• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.484-497
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• 2016

In order to understand the characteristics of the topography change in front of an impermeable breakwater, a coupled model for a two-way analysis of the existing LES-WASS-2D and newly developed morphodynamic model was suggested. A comparison to existing experimental results revealed that the results computed using the 2-D hydro-morphodynamic model were in good agreement with the experimental results for the wave form, pore water pressure in the seabed, and topographical change in front of a submerged breakwater. It was shown that the two-way model suggested in this study is applicable to a morphological change in the seabed around a submerged breakwater. Then, using the numerical results, the topographical changes in front of an impermeable submerged breakwater were examined in relation to partial standing waves. Moreover, the characteristics of the local scour depths in front of them are also discussed in relation to incident wave conditions, sediment qualities, and submerged breakwater shapes.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.320-333
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• 2019

In this study, a physics-based 3D morphology model for the estimation of an erosion rate of nourished beach is newly proposed. As a hydrodynamic module, IHFOAM toolbox having its roots on the OpenFoam is used. On the other hand, the morphology model comprised a transport equation for suspended sediment, and Exner type equation derived from the viewpoint of sediment budget with the bed load being taken to accounted. In doing so, the incipient motion of sediment is determined based on the Shields Diagram, while the bottom suspended sediment concentration, the bed load transport rate is figured out using the bottom shearing stress directly calculated from the numerically simulated flow field rather than the conventional quadratic law and frictional coefficient. In order to verify the proposed morphology model, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling, breaking over the uniform beach of 1/m slope, and its ensuing morphology change. Numerical results show that the partially skewed, and asymmetric bottom shearing stresses can be successfully simulated. It was shown that sediments suspended and eroded at the foreshore by wave breaking are gradually drifted toward a shore and accumulated in the process of up-rush, which eventually leads to the formation of swash bar. It is also worth mentioning that the breaker bar formed by the sediments dragged by the back-wash flow which commences at the pinnacle of up-rush as the back-wash flow gets weakened due to the increased depth was successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.23-60
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• 2016

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.450-457
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• 2019

Sedimentation is a common problem for river ports. But its intensity depends on the rate of sedimentation, channel shape and size, hydrodynamic behavior of the river and the importance of the port. High sedimentation rate in Yangon River has become one major issue for Myanmar as her largest port is located on the Yangon riverbank. As a result of the high sedimentation rate, shallow water area near the confluence of Yangon River, Pazundaung Creek, and Bago River keeps blocking the navigation channel to the Yangon Port, which also limits the size of vessel calling to Yangon Port. Therefore, studies to understand sediment transport process in Yangon River are required because the economic development of Myanmar highly relies on the Yangon Port. This paper aims to calculate the sediment transport and to predict the riverbed elevation changes in Yangon River by using Bagnold (1966) theory. Calculation result shows that huge difference can be found in the bed load transport between the rainy season and dry season in Yangon River, and thus the sedimentation problem would become more severe in the dry season when the transported sediments are reduced. The estimated sedimentation rate in dry season indicates that the rate of riverbed level rise near the Yangon Port area is about 0.063 m per year, which would lead to approximately 3.15 m rise in the riverbed level in next 50 yrs, considering the same workload of dredging to maintain the navigation channel.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.107-116
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• 1999

To study the characters of surface sediment and to describe the seasonal depositional environment as a result of sedimentation process off Byun-San Peninsula, a total 61 samples of surface sediment (32 samples in summer; 29 samples in winter) were collected and analysed. A digitized depth data from sea chart and echosounding profiles along five trans-sections were helpful for understanding the morphological factors. The types classified by the characters of surface sediment are type I (sand, S), type II (silty sand, zS), and type ill (sandy silt, sZ). Mean grain size varies from 2.11 to 7.81 ${\Phi}$. The positive-skewness shows the typical tide-dominated environment. The sediment type of the northwestern stations is medium sand and the sorting value is 0.5~1.4 ${\Phi}$ of well/moderately sorted. Meanwhile, other stations are composed of muddy sands and sandy muds transported from rivers and offshore. These sediment types toward inshore change gradually from silty sand to sandy silt. According to the C/M diagram, there are three major transport modes of sediment: bed load (Mode A), graded suspension (Mode B), and suspension (Mode C), correlating with north-eastern sandy area, middle part of silty-sand area, and southern sandy-silt area, respectively. The result of Principal Component Analysis shows also similar pattern of sediment types. In result, sediment texture of type III tends to be finer and more poorly-sorted than that of type II and sediment facies are correlateed with sedimentation process.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2009.05a
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• pp.747-751
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• 2009

국내에서 비교적 널리 이용되고 있는 유사량 모형의 특성을 파악하기 위해 낙동강 유역에 위치한 왜관 수위관측소에서 부유사, 소류사, 하상토를 각각 채취하였다. 총유사량 산정을 위해 이용된 자료는 부유사, 소류사, 하상토, 수리량 등이며, 이로부터 실측 유사량과 모의 유사량을 산정하였다. 본 연구에서는 실측 총유사량(세류사량 제외)을 부유사량과 소류사량의 합으로 산정하였으며, 추정 값은 Modified Einstein(1955), Engelund & Hansen(1967), Yang(1973, 1979), Ackers & White(1973)의 모형으로 각각 모의하였다. 실측치와 모의치를 비교 분석한 결과, Ackers & White에서 비교적 가장 낮은 불일치율을 보였으며, Engelund & Hansen, Yang, Modified Einstein의 모의 결과는 Ackers & White 보다 높은 불일치율을 보였다. 또한 불일치율이 가장 낮은 모델을 이용하여 유랑-유사량관계곡선식을 개발하였으며, 개발된 곡선식을 이용하여 연간 총유사량과 비유사량을 추정하였다.

