• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제27권5호
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• pp.485-495
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• 2003

This study was to compare and analyze the clothing pressure according to arms movements of 4 brands jacket for middle-aged women group by measuring clothing pressure of each brand. The results were as follows: 1. According to the analysis of jackets of 4 brands, in general, jacket C had the largest ease amount. while jacket A had a large ease amount in waist, hip areas compared with bust area. Also jacket B had a small ease amount in bust, waist areas and jacket D had a small ease amount in hip areas. Therefore the ease amount is different between each brand, each size even though jacket designs are similar. 2. It was found that clothing pressure was affected by arm movements than jackets. Since this study was limited to the arm movement for motion variation, it was recognized that a significant difference among each jacket and each movement at shoulder, waist parts existed with relation to this motion. 3. Parts showing a significant difference among each size were bust point, abdomen point, center back point of abdomen level, angulus superior scapulae point and center back point of waist level. Also clothing pressure of size B91 was bigger than size B88 except Center back point of waist level. 4. Clothing pressure in shoulder point, front armpit point, back armpit point, upper arm point areas increased as the angle of the arms movement increased. Also, individual variation of clothing pressure in front armpit point, back armpit point, armpit point and upper arm point was large, and clothing pressure in abdomen point was high in M5(sitting posture).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.44-56
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• 2007

The aim of this study is to provide fundamental data on the development of dress shirts pattern appropriate for the body types of athletes. The research subjects are 257 athletes from wrestling, bodybuilding, weight lifting, Judo, canoe, rowing. In regards to the category used in the measurement of bust somatotype, there are 48 types directly measured, 4 types indirectly measured, 7 types calculated and 1 bodyweight of type, making it 60 categories in total. The bust somatotype of a sports athlete and general person were compared together and after examining the characteristics of the bust somatotype, the somatotype of sports athlete was divided according to drop. The results of the study are as follows: 1. Questionnaire Results of the questionnaire showed that 63.4% of the respondents chose dress shirt as the most uncomfortable upper garment for athletes. And as for the result of the most uncomfortable body part turned out to be 'the neck is tight'. 2. Somatotype Analysis Results of direct, indirect measurement and the average somatotype of 97 National standard physique were compared. The characteristics of somatotype of athletes with well-developed upper body are that they are taller and have longer upper body and arms than the general person. And also the width of the trunk is wider, the girth bigger and the waist measure relatively slimmer. Looking at sports by category, it we could see that wrestlers were the largest neck parameter and width. Bodybuilders were the largest body parts for most categories. Weight lifting and Judo athletes were the largest waist and buttock. Canoe and rowing athletes were the largest height and arm parts. Dividing the somatotype of athletes according to drop, 72.8% of the research group belonged to the body type that resembled the letter Y.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.31-53
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• 2008

This study is to suggest a brassiere pattern suitable to the Chinese woman by recognizing the differences among the brassiere patterns of Europe, America and Italy by comparison. Collected data was analyzed by using SPSS 12.0. 1. If seeing the length of the ordinary brassiere's wing in Korea, the mean is 31.02cm to be shorter than these 3 patterns. The length of a wing should be adjusted according to the degree of fabric's elasticity. 2. The ESMOD type shows a high angle of $60^{\circ}$ as the position of a shoulder strip is placed outward a lot compared with other patterns. 3. For the FIT and Marangoni types, the lengths of the inside and the external diameters show similarly to each other but the ESMOD type shows that its inside diameter is 7.5cm and external one is 9.6cm to have the difference of 2.1cm so that it is considered to put the bust together stronger than the others. 4. The cup circumference of the FIT pattern shows to be the biggest and that of the FIT pattern is the smallest. As the FIT pattern has the shape to wrap the side of the bust, it has large circumference but as it has a narrow angle of a dart, it seems to be fit to the woman with a small and flat bust. 5. For 1/2 of the nipple distance of the brassiere for the Korean adult women, it shows to be 6.12cm, much narrower than the patterns studied, and it is noticed that the ESMOD pattern is very similar to the brassier in the Korean market. 6. As the mean keeper height is 6.5cm, it is noticed that it is very similar to the brassier for the Korean adult women if comparing that the brassiere for the Korean adult has the keeper height of 6.5-8.6cm. The Marangoni pattern tends to have a little low and the ESMOD and FIT patterns have a ordinary measure.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.63-81
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• 2013

