• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1334-1346
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• 2011

This study focused on the beoseon, traditional Korean socks that are a fashion item showcasing the beauty of the round hanbok shape. The study utilized the beoseon as an influential design motif and suggested 24 cultural fashion items to which the beoseon can be applied, including neckties, scarves, and T-shirts. For the purposes of this study, Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3 were used for the motif design as well as the literature review on traditional beoseon socks. For the basic design motif, two basic forms were taken from the collection of the National Folk Museum of Korea. The key point of the motif development is that it maintains the basic shape of the beoseon but highlights the attractiveness of the Korean image by using repetition, rotation, symmetry and overlap into a new image pattern so that modern and chic images were taken into consideration for each cultural product. For the necktie, the mixed or repeated patterns for each motif were used as is. Alternatively, an oblique line pattern was adopted to express a stable and stylish image. For the T-shirt, a round-neck sleeveless type was designed. T-shirts were unified in the white color to highlight the image from the pattern. For the scarf, two shapes were displayed, square and rectangle. Through mixture of two repeated variation unit patterns for each motif, a splendid and stylish image was revealed along with various layouts.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.860-876
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• 2013

The pattern cases for Korean traditional socks are named "beoseonbongip" which means a pouch to keep patterns for making "beoseon". "Beoseon" is Korean traditional socks. This study is to identify characteristics of the pattern cases and to develop cultural products based on the unique characteristics of the pattern cases. One hundred fifty one photos of "beosonbongip" were collected and quantitatively and qualitatively analyzed. Seventy percent of them were made between Joseon Dynasty and 1960s. As a result, most of the collected pattern cases are rectangular and square shapes, red color, and silk fabrics, and sizes of them are from 9cm to 15cm. A few pattern cases with different sizes and colors were also observed. Most pattern cases were made by fixing two among four triangle pieces which made by folding four tips of a rectangular or square cloth and then puting a not or a loop on the remaining triangle pieces in order to open and close the pattern cases. In a small number of the pattern cases, three of the four pieces were fixed and a button, a bead, a broach, or two nots or two loops were put on the other piece for opening and closing. Products such as apparels, bags, pouches, frames, and key holders were made using "beoseonbongip" form and construction method. This shows that "beoseonbongip" is a useful motive for creative product development.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.915-929
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• 2000

As a result of research, the character of the general dress-costumes from the late 17th century to the early 18th century in Genre Paintings of DuSeo Yun and YoungSeok Cho is as follows. Firstly young women wore braided hair at the back of head and married women wore hair in the style of Unjeun-mori with Gache. The length of Jeogori (Korean traditional jacket) covered waistor shortened to waist length. The width of Jeongori was suitable, because side-seam line was straight or oblique as it comes into inner line. The width of Git was enough and Mokpan-git (shape of board) and Kal-kit (shape of knife) appeared, and sometimes used other color fabric. Sleeve was narrow and ostly folded up. Chima (Korean traditional skirt) used darker color fabric than Jeogori and the width of Chima was narrow and its length was short. Sokbaji (Korean traditional underpants) shown below were narrow and its end narrower. They were barefoot or they wore Hye (Korean traditional shoes) after putting on Beoseon (Korean traditional socks). Secondly general man's hair tie a topknot (sangtu) and put on headdres, 'Bang-lip', 'Mang-geon', hairband, 'Tang-geon' on head. The length of Jeogori became shorter from the line which covered hip to the line which covered waist. The width of Jeogori was suitable and sometimes it had a slit of side-seam line. The width of Git (neckand) was wide and the length of Git was long. 'Kal-git'appeared and it used other color fabric. The shape of sleeve was straight and narrow. They folded up their sleeves. They folded up their sleeves. They folded up their slack that look like 'Jam-bang-i'and the width of slacks was not suitable, and it was narrow. Baji (Korean traditional pants) were with or without knot, worn 'Hangjeon'(ankle band). They were barefoot and wore 'Hye'or 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Thirdly a person of high birth or a low-ranked official put 'Yu-geon', 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-du', 'Bok-geon', 'Whi-hang'on their head on a topknot. They wore 'Po (Shim-ui, Jick-ryeong'Jung-chi-mak, Do-po, etc)'on Baji and Jeogori. 'Po'was long and wide, it knot with 'Se-jo-dae'(string belt) or 'Po-baek-dae'(band belt). It had a slit of sideline and 'Mu'which had or had not or which were hard to confirm. The shape of sleeve was straight or very wide and its length was long. The width of Baji was wide and knotted with 'Hangjeon'and wore'Beoseon'and 'Hye'. Fourthly child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line and its width was wide. It had a 'Jeogori'which had s slit of sideline. The shape of sleeve was 'Tong-su'(straight), and the length of sleeve was diverse. They put 'Baeja'on 'Jeogori'. The width of Baji was not wide. They wore them straight without or with knot, 'Hangjeon'. They were barefoot or put on 'Jipsin'.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.859-879
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• 2004

