• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.91-105
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• 2017

A literature review and survey were conducted regarding the silhouette changes in bell bottom pants and the overall visual evaluation in accordance with the changes. The survey was disseminated from December 2015 to January 2016 to 245 women in their 20s living in Busan. The variables used for the silhouette changes in bell bottom pants were the volume of flare and the flare's starting point, and 20 pairs of terms were selected for visual evaluation. The results of the study are as follows: 1. Visual evaluations according to the volume of flare in bell bottoms indicated that females in their 20s appraised pants with a flare volume of 54 cm close to a straight silhouette and flare volume of 62 cm (recognized clearly as characteristic of bell bottom pants) to be more attractive and sophisticated than pants with flare volumes of 70 cm and 78 cm. 2.Visual evaluations according to the starting point of the flare in bell bottom pants showed that women appraised their legs as looking thinner when the flare started near the thighs. In a vertical visual evaluation, women appraised that their legs looked longer when the flare started near the knees and pants fit tightly around them. 3.The analysis of silhouette factors affecting the visual evaluation of bell bottom pants indicated that the volume of flare has more effect visually than the starting point of the flare.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.73-87
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• 2004

In the designing stage, the HANBOK CHIMA is created using a flat pattern with linear shapes. However, when worn, the skirt creates a fluid and organic silhouette. According to the wearing method(wrapping), HANBOK CHIMA can create various shapes and movements. In comparison to the general skirt, It is more effective in revealing the wearer's sense of beauty. The method of wrapping the skirt from the rear is a suitable way of wearing the garment in accord with the Korean ON-DOL(온돌) culture and it creates mystique eroticism. We can devide the silhouettes according to six different period of time. The silhouette of HANBOK CHIMA is affected by the following elements: length, width, pleats, textures and the usage of underwear. [1. Koguryo (5C∼6C) - The first Tent silhouette. 2. The South Dynasty Silla (7C∼8C) - The second Tent silhouette. 3. Kyoryo dynasty (l4C) - Cylinder silhouette. 4. The first Chosun dynasty (late 14C∼17C) - Bell silhouette and Cylinder silhouette. 5. The second Chosun dynasty (mid 18C∼mid 19C) - Bell silhouette and Barrel silhouette. 6. The third Chosun dynasty (late 19C∼the beginning of 20C) - Tent, Cylinder and Bell silhouette.]

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.6
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• pp.140-149
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• 2013

The study aims to suggest new skirt designs through a modernistic application of the silhouette of Hanbok skirts. It also aims to promote the aesthetic beauty and excellence of Hanbok to the world by using Hanbok skirts that best express the beauty of Korea as motifs, and to promote a pride in Korean culture through a reinterpretation of Hanbok skirts. The study was focused on examining Hanbok skirts from the Three Kingdoms era to the Joseon Dynasty, and the skirts in each era were compared to western silhouettes to suggest design centering on the characteristics of each silhouette. As for the theoretical background, shapes were classified according to waist-grip, the width and length of a skirt, wrinkles and ornamental lines, before being compared to skirt silhouettes of western costume. As a result, it was found that Hanbok skirt silhouettes in the Three Kingdoms era were similar to the A-Line silhouette of western costume, the Empire silhouette of unified Silla, the H-Line silhouette of the Goryeo Dynasty, the Bell-Line silhouette of the Joseon Dynasty and the Bustle Style applied to ceremonial costume in the early Joseon Dynasty. The researcher suggested five skirt designs by applying the above-mentioned five silhouettes, confirming the research premise that Hanbok skirt silhouettes are as diversified as those found in western costume. Designs were suggested for each silhouette, and are expected to lead to the development of designs befitting future trends and concepts through detailed research and development on Hanbok skirt silhouettes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.724-735
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• 2000

The objectives of this study were to identify the dimensional structure of female impression formation based on silhouettes and necklines of wedding dresses, and to analyze the effect of silhouettes, necklines, and perceiver's gender on impression formation. The experimental design was 3$\times$6$\times$2 (silhouettes$\times$necklines$\times$gender) factorial design by 3 independent variables. Samples were 432 males and females. Four factors derived to account for the dimensions of impression formation. These were attractiveness, neatness, feminity, and prettiness. Dome silhouette had a positive effect on impression of attractiveness. Bell silhouette increased the impression of femininity and prettiness. Tubular silhouette had a negative effect on the impressions of attractiveness, femininity, and prettiness. Neckline had a significant effect on impression of attractiveness and negative on prettiness. Sweet-heart neckline has a positive effect on impression of attractiveness and negative on prettiness. Off-shoulder neckline increased the impression of prettiness. Round neckline decreased the impression of attractiveness. On the interaction effect according to the neckline and perceiver's gender, the men perceived high-necklines to be more feminine than did women, while the women perceived off-shoulder necklines to be more feminine than did men. There was interaction effect between silhouette and neckline on prettiness. In dome silhouette, heart-shape neckline was perceived to be prettier than the others, while in bell silhouette, off-shoulder neckline was perceived as prettier than the others.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.1-16
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• 2024

