• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.181-189
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• 2000

A weakly nonlinear mild-slope equation has been derived directly from the continuity equation with the aid of the Galerkin's method. The equation is combined with the momentum equations defined at the mean water level. A single component model has also been obtained in terms of the surface displacement. The linearized form is completely identical with the time-dependent mild-slope equation proposed by Smith and Sprinks(1975). For the verification purposes of the present nonlinear model, the degenerate forms were compared with Airy(1845)'s non-dispersive nonlinear wave equation, classical Boussinesq equation, andsecond¬order permanent Stokes waves. In this study, the present nonlinear wave equations are discretized by the approximate factorization techniques so that a tridiagonal matrix solver is used for each direction. Through the comparison with physical experiments, nonlinear wave model capacity was examined and the overall agreement was obtained.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.96-106
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• 2000

Though the recent years, large scale structures have been built on offshore for utilization of coastal ocean space as offshore airport and marine terminals. Sometimes, those big scale structures, however, happened to act as significant barriers against waves and severe beach erosion would take place on the coast. The present study deals nearshore topography changes affected by construction of an offshore structure with different distance from the shore. The series of three dimensional movable bed experiments have been examined in detail. Moreover, in order to make clear the relation of nearshore currents and local erosions behind offshore structure, the nearshore currents are calculated by Boussinesq equation model and compared with the same scale condition of the physical model experiments.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.20 no.6 s.73
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• pp.35-40
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• 2006

In recent years, there's been strong demand for seawalls that havea gentle slope and permeability that serveswater affinity and disaster prevention from wave attack. The aim of this study is to examine wave transformation, including wave run-up that propagates on the coastal structures. A numerical model based on the weak nonlinear dispersive Boussinesq equation, together with the unsteady nonlinear Darcy law for fluid motion in permeable layer, is developed. The applicability of this numerical model is examined through Deguchi and Moriwaki's hydraulic model test on the permeable slopes. From this study, it is found that the proposed numerical model can predict wave transformation and run-up on the gentle slope with a permeable layer, but can't show accurate results for slopes steeper than about 1:10.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2011.02a
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• pp.57-57
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• 2011

지진해일은 진행속도가 빠르고 파장이 길며 파형의 변화 없이 먼 거리를 진행 할 수 있어 주변지역은 물론 멀리 떨어진 지역에도 심한 범람피해를 야기시킨다. 지진해일의 일반적인 특징으로 장파와 단파가 합성되어 있고 먼 거리를 전파할 경우 분산효과의 역할이 중요하게 된다. 특히 우리나라의 동해안에 영향을 주는 지진해일은 단주기파 성분이 강하고 파장에 비해 먼 거리를 전파하기에 분산을 고려하는 선형 Boussinesq 방정식을 지배방정식으로 사용하는 것이 바람직하다. 하지만 지금까지의 지진해일 전파모의를 위한 모형은 선형 Boussinesq 방정식의 복잡한 계산과 계산시간이 길다는 단점 때문에 선형 천수방정식을 지배방정식으로 사용하고 분산효과는 수치분산을 이용하여 고려해왔다. 지진해일 해석 시 일반적으로 사용되어 오던 기존의 leap-frog 유한차분 모형(Imamura et al., 1988; 조용식, 1996)은 지배방정식으로 선형 천수방정식을 사용하고 파의 분산효과는 수치분산을 이용하여 고려하므로 정해진 시간 간격에 대해 수심에 따라 격자 간격을 적절히 선택해야 하는데 수심이 복잡하게 변하는 경우 격자간격 조정이 불가능하여 분산효과를 정도 높게 고려할 수 없다. 이 문제점을 해결하기 위하여 윤성범 등(2004)은 파동방정식의 인위적인 분산항을 이용하여 Boussinesq 방정식의 분산효과를 고려할 수 있는 능동적인 분산보정기법을 제안하였고 Cho et al.(2007)는 일정한 수심에서 수치적인 분산오차가 Boussinesq 방정식의 물리적인 분산항을 대체하도록 수심, 격자 간격 및 계산 시간 간격 사이의 관계식을 유도하고 Boussinesq 방정식의 분산항과 일치하는 수치분산을 이용하여 실용적인 분산보정기법을 개발하였다. 이에 Ahn(2010)은 현재 컴퓨터의 계산 능력이 향상되어 선형 Boussinesq 방정식을 직접 차분하여 계산하는데 무리가 없다고 판단하여 선형 Boussinesq 방정식을 직접 차분한 모형을 개발하였다. 본 연구에서는 기존의 원해 지진해일 전파모의에 이용되어왔던 선형 천수방정식에 수치분산을 고려한 모형 대신 선형 Boussinesq 방정식의 유한차분 모형을 제안하였으며 기존의 선형 Boussinesq 방정식 모형의 격자와 수심간의 제약을 없애기 위해 차분 기법을 달리 한 2차 정확도의 유한차분 모형을 제안하였다. 검증을 위하여 선형 Boussinesq 방정식의 해석해(Carrier, 1991)와 비교하였다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.11-19
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• 2024

