Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.4
no.3
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pp.75-87
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2002
The nineteenth century was a watershed - the extreme point of difference in the style of fashion dress and in the roles men and women played in society. This conviction has its roots in the socioeconomic changes of the 19th century and the industrial revolution, and the new working bourgeoisie' value, fashion and taste were on the rise. The bourgeois, who was not considered as having infallible taste, was looking for its own style, while on the other hand it was competing with the nobility. Therefore bourgeois' own etiquette and taste were appeared. There was ideals which the middle classes were hungry for, and it became the basis of judging an individual. The bourgeois tried to get social approval and used fashion was the mean of it. Bourgeois women fashion has a funtion as a complete symbol of the status, wealth and leisure in a patriachal society. Not only the Bourgeois tried to control themselves and to achieve the virtue of moderation, chastity and obedience by the restrictive costume, but also extravagant and cumbersome dresses has a kind of compensative funtion against a sober and simple men's dress. There was a reformative movement to break out of the legal, economic and social restrictions within the confines of respectable Victorian Society. The process of reform was long and slow for not only did laws be changed but the barriers of prejudice in a society convinced of man s mental and physical superiority had to be overcome. But even though there were many difficulties, a small number of progressive women challenged the social recognition and role of women and decisively refused the restrictive and ostentative fashion. Victorian costume was also criticized in the medical and aesthetic aspect for their impracticality. As a result, more funtional and practical women's clothes has appeared, but it have resulted in a peculiar hybrid of traditional female attire in combination with the more uncomfortable aspects of men's clothes. However it was becoming an essential look for new women who were the equals of men and wanted to be treated as such.
This paper examines four genre paintings on the subject of child education by Jean-Baptiste-Sim${\'{e}}$on Chardin(1699-1779). The Governess, The Diligent Mother, Saying Grace, and The Morning Toilette garnered critical attention after they were exhibited in the Salon from 1739 to 1741. After the exhibition, the paintings were made into prints and frequently sold to members of the bourgeois class in Paris. The iconographical details of Chardin's genre paintings have, thus far, been compared to Dutch genre pictures of the seventeenth century. Further, most studies conducted on Chardin's paintings focus on formal analysis rather than the historical and social contexts. Through attempting social-contextual readings of Chardin's educational series, this paper argues that the significance of Chardin's painting series of child education lies in his representation of the ideal French bourgeois family and the standard of early childhood education in the eighteenth-century French Enlightenment period. In each of the four child education paintings, Chardin depicted a mother with children in a domestic space. Even though this theme derives from traditional Dutch genre paintings in the seventeenth century, the visual motifs, the pictorial atmosphere and the painting techniques of Chardin all project the social culture of eighteenth century France. Each painting in the child education series exemplifies respectively the attire of a French gentlemen, the social view on womanhood and the education of girls, newly established table manners, and the dressing up culture in a 'toilette' in eighteenth century France. Distinct from other educational scenes in previous genre paintings, Chardin accentuated the naive and innocent characteristics of a child and exemplified the mother's warmth toward that child in her tender facial expressions and gesturing. These kinds of expressions illustrate the newly structured standard of education in the French Enlightenment period. Whereas medieval people viewed children as immature and useless, people in the eighteenth century began to recognize children for their more positive features. They compared children to a blank piece of paper (tabula rasa), which signified children's innocence, and suggested that children possess neither good nor bad virtues. This positive perspective on children slowly transformed the pedagogical methods. Teaching manuals instructed governesses and mothers to respect each child's personality rather than be strict and harsh to them. Children were also allotted more playtimes, which explains the display of various toys in the backgrounds of Chardin's series of four paintings. Concurrently, the interior, where this exemplary education was executed, alludes to the virtue of the bourgeois's moderate and thrifty daily life in eighteenth century France. While other contemporary painters preferred to depict the extravagant living space of a French bourgeoisie, Chardin portrayed a rather modest and cozy home interior. In contrast to the highly decorated living space of aristocrats, he presented the realistic, humble domestic space of a bourgeois, filled with modern household objects. In addition, the mother is exceptionally clad in working clothes instead of fashionable dresses of the moment. Fit to take care of household affairs and children, the mother represents the ideal virtues of a bourgeois family. It can be concluded that the four genre paintings of child education by Chardin articulate the new standards of juvenile education in eighteenth century France as well as the highly recognized social virtues between French bourgeois families. Thus, Chardin's series of child education would have functioned as a demonstration of the ideal living standards of the bourgeois class and their emphasis on early childhood education in the French Enlightenment period.