• The Korean Journal of Quaternary Research
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.11-29
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• 2006

A bedrock river is a channel in which bedrock is exposed along the channel bed or walls for at least approximately half of its length. In some case, a continuous alluvial veneer may be present, but this is completely mobilized during floods. From the point of long term landscape evolution during the Quaternary, the bedrock channel determines local base level and the lowering rate of bedrock channels controls the rate of erosion and transport processes and forms on the adjacent hillslopes. In this review, various erosional processes in bedrock river channels are classified and discussed. Especially, theoretical and numerical models on channel bed abrasion with bed load sediment particles are introduced and discussed.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2015.05a
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• pp.237-237
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• 2015

The district of Marlborough has had more than its share of river management projects over the past 150 years, each one uniquely affecting the geomorphology and flood hazard of the Wairau Plains. A major early project was to block the Opawa distributary channel at Conders Bend. The Opawa distributary channel took a third and more of Wairau River floodwaters and was a major increasing threat to Blenheim. The blocking of the Opawa required the Wairau and Lower Wairau rivers to carry greater flood flows more often. Consequently the Lower Wairau River was breaking out of its stopbanks approximately every seven years. The idea of diverting flood waters at Tuamarina by providing a direct diversion to the sea through the beach ridges was conceptualised back around the 1920s however, limits on resources and machinery meant the mission of excavating this diversion didn't become feasible until the 1960s. In 1964 a 10 m wide pilot channel was cut from the sea to Tuamarina with an initial capacity of $700m^3/s$. It was expected that floods would eventually scour this 'Wairau Diversion' to its design channel width of 150 m. This did take many more years than initially thought but after approximately 50 years with a little mechanical assistance the Wairau Diversion reached an adequate capacity. Using the power of the river to erode the channel out to its design width and depth was a brilliant idea that saved many thousands of dollars in construction costs and it is somewhat ironic that it is that very same concept that is now being used to deal with the aggradation problem that the Wairau Diversion has caused. The introduction of the Wairau Diversion did provide some flood relief to the lower reaches of the river but unfortunately as the Diversion channel was eroding and enlarging the Lower Wairau River was aggrading and reducing in capacity due to its inability to pass its sediment load with reduced flood flows. It is estimated that approximately $2,000,000m^3$ of sediment was deposited on the bed of the Lower Wairau River in the time between the Diversion's introduction in 1964 and 2010, raising the Lower Wairau's bed upwards of 1.5m in some locations. A numerical morphological model (MIKE-11 ST) was used to assess a number of options which led to the decision and resource consent to construct an erodible (fuse plug) bank at the head of the Wairau Diversion to divert more frequent scouring-flows ($+400m^3/s$)down the Lower Wairau River. Full control gates were ruled out on the grounds of expense. The initial construction of the erodible bank followed in late 2009 with the bank's level at the fuse location set to overtop and begin washing out at a combined Wairau flow of $1,400m^3/s$ which avoids berm flooding in the Lower Wairau. In the three years since the erodible bank was first constructed the Wairau River has sustained 14 events with recorded flows at Tuamarina above $1,000m^3/s$ and three of events in excess of $2,500m^3/s$. These freshes and floods have resulted in washout and rebuild of the erodible bank eight times with a combined rebuild expenditure of $80,000. Marlborough District Council's Rivers & Drainage Department maintains a regular monitoring program for the bed of the Lower Wairau River, which consists of recurrently surveying a series of standard cross sections and estimating the mean bed level (MBL) at each section as well as an overall MBL change over time. A survey was carried out just prior to the installation of the erodible bank and another survey was carried out earlier this year. The results from this latest survey show for the first time since construction of the Wairau Diversion the Lower Wairau River is enlarging. It is estimated that the entire bed of the Lower Wairau has eroded down by an overall average of 60 mm since the introduction of the erodible bank which equates to a total volume of $260,000m^3$. At a cost of $$0.30/m^3$ this represents excellent value compared to mechanical dredging which would likely be in excess of $$10/m^3$. This confirms that the idea of using the river to enlarge the channel is again working for the Wairau River system and that in time nature's "excavator" will provide a channel capacity that will continue to meet design requirements.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.347-359
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• 2016

Flow input from the basin will not remain the same as before due to climate changes. Since the predictions on river discharge due to climate change is given by scenarios, various discharge scenarios were prepared in this study. For a long term and reach prediction, semi-two dimensional sediment transport model, GSTARS, was used. The flood water surface elevations predicted by GSTARS model were analysed statistically and it was concluded that the model is applicable for the South Han River. Three stream tubes is the most suitable to simulate two dimensional river geometric change River geometric changes. For sediment load computation, Ackers and White equation and Yang equation were resonable. River will become narrower regardless of discharge variation, more discharge results in deeper channel.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.32 no.1B
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• pp.53-57
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• 2012

This study presents a numerical model that is capable of simulating the evolution of mining pit in a stream. The numerical model is based on the quasi-steady assumption that the flow is steady with time-dependent morphological change. This hypothesis is valid due to the fact that the stream morphology changes over a long period compared with the time of flow change. Before applications, numerical experiments are carried out with two total load formulas such as Engelund and Hansen's (1967) and Ackers and White's (1973). It is found that the use of Engelund and Hansen's formula reproduces evolution of mining pit best compared with simulated profiles in Parker (2004). Then, the model is applied to two laboratory experiments in the literature. In general, the numerical model simulates properly the evolution of mining pit in laboratory open-channels. However, it is found that the model does not reproduce head-cutting, propagating upstream, and under-estimates the wave of the bed, propagating downstream, after finishing the re-fill of the mining pit.