• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.26 no.4
• /
• pp.563-582
• /
• 2018

In ancient times, hairstyle varies according to tribes. Because it is a social product that depends on status, class, and gender within the tribes, research on the hairstyle is an important source for studying the culture of the tribes. The purpose of this study is to analyze hairstyle of the Scythians and to understand the culture of the Scythians. Furthermore, the purpose is to identify the ethnic group based on this research. And it is intended to use the results as a comprehensive resource for research on the origins of Korean ancient costumes. As a research method, literature study and artifact analysis were performed concurrently. Data for artifact analysis were taken directly from the Eremitage Museum in St. Petersburg, Russia, where the researcher visited for this study. The conclusions of this study are as follows: Hairstyle of the Scythians were classified into three types: straight hair, braided hair, and tied hair depending on social status, age, and region. Straight hair was usually seen with kings, royalty, and warriors, and the hair length varied according to their status. Braid hair appears by a depiction of an old man and young Scythians. Tied hair was observed in the warrior. The beard was divided into chin-beard and mustache. Long chin-beards and mustaches were mostly observed in the ruling classes, while medium length chin-beards and short mustaches were considered the most common form of beard because they appeared in most classes. The young Scythians, regardless of their status, had no beard.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.13 no.5
• /
• pp.672-678
• /
• 2011

This was written based on the type and structure of korean man's waist belt in the early and middle era of the Chosun era. The waist belt was excavated from the Mokdaldong in the Daejeon city. The types of korean man's waist belt in the Chosun era were classified into Wondahae (i.e., round shape belt) and Gwangdahae. The Wondahae consist of two types which are circle shaped and straight types. The circle shaped wondahae contain one fringe in the main body of the belt and its joint part is decorated with a small network such as lacing decoration with the size about 1 cm around. The shape of the Wondahae has been changed from the circle shaped into the straight types and also has a tendency to be wider and longer as time went by. The standard form of the Gwangdahae is straight with about 2-3 cm width and elaborated by lacelike fringe as well. This also has a tendency to be wider starting from the 1600s show. The structure of this belts were divided into braid and ornament parts. The ornament part was constructed with the lacelike netting and fringe parts. The sophisticated craft techniques have a great decorative beauty. Through an analysis of FT-IR, the materials of those three belt are known which are made of the silk and the core thread was filled with cotton. Moreover, it can be confirmed that the glitter material of the ornament part were designed with gold foil and has been analyzed with SEM-EDX.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
• /
• v.17 no.3
• /
• pp.95-111
• /
• 2006

These series articles were written in order to understand rockers of today and to provide basic data of their designs and manufacture studying pattern changes in the West. In the first article of the series reports we already described the theoretical background of rockers and the Windsor and the Boston style among the American classic rockers from the eighteenth to the twentieth century. This article contained the characteristics of the styles of the Shaker rocker, the Wicker rocker, and the Platform rocker. The three periods associated with furnituremaking in the Shaker sect are; the Primitive Era, which lasted from 1790 to 1820; the Classical Era, from 1820 to 1860; and the Final Phase, from 1860 to 1935. The important skills the Shaker needed to make the Shaker rocker are woodturning joinery, seat braid weaving and steam bending for the slats. The Wicker rocker continues to be extremely popular furniture style as the wicker proved equally effective for translating the ornate vine-like motifs popular among Art Nouveau proponents. The Wicker rockers were developed for child's, gentleman's and lady's, and it represents the most diverse forms among the above mentioned styles. However the rocker skates were often clumsy and took up too much room, preventing the chair from being shoved close to the wall and out of the way. These problems were overcome by the Platform rocker. The most important innovation was the technical development of a stationary base, which allowed the chair to rock noiselessly, without skating along the floor. The Modernism of the modern furnitures in America and Europe were affected by the characteristics of the Shaker rocker, the Wicker rocker, and the Platform rocker.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.63 no.6
• /
• pp.56-68
• /
• 2013

