressive official hats were favored to supply splendid attraction and maximize scenes of divined heroic epic poem in gut. Third, for Seoul village gut, colors and silhouettes of modern traditional costumes were reflected pursuing partial change and focused on exaggeration and splendor to express the mirth and festival of gutwhile maintaining traditional costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.71-87
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• 2010

The purpose of the study is analyzing Japanese modern costume, through examining legislation process and the relics of Chickimkwan's and Juimkwan's court costume. The results of the study are as follows. First, the proposer of civil court costume, established in 1872, was Iwakura Mission dispatched to America and Europe. The Mission realized the importance of preparing western-style costume in civilization from experience wearing traditional clothing at ceremony of presenting credentials in America. Afterwards, the Mission proposed that the government accept western-style as civil court costume and became first wearers in Japanese in England. Second, the difference, between ordinance and actual clothes worn by Iwakura Mission, occurred in process of legislation in 1872. That might be considered as trial and error in introducing different culture. The coexistence of England and French styles was unified into French style by the revision of civil court costume in 1886. Third, the pattern of paulownia embroidered on civil court costume was utilized as symbol of Japan. While the costume of Chickimkwan was embroidered by the pattern of 7 and 5 leaves paulownia, that of Juimkwan was 5 and 3 leaves expressing their grades. Fourth, relics research showed how formed manufacturer information and enacted design were in embroidery. The relics seemed to be manufactured in Japan, because emblem of Mitsukosi tailor was embroidered on inner part of the back of collar of Chickimkwan in Nara Women's University, Japan and that of Yamasaki on left inner pocket of Juimkwan in the Independence Hall, Korea. The embroider techniques comprised forming by filler particles according to the design, filling up coiled gold threads and expressing stem with gold threads and spangles. As preemptive study, establishment process of Japanese civil court costume in this study will help understand form characteristics appeared in civil court costume act of Korean Empire.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.129-141
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• 2007

In the cultural realm of Hinduism centering around India, traditional costumes such as Sari, and Dhoti are worn up to date under the influence of religious faith, tradition, and fundamentalism. The purpose of this study is to clarify the religious meaning of unstitched traditional Indian costume and inquire into the figurative beauty of it. This study revolved around India, and the aesthetic feature affected by hinduism was examined based on the literature references and the figurative feature and aesthetic value of unstitched costume were analyzed. The most important feature of Indian costume is the unstitched costume without joining pieces of cloth by using a needle and thread, symbolizing the purity based on the cosmology of Hindu. In the unstitched costume of India, natural drapery that is the large cloth, slipped or tied on body, wrapping it affluently, is emphasized. Unstitched costume of India, based on cosmology of Hindu and the concept of purity, is still broadly worn by people under the influence of fundamentalism and conservative atmosphere. Religious idea is expressed and a beauty of concealment, emphasizing the chastity, is shown in the unstitched costume of India, while a beauty of nature is distinctively revealed in the non-structural and asymmetric drapery costume due to the unique wearing style. In addition, 'A beauty of symbolism' appears in the wearing method, color, the part of wearing, and ornament. Religion has affected overall culture that is inclusive art, aesthetics, and social structure and has contributed to the formulation of costume style. Unstitched costume of India is the unique tradition of India and identity, based on the religious idea.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.183-190
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze social, economic and cultural phenomena of the luxury brand in the viewpoint that the consumption system of the modern society stood for the sign consumption and the industrial production of difference as Baudrillard mentioned in the Consumer Society. The result was divided into the two subjects popularization and differentiation of luxury brand. Firstly the meaning of luxury brand was that the personal effects of consumption of king or aristocratic class who did not exist in the modern and were made into the selection and consumption-possible things of exchange value. The popularization of this sign was accelerated through TV drama. Secondly as differentiation strategy of luxury brand, was made by giving meaning to the life style concept of the upper class with advertisement and design, and also the logo of design was used as sign differentiated from people. Also the reason why the producer of the luxury brand gave meaning to such life style was that the awareness of the brand which people have consistently makes them consume more products. The consumption system of the modern society stood for the sign consumption, difference sign mark value which was the desire on a social meaning basis, not the consumption of things as used value. And the consumer could express his personality by selecting and consuming the product of luxury brand model made with this sign. Accordingly the distribution, purchase, sales and acquisition of the things with this difference sign were our verbal activity and linguistic code today, and it was the essential feature of the society, culture and economy of the consumer society.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.745-755
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to observe school education system, higher education, and fashion education in Germany to find a good model for an desirable future education to lead a creative students in Korea, thereby reshaping curriculum. We also analysed the curriculum of the fashion design offered in Hochschule Pforzheim and Berlin University of Art. We used secondary data collection by literature reviews of articles and web sites on the internet. Results of this study are as follows: German school and education system oriented with differentiation even though there are variety of them. Students can select their education system, considering work field and their own life & humanities. Various fashion education institutions were found to have their own education concept to enhance creativity with different system. Our results of analysis of the fashion design program of Hochschule Pforzheim and Berlin University of Art show their creativity education in their curriculums with module basis. Two universities have a differentiate education direction for the same aim to do creative design study and research. We realized that students learn and get the knowledge and apply to the field with a long term internship, communication skill and presentation development courses. Project based modules enable students to be creative, and active human. Strong design basis, and humanities disciplines will support people to creative design works. These two universities offer a good model of program to build up self education drive, academic and practical ways of training, and project based, internship, etc.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.869-877
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• 2016

