• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.75-87
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• 2002

The nineteenth century was a watershed - the extreme point of difference in the style of fashion dress and in the roles men and women played in society. This conviction has its roots in the socioeconomic changes of the 19th century and the industrial revolution, and the new working bourgeoisie' value, fashion and taste were on the rise. The bourgeois, who was not considered as having infallible taste, was looking for its own style, while on the other hand it was competing with the nobility. Therefore bourgeois' own etiquette and taste were appeared. There was ideals which the middle classes were hungry for, and it became the basis of judging an individual. The bourgeois tried to get social approval and used fashion was the mean of it. Bourgeois women fashion has a funtion as a complete symbol of the status, wealth and leisure in a patriachal society. Not only the Bourgeois tried to control themselves and to achieve the virtue of moderation, chastity and obedience by the restrictive costume, but also extravagant and cumbersome dresses has a kind of compensative funtion against a sober and simple men's dress. There was a reformative movement to break out of the legal, economic and social restrictions within the confines of respectable Victorian Society. The process of reform was long and slow for not only did laws be changed but the barriers of prejudice in a society convinced of man s mental and physical superiority had to be overcome. But even though there were many difficulties, a small number of progressive women challenged the social recognition and role of women and decisively refused the restrictive and ostentative fashion. Victorian costume was also criticized in the medical and aesthetic aspect for their impracticality. As a result, more funtional and practical women's clothes has appeared, but it have resulted in a peculiar hybrid of traditional female attire in combination with the more uncomfortable aspects of men's clothes. However it was becoming an essential look for new women who were the equals of men and wanted to be treated as such.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.102-118
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to derive the characteristics of fashion that appeared in the daily life of bourgeois women in Paris in the late 19th-century, and to examine the attitudes women showed toward fashion in the modernized city of Paris. The research method was a literature study and a visual data analysis study targeting fashion of bourgeois women from 1860s to 1900s out of Mary Cassatt's 155 works and Berthe Morisot's 147 works from Wikiart's digital images. The characteristics and attitudes showed in fashion in terms of women's painter's work, women's daily life, and women's space are as follows. First, while the subject matter of their works was restricted to the house, fashion was described with the sensual colors, elegance, and sophistication anticipated of a woman's nature. The represented attitude toward women and fashion includes advice for pursuing the dignity of maternal love and women's intellectual life, as well as an attempt to reflect a current point of view on the woman image. Second, the daily life of bourgeois women was childcare, needlework, reading, and grooming. They valued socialization and entertainment as well as intimacy and education with children, so they wore different clothes depending on the situation. This suggested that it was necessary to dress appropriately both at home and when going out. Third, despite the fact that the public space for women was limited, they dressed elegantly in a variety of trends when they went out. This was fashion worn only for appearance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.45-57
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• 2002

