• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.14
• /
• pp.75-85
• /
• 1990

The dress and personal adorments of Chi Li in Li Chi was investigated in this study. The summary of this study is as follows: It was found that the ancient Chinese used their dress and personal adornments as an important means of maintaining or establishing harmony with the universe, supernaturals, and human beings. It also appeared that dress was used to control man's psychology and to maintain social order. Differentiation of person's social status and position was made by using dress and personal adornments. Ceremonial costume such as mourning appeared considerably in Chi Li.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.9 no.1
• /
• pp.1-14
• /
• 2009

This study is intended to examine the modernization of Chinese costumes through historical events, and to analyze the characteristics of the costume modernization process. The modernization of Chinese costumes appears to have begun with the Opium Wars, and the Nanjing Treaty(1842), the Beijing Treaty(1860) and the official residence of western people in Chinese territory. Afterwards, in order to initiate change, the Chinese people themselves implemented the Westernization movement(1861-94), placing an emphasis on the westernization of external elements such as technology and form, but aspects such as costume, deeply saturated in their traditions, do not appear to have changed significantly. Despite self-empowering movements such as these, as western forces diffused deeper into the Chinese mainland, neo-intellectuals formed the axis of a revolutionary movement. A major example can be found in the Xinhai Revolution(1911) revolution, which forbade the binding of feet and shaving of frontal hair and partially implemented western formal dress. Through these factors, the modernization process of Chinese costume demonstrates characteristics of an adherence to traditional dress and partial acceptance of western attire. Through this, we may understand the modern costumes of China, which adhered more to tradition than Japan, which pursued western costumes actively within a similar period, and Korea, which rushed modernization due to Japanese authority.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.5
• /
• pp.106-116
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study was to investigate the image evaluation of chinese female college students according to coloration of dress shirt and necktie and necktie width. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimulus and response scales. The stimuli were 12 color pictures, in which the hue(red, blue), tone(lt-shirt/dk-tie, dk-shirt/lt-tie), and necktie width(narrow, medium, width) were manipulated. The 7-point scale was used for evaluation of image. The subjects of this research were 120 chinese female college students living in Shandong, China. The investigation was carried out at April-May 2009. The data were analyzed by using SPSS program. Analysis methods were ANOVA and Duncan-test. The results of this study were as follows.; The analyses of image according to coloration of dress shirt and necktie and necktie width revealed that the concerned factors are four characteristic dimensions of ability-elegance, youth-attractiveness, appeal, and warmness. Hue showed an independent effect on ability-elegance, appeal, and warmness. Tone showed an independent effect on appeal and warmness. Necktie width showed an independent effect on appeal. In addition, interaction effects of hue and tone on ability-elegance were found. Interaction effects of hue and necktie width on appeal were found. Interaction effects of tone and necktie width on youth-attractiveness were found.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.15
• /
• pp.47-54
• /
• 1990

Kyu-Soo Park wrote the book "Gur Ga Jap Bok Ko" (Proposition for Household Casuals) around A.D. 1865. He was a widely-learned man and a proponent of Korean self-consciou-seness like his fellow Pragmafist against then prevailing Chinese influence, which had already penetrated deeply into ordinary life style. According to this fact we can see not only the general dress-cystoms but the new customs of some high-birth People with evident self-consciouseness like him at that time. For example, they wore "Sim Eui" and "Bok Gun" as the dress of their ordinary life in spite of the general dress custom wearing the "Do Po" (Traditional Korean full-dress attire) and "Gat" (Traditional cylindrical Korean hat) as an ordinary or a ceremonial dress irrespective of rank at that time. Women wore an overcoat with "Chima" and "Jur. Go Ri" instead of the shortened "Jur, Go Ri" and buttock exagerating "Chima" largely popular at that time too. And also wore "So Eui" instead of "won Sam" or "Dang Eui" prevailing for the psychological resemblance of higher ranking group. Male yougnsters wore "Sa Gyu Sam" as an ordinary life dress and Girls wore "Chima and Jur Go Ri".

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.37 no.3
• /
• pp.357-370
• /
• 2013

The Republican Period of China (1912 to 1949) was when the archetypes of thought (constituting contemporary China) engaged in heated rivalry and were directly influenced by Korea through frequent exchanges. This study analyzes the characteristic of Chinese women's aesthetics towards the human body with a focus on visual materials (such as articles and illustrations concerning hairstyle, makeup, skincare, fashion, and gymnastics) featured in the Chinese women magazines of Fun$\ddot{u}$zazhi (婦女雜誌) and Linglong (玲瓏). This study analyzes these magazines and compares them with Korean counterparts. The movement of the developed and controlled human body was a common characteristic of this period; however, compared to the Chinese, the Japanese colonial period of Korea resulted in an introspective self-examination through excessively objectified eyes. Dress and adornment as the symbol of a new civilization acted as the most remarkable signifier. The overlapping of a western image with a Japanese image led to more resistance in Korea. The criterion for the value of a women's external appearance (that traditionally dualized womanly virtues) collapsed and dress was accepted as an expression of individuality instead of as a social class. The human body was traditionally recognized as a microcosm of the universe that dominated the natural principle of Yin-Yang and the Five Elements. However, the ideal human body was postulated and the aesthetic consciousness of the body changed into an imaginary view of the human body that proceeded to keep the body fit for and gave birth to the concept of supplementing the deficiency of the beauty of the human body with dress and makeup.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.46 no.2
• /
• pp.250-271
• /
• 2022

