• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.42 no.6
• /
• pp.1002-1015
• /
• 2018

In this study, we analyzed the results of virtual clothing simulation according to the difference in the lateral neck point as well as the front and back shoulder inclination angles of the bodice foundation. Lim's (2016) (S) and Lee's (1999) method (L) were selected as the different setting for the lateral neck point. S1, S2, L1 and L2 were developed by changing the shoulder inclination angles. The SND and LND were developed by removing the darts in the S and L, respectively; in addition, the SND1, SND2, LND1, and LND2 were developed with different shoulder inclination angles. The results of S and L were similar with only slight differences observed in the armhole shape. However, the results of SND and LND were very different. The patterns of the S series were similar to each other, but the patterns of the L series were different. In addition, the patterns of the SND and LND series could not find a similar trend.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.20 no.2
• /
• pp.73-84
• /
• 1982

The purpose of this study was to develop a basic bodice pattern and establish standards regrading to the size and grading of Korean misses' measurements in order to provide modern data for the ready-to-wear garment industry. 222 girls, aged from 18 to 27, were measured on 19 items of their structure. Mean, standard deviation, coefficient of variance, maximum, minimum, range and correlation coefficient between each items were analized. The analysis revealed the following significant results. The fundamental difference data of the bodice pattern and grading measurements between the year of 1975 and 1981 were as follow. (1) The measurements of bust and center back were used as a foundation to establish a standard size and grading. (2) Ranges of the bust circumference measurements were increased. Thus the sizes ere classfied into 5 groups. (3) The ease of bust circumference was increased due to the increasement of shoulder width. (4) The increase of the upper arm resulted to lower the bust line. (5) The shoulder slopes were higher than 1975. Therefore, the basic measurements of the shoulder slopes were reduced. (6) In spite of the front neck measurements were not changed, the back measurements were requied to increase. (7) the center front length became much shorter in the contrast with the increase of the center back length.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.23 no.4
• /
• pp.595-603
• /
• 2015

The influence of Japonism, which is the post-mid-$19^{th}$ century phenomenon of appreciating and preferring the Japanese style that manifested all across Western art, started to grow as a result of the active open-door policy of Japan at this time. As all areas of Japanese arts and culture, such as paintings, sculptures and theater plays, influenced Europe and America, this influence developed into a cultural phenomenon that was reflected even in fashion. The characteristic elements of the kimono first expanded from Paris and showed a similar silhouette to that of the traditional kimono in the early $20^{th}$ century, but towards the middle and the end of the century, kimono sleeves that were connected as one piece without a connecting seam line between the sleeve and bodice started to appear. The foundation of this research focuses on the design characteristics of kimono sleeves that can be seen in $20^{th}$-century fashion, and five varying kimono sleeve jackets and coats based on these formative characteristics were designed. Each design had a gusset design added, which improved the external and mobility problems inherent in kimono sleeve patterns, while at the same time serving as a proposal for new design element applications. Additionally, through various changes to and attempts at designs using the kimono sleeve as a limiting factor, new design possibilities were explored.