• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.26-39
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• 2001

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.1
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• pp.13-31
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• 2001

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.167-180
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to present the use of traditional culture and the direction of various fashion designs by developing and producing contemporary fashion designs on the Muslim costumes of the Chinese Hui minority. Based on research methods, the cultural background was investigated and the design characteristics were summarized. Based on the results of this survey, 4 sets of women's fashion were designed. The design intent was to feature Muslim traditional costumes and to adopt a functional contemporary design. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, simple and indecisive clothing shows the innocent and good side of the congregation. In this study, traditional dresses were used to make use of the simple silhouette and color, and to create a contemporary atmosphere, various materials, such as wool, glossy industrial complex, lace, and fur were used to create a modern sense design by adding diversity to the simple silhouette. Second, the biggest feature of the regimented Muslim costume focuses on a head cover and suggests a contemporary sense of hood improvement, and a design that can be used with two sides. These hooded head covers can provide fashion and diversity and can be proposed as functional. Third, contemporary Muslim fashion is gaining global attention and it is possible to develop various fashion designs based on traditional motifs. This study was able to increase the feminine image by changing the solemnity of the communal dress without discarding the foundation of the traditional religious culture based on the daily dress of the people.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.51-66
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of the traditional color sentiment on the contemporary clothing color by studying the pictures of street fashion of Dalian in China, in view of the clothing color of women in their 20-30 years of age having highest purchasing power, along with traditional Chinese color. The clothing color is various in frequency depending on the items in street fashion. Due to the seasonal impact of summer, the most frequent item was one-piece dress with the Multi of various color patterns, followed by White, Black, PB, R and B category. In the top color, the White was most prevalent color due to the seasonal factor, followed by Black, Grey, Multi, R, Y, RP category. Achromatic color is more dominant with the ratio of 7:3, comparing with its counterpart, which consists of R and Y category of V, B, P, VP tone. In the bottom color, Dp tone of PB shows most high frequency, followed by Black. This results illustrate that Chinese women prefer blue jeans and to be looked as slimmer by using of the dark colors. In the accessories, colors of bags and shoes show different results. The bag colors show the high frequency of Dk tone, YR category, and the chromatic colors are little bit dominant than achromatic ones with the ratio of 5.3:4.7. On the contrary, the shoes colors show the highest frequency in Black, the achromatic colors are more dominant than chromatic ones with the ratio of 6.6:3.4. These results somewhat diverge from the international color trend. Color trend in Dalian street fashion in which the high frequency of V tone is observed through all the colors of the items followed by P, VP, Lgr tone in sequence. In the light of Chinese traditional color preference, this result denotes that the traditional color preferences of red, yellow are still affecting the contemporary color choices of clothing in Chinese women. The high incidence of PB category in the bottom and one-piece dress does not seem to have its origin form traditional Chinese color sentiment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.357-370
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• 2013

The Republican Period of China (1912 to 1949) was when the archetypes of thought (constituting contemporary China) engaged in heated rivalry and were directly influenced by Korea through frequent exchanges. This study analyzes the characteristic of Chinese women's aesthetics towards the human body with a focus on visual materials (such as articles and illustrations concerning hairstyle, makeup, skincare, fashion, and gymnastics) featured in the Chinese women magazines of Fun$\ddot{u}$zazhi (婦女雜誌) and Linglong (玲瓏). This study analyzes these magazines and compares them with Korean counterparts. The movement of the developed and controlled human body was a common characteristic of this period; however, compared to the Chinese, the Japanese colonial period of Korea resulted in an introspective self-examination through excessively objectified eyes. Dress and adornment as the symbol of a new civilization acted as the most remarkable signifier. The overlapping of a western image with a Japanese image led to more resistance in Korea. The criterion for the value of a women's external appearance (that traditionally dualized womanly virtues) collapsed and dress was accepted as an expression of individuality instead of as a social class. The human body was traditionally recognized as a microcosm of the universe that dominated the natural principle of Yin-Yang and the Five Elements. However, the ideal human body was postulated and the aesthetic consciousness of the body changed into an imaginary view of the human body that proceeded to keep the body fit for and gave birth to the concept of supplementing the deficiency of the beauty of the human body with dress and makeup.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.328-345
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• 2021

The aim of this study is to investigate morphological characteristics of Hanbok images in children's books and propose a direction for the modernization and globalization of traditional culture. This study examines 43 children's books by contemporary foreign illustrators that contain Hanbok illustrations and analyzes them from postcolonial perspective. The results include the following three attributes: first, the transformation of clothing structure and donning method that confuse fundamentals of Korean costume; second, the Westernization of silhouette drawing with tailored garments analogous to Western dress; and third, extension to East Asian dress that represents Hanbok mixed with Chinese or Japanese costume and use what is considered to be the East Asian patterns instead of Korean traditional ones. These attributes are based on Eurocentrism, which expresses and interprets the East from the Western view point with continuously distorted image of the East. Korean illustrators also painted Hanbok incorrectly, which could influence foreign illustrators. Nevertheless, traditional dress illustrated in various ways has artistic value and has a popular global impression. Further, it enables children to experience either own or other cultures through dress illustrations. Thus, the outsider requires an in-depth understanding of other cultures, while the insider needs a critical perception of their own culture as described by others while revisiting the original resources. Furthermore, we suggest follow-up research on Hanbok for subsequent generations; publishing translated books on various topics, producing and disseminating a primer for diverse readers, and essentially receiving counsel from experts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.12
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• pp.2022-2038
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• 2010

