• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.15-26
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to offer basic data for designing and making of brassiere with the consideration of the physiological nature of man. Each of 3/4-cup wired upward-support-type Mold Bra of 75 size with basic pad made at three representative domestic companies (A, B and C Company) was selected for analysis of pattern and components. The following is the result of this study. 1. That Company A's bra had the highest cup, relatively narrow width, the widest front-center and the highest front center at front pad. That of Company B had relatively short wing over the base and much difference at the height of cup depending on the presence of wire. That of Company C had low and wide cup, the widest bust span and the front center width, the front center height of front pad, the base length of front pad and the length of wings were observed to be of the figures between those of Company A and B. 2. The Bra of Company A had the biggest front center angle of $6^{\circ}$, while that of Company C had the biggest wing angle of $18^{\circ}$. The Bra of Company B showed the biggest difference of patterns depending on the presence of wire. Those of Company A and C showed very similar shape when wire was inserted. 3. The order of making brassiere is following: making of exterior mold cup${\rightarrow}$ sewing exterior cup and circumference of mold${\rightarrow}$ sewing base and wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to base${\rightarrow}$ sewing cup and main pad${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to upper sides and upper part of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing wire-tape to interior base of cup${\rightarrow}$ inserting of wire inside wire-tape${\rightarrow}$ sewing hook & eye on the back of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing shoulder string.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.81-92
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop the applied brassiere pattern of women which are fitting for 75A. The constructing of this experimental brassiere were lower cup, upper cup, front panel and U-wing as well as a full cup embcing the entire breasts. Basing on the bra model from domestic experiment results, development of an applied design, round side type pattern, has been suggested. Thus, suggesting the round variation design bra, which is an applied design based on the basic model based on the breast volume. Based on the sizes that are in reference to Size Korea (2004) and related previous researches, the basic model that has been experimented with 11.4% polyurethane and 88.6% Nylon as the materials, has been selected as the model of research. This takes 75A, the size of which is set according to the underbust circumference and the breasts circumference, as the basic model. It is an application in terms of design, and there is no change to the cup volume or size because it has been moved only from the cutting line. The applied design changes the right side of the lower cup into an easily-movable form and attaches it to the upper cup, and the lower cup takes the right part of the upper cup to form a cup shape of round variation design. It also changes basic straight form of the wings, and alters them into U-shape.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.196-202
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• 2006

In this study the swimwear pattern focused on a typical middle-aged women's body was developed and discussed. To determine the characteristics of a typical middle-aged women's body, their actual bust were cast. According to a generated flattened body surface shell, the right side of pattern was designed considering stretching ratio of swimwear materials as shown in the figure 3. Special features of the developed swimwear pattern are a bust dart, a particularly designed lining, a power-net, and a brassiere-cup. Against a commercial swimwear pattern, the darts were applied to bust area considering its volume. The lining was attached on the entire right side except brassiere part, and power-net was added twice on belly and hip part. As a result, silhouette and body shape were improved. The new brassiere-cup was designed and made to satisfy the middle-aged women's demand about their bust volume. Swimwear fitting test was performed, and it was evaluated. The developed swimwear rated activity, body support, entire silhouette, pressure, comfortable fitting, suitability with body figure, nudity higher by comparison with a commercial swimwear, as shown in the Table 6. Specially the developed swimwear satisfied future customers about a bust, a hip, a waist, a belly area, which the middle-aged women are not confident. Reducing exposure of an armhole and upper leg area, it also satisfied them. New developed swimwear pattern will provide useful reference to swimwear businesses targeting middle-aged women.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.646-660
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• 2017

This study provides basic data to develop a brassiere pattern that can cover the big breast of breast enlargement patients. In this study, we also showed areas of the brassiere cup pattern and the body surface of the breast on a breast enlargement patient. The results of the study are as follows. Correlation analysis was obtained between volume and body surface area and breast detail dimensions. After the correction process, we proposed a research bra pattern for breast augmentation patients. The cup-boundary in bra patterns of breast enlargement surgery patients is longer than the bra patterns of the general breast; therefore, the height of the inner and outer edges of the upper cups is higher. Also, it is necessary to set the new breast upper point when measuring the upper length in patients with breast augmentation surgery because the points of circumference of the breast are marked higher than chest circumference.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.429-439
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• 2015

This study develops a new brassiere for new silver women. A new brassiere design was developed for the silver generation based on apreliminary survey; subsequently, a wire and no-wire type of brassier were developed after a second fitting evaluation. The results were as follows. First, in terms of brassiere design, the cup shape was designed as mold type full cup, shoulder straps were designed as camisole type with cups, bias tape was designed for body correction in the side line and mash tape was designed for easy movement below the cups. On the other side ofthe cup shape was a pocketdesigned on a support pad forthe wire type and a support panel to serve as a wire in the no-wire type brassiere. Second, brassiere patterns were designed by referencing the educational H pattern. Thetotal length was elongated by 5cmto reduce pressure when wearing a brassiere and the height of the front center increased by 8cm for the stability of the front center of the brassiere. In addition, the side line was moved back by 3cm and the width of the brassiere wings was designed widely at 10.5cm. Third, a wearing test was conducted for the wire type and the no-wire type brassiere with comparison products, using a 7-point Likert scale. Appearance results and movement tests for the wire and no-wire type showed a higher score than comparison products.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.562-577
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• 2003