A Study using compare and analyze about differences among three patterns(shape and size of pattern, fitting and amount of air gap and so on) through 3D simulation. This study use 3D simulation program, DC Suite version 3.0. The results are as a follows: The results of estimation about total appearance, the pattern of Bunka is best of all pattern about total fitting and silhouette of front and back side. The pattern of armstrong and on&on stand low in estimation. As the total fitting, the pattern of Bunka is 4.40, the pattern of Armstrong is 2.60 and the pattern of On&on is 1.60. The result show better pattern of Bunka than pattern of Armstrong and On&on. When we examine about space between body and cloth, the pattern of Bunka is best. The pattern of Armstrong don't have problems about back side but front side have some problem of getting loose. Because it only have a waist dart so dart size is too big. The pattern of On&on have so much space because it don't have a waist dart. On the amount of air gap, the pattern of Bunka squash up body so it have the amount of air gap 0.08 at bust circumference and underbust circumference. Next is the pattern of Armstrong, amount of air gap is 0.14 at bust circumference and 0.23 at underbust circumference. The pattern of On&on's amount of air gap is 0.30 at bust circumference and 0.37 at underbust circumference. So the pattern of Bunka is bodice block of the best closing adhesion and the On&on is a loose-fitting pattern.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제31권5호
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• pp.586-606
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• 2023

This study initiated research aligned with the body positivity movement, aiming to explore size diversity for groups facing relative size discrimination due to their deviation from average body types. Using KS adult women's apparel dimensions as a reference, jackets were developed for women in their 20s to 30s who belong to the small petite-size (S[P]) category, which is characterized by a height under 155cm (petite) and a bust-circumference from 72cm to less than 82cm (small). Using 3D virtual-fitting, we conducted experiment-pattern production and refinement and subsequent real-fitting evaluations by participants to objectively validate aesthetics and comfort. The study's findings are as follows: First, utilizing a 3D virtual-fitting program by identifying 'creases' and 'garment pressure points' in the jacket appearance, experiment patterns were refined and real jackets were produced. This approach addressed challenges in recruiting participants with specific body types and allowed for efficient research in terms of cost and time. Second, through real-fitting evaluations, basic-fit and slim-fit jackets labeled as <79-88-150> were developed for the S(P) size. we presented 'size spec' and 'ease allowance' for jackets by waist fit. Both fits received positive evaluations with approximately 53.5cm sleeve length, and 11.7cm shoulder length. The ease allowances for the basic-fit jacket were approximately 9.2cm at the bust circumference, 12.8cm at the waist circumference, and 6cm at the hip circumference. Similarly, the slim-fit jacket exhibited ease allowances of about 4.8cm at the bust circumference, 4cm at the waist circumference, and 4cm at the hip circumference, receiving positive evaluations for aesthetics and comfort.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.379-390
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fitness according to drafting method of the block patterns for women in Korea. The major findings of this study are as follows: 1. According to comparative analysis of required measurements, two measurements of back length and bust girth are used in Proportional Drafting Method (Munhwa). In case of Compromise Drafting Methods are used across chest, across back, bust length, bust width, full length in front, across shoulder and shoulder length in addition to back length and bust girth. The type of Armstrong as a Short Measure Drafting Method uses 10 measurements for the drafting the bodice. 2. While Esmod block pattern arid Armstrong's block pattern are the lightest in full width and other widths. Rasara block pattern is the most ample. In Lee, Myung-hee's block pattern and Lee, Hyung-sook's block pattern, amounts of drooping are decided $3{\sim}4cm$, but drooping amounts of other block patterns are decided corresponding to real measurements. While cap height in Esmod and Armstrong's sleeve patterns are directly measured Armhole length of the block pattern, cap height of other sleeve patterns are used armhole depth and cap height length as well as armhole length. 3. When analyzing to indirect measurements, Esmod block pattern shows the least different between full length of block pattern and that of body form. Munhwa block pattern and Kim, Hyosook's block pattern are mostly same to body form back length. However all of the block patterns are sheller than body form length. In case of Suh, Wansuk's block pattern, across back and across chest are same size, but other block patterns show difference between across back and across chest. Most block patterns' neck width in front and bach bodice are almost same. Front neck width is generally bigger than back neck width in some cases.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제34권6호
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• pp.982-996
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• 2010

