• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.225-230
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• 2005

This research was undertaken to compare basic bodice prototypes for Internet shopping customer, and to select a profitable fit vacant space quantity between clothing and body. A total one hundred of eighteen outfits (4 types of pattern ${\times}$ 9 subjects ${\times}$5 body areas) were constructed with basic bodice drafting method of Japan Bunka Women's University according to nine male body types. Fifty-two experts analysis of the different prototypes as five body area and evaluate the most appropriate ease amount and stabilization of the simulation images on the computer. The experiments with automated methods using simulation image are based on AZ program of TORAY, Japan. Data was analyzed using percentiles, frequency and $X^2$. Taken together, the present result of vacant space quantity and stability evaluation through images shows that there is a significant difference in the size variation of the chest circumference, shoulder slope and waist circumference. In case of ease amount, chest area, shoulder slope, waist area and armhole except neckline area were shown more appropriate on the basic bodice pattern without size change. In case of stabilization, the chest area, shoulder slope and armhole except waist area and neckline area was shown the best on the basic bodice pattern without size change. However the waist area was shown on the basic bodice pattern plus 2 cm, neckline was shown more appropriate on the basic bodice pattern plus 1cm.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.75-83
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• 1995

A pregnant woman usually brings on a great change of her body line after the six month pregnant time. In particular, the abdomen is the biggest of all body parts, in the latter of her pregnance, compared with the fact of the bosom is as such for the common body line. Accordingly, we have the 10 main item to design a pregnant woman's proper pattern by the Body Volume Pre-Outline. The pregnent woman's bodice basic pattern of this study is designed loosely for hiding the change of body as the progress of pregnance, in order to be applied to a pregnant woman's pattern design variously.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.7 s.144
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• pp.1018-1026
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• 2005

Recent development of 3D scanner and software is regarded as a promising method of acquiring replicas from human body indirectly. It would be very helpful if we could predict the characteristics of 2D pattern from the simple parameters related to 3D shape for ordinary user. Therefore, in this study, investigation of 2D pattern of waist/abdominal area from the 3D geometrical model was conducted for the pattern development of waist nipper. To create body models and develop the surface of them, one ortho commonly used CAD/CAM program, IDEAS(UGS-plm solutions, USA) was used. As for the size of the models, the width, thickness, and circumference ranges of adult women's torso reported in National Anthropometric Survey of Korea (1997) were used as a standard model. Seven size variations were made by changing the width of the waist only, from 19 cm to 40 cm. Therefore, simulated body models include not only the normal body but also obese body who has wider waist and abdomen width than hip width. As results, it was found that the curvature of the unfolded 2D pattern around the abdominal area decreases as the waist width increases. As the width of the waist increases more and more, so that the comparative ratios around the torso becomes in abnormal ranges, there appears inflection points and the direction of curvature was changed. 2D Patterns obtained in this research were quantified by curvature, length of the curve and angle of deflection in the reference frame box for the convenience of the actual pattern making process. It was also possible to find that the shape of patterns of abnormal body resulted in a quite interesting change in the curves of 2D pattern, which could be applied to the custom made waist nipper for obese women.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.652-659
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• 2008

This study was designed to testify the possibility and devise the method to manipulate the 3D body scan data to produce rounded-belt pattern adaptable to hip-type variation of women in their 20's. The results of this research were as follows : Firstly, based on drop-value distribution of hip and waist girth, 151 subjects were classified into three hip-types; Type 1 (15.23%) was 'cylinder type', showing lowest drop-value, Type 2 (69.54%) was 'average type' and Type3 (15.23%) was 'hourglass type' showing highest drop-value. Secondly, using CAD program, design lines for round shape belt were set on the surface of 3D scan data of representative subject of each type. And divided 3D surfaces were flattened onto the plane by the internal tools of CAD program. The measure, 'lifting value of round belt pattern', implying the level of curve ratio of pattern was higher in back than front. This result might be linked to the fact that the hip part is more protruded than the abdomen part. And the measures also showed highest values in Type 3(hourglass type) and lowest in Type 1(cylinder type), meaning that the pattern of Type 3 showed more rounded shape than that of Type 1. This finding implied that round belt for body type having high drop-value should be shaped more curved. Thirdly, difference ratios of outline length and area between 3D curves(body surface) and 2D plane(pattern) were 4.5% and 1.3%, respectively. This result demonstrated and solidified the feasibility of designing digital garment pattern from 3D body scan data.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.399-403
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• 2004