The object of my research is to inquiry into the immediate constituent and techniques of underwear after looking into basic theory of underwear, techniques by materials classified according to the matter of elasticity, and studying flat pattern and draping which are basis of corset and brassiere structure focusing on corsetry among underwears and production techniques. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. To make the flat pattern of corset and brassiere fit to the body tightly, design dart two times without any space and draw smaller than the body. To support the breast sufficiently, move the side seam 1¼″ to the front panel and the seam should pass the apex in all occasions. For draping, dart should be added into short of elasticity materials in the past but dart is no use these days since the material today is extremely elastic. It is possible now to show the body line with only the seam or a pattern. In a case of elastic material, set the elastic direction to the grain line and have a draping as pulling from the center to the out side. As production technic, for an hem, put a zigzag stitch in elastic materials with a 10-20% short elastic band, pulling the band. Then make 3/16″-1/4″ short inseam.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.635-644
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• 2014

This study provides basic reference data for brassiere wearing conditions, design preferences of new silver women (50s-60s) and development of brassiere products. We compiled and compared 163 pieces of brassiere (considering of 105 domestic general brassieres and 58 foreign silver brassieres) analyzed using SPSS Statistics 21 program. A survey was then conducted on the actual wearing, purchasing conditions, design preferences for 176 females (50s-60s). The result of this study are as follows: First, comparing actual product conditions (domestic general products and foreign silver products), the ratio of full cup in cup height, V-shape type in neckline shape, long type in front-end length, wide type in wing width, U-shape type in shoulder strap form, wide type in shoulder strap width, no-wire brassieres in breast wire type, all-in-one type in shoulder strap separation, back type in closure type appeared higher than other types of brassiere in domestic general product. Second, a study also showed that 60s women's wearing time is lower than 50s women's; however, 60s women expressed a higher figure and preference for the purchasing ratio in the department store, full cup in cup height, short type in length of brassieres, wide type in wing width, U-shape in shoulder strap form, small type in shoulder strap width, back type in closure type and no-wire brassieres than those in their 50s. It was found they prefer fabric with a high natural content, nude tone color without decoration & pattern and camisole brassieres.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.673-685
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• 2010

This study evaluates the fitness of brassieres through size measurement, comparative pattern analysis, cross section map analysis, 3-D shape analysis number, and fitness evaluation with a focus on domestic and overseas brands. Experimental brassieres were selected as mold brassieres of 3/4 cup in 75A size that is considered a popular design. Brands of selected brassiere were 2 domestic brands (A, B), 1 licensed brand (C), and 2 overseas brands (D, E). Subjects were 8 women in their early 20's. Data were analyzed by descriptive statistics, analysis of variance, reliability analysis, and factor analysis. The results were as follows; the size and pattern of brassieres showed a difference by each brand even though brassieres are the same design. In the wearing effect of brassieres, overseas brand brassieres played a major role in the breast-up effect, but they were not appropriate for the somatotype of Korean women. Domestic brand brassieres showed the volume-up effect, that was confirmed by the increasing bust circumference, bust depth when subjects wore it. In addition, the licensed brand brassieres showed the correction effect of body shape. Therefore, when purchasing a brassiere, the most important condition is to consider the individual characteristics of the somatotype. The results of factor analysis through a functional evaluation show that wearing satisfaction, size satisfaction, and the position of the bust point were important factors for fitness satisfaction and purchase.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.502-517
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• 2008

The purpose of the study lies in the measurements of breast shapes and upper body types for the women in their 40's, with the use of 3D measurement system, and in the presentation of brassiere patterns fit for their body types. As for the study method, 3D human body types were analyzed with RapidForm 2006, and the upper-body types and breast shapes were statistically classified through technical statistics analysis, cluster analysis, t-test, variance analysis, and cross analysis. The wearing tests went through the comparison of the brassieres of three makers in the market and the experiment brassieres(first and second) and then the evaluations were made by the subjects, the outer appearance assessment by experts, and 3D measurements. The findings of the study indicated that the evaluation of experiment brassieres was excellent in every item, and he significant difference was found out particularly in the items of pressure, rear center, front center, breast underneath, adequate level by wing, and adequate level by armhole. According to the results of 3D evaluation, experiment brassieres had a highest point in fitness with no physical pressure at the wing part and no overall deviation at the cup art. The pattern comparison showed the differences in the parts of total cup angle, cup circumference length, lower cup height, wing length, and wing angle.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.69-79
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to compare fitting of the upper garment by brassiere cup size and types of bodice block. This study conducted a 3D virtual garment system by applying three types of bodice block (I, II, III) and experimental pattern of the bodice block to 3D avatars of four individuals with the following measurements: under bust circumference of 73.5 cm and bust circumferences of 83.5 cm, 86.0 cm, 88.5 cm, and 91.0cm. The results of the study were as follows. First, for 83.5 cm bust circumference (A Cup), appearance of the three types of bodice block (I, II, III) was appropriate. However, as bust circumference increased in size, shape became inappropriate. The depth and width of the armhole, within 15 cm and 11 cm, respectively, were found to be appropriate. In case of 91.0 cm bust circumference (D Cup), all three bodices (I, II, III) were inappropriate. Second, the results of the draft of the experimental patterns of the bodice block of bust circumference measuring 83.5 cm, 86.0 cm, 88.5 cm, and 91.0 cm in the 3D avatars of the four individuals revealed similarities in the frontal view of the silhouette in the four avatars; in the case of the lateral view of the silhouette, lateral width grew wider as bust circumference of the silhouette became larger, but the shape of armhole showed no changes. The depth of the armhole showed little changes from 15.1 cm to 15.22 cm, and the height of sleeve (armscye depth 13.6 cm within +2 cm) remained similar. The difference in width of the armhole from 11.26 cm to 11.37 cm was rather small. The width of the upper sleeve (8.97 cm) seemed to be appropriate as it remained within the 2-3 cm boundary.