As a result of research, the characteristics of the general costumes from the king Young-Cho period to the king Jung-Cho period in Genre Paintings of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang follows. First, the typical man wore his hair in a topknot(sangtu), and put on 'Bung-gu-ji', 'Lip', or a scarf on his head. The length of the 'Jeogori'(Korean traditional jacket) was long enough to cover the waist. Dress for work had side slits, and had half length sleeve Jeogori, and short pants looked like 'Jam-bang-i'. They went barefoot and wore 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Dress for outdoor was 'Po' that knot at front of chest by band. 'Baji'(slacks) were with knot below knee, worn 'Hang-jun'(ankle band) and the width of slacks was suitable. They were 'Beoseon'(Korean traditional socks) and shoes. Second those in the upperc1ass and those in the military put on 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Sa-bang-gan', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-geon' on their head on a topknot. Most of them wore 'So-chang-i', 'Jung-chi-mag' or 'Do-po'. The length of Jeogori covered the waist or the hip and were tied with 'Go-rum'(ribbon). Baji was tied with Hang-jun and 'Dae-nim'. The waist of the slacks were tied with a dark colored waist-band and folded down their waist of slacks. They wore white color Beoseon and 'Hye' or dark color leather shoes. They wore 'Sup'(assistant of arm) for bow. It showed the lifestyle of the 18C with fan, 'Be-ru', 'Mug', 'Yun-jug', teacup, pot, etc. Third, child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line, Git of Jeogori was 'Dunggurai-Kit'(shape of round) and other style Jeogori, which reached the hip line, had side-slit. Baji was tied with Dae-nim, and the width of the slacks is suitable. They hang 'Yum-nang'(Pocket). Final, most women worked outdoors wearing their hair in a high twisted style, or covered it with scarf. They wore Jeogori and 'Chima'(Korean traditional skirts), Bagi. They folded up the sleeves of the Jeogori. And they folded the 'Jambang-i-styled' pants to just above the knees, fastening at the waist. When they wore skirts, they also wore underpants under the skirt that went down to the knees. Most of them went barefoot and wore straw shoes, Jipsin. Through genre paintings, we can understand the ways and forms of our ancestor's clothing. And with our understanding, interest, and passion, we can be familiar with Hanbok in our daily life by succeeding and creating its peculiar style. And then we can promote the globalization of Hanbok.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.27
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• pp.39-56
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• 2022

The purpose of this project was to improve the stability of a pair of leather socks for use on snowy days in the collection of the National Museum of Korea (Namsan1567) by conducting conservation treatment and restoring the socks to their original form for use in research and exhibition. Leather socks are referred to in ancient documents with names combining the word "mal" for socks with a term indicating their material (e.g., pimal, meaning leather socks; nokpimal, meaning deer leather socks; jangpimal, meaning roe deer leather socks, or lipimal, meaning racoon dog leather socks) and are mentioned mostly in connection with Jeju Island. Related documents include the Seungjeongwon ilgi (Daily Record of the Grand Secretariat), Injaeilnok (Diary of Injae Jo Geukseon), and Hamel's Journal and a Description of the Kingdom of Joseon. Extant examples of ancient leather socks display the same form as beoseon (traditional Korean socks) and are made of either leather or a combination of leather and fabric. It is likely that such leather socks were worn on Jeju Island to protect the feet from the cold. A condition survey of the leather socks was first conducted to establish a plan for their conservation treatment. Since the socks were in rather poor condition, it was decided to identify their original form through an investigation of relics and pertinent previous studies. The socks were cleaned in consideration of results of the condition survey, and the missing parts around the necks of the socks were reinforced in a reversible manner using counting stitches with cloth dyed to match the original color. Since the bottoms of the socks had lost much of their original form due to deterioration and disintegration in the leather, supports were made and inserted inside the socks to help retain their shape. Through these processes, the structure and characteristics of the socks and the techniques used in their production could be analyzed, their condition was stabilized, and their original form was recovered.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.99-111
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• 2012

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Horniman Museum in London. The Museum holds eighteen items of Korean dresses donated by Mrs. C. de J. Luxmore in 1948 and by Mrs. Bowra in 1953. Male dresses consist of white silk outer robe (durumagi), a pale violet silk waistcoat (jokki), a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), pale yellow silk trousers (baji), a pair of ankle bands (daenim), a cotton waistband (dae), a silk purse (jumeoni), a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja), a pair of rattan wristlets (deungtosi), a top hat (gat) and a skullcap (tanggeon). Female dresses comprise a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), an ivory silk skirt (chima), a light blue silk petticoat (sokchima), two kinds of white cotton trousers (sokbaji and soksokgot), a pair of silk wristlets (tosi) and a pair of padded socks (beoseon). A Korean dress collection of the Horniman Museum shows a set of ordinary dress items worn by a married couple in the 1930s and the 1940s. Of these items, a silk petticoat (sokchima) and a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja) can be highly evaluated as object resources in the history of Korean dress. The petticoat is a rare and valuable example that represents an early type of modern petticoat that has replaced a traditional petticoat (dansokgot). The rattan under-vest has square neckline and two tiny sleeves similar to a Western cap sleeve. This kind of under-vest is a transitional form shown between under-vest similar to the Korean waistcoat (baeja) and one similar to the Western waistcoat (jokki).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.9
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• pp.114-128
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• 2008