A purpose of this study is to do fundamental research of construction of coat patterns in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the costumes. This study is composed of literature research, investigation of artifacts, and experiment of pattern making. The results of this study are as follows. First, even if the 15th Court Dress Rules regulated color, fabric, number of flower, width of braid, and size of button, there was no regulation regarding the shape of the coat. The analysis of the photos in those periods shows that the style of the tailcoat was different from that of today in the length of the front, the shape of breast and collar. Second, six artifacts in the collection showed that the shoulder line and the sideline were located on the further rear side than the current tailcoat. This can be confirmed in the western and Japanese pattern book, and especially the pattern drafting method in the books published in Japan in 1900s is different from current one in setting base lines of front bodice and back bodice. As a result, based on several experiments, this study proposes how to make coat patterns. The shoulder line, the sideline, and the princess line should be located in the back of the dress similar to the shape of swallowtail coats of 1900s. The front bodice should be constructed without the composition line in order to add embroidery on it. The collar, which shape looks like long half moon, should form V-shape neckline in the front breast when adjusting dress. The sleeves should be constructed top and down, and it should curve more than the modern design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.1
• /
• pp.104-118
• /
• 2011

Since Sirimavo Bandarinaike became the first female prime minister in 1960, women all over the world has been trying to break the highest glass ceiling. In a place where men had been dominating throughout history, women political leaders had to find a way to look the part by wearing power suits. Feminity was out of the question until the digital era of 21st century started. The world has evolved into a place where feminity could be strength instead of weakness. Now women political leaders are showing body curves, cleavage, using vivid and pastel colors, soft fabrics, elaborate details, accessories, long and curly hair. The padded shoulders of dark coloured power suits were replaced by soft colorful flowing feminine suits. Yulia Tymoshenko of Ukraine is the best example of 21st century woman political leader using feminity in her fashion style while enacting her role. When she first started politics in 1990's, she wore dark colored power suits like all other women political leaders did with short dark hair. As time passed her suits became more feminine with light colors and elaborate details. She has changed her hair into a neat braid, based on a traditional Ukrainian hair style. She used orange color for the Orange Revolution and white for pure image. Yulia Tymoshenko's fashion style as a way of role enactment showed professionalism, feminity, integrity, and ethnicity.

• Human Ecology Research
• /
• v.57 no.3
• /
• pp.395-406
• /
• 2019

This study examined what meaning East Asian women showed in their costume history through a discourse of hair adornments such as wigs and that Gache was not just a luxury decoration. In addition, we examined Gache hair trends with Eonjeun-meori (braid wraps around the entire head) in the Joseon dynasty (Korea), Gigye(旗?) hair in the Quing dynasty (China) and Mage(?) hair in the Edo period (Japan) during the $18^{th}$ and $19^{th}$ centuries. The significance of the phenomenon of East Asian Gache culture in the $18^{th}$ and $19^{th}$ centuries was analyzed from the internal desires of women. The details are as follows. First, the magnification by the hair decoration was identified with self-authority and used as a sign to express self-respect or a desire for self-esteem. The extended Gache was an external body extension to raise self-authority and increase activeness. Second, self-satisfaction through showing off was associated with a women's search for identity. There was excessive consumption to boast status, wealth and femininity, but the mania continued because women obtained psychological satisfaction by feeling that their sacrifices for the Confucian order were compensated. Third, the frenzy of Gache was accepted as a way for women to resist social regulations and find themselves as main participants in social activities. Showing their appearance in East Asian Gache culture was a way of inner self-searching and a process for women to find themselves as a social entity.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
• /
• v.29 no.7
• /
• pp.1-9
• /
• 2024

In this paper, we propose BRAIDS, a boot storm mitigation plan consisting of an AI-based VDI usage prediction system and a virtual machine boot scheduler system, to alleviate boot storms and improve service stability. Virtual Desktop Infrastructure (VDI) is an important technology for improving an organization's work productivity and increasing IT infrastructure efficiency. Boot storms that occur when multiple virtual desktops boot simultaneously cause poor performance and increased latency. Using the xgboost algorithm, existing VDI usage data is used to predict future VDI usage. In addition, it receives the predicted usage as input, defines a boot storm considering the hardware specifications of the VDI server and virtual machine, and provides a schedule to sequentially boot virtual machines to alleviate boot storms. Through the case study, the VDI usage prediction model showed high prediction accuracy and performance improvement, and it was confirmed that the boot storm phenomenon in the virtual desktop environment can be alleviated and IT infrastructure can be utilized efficiently through the virtual machine boot scheduler.

