• 대한가정학회지
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• 제48권2호
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• pp.85-94
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• 2010

Comparative analysis of marker efficiency in blouse patterns, based on different sleeve designs, was carried out. Sleeve designs used included set-in-sleeve, laglan sleeve, and epaulet sleeve. The two types of epaulet sleeves, A and B, are based on pattern arrangement methods of center back. Cloth and production conditions are the width of cloth, the number of marking pieces, and the direction for marking deployment. A blouse pattern saved to the PAD CAD System was graded with different sizes and arranged for industrial purpose to calculate the marker efficiency in different conditions. The results were as follows. On the whole, the marker efficiency of small pattern sized set-insleeve was higher than laglan and epaulet sleeve designs. It was also established that marker efficiency is dependent on cloth and production conditions. For small number of marking pieces, efficiency was higher in the condition of 110cm cloth widths compared with that condition of 150cm cloth widths. However the efficiency of large number of marking pieces was higher in the condition of 150cm cloth widths.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.117-129
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• 2022

In terms of junior high school girls' growth patterns during early adolescence, unlike childhood when relatively balanced growth patterns are found and high school years in which the normal adult body type is almost reached, junior high school girls display imbalanced and rapid growth. In fact, diverse size changes by body part occur with a significant difference among individuals. Therefore, it has been difficult for junior high school students to select their exact size when buying a school uniform. This study attempted to develop winter blouse and skirt patterns reflecting the latest comfortable and active school uniform trends, using middle school girl avatars of various body shapes. Skirt and blouse pattern-drawing methods and margins differed. Based on such results, research prototypes were prepared. Then, virtual wear prospective drawings, clothing pressure, and appearance were assessed by body shape. Skirts were assessed with 22 factors while blouses were analyzed with 25 factors. Then, correlations between skirts and blouses were analyzed. According to the analysis, the reason why the dart & pleats position and margin were rated low was confirmed. In a virtual wear assessment on skirt patterns by body shape, a significant difference was found in all categories except for position of the hip circumference, margin of the hips, width of the skirt, and appropriateness of waist line position. The virtual wear assessment on the blouse patterns by body shape also revealed a significant difference in all categories but fit and shape pf the back part. In blouses, a significant difference was observed around shoulders and waist in type 1 and around the belly in type 2. On the contrary, for skirts, a significant difference was found around the hips and waists in type 1 and type 2. Therefore, these factors should be considered in making blouses and skirts. The above results suggested that skirt and blouse patterns should vary by body shape. It is anticipated that there should be further studies comparing brand-name school uniforms for high school girls and school uniforms by body shape.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.19-28
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• 2020

This study investigated the annual frequency and clothing type by extracting puff sleeves designs from overseas fashion collections from S/S and F/W 2017 to S/S and F/W 2019. Specifically, it analyzed production characteristics and pattern methods by the type of puff sleeve design, and found the following: In terms of the percentage of puff sleeves by season, S/S 2019 was the highest. Since Newtro, with a 1990s sensitivity, was the mainstream trend during the S/S 2019, power puff sleeves, a signature of the Newtro style, accounted for the greatest portion of this design feature. In terms of the type of clothes with puff sleeves, 'dress' (54.3%) was the highest, followed by 'shirts/blouse' (27.5%), 'jacket/coat' (12.5%), and 'padded coat/jacket' (5.7%). Specifically, puff sleeve patterns were found mostly in the 'dress' category, more than 47% every season, while the figures were more than 23%, 9.3%, and 2.6% in 'shirts/blouse', 'jacket/coat' and 'padded coat/jacket', respectively. In other words, puff sleeve designs were more common in 'dress' or 'shirts/blouse' than in a 'padded coat/jacket'. In general, the shoulder length is reduced to prevent the shoulders from looking broader because of puffs. In contrast, recent puff-sleeve styles differ from those introduced by modern fashion designers in that they have drop shoulders with puffs attached. Furthermore, as constructive and over-exaggerated sleeve patterns appeared, puffs were applied to diverse sleeve styles including mutton leg and Mameluke styles. The analysis results of this study will contribute to the development of the fashion industry through small quantity batch production pursuing unique styles and serve as the basis for further studies on the configuration methods of puff sleeves. This study will be used in various ways, including as educational material on sleeve patterns. Through the analysis of sleeve patterns, this study tries to provide basic data for planning the design of puff sleeves and helping to diversify the ladies' apparel market in the future.