Journal of Korean Classical Literature and Education
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no.32
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pp.327-355
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2016
This study aims to identify petit bourgeois desires through the characters in "Oksosun Stories" from Cheonyerok, an eighteenth-century Yadam anthology. The desires and motivations of the characters are quite secular and egocentric. Because of this, their shared characteristics are similar to those of the petit bourgeois, as neutral existence begins to emerge during the transition from feudal to modern society. The concept of petit bourgeois generally means the public and the working class of modern society. The main character's behavior in the story differs little from general petit bourgeois attitudes. An important belief in petit bourgeois is not the ruling ideology in society but the achievement and stability of realistic and ordinary desires to fulfill their lives' satisfaction. Also selfish or antisocial attitudes and boundary characteristics appear in the process, depending on whether subject having any desire. However, the character's actions are limited in the governance system of a huge reality. And It is characterized by end goal being to meet their upward mobility and stability. This corresponds with Seang's (書生) actions of turning his back on his family and country as well as promising Jaran his love; and, he redeems himself with his family and society by acquiring stability after he passed the state examination. Furthermore, the contemporary significance of this work demonstrates Seang (書生) discovering his desires for human love; therefore, in order to affirm and gratify this desire, he endures the societal state of semi-feudalism against filial duty (不孝), disloyalty (不忠), and non-chastity (不烈), and he acts independently. In addition, on the strength of his pursuit of his desires, Oksosun frees herself from the caste restraint called gisaeng (妓生) and affirms her desire to become a subject of love, but she then deviates from the social system. Moreover, the limitations and achievements of the petit bourgeois are indicated in the actions of recognizing the social threshold of their past in the process, making independent efforts using their capabilities, fulfilling success in the state examination with their intellectual capacity, and re-entering society. From the late Chosun Dynasty to modern times, there is not only the type of contemporary people who hunger for fulfillment of their personal desire and live in free will, but there is also the feudal type that is still lacking in the understanding of independent life. This is not as different as in these present times. This literature asserts the meaning of awakening one's self-existence and assigning great value to the fulfillment of self-desires against the odds that are created by socio-political, cultural, economic norms of the era. "Oksosun Story" affirms the small efforts and successes of private individuals in reality. It also validates the search for life happiness through positivity. In this sense, even the contemporary reader would derive valid meaningfulness from this literature.
The purpose of this study was to derive the characteristics of fashion that appeared in the daily life of bourgeois women in Paris in the late 19th-century, and to examine the attitudes women showed toward fashion in the modernized city of Paris. The research method was a literature study and a visual data analysis study targeting fashion of bourgeois women from 1860s to 1900s out of Mary Cassatt's 155 works and Berthe Morisot's 147 works from Wikiart's digital images. The characteristics and attitudes showed in fashion in terms of women's painter's work, women's daily life, and women's space are as follows. First, while the subject matter of their works was restricted to the house, fashion was described with the sensual colors, elegance, and sophistication anticipated of a woman's nature. The represented attitude toward women and fashion includes advice for pursuing the dignity of maternal love and women's intellectual life, as well as an attempt to reflect a current point of view on the woman image. Second, the daily life of bourgeois women was childcare, needlework, reading, and grooming. They valued socialization and entertainment as well as intimacy and education with children, so they wore different clothes depending on the situation. This suggested that it was necessary to dress appropriately both at home and when going out. Third, despite the fact that the public space for women was limited, they dressed elegantly in a variety of trends when they went out. This was fashion worn only for appearance.
National Republic of China is The republic of China (1912-1949) which experienced a bourgeois-democratic revolution so as to establish was the first and last Chinese bourgeois democratic republic in the history, During this period, great changes have taken place in Chinese society. Emerging bourgeois political began to show the power on the political stage of China. Both political and social environment in this period are turbulent and Western ideas, thoughts and various aspects concept is introduced to China in this period. As the external performance of society, civil society also has a general changed influence in all aspects of lifestyle. Due to the influence of the western design, poster design in the period of the republic of China has a variety of changes and the theme of the posters also became rich and diversity. The author, as a student, talk about the type, pattern and color characteristics of poster design in the period.
21th century is evolving from physical to brain-oriented society, and from class oriented society to network society. In the midst of it, bobos is the new enlightened elite group. In depth analyzationon of the beat generation from the 1950's and hippies from the 1960's, which had influenced the bobos, were done to study on such new and core elite group. According to the research, the emerging of bobos was originated and created from the long gone conflict between the beat and bourgeois, and the hippie and the conservative. And this mixed culture of both free-spirited hippie and materialistic yuppies from the 80's is rapidly growing, and they are easily seem from various commercial advertisements, accessories and fashion designs. In addition, the bobo's were targeted by the main designers, and expressed through bohemian luxury and romantic hippie mood. Naive and childish floral prints, paisley prints that were influenced by the hippies, the hair styles from the 80's and washed denims were seen at the collections. However, the symbolism of the 60's defiant fashion styles seem to fade away but remains only as a style. The comparison and analyzation between the fashion of bobos, hidden meaning of those defiant fashion styles and the aesthetics of it are arranged in the following conclusions.