The current study aims to classify types of traditional fur Garments in Jeju into Dusik(hat), dress, Jokui(socks) and accessaries, and examine characteristics of them through demonstrative study focusing on collections of museums in Jeju. Dusik is a kind of hat for protection against the cold, and there are badger leather Gamtaes and cow hair Beonggeojis(fur hats). Especially leather gamtae was used to protect against the cold when people hunted roe deers in Mt. Halla. Beonggeoji was producted in the form of felt with fine hair collected coat-shedding of cows and dogs in spring, therefore it was too warm and practical to be damaged from storm or pressure. Fur coat is a general name of dress made of leather without hair. It is a kind of clothes with a hat worn while taking care of horses and cows. Also people wore dog leather topcoats and cow leather topcoats when they hunted in Mt. Halla. As for Jokui, there are leather Beoseon(socks) made of cow leather, leather shoes in the form of straw shoes, and leather Balle embracing the low half of the body warmly. Accessaries include a rectangular cow leather bag for storing an iron piece for making fire. These traditional fur robs in Jeju not only have practicality for protection against the cold, but also symbolized richness by using leathers of badgers, roe deers, etc. that were previous during that times. Also they used partially cut leather for decoration at the edge.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.286-294
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• 2007

Dolbok, the first birthday suit, is a formal suit a person puts on for the first time after birth. It not only a symbolizes of Korean customs or traditions, but also represents transmitted ideas, values and lifestyles of Koreans. In this nation where strong preferences for son prevailed, dolbok for boy was specially important. 1.Styles of weaing Dolbok are classfied into trousers and jeogori, baeja, magoja, durumagi, jeonbok, sagyusam and yongpo styles in accordance with what kind of clothes was finally worn. 2. Accessories of dolbok for boys included dolddi, dol jumeoni, gulre, bokgeon, hogeon and tarae baeseon. 3. Dolbok of trousers and jeogori, baeja or magoja style simply consisted of 2 to 4 units of clothes. It was usually worn by ordinary people, and strongly imaged as common. Dolbok of durumagi or jeonbok style was a combination of 5 to 6 units of clothes and mainly worn by noble and royal families. It was remarkably formal, but quite brilliant. The suit for first birth anniversary which was sagyusam or yongpo was made in accordance with court rules and used by the royal family, It consisted of 7 to 8 units of clothes. Dolbok of sagyusam or yongpo style used invariable, simple patterns and colors, but had strong images of courtesy and dignity. 4. Regarding accessories of dolbok, the long-hanged goreum was a symbol of parental wishes for the $baby^{\circ}{\emptyset}s$ health and longevity and dolddi was joined by dol jumeonisymbolizing the wealth and prosperity of the baby. In addition, hogeon was a hat whose shape was the head of tiger symbolizing wishes for bravery and health and tarae beoseon was childlen's socks that had seams, symbolizing prosperity, on the fore edge. Seon for sagyusam was used as a symbol of preventing diseases or evil spirits to protect the health of the baby.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.766-777
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• 2012

The 13 genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(by Stewart Culin 1858~1929)" were used to study the late $19^{th}$ century's basic costumes and Games style in Korea. The people who appear in the paintings are 26 adult males, 2 minor males, 2 adult females and 3 kisaengs. Typical men wore 'Jeogori' which had various colors and white linings with a reached hip line, and knotted with a 'go-rum' on the right side. They also wore, white colored 'Baji' with colorful sash that were knot below knee or ankle together with 'Hang-jun' or 'Daenim'. They wore 'Beoseon'. Some men wore 'Po' whose colors were blue, green, indigo, white. The general women wore 'Jeogori' in deep green and light pink, indigo, green, red, and they matched with colors for 'Kit' and, 'Go-rum', 'Kut-dong' and its 'Go-rum' was short and narrow. It was so fit and short with narrow sleeve. It had 'Dunggun-kit'(round head collar) with white 'Dong-jung' and so it fit at neck. They wore 'Chi-ma' whose color was red, light green, or light indigo. It contrasted with 'Jeogori'. The width of 'Chi-ma' was big enough. Then white inner slacks came out under the skirt. Traditional Korean games can be classified according to age and gender. Then the games can be further classified into three categories : men's games, women's games, and games for all. The games for adult are an archery practice, hunting, shovel work with a karae, making a bow, drawing Jongkung-chart, Korean chess, playing paduk, and the Korean card game. A swing is a game for women. Games for both men and women are dice play, and domino game. Games for both adult and minor males are sledge, and tightrope walking. Through genre paintings in the $19^{th}$ century, I reached a conclusion that basic costumes are similar to 'Hanbok' at the present time and the method of wearing them has not changed much. It appears that the originality of traditional costumes has been maintained.