This study classified the body shapes of Korean obese women and investigated the differences of each body shape, using 2004 Size Korea data. For selecting the obesity sample, 7 obesity judgment indices were chosen through previous clothing-related studies. A total of 636 females defined as "obese" by 5 out of 7 indices were selected as subjects and 54 body measurements and obesity judgment indices were used in this study. Firstly, mean, standard deviation, minimum, and maximum values of each measurement and item were obtained from the descriptive analysis of 53 measurements. According to the descriptive analysis, all measurements and obesity judgment indices of the subjects demonstrated a serious obesity level shown by BMI 27.11, R$\ddot{o}$hrer index 1.76, Vervaeck index 104.77, Relative weight 133.00, WHR 0.90, and waist circumference 86.71cm. In addition, the measurements and indices showed considerable differences between minimum and maximum values. Significant differences were identified in all measurements and items at a significant level, p=.001. Each distribution of body types according to age, stature, bust, and waist circumference groups was provided in this study. Secondly, factor analyses were conducted using 38 measurement items to extract the body characteristics of obese women. Factor 1 was "circumference measurements & obesity judgment indices," Factor 2 was "heights & arm-related lengths," and Factor 3 was "size and ratio of waist circumference & hip circumference." Factor 4 was "lengths in upper body," Factor 5 was "back width in upper body," Factor 6 was "side neck point to bust & bust circumference," Factor 7 was "length in lower body & arm circumferences" and Factor 8 was "neck base circumference & front width in upper body." These 8 factors explained 76.54% of the total variance. Finally, 5 body types were selected in the cluster analysis. Type 1 (with big back widths & arm circumferences) was 15.5% of the entire subjects, Type 2 (the shortest and fattest, with big upper body) was 18.8%, Type 3 (with big breast) was 27.8%, Type 4 (the tallest and longest in arm lengths, with the smallest arm circumferences and lengths in torso) was 22.5%, and Type 5 (with big hips compared to waist circumferences, smaller height and upper body) was 15.5%. Fundamental differences were identified in all measurements and items at the significant level of p=.001. In addition, each distribution of body type according to age, height, bust, and waist circumference groups was provided in this study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.91-100
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• 1994

The purpose of the study is to investigate the actual conditions of ready-to-wear Hanbok and is to establish the standard sizes for the women's ready-to-wear Hanbok. Twelve ready-to-wear Hanbok shops were investigated for the actual survey. Body measurements were taken from May to June, 1990 from 329 female college students living in the Seoul and Buchon. The ages of the subjects were 18"26. Thirty seven measurements were taken from each subject and analized for the results. Data were analized by factor analysis, and regression analysis. The results were as follows ; 1. As a result of the actual survey, the situation of the quality label was not enough. The size classification was not unified, and was not trusted statistically, it cannot satisfied consumers. 2. Factor analysis identified the two dimensions of body measurements 1 one was relevant to the height measurements including stature and to the length measurements of limbs, and the other was relevant to the trunk girth measurements and the limbs girth measurements. 3. because of plane construction of Hanbok, employed in this thesis was bl-dimensional sizing system using two controle dimensions including height factor(stature) and girth factor(bust girth) . 4. The Multiple regression formula was developed for estimating secondary dimensions of Hanbok Construction, in which stature and bust girth were posited as independent variables. 5. As a results, about 88.6371 of expected distribution were covered by 9 sizes, which were used as the basis for defining sizing system for Hanbok construction.tion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.529-534
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• 2012

An analysis of adult women's somatotypes classified by drop values can provide important preliminary data in determining standard clothing sizes for mass production of ready-made clothes. This is because the values are based on measurements of girth, which is essential information in the size-setting process. Adult women's body types are classified according to drop values in a standard clothing size system adopted by Korea and several other countries. This study aims to identify somatotype characteristics of adult women aged 20 to 69 by using five types of drop values: bust-waist, hip-waist, hip-bust, abdomen-waist, and hip-abdomen. Statistical cluster analysis of collected data revealed four somatotypes among adult women. Type R, with a developed lower body, accounted for 36.6%, and its bodyline was found to be closest to the average adult woman. Type X, constituting 25.4%, had the curviest contours of all and relatively large hip measurements, with the thinnest figure. Flat abdomen and hips characterized type Y, which accounted for 18.9%. Lastly, 19.0% fell into type H, the most obese figure, in which abdomen girth exceeded hip measurements. Since type H has excess fat deposits in the abdomen, not only hip measurements but also abdomen girth should be considered when designing top longer than torso-length and bottoms.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.299-311
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• 2014

Objective: The aim of this study was to develop a method for measuring breast size from three-dimensional (3D) body scan image data. Background: Previous bra studies established reference points by directly contacting the subject's naked skin to determine the boundary of the breast. But some subjects were uncomfortable with these types of measurements. This study examined noncontact methods of extracting breast reference points from 3D body scan data that were collected while subjects were wearing standardized soft bras. Method: 3D body scan data of 32 Korean women were analyzed. The subjects were selected from the Size Korea 2010 study. The breast landmarks were identified by graphic analyses of slicing contour lines on 3D body scan data. Results: Three methods determining bra cup size were compared. The M1 and M2 methods determined cup size by calculating the difference between bust girth and under-bust girth. The M3 method determined bra cup size by measuring breast arc length. Conclusion: The researchers proposed an anthropometric bra cup sizing system with the breast arc length (M3 method). It was measured from the geometrically defined landmarks on the 3D body scan slicing contour lines. The new bra cup size was highly correlated with breast depth. Application: The noncontact measuring method used in this study can be applied to the ergonomic studies measuring sensitive body parts.