In this work, we confirm a weak version of a conjecture proposed by Hong Wang. The ideal of the work comes from the tree packing conjecture made by Gyárfás and Lehel. Bollobás confirms the tree packing conjecture for many small tree, who showed that one can pack T1, T2, …, $T_{n/\sqrt{2}}$ into Kn and that a better bound would follow from a famous conjecture of Erdős. In a similar direction, Hobbs, Bourgeois and Kasiraj made the following conjecture: Any sequence of trees T1, T2, …, Tn, with Ti having order i, can be packed into Kn-1,[n/2]. Further Hobbs, Bourgeois and Kasiraj [3] proved that any two trees can be packed into a complete bipartite graph Kn-1,[n/2]. Motivated by the result, Hong Wang propose the conjecture: For each k-partite tree T(𝕏) of order n, there is a restrained packing of two copies of T(𝕏) into a complete k-partite graph Bn+m(𝕐), where $m={\lfloor}{\frac{k}{2}}{\rfloor}$. Hong Wong [4] confirmed this conjecture for k = 2. In this paper, we prove a weak version of this conjecture.
While Lukacs advocated the progressive effect that Darwin's evolutionary theory had on Goethe and Balzac, he was convinced that the "influences of Nietzsche, Freud, or Spengler on the writers" of his own time were "devastating." He maintains that to the "'vacuous' reality" of bourgeois life, "the bourgeois writer counterposes 'the life of the soul,' which is 'alone decisive.' This life of the soul then becomes the centre of gravity, and sometimes the sole content of his portrayal." Naming this creative tendency psychologism, he warns against the danger of "depicting only the 'inner life,' and carrying on a more or less conscious education in the direction of political and social indifferentism, of ignoring and pushing aside the 'inessential,' 'external' struggles of the world, in favour of the 'life of the soul,' which is all that matters." However, Frantz Fanon's analysis of the psychology of the colonized in Black Skin, White Masks displays that after all, "the life of the soul" cannot be separated from the "external' struggles of the world." Pat Barker's Regeneration Trilogy, which criticizes the conduct of World War I by British leaders and the British society in general with its patriarchal, gender, and class repression by depicting the psychopathology of the shell shock victims of the same war amply shows the possibility of portraying the "external struggles of the world" through the in-depth probing into "the life of the soul" and finding political and social relevance in the process.
Narrative has broad domains. So it is related to the everything man faces in his daily life and also performed in various modes. Narrative is revealed through all media including a character, which is also applied to plastic art. And narrative objects formed beyond the differences in media aid forms of expression are commonly based on a language. The study on such objects which created a new conceit of narratology can be said to be a spiritual trend by which to understand the world and man from the viewpoint of a 'story'. Plastic art took high interest in narrative in the same period as the rise of postmodernist art in the latter half of the 20th century, which was also applied to sculpture. The researcher, therefore, investigated through the history of sculpture in the 20th century the process in which narrative was denied under the value system of modernism and reappeared with the quickening of postmodernism. And as a result this period could be briefly characterized by 'return to figure' and 'reappearance of narrative'. The is, such flow means that late sculpture converted its center of interest from simple geometric abstract forms to irregular, figurative images. The researcher chose as the subject of his study the work of Louise Bourgeois, who was judged to have performed narrative positively and successfully among a great number of performed narrative positively and successfully among a great number of postmodernist sculptors who adopted it as their own strategy of expression. As the central artist of postmodrnist sculpture, She expressed human desire and condition as sexuality through the introspection of her own personal experience in contrast to the character of pop art sensitive to external world. The researcher borrowed narrative semiotics as a method of analyzing more elaborately the problem about the generation of narrative shown in her works. For it, he selected as the sample work for analysis Bourgeois's , which were judged to contain narrative most abundantly and as the metaphor of a gaze and recollection presented a new woman self that sublimed love, hatred, and loneliness. The narrative in her works are characterized by introspection questioning one's own trauma. It has independent domain and characteristics and clearly reveals narrative and content-centered characteristics, which are commonly discovered in postmodernist sculpture. The researcher could more concretely and definitely understand the characteristics of narrative through figurative images by analyzing the sample work. The researcher wanted to call your attention to the fact that the sculpture in the late 20th century contained narrative commonly and uniformly despite being characterized by various expressions and modes. And the focused on highlighting the fact that the narrative was more effectively revealed through figurative images of human body and simultaneously analyzing the formalizing process and structure for narrative. Besides he wanted to argue that the position of narrative defining the characteristics of sculpture should be valued more justly. Also, such acceptance of narrative, which is discovered in the sculpture, will have to be understood as the characteristics of the period reflecting the cultural aspect of the present time.
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