• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.48
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• pp.197-216
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• 1999

This study reflects the aim of analyzing the formality and symbolism of the Chanel suit. Chanel had designed jersey and tweed cardigan suits in the 1910s and 1920s while her suits of the 1930s were crisply fitted. The suits of the 1950s and 960s while were comfortable and slightly boxy marked a significant step forword. Lagerfeld's mission at Chanel was to tranmute the basic elements of the Chanel style and make them contemporary. He has also introduced the contemporay wide shoulders and short tihht skirt In place of sensible knee-length skirts he offered hemlines that either grazed the ankles or exposed most of the thighs. Besides her very influential jersey and tweed cardigan suit Chanel continued to assert her considerable strength with materials often making her suits in very delicate feminizing fabrics. in place of the classic boxy tweed jacket Lagerfeld introduced jackets made of terrycloth denim and stretch fabric Many of Chanel's suits show a stylish sense of colour that would have made artist envious. Chanel and Lagerfeld chose variety of colours from beige and grey and black to blue green cerisen and red for her suits. They was completely in tune with the twentieth century understanding the changes in lifestyles of woman and also understanding how her clothes should cater to them Thus the Chanel suit is more a way of life than just a fashion and is synonymous with wealth and aritocracy. It is one of the most popular status-symbol styles of the 20th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.45-56
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between Chanel design and her Costume jewelry in 1920's-1930's through documentary studies. According to the study the result was as follows: 1. Chanel's esthetic in the field of Fashion Design bore the double stamp of "elegance" and 'simplicity' 2. Chanel changed the concept of costume jewelry. Chanel's great innovation was that she let 'fake' jewels always keep the intrinsic value of 'real' ones. 3. The simplicity of her perfectly tailored suit was Paradoxically overwhelmed by a fan-tastic array of jewels. The relationhship be-tween Chanel design and her costume jewelry was not able to be seperated. Chanel was a fashion leader fifty years ago and the name "Chanel" will be at the forefornt of fashon fifty years from now. The image of quality will always remain the same in the futures.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.33
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• pp.41-54
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• 1997

The objectives of this study were to find out the relationships between clothing style pre-ferences and self-image and to examine the differences in clothing style preferences ac-cording to marital status educational level and social stratification of women. The drawings of clothing style were designed referring to the catalogues for spring/summer of 1996 and printed by computer 6 styles of suit corresponding to clothing image were selected. Style A is a brown suit decorated with scarf style B a grey suit with stripes C a yellow suit with printed pattern D a grey and beige suit E a chanel suit decorated with corsage and F a blue suit with pleated skirt. The self-image was separated to the actual self-image and the ideal self-image. Samples were 226 women(ages 18 to 37) in Seoul Korea. The results of the study were the followings. 1. Clothing images of 6 styles were estimated; Style A was plain conservative formal and gentle image ; B masculine solid actual dark and plain image; C feminine romantic bright and splendid image; D actual ordinary un-fashionable and plain image; E feminine ten-der romantic and non-active image ; F indi-vidual fshionable open casual sprightly and active image. 2. There were significant relationships be-tween clothing style preferences and realistic self-image. The women who considered them-selves as masculine preferred style B mascu-line and plain image. The women feminine and conservative preferred style E feminine and tender image. The women not to follow the fshion preferred style D ordinary and plain image. The women informal and open pre-ferred the style F casual and active image. 3. There were significant relationships be-tween clothing style preferences and ideal self-image. The women who wanted to be-tween clothing style preferences and ideal self-image. The women who wanted to be con-sidered themselves as feminine and conserva-tive preferred style E feminine and tender im-age. The women who wanted gentle and con-servative preferred style D ordinary and plain image. The women who wanted sprightly pre-ferred the style F casual and active image. 4. There were significant differences in clothing style preferences according to marital status educational level and social stratifi-cation. The women with more eduacation pre-ferred the splendid and the plain image at the same time. The upper class preferred feminine image and lower class casual and active image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.37-56
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• 1999

In clothing, a tendency of Bisexuality is in case of wearing clothing of the opposite sex, the mixing of modeling principle and characteristic of man and woman, the exclusion characteristic of sexuality that present sexlessness-the third sex. They-Designer Gabrielle Chanel, YSL, Giorgio Armani-give characteristic of man's fashion to women's fashion. However, the consciousness in design is different. Chanel apply principle of man's suit to woman's wear to express authority and power about gender image, hereby she express women liberation and equality of man and woman based on social ideology through fashion especially, she express women's sexual independency and self assurance to her clothing. YSL express liberal and bold women that pursuit reasonal and liberal life in 1970. As he apply tailoed suit's rigidity to women's wear, he made 'pants look' universal in women's wear through“Dress for success”in modern life. Armani apply successful modern image to women's wear, so he express women's image of confident intellegent as well as feminine image. He focus women's new image as man living liberal and indivisual life excluding social category rather than will of equality of man and women. Gernreich break sexual prejudice and release women freely, furthermore, as he express concern of sexuality pursuit liberty of mankind surpassing sex distinction with women liberty. Gianni Versace pursuit mix and extinguishment of sexual image many-sided, and break fixed idea of sex, and reprovide feminine and masculine image. So his design tend homosexuality because he regard women's glamor and ostensible sexuality as standard of beauty, he apply this to man's wear as well as women's wear. With this, he expresses sensitive and liberal man's that break characteristic of Gender that symbolize power and authority in man's wear through 'Without ties'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.3 s.43
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• pp.181-195
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• 1992