Education of clothing and textiles in the university is various according to the purposes. Among that clothing construction and practice is what is needed the most in understanding the process of apparel producing, and is the basic subject of areas from apparel designs to quality management. Producing apparel starts from planning the bodice pattern according to the human body shape. Basic bodice pattern should be highly practical so that production of all items of apparel patterns can be possible. Also, a basic bodice pattern needs to be planned in the way that even beginners can use it by classifying sizes according to each body measurements. Thus in this study. bodice patterns will be produced in way of draping method subjecting university students in early 20s. standardized and classified sizes will be calculated from it and bodice pattern made by studied flat pattern method will be examined and compared so that finally suitability will be compared. As a result of examining and comparing bodice patterns made by draping method and studied flat pattern method on the model of the human body produced by plaster method, sizes were classified into 5 levels. As a result of evaluation of creation. satisfying consequence from various body shape was acquired and it is expected of the beginners who are stating from clothing construction and practice to be educated by using the result of this study.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.116-129
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to research on changes of body surface according to golf movements in designs of golf slacks pattern and reflect it to designs of golf slacks pattern to enhance adaptability. For the first stage of this study, length of body surface was analyzed by using 3D body shape. In second stage, analysis of wearing test of golf slacks is performed to extract major pattern design factor of golf slacks and then research patterns were designed. In third stage, 4 differently designed 1st, 2nd slacks were used for analysis of 3D Clothing air volume. The results of this research is as follow. The variation rate of body surface length according to golf swing posture resulted the longest on back swing posture and follow through posture. Waist circumference-omphalion, thigh and ankle circumference increased more than 10% of body surface during golf swing. Front waist circumference-omphalion, right waist to hip length, left waist to hip length and right back center length were decreased more than 10%. As a result of analysis on measurements of 1st slacks pattern design, waist front center getting in values, waist front center going down value, front hip width, and front crotch extension had similar industrial pattern design. Back center line angle, back crotch extension, and knee center point~back waist center point had significant differences. The designs and ease proposed for golf slacks pattern in this study are waist circumference 75.5 cm(1.8 cm, 2.38%), hip circumference 95 cm(2 cm, 2.11%), crotch length(front: -0.8 cm, -1.25%; rear: -1.8 cm, -2.83%), slacks length 96c m, gradient of C.B.L $10^{\circ}$, crotch extension (back 9.2~10.4 cm, front 3.2 cm).

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.793-805
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• 2023

This study analyzes the body shapes of lower-body obese female adolescents and proposes a slacks pattern suitable for their body type. Lower-body obesity is a prevalent type of teenage obesity, and our proposals aim to improve consumer satisfaction in ready-to-wear clothes across this demographic. We first observe characteristics of obese lower bodies, noting significantly above-average thigh and hip circumference. These figures indicate a high degree of curvature in obese lower bodies, along with a large drop value. Leveraging this data, we develop a novel slacks pattern using 3D avatars in a virtual simulation system. The formulas for the main areas of the pattern are as follows: front waist girth W/4+0.75cm+0.5cm, back waist girth W/4+0.5cm-0.5cm, front hip girth H/4+1.25cm-0.5cm, back hip girth H/4+2cm+0.5cm, front crotch extension H/16+0.5cm, back crotch extension H/8+1cm. Results from appearance evaluations show that this pattern minimizes strain rate on the waist and hips, and its average score is significantly higher than that of an alternative pattern that was also evaluated. The minimized strain rate and high average score indicate that our pattern assigns a sufficient amount of space to the appropriate areas. Based on these results, we expect our research to inform slacks pattern development and production for obese consumers of all types.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.87-95
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to survey toddlers' apparel brands in Korea for operation of pattern work rooms, pattern sizes and uses of bodies and measurements, and thereby, provide for some basic data useful to development of toddlers' apparel prototypes and production of bodies. For this study, 13 domestic brands were surveyed. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; As a result of surveying the pattern work rooms, it was found that 53.8% of the sample brands employed a director of pattern work room, while 38.5% of them did not employed any pattern director. 7.7% of the sample brands employed two pattern directors. Such findings suggests that pattern works for toddlers' apparels are neither specialized nor differentiated as for adults' apparels, and therefore, that apparel production is not efficient. In view of the body profiles, only six brands possessed some or other bodies produced in Japan. The average breast size of No. 3 body was found 51.7cm, waist 48.4cm and hip size was 53.7cm. According to National Standard Body Size Survey Report, average breast size of three-year-old toddlers is 51.2cm, The average waist size is 49.5cm, and the hip size is 52.6cm. All in all, our toddlers' sizes are slightly different from Japanese toddlers', and so, it is deemed necessary to produce the bodies for our toddlers' apparels. As a consequence of surveying the measurements used for pattern production, it was found that five brands of the sample brands were using some or other 'body measurements', and another five brands were body measurements and apparel ones in parallel. All the brands sampled were found using some or other 'apparel measurements'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.7
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• pp.147-165
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• 2001