Our study was designed to provide some insights on positive country image and the mechanisms of influence that Asian fashion industries can draw upon for future benefit. We focused on a country image and fashion products with Asian ethnic influence. Asian traditional costume elements reflected in contemporary fashion products may be important representative tools for national cultural identity. This study qualitatively investigated how and to what extent country image and additional information influence the evaluation of fashion products influenced by Chinese, Japanese, and Korean traditional dress. We conducted four focus-group interviews (FGI) with 30 students from a fashion program at a university in the United States. We analyzed the evaluation of fashion products influenced by Chinese, Japanese, and Korean traditional dress, and their associations with country image. Our qualitative analysis offered more developed empirical evidence for the various paths through which country image affects the evaluation of fashion products influenced by the ethnic dress of Asians. The results of our study showed that the more direct the source of prior knowledge, the larger the influence on product evaluation. This study showed that certain cues in the evaluation of fashion products with Asian ethnic influence induce changes in the affective state (that stem from the psychological and social nature of fashion products) and illustrate the necessity of considering the affective processes involved in the appropriate use of the country image. In the fashion industry, extrinsic properties such as the country image significantly influence the attitude and purchasing decisions of consumers. The significance of this study lies in its verification of the relationship between the country image and additional information. Modular and situational-contextual influences are also revealed as important factors that deserve more attention, as well as considerations regarding the dimensions of the country image described in attitude theory.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.661-680
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine to change in the Chinese women's clothing according to the inflow of Western culture in the first half of the both century As for the research method, both literature and visual data are reviewed. Research results are as follows: The Step of transition in clothing by period followed beginning stage, adopted stage, early developed stage, fully developed stage, and static stage. fully developed stage showed a perfect compromise while being applied to Chinese costume with being introduced a three-dimensional cutting method of western clothing even to the constitution as well as to the appearance. Design elements from western clothing are as follows. The transition of silhouette is box silhouette, trapeze silhouette, shift silhouette, and fitted silhouette. In detail and trimming, tailored, band, convertible, shirts collar and zigzag, scallop, camisole neckline and puff, cap sleeve and flounced, bell shaped cuffs and western button, zipper, etc. are adopted. Finally, the Chinese modern style are formed by accepting and transforming the western clothing based on the traditional Chinese clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.160-177
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• 2002

Wedding ceremony is a most basic and significant rite of religion. Clothing fur the ceremony is also assumed religious in essence. Thus this study focuses on ideas and religious qualities implied in wedding dresses for women in the latter period of Chosen. Among those wedding dresses for women in the public class, in this study, Yeom-Eui(염의), Won-Sam(원삼) in green and Hwal-Ot(활옷) are discussed. Yeom-Eui seemed preferred by only some of the nobel class who still considered manners and customs as very important. The rest people often wore a brilliant Hwal-Ot rather than Yeom-Eui under influences of a loosened social position system and sumptuous moods. Since a wedding is the reflection of social condition and at the same time a religious rite, the above mentioned difference in wedding dresses between the class of scholars obsessed with Confucianism and the rest public seems attributable to differences in values and religious views between the two groups. Of course, Hwal-Ot was also transmitted from the Chinese nation of Tang, so it complied with a contemporary flunkeyism about Chinese culture. Won-Sam and Hwal-Ot were designed with patterns representing the very significance of wedding and those wishing worldly blessings more children and more sons, longevity and wealth and prosperity. The fact that wishes of more children and more sons were more often implied by patterns of wedding dress in the latter Chosen indicates the legitimate oldest son-oriented patriarchical family system at that time influenced to such contemporary dresses. Meanwhile, those patterns used for Won-Sam and Hawl-Ot were influenced mainly by Confucianism, but sometimes based on Buddhism and Taoism. It suggests that the Chosun dynasty emphasized Confucian manners and customs to restore previous values which had been about to be collapsed since wars with the Chinese Ching and Japan, but nevertheless in the public class, Buddhism and Taoism were more deeply prevailed. This was supported by patterns and colors shown in wedding clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.283-292
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• 2002

This study is to examine the costume and features in Asuka period and the results are as follows. Asuka period is the time that the country loader positively imported the continental civilization, founded a new country organization in political society and accepted Buddhism and exerted his best passion for its thriving. As the result of examining the costume and features of Asuka period when the requirement for accepting the foreign culture was met via the present costume regulation and relics material, it was found that the costume had a considerable difference between of the ruling classes with government official and noble as the center and the common people. As for the costume of the ruling-classed official and noble, Korean and Chinese costume regulation was introduced, court dress, ceremonial dress, and uniform were dressed. The composition of costume with introduction of new clothes including Wio, Baedang, Seup, Pil, Kyongsang, for the ruling classes was diversified as well. As the result of looking the clothes for the present ruling classes via the existing and the contemporary relics, it was found that the clothes consisted of Eui and Gon or Eui and Sang style in principle and Po with Banryung or Sooryung was worn over what. However, for the common people, mainly man wore Eui and Gon and woman Eui and Sang, which was the traditional costume style in the ancient tomb days.