• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.2
• /
• pp.296-308
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to understand Qipao, that Chinese traditional women's cloth, and analysis the aesthetic characteristics of that. Joining WTO in 2002 and 2008 Beijing Olympic made China get the attention by the world and get the opportunity that advent of China style. Chinese fashion cultural contents have abundant meanings in internal or external, therefore characteristics aesthetic of Chinese traditional fashion had much influence in world fashion design. Qipao that has influence in contemporary fashion design could be used special fashion design data for China market. A variety of literature and prior researches for Qipao's history and transition process was studied. Internal and external documents, fashion magazines, internet information were investigated to study features of Qipao. Total 20 seasons fashion collections from 2000S/S to 2009F/W was examined, and selected 22 brands that showed Qipao style, after then extracted 418 photos among them. By the seasons, Eit showed 193 pieces in S/S and 225 pieces in F/W, and was put to practical use in F/W season than S/S. The results are as follows. The contemporary fashion collections shown in the Qipao style silhouette, detail, color, material, pattern and the results obtained by each, were in all respects diversity. In silhouette, including traditional tight silhouettes, 'H' silhouettes, boxy silhouette was such a variety. The five colors traditionally preferred color from the color was more of a tendency to be gorgeous. Modern reinterpretation of pattern designs by graphic pattern that has emerged. Also, shown in a contemporary fashion collection Qipao style leather material in application utilizing the glossy feel of a plastic material and has emerged feeling.

• Journal of the HCI Society of Korea
• /
• v.3 no.1
• /
• pp.39-47
• /
• 2008

A mobile phone became the practical necessities of Chinese life that can not be explained without a mobile phone as it is rapidly popularized in China in recent years. As income increases due to economic growth, so did desire to buy better products. And This desire has made consumers in China more concerned about design and consequently leads to artistic design of a mobile phone. And also this trend is getting linked to people's personalisation in that people prefer rather to choose products they like than standardized ones in the middle of a variety of cultural inflows. This study mainly focuses on the development of the characterized mobile phone with a high class brand by use of traditional elements and of design identity of a mobile phone with Chines style that is well harmonized with cultural and personalized identity as consumers' preferences are quite different from each other depending on each country's culture. For this, this study investigates traditional elements such as patterns, colors and characters as well as development and features of the mobile phone design. This will also lead to the development of a mobile phone with traditional elements of China by studying utilization of design with traditional patterns. To do this, the study analyzes to research traditional patterns(Dragon, Phoenix, Peony, Lotus Flower), colors(Red, Yellow, Blue, Black, White) and historical origin and concept of characters. The study also looks into instances and personalisation of mobile phone design by analyzing literatures.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.12 no.4
• /
• pp.599-613
• /
• 2004

The purpose for this paper is to find the common characteristics of Korean traditional clothing, which is largely affected by Chinese arts and culture. There are many different theories about Faking Opera＇s orgine but an established character is an ensemble song and dance. It virtually represent overall Chinese arts. There are four characters in the Peking Opera ; Sheng, Dan, Jing, and Chuck. Sheng is divided into Nosheng, Sosheng, Musheng and Hongsheng based on their dramatic skills. Also, Sheng requires various acting skills : song, dance, dialogue, act and fighting skill. Peking Opera＇s stage costume was set up in Qing dynasty though it＇s style was embellished with mainly Ming dynasty＇s clothing style. The rankings and personalties of the role are strictly applied to decide what to wear. Artistic exaggeration, symbol and transfiguration, use of colors are equally important in planning the stage costume.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.30 no.3
• /
• pp.331-347
• /
• 2022

The purpose of this study is to investigate historical and geographical environments in the development of the Naxi costumes of Chinese ethnic minorities and their characteristics-including religious cultures and totem worship-and to suggest the direction of fashion design toward the modernization of traditional costumes. The research methodology involved the collection of materials and investigatation into the history, culture, and characteristics of Naxi costumes; in particular, the "seven-star" sheepskin cape, one of the Naxi people's important ethnic costumes as demonstrated by the women's clothing that has been designed in reflection of this traditional costume. The results are as follows. First, Naxi costumes are found to have overall coherence and distinct locality when retained in the process of modernizing the traditional costume. The theme of this work is titled "By the Light of the Moon and the Stars," which is expressed in contemporary fashion by the use of grey and dark red against a background of black, a color preferred by the Naxi people. Second, the Naxi people's seven-star sheepskin cape is a symbol of women's clothing with its characteristic patterns, shapes, and colors, and it is subject to creative modernization while retaining its unique ethnic characteristics. Third, the work expresses the contemporary stylishness of the costume while maintaining the customary decorative accessories from the Naxi people's traditional culture.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.5 no.5
• /
• pp.443-452
• /
• 2003