The objective of this study was to develop the Jeogori Pattern for 9 to 10 year-old boys To determine the measurement items for the Jeogori Pattern making, applied factor analysis, correlation analysis and regression analysis to the 37 measurement items of the 9 to 10 year-old boys classified as a standard somatotype. To understand the shape and variation of the body surface, analyzed the replica of the upper body surface that was obtained by the method of using surgical tape. Be based on the results of the above studies, designed the Jeogori Pattern. The designed pattern was evaluated by the sensory test. The drafting methods of Jeogori Pattern obtained are as follows. $\circled1$ The measurement items are Bust Girth, Center Back Waist Length, Neck Width, and Hwajang Length. $\circled2$ Jeogori Length Center Back Waist Length$\times$4/3 $\circled3$ Front Body Girth(1/2) : B/2 + 1.5cm Back Body Girth(1/2) : B/2 + 3.5cm $\circled4$ Jin-Dong : B/4 + 3cm $\circled5$ Back Godae Width(1/2) : Neck Width/2 + 1.7cm Front Godae Width(l/2) : Back Godae Width(1/2) - 2cm $\circled6$Back Godae Point is 1.5cm higher than shoulder line, and Front Godae Point is 1.5cm lower than shoulder line. $\circled7$ Back Godae Depth: 1.2cm + 1.5cm = 2.7cm The Jeogori Pattern designed by the above method Is as (fig. 8) The results of the sensory test of the new pattern are as fellows. Except for 2 items, every mark of 24 test items has over 5.0 point and a total average mark is 5.25 point. Witch is a good mark. Therefore the new pattern is valid. Especially, the parts of Git, sleeves and back face have a high mark, so the appearances of those parts are excellent.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.116-137
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to develop jacket patterns that could fit well for women in their 20s with turtle neck syndrome body shape and to present a pattern drafting method. As a research method, an educational pattern was chosen through a preliminary experiment. Fit problems of the educational pattern were derived by wearing it on a virtual model with a turtle neck syndrome body type for each neck angle. Based on the three types of experimental patterns developed by supplementing these problems, a development pattern drafting method was developed for each neck angle. Three development patterns were compared and evaluated with the educational pattern using 3D virtual fitting. Fit problems of the educational pattern included: 1) insufficient ease amounts for hip, hem, bicep, elbow, and sleeve hem circumference; 2) horizontal items could not be leveled due to insufficient back length; 3) the shoulder line went backwards; and 4) the front center line did not form a vertical line. To solve these problems, an experimental pattern was developed by increasing the insufficient ease amount, increasing the insufficient back length, and correcting the position of the shoulder line. Measurements that differed in the pattern drafting method of the three types of development patterns by neck angle were positions of back center line and back neck point, front length, and front neck width. Through appearance evaluation of the development pattern and educational pattern by neck angle, the development pattern was highly evaluated, indicating that problems of the educational pattern were improved.