The purposes of this study were to investigate 1) the effect of body exposure and color of a woman's suit on the perception of modesty, and 2) the effect of perceiver's sex and age on impression formed by the function of clothing variables. The instrument of this study consisted of a response scale and stimuli. Thirteen items of 7-point semantic differential scales were developed to measure the perceiver's impression on wearer's modesty. Stimuli were color pictures of a model wearing one of 8 types of suit constructed by a 2 $\times$ 2 $\times$ 2 factorial design. The manipulation of each level of the clothing variables were: color of the suit by black and red, leg exposure by varying skirt lengths to a Chanel-line and mini skirt, and neck exposure by shirt collar blouse and scarf. Two models, representing typical female college students living in Seoul, were selected to eliminate model effect. The sample include 384 subjects, consisting of 4 groups of male and female college students and middle aged men and women. Eight experimental groups were randomly assigned to one of eight stimuli based on between-subject design. One half of each group responded to model 1 and the other half to model 2 of same stimulus. Responses to the semantic differential scales were factor analyzed (pc model, Varimax rotation) to identify factors constructing impression of modesty. Two factors emerged regard­less of subgroups; Elegance and Extroversion factor. The first factor was found to be dominant, accounting for 60 percent of the total variance. The other accounted for just 11 percent. Multidimensional ANOVA (5-way, 3-way) was conducted to test the effect of the clothing variables against two factors identified from the factor analysis. Leg exposure was the most powerful variable affecting the impression of Elegance and Extroversion factor for all per. ceiver subgroups. Neck exposure had primary effect on the impression of Elegance, whereas it partially influenced that of Extroversion. Color of suit had only partial effect on the impression of Extroversion. Hypothesis I was partially supported from the findings above. The effect of perceiver's age and sex on impression by the function of clothing variables was tested by comparing the result between four subgroups. In forming an impression of the wearer's modesty, male college students were least affected by the manipulation of clothing variables, while middle aged males were affected most. In the female groups, there was no age difference and they fell between the male groups in the degree to which they were affected. Hypothesis II was supported only by age difference in two male groups, and by sex difference in two student groups.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.531-542
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• 2009

This study examines the correlation between the characteristics of sustainable slow design, The outcome derived from the pro-environmental consciousness in fashion design, and the trends of modern fashion design. The conclusion of this study is as follows. First, slow design for sustainability shows an environmental consciousness and stresses the ethical aspects of fashion design that take into account the wellbeing and sustainable development of human society. It also focuses on the continuos present in which the consistent pace of life endures, rather than pursuing speedy changes of fashion by titillating desire. Second, the five characteristics of slow design have been extracted from the analysis of the examples of fashion industry and other fashion-related areas. They are sustainability, recyclibility, handicraft, naturalness, and simplicity. Third, these characteristics of slow design have much to do with modern fashion genres. For instance, classical style fashions such as Chanel suit and Burberry coat have the same qualities of sustainability, while at the same time the Vintage fashion, which reinterprets the fashions from bygone eras in modern style, has the tendency of recyclibility, and the Hippie style, a resurrection of hand-touch spirit that emerged as a secondhand style expressionism resisting uniform mass production, has not only the quality of handicraft but also recyclibility.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.413-426
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• 2020

This study researches the association between associative vocabulary and fashion image language in order to extract ideas that can be used as basic data for design ideas. Classic - avant-garde imaged language were chosen as theme words and each 70 questionnaires per a final image word were used for analysis. We obtained the following results by researching keywords that explained classic image words through a word cloud technique. It was found to have high central representation in the order of suit, classical, basic, music, Chanel, black and traditional. The core key words explaining avant-garde image language were found to have a central representation in the order of : peculiar, huge, Comme des Garçons, artistic, creative, deconstruction and individuality. We extracted the necessary idea dimensions needed for design ideas through associative network graph analysis. In the case of classical image language, it was named as the Mannish Item, Music, Modern Color, and the Traditional Classicality dimensions. In the case of avant-garde image language, it was named as the Key Image, Artistic Aura, Key Design and Designers dimensions.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.245-260
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• 2016

This study explored cases of 3D printing utilization in domestic and overseas fashion industries, and presented utilization strategies for fashion design departments in universities in future by grasping characteristics of newly appearing distribution types through 3D printing. Cases of producing costumes using 3D printing in fashion industry comprised a bikini using the material of Nylon12 that continuum fashion demonstrated, innovative 3D costumes by Iris Van Herpen, Tweed Suit using the material that Chanel manufactured with 3D printing technology, but they were limited to experimental fashion works due to limitations of 3D printer material and printing size. On the other hand, in fashion accessories, with jewelry and shoes at the head of the list, MCM and Kipling also demonstrated bags using this technology, and Elvis Pompilio and Gabriela Ligenza demonstrated 3D printing hat products as well. Except the above, as in glasses and neckties utilizing 3D printing, owing to reduced limitations of time, size and material, 3D printing was found to be utilized in fashion accessories other than costumes. Recently there has been a new consumption and distribution structure coming up focusing on 3D printing technology. That is, in overseas countries, content platforms sharing products modeled by oneself has rapidly appeared, and in our country as well, funnypoly, a 3D content platform appeared in 2015. The appearance of these new types of distribution structures means that the common people can produce design contents, and we believe that it may bring about a change in the traditional way of distribution structure. To walk in step with this change, it is believed that it is necessary for fashion design departments to raise college faculty members who can educate 3D printing, develop curriculum to educate 3D printing, and develop experiential programs connected with middle and high schools.