People have been getting interested in the Orientalism and it has come up in various areas due to scientific progress. I designed uniforms, which was simple and western, to show its symbolic meanings in the Orientalism. And I have been trying to generalize uniforms with originality and beauty. I have studied the process of the Orientalism and its changes and transitions, concepts and origins in history. And I applied the styles of Korean, Japanese and Chineses costume on it. I also referred to characters of uniforms, which already had images of Korea, Japan and China. Firstly, Korean styles have a contrast in colors by application of Taegeuk. And they gave lines with dark colors in black one-piece dress. This makes people who are wearing looking slimmer. White ramie top looks fresh and Korean traditional tie called Maedeup is set up for button. Secondly, Japanese styles were mainly Kimono style, one piece. They changed into two pieces designed to be active. So, it has emphasized the image of Kimono with Obi at the waist. Thirdly, Chinese styles basically are Chipao style, which has a Chinese collar and a long skirt, which has opening. But they gradually changed into short skirts and more open in the chest. For one of them, they gave lines in the side of chest, sleeves and skirt to be more natural. The costumes have kept their positions as a part of mass society that grows and changes with speed. And oriental uniforms are not just uniforms any longer only for work. It is quite symbolic like a 'second face' as it represents images for their countries and enterprises.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.15 no.3
• /
• pp.69-83
• /
• 2013

Clothes show not just the different social status of people, but the ideology and value of former society through pattern, colour, materials, shapes, etc. The purpose of this article is to fill the academic blank of this part by researching the pattern of fabric design in Jing Pai(Beiing style) and Hai Pai(Shanghai style) cheong-sam during the period of the Republic of China. The contrastive analysis of regional pattern between Jing Pai and Hai Pai cheong-sam expect to provide the theoretical basis for the former fashion designers and scholars. There are three approaches in the article: Data collection method, comparison method and Combining theory with practice method as film. Regarding components of pattern, both Jing Pai and Hai Pai cheong-sam have mostly single or composite pattern like plants. Further the most of Jing Pai cheong-sam pattern is traditional flower pattern. But Haipai cheong-sam patterns have some western flower pattern. Beside that, it have some geometry pattern. Regarding arrangement of the pattern, both cheong-sams have scattered dot style, the border style, and pictures style. But continuous type of Jing Pai cheong-sam is less while Hai Pai cheong-sam is the most. Comparing Jing Pai cheong-sam color of patterns in "Moment in Peking" is unadorned and types are simple as chinese traditional clothes; However, "In the Mood for Love" introduces us various material colors, new types of patterns and extraneous characteristic geometry patterns of Hai Pai cheong-sam. Generally speaking, the main characteristic of Jing Pai cheong-sam is traditional and conservatism. It keeps Chinese traditional pattern and culture to the most extent. However, Hai Pai cheong-sam are confluent and open with absorbed external culture and techniques which are endowed new artistic color.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.18 no.4
• /
• pp.31-46
• /
• 2016

This study would inquire into the fashion image and design characteristics of Peng Liyuan, the first lady of China that has a mighty influence on the recent global economy and consumption. For this purpose, first, this study investigated the fashion image of Peng Liyuan according to the role which she performs as a first lady and analyzed how the fashion image appears and changes by year and role type. Second, this study analyzed the design characteristics of Peng Liyuan's fashion image, focusing on the silhouette, fashion items, coordinated items, colors, and textile patterns. The scope of the research was limited to the dresses worn by Peng Liyuan from March 14, 2013 to September 30, 2015. The fashion image of Peng Liyuan changed from classic and elegant image to modern image till 2015, and she reduced ethnic image and emphasized romantic image. In international diplomatic visits, she tried to express the confidence and potential of China through classic, ethnic and modern image, while in formal events of China, she showed an intention to communicate with the Chinese public with soft intimacy through elegant and ethnic images. As design characteristics in her fashion image, she flexibly changed her fashion image by the composition of silhouettes and items, which could cover her mid-life body type and made use of the form and detail of Chinese traditional qipao, appropriate coordination of scarves and brooches, the combination of chromatic color and achromatic color, appropriate uses of textile patterns and the delivery of China's image according to place and purpose. The study of Peng Liyuan's fashion image has significance to understand the fashion trend as a role model of fashion for the Chinese people and can help the domestic fashion industry that aims at the Chinese market in the future by predicting Chinese women' Fashion trend.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
• /
• v.47 no.2
• /
• pp.70-79
• /
• 2015