• Membrane Journal
• /
• v.24 no.3
• /
• pp.194-200
• /
• 2014

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the performance of newly developed Large Pore Micro-Filtration (LPMF) membrane in Lab size for the application of water treatment, and to find its problems with solutions. The out-to-inside filtration hollow fiber LPMF membrane of which average pore size was $5{\mu}m$ was used at this study and its material was the PET braid reinforced PVDF. Filtration tests were done through gravity with 30 cm water head difference or pressure below 1.5 bar, and the backwash was done instantaneously with the filtrate after pressurizing it to about 4 bar. The water flux of the LPMF membrane with 0.2 bar TMP (Trans Membrane Pressure) was 2 times higher than $0.4{\mu}m$ MF membrane with $0.05{\mu}m$ UF filtrate of the tap water and it was measured also with 20~30 cm water head difference which showed over 800 LMH at 30 cm water head difference. And Time-To-Filter (TTF) was performed by using $5{\mu}m$ filter paper to optimize coagulants and dosage which enhanced filtrate's turbidity and stabilized filtration flux. When the LPMF was operated with 30 cm gravity with very high dose of inorganic coagulants, the flux was maintained over 80 LMH with 93.5~99.5% turbidity removal. Especially, the filtration was maintained stably in the flux and about 97% of the recovery rate by instantaneous pressurized backwash with about 4 bar of the filtrate when the packing density was about 19%. But there was instability in filtration, since the TMP was continuously going up by inefficient backwash when the packing density was 43%.

• Membrane Journal
• /
• v.23 no.4
• /
• pp.257-266
• /
• 2013

The main purpose of this study is to develop a commercial scale of pervaporative process equipped with hollow fiber membrane modules, being able to effectually purify organic solvent at high temperature well over its boiling point under high vapor pressure. Three constituent technologies have been developed; 1) to fabricate braid-reinforced hollow fiber membrane stable in high pressure and high temperature application, 2) to design and fabricate a commercial scale of hollow fiber membrane module, and 3) to design and fabricate a pilot scale of pervaporation equipment system. The developed hollow fiber membrane possesses a membrane performance superior to the membrane of Sulzer (Germany) which is the most-well known for pervaporation process, and the membrane module equips hollow fiber membranes of $4.6m^2$ and the pervaporation system can treat organic liquid at 200 L/h, which is based on the dehydration of 95 wt% isopropyl alcohol (IPA). Since the membrane module is designed to flow in and pass through the inside of individual hollow fiber membrane, not to involve both the formation of feed's dead volume observed in flat-sheet membrane module and the channeling of feed occurring inside hollow fiber bundle which lower membrane performance seriously, it showed excellent separation efficiency. In particular, the module is inexpensive and has less heat loss into its surrounding, in compared with flat-sheet membrane module. In addition, permeant can be removed effectively from the outer surface of hollow fiber membrane because the applied vacuum is conveyed uniformly through space between fibers into respective fiber, even into one in the middle of the hollow fiber bundle in which the space between fibers is uniform in distance. Since the hollow fiber membrane pervaporation system is the first one ever developed in the world, our own unique proprietary technology can be secured, preoccupying technical superiority in export competitive challenges.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.1
• /
• pp.106-122
• /
• 2014

This study is based on the official Chinese history of the ancient Korean(中國正史朝鮮傳) clothing and ornaments, and also tries to discover, study, and adjust the system of the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments. Ancient Korea has very poor official records of its clothing and ornaments. Therefore, this study had no choice but to rely on the official Chinese history to cover for the lack of resources. The official Chinese history documents are not only important for studying ancient Korean history, but also important for studying about the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments. This research selected historical documents about the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments from fifteen different Chinese dynasties' official documents, and then systematically classified the documents in order to compare them. All these processes confirmed the following subjects. In regards to the Kwan(冠: general hat), the hat types included Check, Byun(弁), Jeol-poong(折風), Jowoo-Kwan(鳥羽冠), So-gol(蘇骨), and Na-kwan(羅冠). These Kwan(冠) were influenced from Chinese clothing and ornaments. Gold and silver decorations on the Kwan(冠) were influenced from the Scythai culture. The feather decorations on the hat were residual of the bird worshiping culture or the hunting lifestyle. These things show that the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments originated the clothing and ornaments from the North. But the use of Jo-woo(bird feather) was common around the globe in many ways during the ancient times, regardless of area and period. The official Chinese history describes men's hair style as Choo-gyul (椎結) or sometimes pronounced, Choo-gyul(椎結). These seem to describe the topknot. Women had various types of hair styles such as Yu-byun-bal-su-hu (wear women's hair in a braid). The official Chinese history show that the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments originated the clothing and ornaments from the north. The ancient Korean clothing and ornaments influenced and were influenced by its neighboring countries.