• 복식
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• 제19권
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• pp.105-125
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• 1992

The research, aiming an automatic pattern design of Korean Costume by utilizing CAD system, tried Grading, Seaming and Marking with a theme of girl's color-strip blouse & skirt. The content & conclusion of the research can be outlined as follows; 1) As we reviewed the current situation of Korean costume which becomes more likely celebrational or festival costume, while the demand of it is getting increase, it's being dealt mostly as ready-made dresses with different qualities & designs. Especially childrens ready-made ones were highly demanded to be picked up as the theme. 2) For the original drawing of children's color-strip blouse & skirt, Kyung-Ja Park's drawing method was used here, and for the substitute of particular body parts absolute size, Joo-Won Lee's standard size chart from a size-study by ages. 3) To work with CAD system we had input master pattern, drawn for age 5 as basic size, then graded six step-sizes for 1-11 years old. For add-subtract of particular body parts size, we graded through computing the standard variation among items to get the pattern developed into ready-made standard size, we can make precise plotting by grading wanted size very rapidly if we correct the rule of changed items different from standard size to make utilization possible enough with easy order method of ready-made Korean Dress. 4) We produced Marker after attaching a margin to seam accordingly by parts for each pattern using P/D/S to mark, In mass gament-cutting, the loss of time and material can minimized. In this research the apparel CAD system which has been utilized and only be western fashion industry was introduced for the design of ready-made Korean costume and utilized it in Grading, Marking which are critical steps to improve productivity and have reported the result in the research. Thus we expect that less cost, improved productivity and better quality with minimized loss of material from marking as well as from prompt and precise size-drawing. Furthermore the utilization of CAD system is considered as an effective one in terms of the research & the development to remove effective one in terms of the research & the development to remove irrational elements in the design and production process of Korean costume as well as in terms of the study of Korean Costume development through creative works of Korean Costume.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.169-180
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• 1992

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effects of type of clothing microclimate and exercise condition on ventilation. The experimental system employed a trace gas technique of the previous research. Clothing microclimate volume measurement was based on the substitution water technique for inter-clothing air volume. The experimental variables were tested at four levels of clothing microclimate spacing, microclimate shape of the previous research and two levels of exercise conditions. 2, 4, 6 cm ease were added to B/2+4 of basic blouse pattern for the microclimate spacing variable. Each combination of three variables were tested in triplicate. Analysis of variance of experimental variables on vetilation, such as oxygen exchange rate, half time of first order model was conducted. Oxygen exchange rate and half time of first order model are affected by the shape of microclimate air and exercise condition.

• 한국가정과교육학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.1-15
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• 1992

The aim of the research is to develop a PC based courseware which is programed to drafts clothing patterns. The pattern making are numerically formulized. The of the program were as follows；1. Menu and instructions are displayed in Korean Language. 2. Easy step-by-step instructions explaining how to draw basic pattern and design pattern. 3. Low cost personal computer and general purpose printer are used. The source program was written in C-language and compiled using Turbop C. The Bezier spline is used to draw curves of pattern and to display Korean characters and pattern on same screen simultaneoulsy, Korean characters are drawn graphically. The low cost IBM Personal Computer or compatibles with Hercules Graphic Card is required to run this grogram.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권5호
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• pp.573-582
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• 2012

