• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권5호
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• pp.727-743
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• 2018

In this study, we used the 3D simulation program to create bodice patterns for adolescents boy students and analyze the fitting and air gap through 3D simulation. The purpose of this study was to select the bodice pattern method that best suited the body shapes of the adolescents male students. The subjects of this study were the French E pattern, Japanese N pattern, and Korean industrial L and J patterns. The applied size was the sixth Korean human body size survey data of 2010 Korea. The age range of the subjects was 13-18 years. DC Suite Program Ver. 5.1 was used, and SPSS 23.0 program was used for data analysis. As a result of comparing the shapes of the bodice patterns in the 3D simulation program, the E pattern had two waist darts on the front and one shoulder dart and one waist dart on the back, and the J and L patterns only had one dart on the back. The N pattern had no darts on either the front or back. As a result of examining the appearance evaluation of the pattern, air gap, color distribution, and clothing cross-section, the E pattern was evaluated as the closest to the body, and the N pattern was evaluated as the pattern with the largest allowance. The J pattern was evaluated as the best fit for body shape of the male adolescents. However, it is necessary to develop a pattern system by adding extra ease in setting the center front length.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.347-353
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the appropriate surplus of clothing for a suitable basic bodice pattern of Male Sports Athletes by using the 3D virtual twin and virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; 1. By using 3D virtual twin and garment simulation, new bodice pattern considered male sports athletes was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; surplus of chest girth=9, surplus of back length=1, armhole depth=back length/4+13, half back width=chest girth/5+2.5, front chest width=chest girth/5+3. 2. Wearing test by 3D virtual garment simulation system was useful to evaluate wearing outline, surplus of clothes and garment space. Also it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new bodice pattern is appropriate for the male sports athletes. New bodice pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length of chest and waist. Virtual models production through 3D body scan data, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to prototypic design method so as to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D Virtual Garment Simulation System with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D Pattern Production Program development.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.403-415
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• 2012

This study did a comparative analysis on the patterns of several male bodice slopers, followed by evaluating the appearance through a virtual garment simulation, which used a three-dimensional virtual garment system. Through this process, this study attempted to comparatively analyze the suitability of the garment or each sloper according to body parts. The analysis of the drawing formulas of bodices slopers had the following results. With a standard chest size, all six slopers had a 1:4 ratio for a front and back chest size; 1:5 or 1:6 for a front and back breast size 1:5 or 1:4 for a neck base circumference; and 1:20 or 1:12 for the chest size. When comparing the anthropometric figures and the actual measurements of each body part for the bodice slopers, the actual measurements secured extra amounts in the drawing process. The evaluation results for appearance of the six men's bodice slopers showed that the slopers used by companies (E and F) had top scores followed by the slopers made for (C and D), while the sloper for education (A) received the lowest scores. Regarding the results of the variance analysis verifying the significant difference between the slopers, twenty-five items had significant differences with the exception of four items on the front side and one item on the backside.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.468-479
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• 2019

This study used a three-dimensional-analysis method to quantitatively analyze the change of clothing appearance according to a gusset added to bodice and sleeve patterns for men in their twenties. Comparing six different patterns, the study found that patterns P1 and P2 with little gusset did not have a large difference in the strain map, and pattern P6 had no gusset in the motion of raising the arm $28^{\circ}$ to the side (M1). When the arm was raised $45^{\circ}$ to the side (M2), the P1 pattern had the smallest deformation, and only the P5 pattern had a large deformation from the neck to the armhole area. In contrast, except for in the P3 pattern, large wrinkles formed in the front and back when the arm was raised above $158^{\circ}$ (M3) from the side of the waist to the armpit. In addition, P3 had the smallest change in the hem of the bodice and sleeves. However, the appearance of P2, P3, and P5 was excellent when the arm was moved forward (M4), and the P2 and P5 patterns were the smallest at the bodice and sleeve hem. The P6 pattern showed the least fitness in terms of function. In the case of raising the arm, there was a strong correlation between gusset size and motion function, but when the motion of the arm changed, the motion function did not improved just by changing the ease size.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.157-164
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze bust point information presented in literature and the 8th Korean Anthropometric Survey (Size Korea 2021) as a basis for pattern making for Korean adult women. Therefore, the the bust point position was analyzed through the length from the side neckline to the bust point and the horizontal length from the bust point to the chest. The results are as follows. First, Size Korea's population shows an increase in bust circumference and Side Neck Point to Bust Point with age, with the largest Bust-Point Breadth in the 30s, followed by the 20s, 40s, 60s, and 50s. Second, the Bust-Point Breadth in the female Basic Bodice pattern of Kang Soon-hee, and Oh Sun-hee, which were created from the bust circumference measurements of Size Korea's population, was wider than the measurements, and the difference was verified as a highly significant. Third, in the female Basic Bodice pattern of Kang Soon-hee, and Oh Sun-hee created with the bust circumference dimensions of Size Korea's population, the length of Neck Point to Bust Point was shorter than the measured value, and the difference was highly significant. Fourth, the Bust-Point Breadth and Neck Point to Bust Point in the female Basic Bodice pattern of Kang Soon-hee, and Oh Sun-hee, which were created with the bust circumference of the population of Size Korea by age, were analyzed in different age groups and showed significant differences from the measurements of Size Korea.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.107-121
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• 1981