21th century is evolving from physical to brain-oriented society, and from class oriented society to network society. In the midst of it, bobos is the new enlightened elite group. In depth analyzationon of the beat generation from the 1950's and hippies from the 1960's, which had influenced the bobos, were done to study on such new and core elite group. According to the research, the emerging of bobos was originated and created from the long gone conflict between the beat and bourgeois, and the hippie and the conservative. And this mixed culture of both free-spirited hippie and materialistic yuppies from the 80's is rapidly growing, and they are easily seem from various commercial advertisements, accessories and fashion designs. In addition, the bobo's were targeted by the main designers, and expressed through bohemian luxury and romantic hippie mood. Naive and childish floral prints, paisley prints that were influenced by the hippies, the hair styles from the 80's and washed denims were seen at the collections. However, the symbolism of the 60's defiant fashion styles seem to fade away but remains only as a style. The comparison and analyzation between the fashion of bobos, hidden meaning of those defiant fashion styles and the aesthetics of it are arranged in the following conclusions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.2 s.67
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• pp.232-251
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to understand sexuality expressed in fashion in a discursive view and reinterpret sexuality represented in fashion in the 19th century in Foucauldian post-structural perspective. As for methodology, at first the conception of sexuality was examined from structural feminism to post-structural pluralism by a literature review and discussed in relation with the matters of body and fashion on the basis of Foucault's discourse. Then, sexuality represented in the 19C fashion as a case study was re-estimated in terms of power relationship between dominant and oppositional discourses and mainstream fashion and anti-fashion as well. The conception of sexuality in Foucauldian post-structuralism maintains the view of plural sexuality, which floats by discourse and power produced in a specific historical context. In the Foucauldian perspective sexuality expressed in the mainstream fashion and anti-fashion in the nineteenth century shows the following aspects. The mainstream fashion in the middle and latter of the 19C made the clear sexual difference in dress of plain and functional male suit and extravagant and decorative female dress on the center of bourgeois masculinity in the context of modernity and capitalism. Although anti-fashion was also co-existed with the mainstream fashion, it was criticized by the Victorian people. It codifies sexual ideology of the binary opposition of male domination and female subordination. Therefore, the traditional sexual ideology in the 19C is a capitalist value, which gives a priority to bourgeois man's profits, and the Victorian discourses of sexuality constructs the clear sexual difference in dress in the period.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.23-34
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• 2001

This study aimed to investigate the Bobos style which represents new upper class in the information age and has influence on fashion world, and present the marketing strategy for that. As a result, Bobos' buying behavior of fashion goods and marketing strategy for that were as follows. The first, Bobos fashion style and their characteristics of buying behavior were 1. the pursuit of luxury and high quality 2. the pursuit of blending taste and of the traditional bourgeois and the bohemians 3. the pursuit of utility and practical thing 4. the pursuit of self expression and sense 5. the pursuit of natural and antique taste 6. pursuit of cultural and artistic aspect. The second, marketing strategy for Bobos' buying behavior of fashion goods were as follows. 1. Blending of the traditional prestige and freedom should be reflected on fashion goods. 2. The utility and natural style of fashion goods are needed. 3. The non-conspicous self expression and artisticㆍcultural taste should be reflected on fashion goods.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.177-192
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to define masculinity as a shilling concept, stemming from the process of power groups controlling the conscious and unconscious of human beings to diffuse their ideologies, and to examine how masculinity has been reflected in aesthetic images in men's bodies and fashion. As for the research methodology, literary research and demonstrative studies through the analysis of pictures and photos were undertaken. Emerging in the wake of the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century, the absolute powers such as the bourgeois elite, males and the Wet emphasized the importance of reason, and made aesthetic images such as authority, robustness and modernization in men's fashion. In the conversion to the Information Society, poweres horizintally spread out over society. By using non-reason, diverse power groups have broken down traditional masculinity and express diverse aesthetic images in men's fashion such as eroticism, multi-culturalism and liberation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.539-548
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to know outer and inner characteristics of Bobos style regarded the latest fashion and to estimate the characteristics of fashion trend in 21st century and direction of fashion in the future, In terms of contentions of this study, we firstly studied concept, background, general characteristics which had been introduced in Sociology. And then, we studied the effect which the style of Bobos had been given by investigating the concept and style of Hippies and Yuppies. Also, we analysed trend of Bobos represented in modem fashion and tried to examine outer and inner features of Bobos through the result of analysis. Bobos can defined as 'Bourgeois Bohemian' who have both mundane desire about success and are high-educated elite class in information-oriented society. The fashion styles which had affected Bobos were psychedelic, naturalism, unisex, ethnic, layered, grunge of Hippies in 1960s and traditional, power-look, contemporary-look, sports wear, casual wear of Yuppies in 1980s. As a result of examining features of Bobos style, we can know that outer feature of Bobos style showed a reasonable harmony regardless of formalities and inner features showed a tendency to seek comforts. Also, Bobos style showed various and free styles, textile materials and colors and complex features to transcend the time and region, and culture.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2020