This work is to develop a T-shirt by adopting a unique cloud pattern (a good auspicious sign as design material) from traditional native Korean patterns for application to various cultural products and textile design cloth patterns; subsequently, a T-shirt design was processed based on this. As a research method, computer design programs Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3 were used along with a literature examination as part of motive for design development and pattern realization. Three basic motives were selected as a new formative image in this work, utilizing graphical elements such as abridgement and simplicity of pattern, where flower-shaped cloud pattern, uprising cloud pattern, and 卍-shaped or swastika-shaped pattern of traditional cloud patterns were selected. Each motive diverged into two motives via the shape transformation and the application of different colors. The newly developed basic motive was further processed into a combination of one-time repeat pattern, stripe pattern, and application pattern with mixed cloud motives (that were previously developed), which altogether turned out to be 36 pieces of textile design. In addition, with newly developed motive designs and textile designs, a total of 12 shirt designs for 4 pieces were developed for these three each. The shirt design was developed into a shirt blouse, sleeveless T-shirt, half-sleeve T-shirt, and sports T-shirt among others in order to fit various uses and purposes.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.391-406
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• 1993

The purpose of this study was to utilize of apparel CAD System by the classification of the basic pattern block in pattern making process. Gerber AM-300 CAD System was used for this study. The results form this study were as follows; 1. New shirts block were developed. 2. The sensory test was applied to evaluate the new shirts block for women by comparing it with Japanese Bunka shirts blouse pattern making method. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 20 items on the questionnaire, the 19 items showed significant difference(${\alpha}{\leq}0.01$)between the two, with the new shirts block having higher scores. 3. A basic pattern block was selected by the design sketch. 4. P/D/S were enabled to be constructed directly from a block pattern. The drawing, deletion. duplication, and movement of all points and lines in the pattern might be made freely, and the split, pivot, and movement of the pattern, and the attachment of two patterns were possible. 5. Automatic grading of finished pattern have been developed by creation and modification of grading rules of block pattern.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.485-500
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to develop the formal wear for social activity of dwarf. Second investigation for choices of designs based upon data from the first questionnaire investigation, led us to make proposals for design, pattern production, garment-cutting and dressmaking. The effect of wearing the made-up garments was carefully evaluated in order to establish principles for the development of clothes for dwarf. Conclusion is as follow. Dwarf felt uneasy in conventional street dress. When buying clothes their most important criteria was design wanted clothes that would help them to look taller. Analysis of design preference to complement perceived physical weak points revealed: 'a pink ensemble' comprising of a high-waist, one-piece dress, and a black slacks suit comprising of a striped, single-breasted, tailored jacket, and straight-type slacks and blouse. It was found that a bolero jacket and a high-waist, ankle-length, one-piece dress helped create an optical illusion of increased height, for both the wearer and an observer. A pastel ton-pink, one-piece also created this effect on small bodily types, as well as offering a silky, mellow attractiveness. A suit of a striped, single-breasted tailored jacket, and straight-type slacks and blouse, created the two fold illusion of disguising hip imbalance with the length of the jacket and drawing an onlooker\`s gaze to the wearer\`s face through the tailored collar, they also looked taller due to the stripes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제27권6호
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• pp.599-614
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• 2019

The aim of this study to provide basic reference data for the development of video contents used in pattern drafting education and to explore the possibility of utilizing YouTube videos in such education. Subject videos were selected using the number of views. A total of 596 videos and 28 channels were analyzed for the period July to September 2019 and the results are as follows. With regard to content, there were 27 pattern drafting items, the majority being dress, pants, skirt, blouse and sleeve drafting, although high-level content such as cowl, bustier, corset patterns were also available. Therefore, there is a high likelihood that YouTube videos could be used as educational material, especially as supplementary references to provide specific examples and easy explanations for difficult concepts or method, for students majoring in this field. However, as most videos currently focus on a few items, expanding video content to features a wider variety of clothing items at different levels is necessary. With regard to video length, it mostly ranged from 10 to 15 minutes. It is not advisable to create lengthy lecture-style videos expounding on different principles or variations in pattern drafting when developing educational video material.