In this study, the program was modified by adding the empirical formula of EurOtop (2018) to enable calculation of wave overtopping on armoured slope structures in the FUNWAVE-TVD model using the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation. The validity of the modified numerical model was verified by comparing it with CLASH data and experiment data for the rubble mound structure. This model accurately reproduced the change in wave overtopping rate according to the difference in the roughness factor of the armoured block, and well reproduced the rate of decrease in wave overtopping rate due to the increase in relative freeboard. The overtopping rate of the armoured slope structures showed significant differences depending on the positioning condition of the armoured blocks. When Tetrapods were placed with regular positioning, the overtopping rate increased significantly compared to when they were placed with random positioning, and it was consistent with when they were placed with Rocks. Meanwhile, when rocks were placed in one row, the wave overtopping rate was greater than when rocks were placed in two rows, which is believed to be due to the influence of the roughness and permeability of the structure's surface.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2010.05a
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• pp.218-222
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• 2010

본 연구에서는 ${\sigma}$-좌표계를 기반으로 하는 3차원의 이송확산 모형과 depth-integrated eddy simulation 모형을 결합한 효율적인 3차원 근역 (near-field) 해석모형을 제시하였다. 흐름 모형은 Boussinesq-type equations과 stochastic backscatter model을 기본으로 하고 있다. 이 흐름 모형은 수면의 변화와 바닥으로부터 발생하는 전단력과 파랑의 유동으로부터 발행하는 수심방향의 유속분포를 예측할 수 있다. 이와 같은 흐름 정보를 3차원 ${\sigma}$-좌표계의 이송확산모형에 제공하고 scalar의 이송과 확산에 대한 거동을 계산한다. 기본적인 이송과 이송-확산에 대한 검증 및 개수로에서 정량적 검증과 정성적 검증을 수행하였다. 전반적으로 타당한 결과가 도출되어 모형의 적합성이 있음을 확인하였다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.276-284
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• 2011

The rip current occurred at Haeundae beach was numerically investigated under directional random wave environment. The numerical simulation was performed using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation model, FUNWAVE which is capable of simulating nearshore circulation since it includes the effect of wave-induced momentum flux and horizontal turbulent mixing. The results of numerical simulation show the time-dependent evolution of the wave-induced nearshore circulation system (including rip current) that are caused by nonlinear transformation of directional irregular waves due to unique topography of Haeundae. From the results, it was found that rip current is well generated and developed where relatively lower wave height and relatively deeper water depth along the longshore direction, and sudden and strong events of rip current were observed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.314-326
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• 2014

On 31 March 2007, the abnormal wave occurred along the western coast of Korea. In order to investigate the generation mechanism of abnormal waves and to understand the amplification process of the abnormal waves, the observed data were analyzed and one-dimensional numerical model experiments were performed by using both the linear shallow water equation and the linear Boussinesq equation models. Various types of pressure jump for the abnormal waves previously proposed by other researchers were reviewed. As a result, it was not possible to reproduce the abnormal waves from the previously proposed pressure jumps. In this study, we proposed a new form of pressure jump, and numerical simulations were performed in order to check the validity of the proposed pressure jump. The numerical results showed that the calculated period of abnormal waves and the maximum water elevations agreed reasonably well with those of the observations.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2007.02a
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• pp.395-398
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• 2007

In this study, new dispersion-correction terms are added to leap-frog finite difference scheme for the linear shallow-water equations with the purpose of considering the dispersion effects of the linear Boussinesq equations for the propagation of tsunamis. The new model is applied to near Gadeok island in Pusan about The Central East Sea Tsunami in 1983 and The Hokkaldo Nansei Oki Earthquake Tsunami in 1993 one simulated in the study.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.257-264
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• 2021

This study established a numerical model capable of calculating the wave overtopping rate of coastal structures by nonlinear irregular waves using the FUNWAVE-TVD model, a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. Here, a numerical model was established by coding the mean value approach equations of EurOtop (2018) and empirical formula by Goda (2009), and adding them as subroutines of the FUNWAVE-TVD model. The verification of the model was performed by numerically calculating the wave overtopping rate of nonlinear irregular waves on vertical wall structures and comparing them with the experimental results presented in EurOtop (2018). As a result of the verification, the numerical calculation result according to the EurOtop equation of this model was very well matched with the experimental result in all relative freeboard (R_c/H_mo) range under non-impulsive wave conditions, and the numerical calculation result of empirical formula was evaluated slightly smaller than the experimental result in R_c/H_mo < 0.8 and slightly larger than the experimental result in R_c/H_mo > 0.8. The results of this model were well represented in both the exponential curve and the power curve under impulsive wave conditions. Therefore, it was confirmed that this numerical model can simulate the wave overtopping rate caused by nonlinear irregular waves in an vertical wall structure.