The objective of this study is to establish a standard size for clothing construction and to develop a basic bodice pattern for Misses. 1. Seven kinds of pattern generally used in Korea were collected and compared in the aspect of items of necessary measurements and application of measurements to pattern drawing. 2. 209 girls aged 17 to 25 were measured on 22 items. The measurements were analyzed by calculation of means, standard deviations, co-variance, range, maximum, minimum, and correlation co-efficient between each item. the data were classified into four size groups according to bust size. Correlation co-efficient between each item were as follows: 1) Correlation co-efficients of bust to upper bust and waist were very high. 2) Correlation co-efficients of bust to shoulder width, across back and across chest were relatively high (r=.6385, r=.7493, r=.6344, respectively). 3) Bust had little correlation to neck and shoulder slope.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제34권5호
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• pp.249-264
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to investigate automatic manipulating functions of dart of CAD system, and to classify the dart of women's front bodice. The results from this study: 1.3 CAD systems, were compared in automatic manipulating functions of dart. Gerber system & Investronica system were based on the pivot-method of dart manipulating, Yuka system was based on the slash-method. 2. It is classified and made a dart-design chart with using darts, which were as examples related to dart manipulating in text & reference of the pattern design. 3. In case of education of dart manipulation, the classified dart-design chart provides variations of a basic pattern through dart manipulation.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.600-613
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to provide Torso pattern for Korean middle-aged women using 3D human body scan data. 155 women in their 40's or 50's were measured by Martin's anthropometry. Merging the data of 914 middle aged women provided by Korean agency for technology and standards, total of 1,069 subjects' data were analyzed. For data analysis, ANOVA, factor analysis and cluster analysis were done using SPSS PC+. And representative subject of each cluster was selected and they participated in 3D scanning and Torso pattern suggested for middle-aged women Torso pattern which investing the amount of ease according to each group for diffuse front interscye 30%, armscye circumference 30%, back interscye 40% using 3D human body scan data. The results of this study are as follows. Firstly, as a result of the factor analysis, the first factor was 'obesity index of body', The second factor was 'verticality size of body', The third factor was 'verticality length of upper bodice', The fourth factor was 'drop value to represent silhouette', and the fifth factor was 'physique of upper bodice'. And, middle-aged women type were classified 3 types according to the cluster analysis. Type 1(Y-type) was the long upper Torso with wide shoulder. Type 2(H-type) was flat-body type with comparatively thin upper bodice and thin lower bodice. And type 3(A-type) was the obese type with comparatively thin upper bodice and fat lower bodice. Secondly, using CAD program, point filtering was performed and approximated surface model was made. It used that generated surface smoothing corrected for abnormally extruded points and scattered points based on the curvature information. And 3D surfaces were flatted onto the plane by the internal tools of CAD program. Difference ratios of outline length and area between 3D curves and 2D plane were 0.42% and 0.54%, respectively. Third, wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that distinct difference almost every category. The movement functionality test shows that, in all the tests which reveal significant differences, especially, 'comparison pattern A' experienced inconvenience to neck width and neck depth.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.176-183
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• 1997

To develop the bodice pattern of the master size of the established size chart which was suggested in the former studies, the wearing experiment was practiced. According to the result, developed pattern design in this study boys\` bodily characteristics were reflected fully. And especially, New pattern design method was suggested at chest circumference, neck circumference, arm circumference, chest breadth, and center front line. The study results were put into the database in order to apply apparel CAD system, and they could be easily used in standardization work of design pattern.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권6호
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• pp.811-820
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• 2002

The physical responses and subjective sensations of different cleanroom garments were compared in order to discover which cleanroom garment design could minimize pollution of the working environment by dust from the worker, maintain a pleasant microclimate and provide effective thermoregulation. A. Coverall with non-detachable hood, kimono sleeves (front), raglan sleeves (back), raschell net on the bodice B. Coverall with detachable hood, kimono sleeves (front), raglan sleeves (back), raschell net on the bodice C. Separate top with non-detachable hood, kimono sleeves (front), raglan sleeves (back), raschell net on the bodice D. Coverall with non-detachable hood, set-in sleeves, raschell net on the bodice E. Coverall with non-detachable hood, raglan sleeves (back), l00% cotton inner wear (upper body) The results of the experiment were as follows. Because the hood covered the shoulder and the chest areas, the chests temperature of the worker wearing garment E was quite higher than those wearing other garment designs. For fabric that has been coated in order to prevent dust, layered designs should be avoided in order to prevent skin temperature from rising. Compared with layers of underwear, it would be more effective to attach a see-through raschell net which clings to the body. Thermal sensations were also highest in garment E, reinforcing the finding that layered designs should be avoided. Through the experiment, it was found that a new material coverall with a non-detachable hood was effective in minimizing dust, suppressing skin temperature increases, maintaining a superior microclimate and providing pleasant subjective sensations.