• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.35 no.5
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• pp.416-429
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• 2019

Bongchae is primarily employed for toning, which is the last step in the conservation treatment of paper's cultural properties. The objective of this study is to identify the coloring patterns of four types of Bongchae(Bonram, Gamboge, Yeonji, and Daeja) and determine the associated color change patterns through accelerated aging experiments. By examining the coloring patterns, it is observed that Yeonji, Bonram, and Daeja are painted as particles, whereas Gamboge indicates a close state of coating. Results obtained from X-ray diffraction analysis of Bongchae indicate that the presence of quartz, calcite, and pyrophyllite can be equally detected in Bonram, Yeonji, and Daeja. Additionally, the presence of goethite is also detected in Daeja. Gamboge becomes discolored from yellow to orange color during wet thermal aging, and Gamboge and Yeonji become decolorized during UV irradiation aging. Hence, cultural properties of paper colored with Gamboge can be predicted to become discolored to orange color by alkalis and can be darkened by UV rays because the decolorization of Gamboge and Yeonji occurs preferentially.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.74-87
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• 2010

Jeokgwan(翟冠, crown decorated with pheasant motifs) is a queen's ceremonial headdress during the early Joseon dynasty. It originated from Bong-gwan(鳳冠, crown decorated with phoenix motifs) worn by the Chinese empress. Bong-gwan(鳳冠) was originally various types of hairpins worn with the topknot hair style, such as Bongchae(鳳釵) Hwasu(花樹) Bakbin(博鬢), but during the Sung dynasty(宋, 960-1279) these ornamental hairpins were combined with the crown worn by the empress. Bong-gwan(鳳冠) worn during the Ming dynasty(明, 1368-1644) varied according to the wearer's social status and it was worn both by the empress and other court ladies. Jeokgwan(翟冠), one type of Bong-gwan(鳳冠) worn by the queens and princesses of Ming dynasty, was given to those of the Joseon dynasty as a gift until the early 17th century. According to the portraits and remains of China, when women wore the Jeokgwan(翟冠), they were supposed to place the crown onto the hair, and then, fix the crown to the hair by putting on gorgeous hairpins. The lower edge of the crown was wrapped around with Gu-gwon(口圈), which was decorated with kingfisher's feathers. There are several flowery decorations on Gu-gwon(口圈), and this style is similar to Daeyobanja(大腰斑子), a queen's ceremonial hairband during the late Joseon dynasty.