• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.28-44
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to analyze the hat fashion worn by the British royal family. The research range has been limited to hats which Elizabeth II, Camilla Parker Bowles, and Kate Middleton wore from April 29, 2011 to April 11, 2014 when Kate Middleton married Windsor Prince William and became part of the royal family. The methods of the research were: previous studies and literature about the royal family were referred to, the function and types of hats were considered, and then the plasticity of the designs seen in hat fashion of the royal family were analyzed. The results are as follows: first, the shape of the hats of the British royal family: Three-dimensional shapes(84.2%) were the most frequent, the detailed shape of the hat Canotier(33.5%), Boater(12.7%) and Bowler(10.3%) had greater frequency. Second, the color of the hats were W(13.7%), Bk(10.5%), Y(9.8%), B(9.6%), YR/PB(9.4%) and RP(9.2%) color. The Color Combination is the Monochrome Color(62.3%), Analogous Color(16.1%), Accent Color(13.2%) and Complementary Color(8.4%) were most frequent. Third, the material of the hats were Felt(44.5%) and Straw(40.3%) were used most frequently. Finally, the decoration of hats were: Flowers(25.7%), String(25.0%), Ribbon(18.4%) and Feathers(17.9%) were the most common. This study can be utilized as basic data for effective styling and design ideas in the field of total fashion.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.08a
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• pp.23-25
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• 2001

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.61-72
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• 2002

This paper is the second part of a series of the research about the Teddy boy style which is to examine various fashion changes in subcultural styles in 1900s. The main concern of this research is to investigate the creation and meaning of the Teddy boy style, how it interacted with the elements of class and generation and how the materials needed by the group constructed and appropriated into the visible systematic cultural form of correspondence. The Teddy Boys are the first recognized members of the British youth culture, which is known as the new Edwardian because of their dress. They had created the concept of the "teenagers," which forms the basis of the sense of a "generation" in the 20th century. The Teds set the style that would be used and modified in the following generations. They adopted the Edwardian style of the upper class, and changed it into their own style by modifying it and adding to it some other elements. The Teddy boys style is a special version of the sartorial appropriation encountered in the sphere of the fashion history. It actually began immediately after the war by the upper class youth far from the working class neighborhood. In the late 1953, the elitist aura surrounding the Edwardian suit was suddenly shattered. Within just a few months, the Edwardian suit became a source of social anxiety and the focus of a symbolic battle. Although the Edwardian look had initially went back to the upper class root, it became a symbol of rootlessness. In appropriation of this image, The Teddy boys were also rejecting the sartorial conformism of the English working class with its modest tradition. In this respect, the Teds effected the ascent or fall of the working class in the area of fashion. The Teds dress was not a merely borrowed fashion, but was a bastard fashion in the form of American trends, the Zoot suit. At this time members of the working class possessed only work dress for the week and waist suits for the Sunday outings. Teds broke this pattern, and developed the working class dandyism of wearing clothes simply to show off. The results were that they succeeded in opening the teen market, and popularizing a working class style for the first time in British history. The Teds became the first British street style with ties music, and remain as an symbol of the rising of a new age of values and styles.f values and styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.49-66
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• 2007

Trench coat derived from military uniforms was one of the classical fashion items and has been endeared as everyday outfits thanks to useful traits. Since 1990s classical design of trench coat began to be modified and many variant styles were appeared after 2000s. Trench coat designs after 2000s were appeared as tradition type that was stick to basic British classic style, variation type that was changed in details, colors, materials, and silhouettes, evolution type that was changed into new items, deconstruction type that was dissolved and open-structured. Modern trench coat expressed modern chic, elegance feminine, stylish casual, military and gangster images. The characteristics of trench coat as classic fashion were utility for everyday life style, excellent ability to express images, and strong visual effects of characteristic details. Trench coat was timeless as classic fashion, at the same time, changed into new fashion styles suitable for the sense of the times.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.19-29
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is for consideration of John Galliano's fashion design works. Galliano, young British designer, became the chief designer of Givenchy in 1995 and of Christian Dior in 1996. Through fashion information from WWD, High Fashion, Mode et Mode, Collezioni, Vogue, Internet sites and video tapes from 1995 to 1999, his works were concerned for this study. The results are as followed; First, we can find dynamics in Galliano's works. The dynamic mood came from his study about historic costume. Second, new beauty from dismantling and reconstruction was expressed on his designs. Third, his experimental creativities were based on fashion business. Therefore Galliano's eccentricity signify the Maximalism against the Minimalism which dominated the end of 20th century. So we can find a clue to new millenium in fashion world in his designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.51-63
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to review the symbolic meaning in 20th century men’s fashion through analyzing of social environment factors. After recent industrial society, men had expressed their privilege, prestige and social power according to fashion. Men's fashion at the beginning of the 20th century was emerged as the images of robustness and strictness with perfect cutting, thick and stick fabric and dark color that were influenced by british style. It was symbolic meaning of authority orientation which showed the superiorities of social and sex classes. It was beginning of change according to social phenomena. The world war Ⅰ,Ⅱ and change of lifestyle by material affluence in automobile industry mollified rules of men's fashion. It showed a serenity of living. Also, the growth of young culture changed trickle-down of men's fashion into bottom-up and showed opposition for elite culture in fashion. These change particularly became acceleration by Individualism, open-society and the collapse of sex class. Men expressed sexual and inherent desire for fashion that was no longer concerned with symbolizing of authority but rather with pleasure pursuit.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.171-184
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• 2011