Romanticists realized the ideals of a more fantastic and better society for the present day in which they lived; in addition, dress was an important medium of expression of this period. The Incroyables were a group that expressed eccentric forms and abuses of luxury through their clothing, centering around the second generation of financial elite groups during the French Directoire. Incroyables created their own fashion that expresses their new image in dress, expressing the intense personal innerity of life, which was influenced by the romanticism of pursuing an internal expression of the subjective and emotional individual. This study used a literature review to analyze the characteristics of the Romanticism expressed in the Incroyables fashion. The research results were as follows. First, it was an expression of an emotional desire for and ancient regime. Incroyables fashion were based on bourgeois nostalgia for the days of the ancient regime that resulted in an emphasis on individual and original human views. Second, it was also a hybrid of Romantic classicism. It was a form emphasizing body form where body beauty expressed a classical form through a dress under the influence of neo-classicalism that desires to return to nature.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.47
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• pp.143-160
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• 1999

The purpose of this dissertation is to interpret fashion through a socio-cultural phenomenon called kitsch by understanding its aesthetic characteristics and clarifying its significance in the modern consumer society and analyzing the examples of kitsch appearing in modern fashion. The following are the arguments and conclusion of this dissertation. First kitsch has negative meanings such as aesthetic inadequacy or bad tastes implying vulgar popular tastes of faked sensations just imitating elite culture and using things indiscriminately for inferior reproduction or at best the philosophical and aesthetic category that expresses the mass of people's attitudes toward life in accepting the consumer culture of the industrial society. It started from the art of romanticism accompanied by th commercializing of art with the bourgeois society background formed in the mid-19th century. Though kitsch started to prevail following the socio-cultural changes caused by the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century it is only in the late 20th century that kitsch has come tc our everyday life and has become an object of aesthetic arguments. Second formative characteristics of kitsch appearin in fashion have a cumulative inadequate romantic pleasure-seeking satirizing and multicomplex nature. Third the socio-cultural meanings of kitsch appearing in fashion are as follows: The extension of commercialism which gratifies the pleasure-seeking mass consumers the enlargement of the aesthetic category by inclining to everyday commonplace aesthetic sense the expression of one's identity through the gratification of desire and the new aesthetics of resistance and deviance by an anti-traditional and anti-elite tendency towards the traditional society and aesthetic values.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.5 s.114
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• pp.166-182
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to reinterpret sexuality represented in fashion since the latter half of the 19th century in a contextual view, on the basis of Foucauldian idea of post-structural sexuality. As for research methodology, literary research was undertaken from the conception of sexuality to a historical review of the culture and dress. Foucault maintains the view of plural sexuality, which floats by power relationship between dominant and oppositional discourses in a specific historical context. In contextual approach sexual ideology codified in fashion since the latter 19C shows the following aspects: First, the traditional sexual ideology in the latter 19C is a capitalist value, which gives a priority to bourgeois man's profits, and the Victorian discourses of sexuality constructs the dichotomized fashion of the period. Next, the former half of the $20^{th}$ C is regarded as the period of conformity rather than opposition with various alternatives appropriated to the mainstream, so the traditional sexual ideology in fashion of this period is still preserved. Finally, in post-capitalism period of the latter 20C a variety of anti-fashion visualized plural sexuality from the enormous oppositional discourses. Although it doesn't all mean deconstruction of sexuality in fashion by the anti-fashion re-appropriated without oppositional meanings, pluralization of sexuality implies dynamics of sexual discourses in the next historical period. As a result, fashion since the latter 19C has been changed as a means for expressing age and sexual desire out of gender and class. And mainstream fashion in even postmodern period keeps the modern value on the center of the hegemonic heterosexual masculinity though the increase of Androgynous Femininity in women's fashion may connote the meaning of femininity. The plural sexuality represented in fashion has a contextual flexibility, thus sexuality floats with a specific socio-cultural context and fashion represents a masquerade as an identity vehicle.