Traditional wedding dresses have had a high market demand in China in recent years. Traditional wedding dresses from the Tang dynasty occupy an important position among traditional Chinese dresses, and they are also favored by young women. This study was conducted to develop the rushan and qun patterns of traditional wedding dress styles from the Tang dynasty for women in their twenties in China. For this purpose, the rushan and qun patterns of Tang and Song dynasty dresses and modern traditional dresses were collected and analyzed. Additionally, the developed patterns were validated for suitability through appearance evaluations of virtual and real fittings. The following proportions of the developed patterns were proposed: H/3.3 for rushan length, H/33 for collar width, H/1.08 for total sleeve length, H/6 for sleeve width, H/8.5 for sleeve hem width, and H/1.55 for qun length. In addition, the developed patterns received high scores in the appearance evaluations of the virtual and real fittings. Therefore, the developed rushan and qun patterns are expected to have high utility in the current traditional wedding dress industry.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.12 no.2
• /
• pp.107-118
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is to be data and to help understanding of pattern of Korean, Chinese and Japanese traditional dress. The methods of this study are the study of academic literatures as well as practical study through the analysis of case studies about actual works. The summary of this study's results is like followings. First, standard of Pattern are nature, mam-made in motif object, Naturalistic, Geometric, Stylized, Abstract in motif express, Order, Disorder in pattern express. Second, a point of sameness of motif object in traditional dress of three nations were that nature and letter abstractive of mam-made is a lot. but motif of Japan was used in daily life motif of mam-made which was not in Korea and China Third, commonly, motif expression of three nations were developed Naturalistic, Stylized. but in Naturalistic, Korea was simple, plane, China was three-dimensional, Japan was expressed super realism. Fourth, as formative aesthetic of Pattern, Korea is natural, plane, simple and symbolic, China is gorgeous, three-dimensional, immaculacy, filling and symbolic, Japan is delicate, complicated, decoration and symbolic.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.6 no.1
• /
• pp.71-82
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study was to correctly understand the costume of Qing dynasty in the court painting. The starting point of this study was that the painting typically reflects the cultural values, social significations, costume and aesthetic outlook of that period when the paintings were done. Based on this regard, this study analyzed the costume of figure paintings in the court painting of the Qing dynasty that complied and edited by the Palace Museum. The court dress of Qing dynasty represented not only the spiritual world of Manchu tribes but also the influences of Chinese traditional culture. The court dresses of Kangxi and Qianloug showed definitely the luxury of life of Qing court. The everyday dress of Qing dynasty reflected the nomadic environments and it was very simple. The hunting dress of Qing dynasty was very developed and also represented horse riding and hunting activities of their traditional life. The ladies of Qing dynasty enjoyed to dress the costume of old Chinese style. The appearance of noble women was fragile and slim.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.2
• /
• pp.121-133
• /
• 2004

This study is about japanese national suit. women's standard dress, and mompe, which were used as a means of controlling people's life and simplifying people's clothing during the chinese-japanese war(1937) and the pacific war(1941-1945). National suit was a semi-military uniform for men and it was the western style suit composed of jacket, under shirt, and pants. National suit was not popular during the early war, but it became popular afterward. Women's standard dress had the two kinds of styles : the kimono and the western style. Women's standard dress was not popularly distributed. Instead, many japanese women wore mompe, the active wear of standard dress. Almost all of japanese women wore mompe by the end of war because of its practical use. The effects of national suit, standard dress, and mompe on the rapid westernization of postwar japanese clothing can be summarized as follows. First, national suit and standard dress contributed to the official acceptance of the western clothes as japanese daily clothes. Second, national suit, standard dress, and mompe changed the traditional view of japanese on clothing and caused the rapid westernization of japanese clothing with the high emphasis on the practical and functional use of clothing. Especially, as japanese women wore mompe as the outer garment, mompe affected the view of japanese on women's body and it served as an important stimulus to speed the westernization of japanese women's clothing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.13 no.4
• /
• pp.1-20
• /
• 2009

The main investigation of this thesis is about the comparative analysis of the fashion style preferences in the ages of 20-30 women, according to the style, by researching the area of Dalian and Seoul, represented as outstanding fashion cities in north eastern area. Both taking pictures and recording camcoders were performed at the famous fashion street in Seoul and Dalian. The period of investigation was from 24th of July to 2nd of August 2008. The result of research are as follows. Generally, the casual style was predominant in both area. The jean casual in Seoul was somewhat tidy and conservative, while that in Dalian showed the tendency of boldly exposed their body. In terms of easy casual, T-shirts and mini-tight skirt were preferred in Seoul, while T-shirts and midi-flare skirt was popular in Dalian. In Seoul, the blouse and mini skirt were in vogue, while one-piece dress, blouse and 5/7/9 length pants were prevalent in Dalian, in case of romantic style. The sports casual was relatively low in frequency in both areas, however, it was relatively more popular in Dalian than in Seoul. The frequency of classic style was similar in both areas. The T-shirts/blouse and Chanel-line skirt were preferred in Seoul, while the combination of jacket/shirts and full-length straight pants were preferred in Dalian. The one-piece dress was predominant in feminine style, the combination of mini one-piece dress and shoulder bag prevalent in Seoul, while the combination of Chanel-line one-piece dress designed as boldly exposed body was popular in Dalian, which shows the tendency of sexy, feminine style. The clear contrast or differences of street styles in Seoul and Dalian would become evident by this research. The continuous investigations into the various regions of China would be expected as an important measure for the successful launching into the Chinese fashion market.