This study aims to investigate the differences in blue jean styles and the visual images associated with them. To achieve this, literature reviews, case studies, and surveys were conducted. The results are as follows. 1) Based on previous studies, it was found that the design elements influencing the style of blue jeans and their visual images include waistline position, silhouette, details, decorations, and color. Additionally, differences in the preferences and visual evaluations of Korean and Chinese individuals regarding the style of blue jeans were confirmed. 2) Skinny blue jeans are typically characterized by a high waistline and a length that reaches the ankles, featuring a snug fit with stretchy fabric. Straight blue jeans, on the other hand, usually have a natural or high waistline and cover the instep, with a straight silhouette descending from the thigh to the hem. Bell-bottom blue jeans are primarily high-waisted and cover the instep with a silhouette forming a bell shape from the knee to the hem. 3) Korean and Chinese women in their 20s evaluated skinny, straight, and bell-bottom styles of blue jeans as having a 'casual' image. However, they also associated bell-bottom style blue jeans with 'unique' and 'attractive' images. Interestingly, Korean women described skinny-style blue jeans as making someone look 'youthful', while Chinese women perceived them as 'sophisticated', 'making the waist look thicker', and 'unassuming'. As for straight-style blue jeans, Korean women saw them as 'well-fitting', while Chinese women described them as 'making one appear taller', 'desirable', and 'free-spirited'.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.21-30
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to recognize the differences of visual evaluation by variations in silhouette of the wide pants. The stimuli are 9 samples: One control group, 3 variations of the width of hem line and 3 variations of the silhouette. The data has been obtained from 57 fashion college students. The data has been analyzed by Factor Analysis, Anova, Scheffe's Test. The results of the study are as follows: The visual evaluation by silhouette of wide pants are composed of 5 factors(i.e., physical characteristics, complexity, attractiveness, originality, and stiffness and softness). Among these factors, the physical characteristic is evaluated to be the most important factor. The straight pants were the most attractive and modern when the width of the hem line was 66cm (1st stage), while the pants were uncomfortable and unwearable when the width of the hem line was 98cm (3rd stage). The bell-bottom pants were evaluated to be the most attractive with the average width of the hem line. When the width of the hem line of the flare pants were too wide, it was uncomfortable and unwearable but had its unique originality. When the width of the hem line was narrow, the visual image changed as the pants' silhouette varied. However, when the width of the hem line was wide, the visual image did not change by silhouette.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.661-680
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine to change in the Chinese women's clothing according to the inflow of Western culture in the first half of the both century As for the research method, both literature and visual data are reviewed. Research results are as follows: The Step of transition in clothing by period followed beginning stage, adopted stage, early developed stage, fully developed stage, and static stage. fully developed stage showed a perfect compromise while being applied to Chinese costume with being introduced a three-dimensional cutting method of western clothing even to the constitution as well as to the appearance. Design elements from western clothing are as follows. The transition of silhouette is box silhouette, trapeze silhouette, shift silhouette, and fitted silhouette. In detail and trimming, tailored, band, convertible, shirts collar and zigzag, scallop, camisole neckline and puff, cap sleeve and flounced, bell shaped cuffs and western button, zipper, etc. are adopted. Finally, the Chinese modern style are formed by accepting and transforming the western clothing based on the traditional Chinese clothing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.147-156
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to analyze the style of wide pants shown in collections from 2008 to 2011 and to extract main expressional words for the development of semantic differential scales of visual images according to the change in silhouette of wide pants. The results of this study are as follows: 1) The wide pants which women wore in the 1970s were similar to men's. The aesthetic values for the wide pants included the social women's requests of the time. On the other hand, new wide pants shown in the current collections have diversified by adding designers' will to express contemporary women's tastes and fashion senses. 2) 742 wide pants shown in collections were composed of 459 straight, 147 bell-bottom and 136 flared pants. The design differs according to changes in the waist position and width of the wide pants. 3) Main expressional words of visual images for wide pants differ greatly depending on the silhouette of wide pants. The visual images are ranked in the order of 'showed that legs are long', 'looked taller', 'neat', 'relaxed', 'retro', 'modern' for straight pants. The words of 'retro', 'countrified', 'legs seemed to be long', 'enough' 'confident' 'looked like thighs that are slim' are ranked for bell-bottom pants. And the words of 'plentiful' 'loose', 'enough', 'retro' 'uncomfortable', 'relaxed', 'countrified' are marked down for flared pants.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.235-247
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• 1999

The influences of Art nouveau and Art Deco are as follow: The first, in the side of silhouette, hourglass style and bell shaped skirt influence on mordern fashion chiefly and S-curve style was mollified. Empire style, hobble style in art deco age are all showed diversely, in these styles especially boyish style give an outstanding trasts to modern fashion. The second, the color of art deco, characterized by pastel in art nouveau's color tone, original color and black and gold was reflected on the textile design and showed diversely in the color fo modern fashion. The third, in the field of textile and pattern, flower and plant which was a motive of art nouveau style, organic curve and geometrical pattern and exotic motive was seperately used with motive in the pattern and design of mordern. Textile of goldish and silver tone, metal stuff, lace embroidery, fur, artifical flower, feather etc. showed up on the many parts of clothing. Like this Art Nouveau and Art style not only had a great effect on the costume but also decorations and formative arts.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.194-206
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• 2016

This study analyzed jackets by Alexander McQueen that have always pleased customers with traditional tailoring via every season's collection. This study categorized and then analyzed jackets by components such as silhouette, jacket length, collar, lapel, sleeve, shoulder line, and closure methods. To achieve the research goal, the study referred to photographs of 501 jackets introduced in signature brand collections by Alexander McQueen between 1996 and 2010. The analysis results on McQueen's jackets with the general components of the clothes indicated that the frequency of traditional tailoring components (such as lapels, tight sleeves, natural shoulder lines, and a button closing method) was higher than the frequency of designs of dramatic, deconstructive patterns examined by previously-conducted research. This shows that Alexander McQueen was cognizant to the responsibilities as a tailor and the basics of tailoring when developing jacket designs. This study also confirmed how McQueen enjoyed adding exaggerated jacket design components by making various use of details that emphasize drastic shapes like the hourglass silhouette, wing collar (that covers the shoulders), peaked lapel collar, kimono sleeve, bell sleeve, crescent shoulder, and pagoda shoulder.