This study was carried out to analyze deterioration characteristics of color-pigments painted Hanji to preserve and restore the cultural properties. On the traditional painting technique, glue was used with pigments in various ways for painting, but it eventually caused the deterioration of paintings. Thus, five colors were selected and analyzed for this study for investigating their characteristics of deteriration. Three kinds of glues (Wugyo, Nokgyo, and Togyo) and two kinds of pigments (Chinese and Gilsang) were painted on the Hanji for the accelerated aging test. And then color fastness of pigments and tensile strength of painted Hanji were measured for the estimation of deterioration degree. The results of SEM-EDS showed that Chinese pigments including blue, yellow, green, and red were composed of inorganic substances but the brown was organic substance. Gilsang pigments were composed mainly of Si and Ti ions. Color fastness of the Gilsang pigment blue, yellow, green, and brown were better than those of Chinese. Chinese pigment brown with organic substance showed the worst color fastness. Generally, Chinese pigments painted Hanji showed higher tensile strength than Gilsang in the accelerated aging test. Hanji treated with Chinese pigment and Nokgyo (antler glue) blends and Gilsang pigment and Togyo (rabbit pelt glue) blends showed higher tensile strength than the others. And Andong Hanji showed the highest tensile strength.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.17 no.2
• /
• pp.185-205
• /
• 2015

The modern trend in costumes, influenced by postmodernism, is to use of various patterns and images borrowed from diverse cultures of many ethnic groups. The Yi tribe studied in this paper is miner ethnic group in China, whose traditional costume is very splendid and modern. In addition, its embroidery or $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ pattern have a high artistic value in that its shapes are diverse, splendid and each one has its own peculiar elegance. As for the research method, I examined the Yi tribe's history, culture, traditional costumes and patterns through related books, research papers and inter web sites. As for the result, the Yi tribe's costumes consisted of a jacket, trousers or a skirt, an apron and a belt. Although the favorite color of the costume is black color, there are splendid embroidery or $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ decorations with the colors of red, yellow, green and purple on the chest or shoulder part of a jacket, the adjusting lines, cuffs or a part of a trousers and aprons. Patterns in their traditional clothing also show details that depict traditional cultural ideas that have long been formed in various fields, such as aesthetics, religion, philosophy, and customs. Moreover, most patterns displayed in their traditional clothing contain nature motifs and represent unique and beautiful designs; some patterns are even reminiscent of abstract paintings by modern artists. In conclusion, the traditional patterns of Chinese ethnic minorities reflect the values and notions of these races as well as decorative magnificence and a unique spiritual image. In other words, traditional patterns indicate the spiritual depth or symbolic stories beyond mere formative beauty.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.22 no.1
• /
• pp.15-32
• /
• 2020

This study aims to develop contemporary fashion designs from the unique Yao minority costumes and to explore the possibility of developing creative designs by using knitting materials. The research method is based on the cultural clothing and costumes of the Chinese ethnic minority, as well as literature concerning the Yao costumes and photo data to investigate the cultural background and characteristics apparent in Yao costumes. The overall design characteristics of Yao costumes are as follows. First, the shape of Yao costumes are divided into straight-lined short tops with pleated skirts or shorts, or cardigan tops with pants and aprons, or long shirts, pants, and a belt. Each variant of tribal clothing is different. Second, the colors used are mainly black or dark blue, and these are accented by other colors, such as red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and white. Third, the clothing patterns are mainly in plant, animal, natural, geometric, and human, etc. motifs. The most common patterns in daily life are the patterns using geometric shapes, plants, or animals. Using the background of the unique lifestyles of the Yao ethnic minority, this study applied hand knitting and jacquard techniques for a knit fashion design. In order to develop traditional patterns, Yao patterns were entered into an Illustrator and SDS-ONE APEX3-4 was used for simulation. Using wool fibers as the raw material; the knitting machine used a Bird's eye Jacquard technique-10GG. The results of this research and design work were as follows. First, the knitted clothing design using Yao clothing elements has significance for the development and flexible use of ethnic elements in contemporary creative design. Second, the straight cut design using hand-knitted and jacquard-knit fabrics can minimize waste materials and provide more possibilities for sustainable design development. Third, it provides additional methods for the combination of hand-knitting and jacquard knitting fashion design.