This study looks into the dyeing properties and functionality of cotton fabrics dyed in both the Spirodela polyrhiza extract and the extract resulting from the mixture of Salvia plebeia R. Br. and Spirodela polyrhiza. Since the UV-Vis Spectrum of the methanol extract of Spirodela polyrhiza shows absorption peaks at 256, 268nm, and 345nm, it can be inferred that the compound that Spirodela polyrhiza contains is a flavonoid. In addition, it can also be presumed that, by analyzing the infrared absorption spectrum of Spirodela polyrhiza, the plant contains flavonoid compounds, just like Salvia plebeia R. Br.. The UV protection factors of the cotton fabrics dyed in both the Spirodela polyrhiza extract and the extract from the mixture of Salvia plebeia R. Br. and Spirodela polyrhiza were 50+, presenting outstanding UV protection factors. The deodorization rate of the cotton dyed in the Spirodela polyrhiza extract was between 30 and 120 minutes, and the rate rose from 92% to 97% as time passed. The deodorization rate of the cotton dyed in the extract from the mixture of Salvia plebeia R. Br. and Spirodela polyrhiza increased from 88% to more than 91%. The result also revealed that overall the fastness of color, including color fastness to washing related to change in color, as well as the color fastness to light of the fabric dyed in the extract from the mixture of the two plants improved, compared to the cloth dyed only in Spirodela polyrhiza extract. Furthermore, the antibacterial activity was also strengthened.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.267-284
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to extract the color chip from the works of Matisse with the exotic tastes, to analyze the characters of adjacent colors, and to suggest the color coordination of artistic character. The research method is based on the literature study which analyzes visual materials. The results are as follows. Considering the colors of Japanese taste, He employs vivid and strong tone in red, yellow, and blue, light tone in pink, purple, and green and deep tone in green, purple, blue and black. His color scheme is very bold and splendid. In his Algerian taste, red is very popular, but an attention should be paid in his development of orange and blue tones. In general, the usage of various tones brings colors into less relief and make the contrast of tones more conspicuous. His Spanish taste, based on red and orange, attracts attentions with strong impressions, but sometimes, dark or adjacent pale tones creates strong, mild and murky atmosphere. The Moroccan taste, based on the development of blue tones which have strong attraction implies the lightness but represents silent and calm. The Rumanian taste, represented in primary colors of red, yellow and blue and achromatic colors is bright and clear. In addition, its light tone in various colors represents peace and romance. The coordination of the exotic colors with the unique adjacent colors created by Matisse is not based on the established color coordination theory, but extracts colors in the aspect of culture borrowing. Therefore, it can double the effects of the color scheme expressed in the existing designs and be used as the global and multi-cultural design sources.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.4
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• pp.61-75
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• 2015

This research aims to analyze the prep-hop fashion, which is an original look created through the convergence of the hip-hop and preppy look, and identify the design characteristics of the prep-hop fashion. The style mixes the fashion of what was traditionally a lower-class look with the upper class. The design characteristics are as follows: First, the prep-hop fashion expresses slim, casual and sophisticated look with items and silhouettes. The items are categorized into jackets, shirts and pants. The prep-hop jackets provides a casual look to its wearer unlike the jackets of preppy or conservative looks. Slim suits show different meanings and features depending on the changes in the time and culture despite the continued use of the items. Second, the colors of the prep-hop fashion include overall basic colors used in the preppy look and hip-hop fashion. The aesthetic values of the colors express pleasant color images different from the conservative and resistant images expressed in the preppy and hip-hop style before the convergence, respectively. Third, the materials and patterns are expressed in a unique way to fulfill the emotional needs that are considered vital to contemporary fashion. The materials in the prep-hop fashion extend the ranges of usage by using the materials with unexpectedness broken out of general range of usage. While the use of the patterns is one of the methods to demonstrate that the prep-hop fashion is created by the convergence between hip-hop fashion and preppy look, the meaning concludes pleasantness and casualness different from the past. Fourth, the prep-hop fashion is mainly composed of hip-hop fashion accessories, which express the authenticity of the hip-hop fashion to protect the non-mainstream characteristics. The design characteristics of the prep-hop fashion pursue the individuality of the contemporary fashion, which lacks originality due to commercialization. The development of the prep-hop fashion, as a new form that combined contrasting genres and trends, is expected to develop more publicly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.79-96
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• 2012

Creativity is a rising topic in the current society. The emphasis on creativity is valued as a key factor for success in all areas including but not limited to politics, economy, culture, arts and design. The field of Fashion design is probably one of the few areas that talk about creativity as a necessary quality to survive. The purpose of this study is to introduce TRIZ(Teoriya Reshniya Izobretatelsskikh Sadatch) as a theoretical tool to generate creativity in fashion design. TRIZ is a creative method of problem solving based on data analysis of outcomes invented by engineering. The fundamental concept of TRIZ has been researched through documentary studies, and practical case studies of product designs are used. Fashion design cases from Comme des Garcons by Rei Kawakubo are used to apply TRIZ in fashion design. Rei Kawakubo's design philosophy has been studied through fashion writings and visual sources in books, exhibition catalog, www. style. com and online shopping mall sites. This study has selected four principles among forty inventive theories of TRIZ: segmentation; asymmetry; consolidation; and preliminary action to apply to Rei Kawakubo's fashion design. As a result, TRIZ can be applicable to fashion design as a creative thinking methodology. By using the four principles of TRIZ, this study shows how Rei Kawakubo's design enhanced its efficiency and aesthetics of the products and was distinguished from existing items. It is meaningful to demonstrate a possibility of adopting engineering based creative methodology in fashion design to widen the perspective and to raise a question for the need of interdisciplinary creative methodology with traditional aesthetic approach in fashion design.