This paper is purposed to clarify that an increase of the matter of concern about men's fashion in the mid-1980s was coincided with rapid change of images for men and diversification within the context of economy, society, culture and to analyze the characteristic of each fashion and the meaning. Findings are as follows: 'New men' played a key role creating and communicating the new male image through the media, as a new masculine appeared in the middle of 1980s. Especially it was spreaded into with British as a center between the generations of young men described as a white-collar worker about the ages from 18 to 35 specifically and appeared by the cultural background in accordance with the spread of consumerism, materialism and post modern feminism and the development of men's fashion. There were 2 types of fashion styles for 'New men' image on the media in the mid-1980s. The First is 'power suit look style' which is self-conscious, including 'corporate formal suit look' and 'soft & sexy suit look'. The Second is 'extravagant body conscious style' which characterize the decolletage and androgynous, including 'tough sports look' and 'sexy skirt look'. Lastly, the 'New men' image means a man as a visible object and a man in the image world.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.46-54
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• 2004

In this paper, It is examined the patterns of fashion style in the history of subcultural clothing from 1930s to 1960s, focusing on the way each generation resisted the main stream through its styles. The subcultural styles examined and classified in this study are mainly British and American, with a few European and Western Indian styles included. This study understands subcultural style as a way of deviate or resistant expression within a society. The patterns of subcultural styles presented in this study are based on their form of resistance, and they are classified as follows: The pattern is revision, which tries to revise and change the given form by adding new elements. There are two kinds of revision, one is dressing up, which dresses for success, and the other is minimal dressing. Zoot, caribbean, western, teddy boy, rockabilly style are included here. As minimal dressing, there are hipster, beatnik, modernist, mod, rude boy style. In conclusion, it can be said that subcultural style puts the foremost importance on individual freedom. The new and significant development can be found in the fact that subcultural style emerges as a dominating force in our culture. This implies that the energy of a subculture is essential as a formative force of a fashion world.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.81-96
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• 2006

This study aimed to investigate the sociocultural phenomena which affected to clothing change in 1650-1900 and to examine the features of men's necktie in the western art. For this study, information about historic neckwear is obtained from the visual evidence of painted or engraved portraits, contemporary written sources. The covered area of this study was Europe mainly England and France. For this process, research steps were as follows : 1. Investigating the sociocultural phenomena which affect to clothing change through 1650-1900 and analysis of men's clothing and appearance. 2. Finding the changing characteristics of neckties including it's different types, shapes, knots, colors and materials and analyzing similarities and differences of neckties by the times. 3. Examining necktie as one of important and representative icons of male gender identity. The results of the study was as follows: 1. In 1660-1900, men's fashion was simplified in color and detail due to the influence of practical Puritanism and matured civil culture. And British men's fashion spreaded throughout whole European countries and get popularity. 2. In 1650-1720, there were band, cravat and steinkirk. And expecially cravatier, a expert custodian of cravats, was appeared in that period. In 1720-1800, there were stock, solitaire and cravat. In 1800-1850, neckwear were popularized and got various sizes and types up to shape and size of chemise collars. Black stock, scarf cravat and shawl cravat were popular and terms of 'necktie' were used for an certain neckcloth shape. And abundant literature for necktie were published thanks to the development of printing technology in that period. In 1851-1900, the leady-made neckties were spreaded and there were changes in shape, length, knot of necktie up to V-zone formed with shirt's collars and vest types. Neckwear was gradually evolving through four distinct styles, bow tie, scarf or neckerchief, Ascot and four-in-hand. 3. After the mid-l7th Century, as civil culture matured and splendid and extravagant colorful men's wear disappeared, British men's fashion spreaded throughout whole European countries and got popularity. The necktie become an essential ornamental accessory of men's fashion and one of important and representative icons of male gender identity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.1-13
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to discuss the modern fashion design that incorporates national flags, by each country, methods of their expressions and distinct characteristics. Moreover, it intends to contribute in creating the image of Korea and our own unique fashion identity through creative designs that coincides with the modern trend by adopting Taegeukgi. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: The American flag and the British Union Jack were molt widely used and even though it was less frequent, flags of the France, Korea, Israel, Germany as well as Argentina have been featured in modern fashion. The expression methods also varied and it demonstrated the unlimited options as to how a flag can be presented. Some used the traditional flag as is. Some only used a portion of a flag or its colors as a motive or sometimes the flags were completely redesigned. There are distinctive characteristics when flags are incorporated into fashion. First, the shapes or colors of the flags were used to emphasize the image of a country in rather simple silhouette without many details. Second, through altered shapes, shades, colors or rearrangement, the country's image is presented in more subtle, indirect manner. Third, a flag is a mere element of a formation with various changes to its shape or color, and it no longer holds the traditional significance of a flag. It may also represent the playful or ironic image by combining with other items or execution techniques.