• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.21-39
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• 1995

By 1980, there are two main flows in the world fashion. One is the traditional Paris fashion by Houte Couture, and the other is the American casual fashion by mass production. However, the appearance of Japanese designers and their new styles on the stage of Paris fashion have had a strong influence on the change of the world fashion since 1980s. So, the purposes of this study were first to research the process, the background and the power which let the Japanese stand and suc-ceed in the stage of Paris fashion, second to research on the Fashion World and Fashion Trend from the beginning of 1980s to present (1994). The results were as follow ; Hanae Mori and Kenzo were the pioneers who let the West know the existence and the level of Japanese fashion. Issey Miyake was the new innovator in the 20th century Fashion. and became the foundation of the New Wave Fashion in 1980s. Rei kawakubo completed the philosophy of beauty by the imperfection and has led the Postmodernism in the Fashion. The constant efforts of the these Japanese designers have inspired the orientalism and Art-to Wear, showed up the new construction and material in clothing by layering and drap-ing and stimulated the traditional Paris fashion to become popular, casual and diverse. The success of Japanese designers and the boom of Japanese fashion were not only the effort of individuality but also the power of economics, the spirit of cooperation and the affection to the culture and tradition on the background. The New Wave fashion by Japanese designers in the beginning of 1980s have promoted the appearance of Avant-garde fashion in London, the new fashion spirit in Milano, and the various fashion styles of different sections in the West and East. Finally, it becomes popular in 1990s and leads the fashion spirit in the end of 20th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.176-190
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• 2007

As the globalization has increasingly brought in the disintrgration of boundary between cultures, the hybrid of styles, or fusion styles in various cultural spheres have been introduced as important theme. With this new trend, the traditional culture of Asia appeared as the source of inspiration for the West, and as the source of enhanced pride and asset for ethnic groups which have been considered "the Other" by the West. 1990's witnessed a drastically increased interest in Orientalism and Ethnic trends in most social aspects, especially in culture and art. They have been the main theme in fashion, providing the source of inspiration with elements such as the unique color schemes, composition methods and geometrical simplicity. The creative application of traditional culture into modern design as well as fashion can make a significant contribution and be a solid foundation for the development of national culture in general, since images containing cultural authenticity are the visual representation of the nation and they can be important tools for the globalization of design. This study aims to find out the formative characteristics of Korean traditional embroidery and the ways they are applied in modern fashion by world-renowned Korean fashion designers. The purpose of this study is to make a fundamental source for further study by the same author on creative design development utilizing the result. The study methods are literature study combined with research of genuine articles from museums and personal ownership as well as photos from magazines and internet. The significance of this study lies in enhancing the appreciation of Korean traditional culture and expanding the possibility of its globalization by modern application.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.489-498
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• 2008

This study is on the image evaluation of the hair up-style and the wedding dress styles of prospective brides. Based on some prior theoretical studies, and information obtained from wedding magazines and interviews conducted at the beauty business places, four kinds of the hair up-style were selected, namely, top-point, golden-point, back-point, and nape point. Three styles of necklines were selected: boat necklines, V-necklines, and off-shoulder necklines. The surveyor herself did the hair styling for models, and dressed up the models, to produce the stimuli. And the stimuli were presented to percipients along with questionnaires for measuring the image evaluations. Prepared were total 12 different kinds of stimuli, in which four hair up-styles and three dress styles were combined into 12 combinations ($3^*4$), and, with respect to these 12 stimuli, 26 itemized questions were included in the questionnaire. From the factor analysis on the image evaluation of the hair up- style and wedding dresses, five factors were derived as fallowing: attractiveness, boldness, purity, cuteness, feminity. This study revealed that wedding dress styles are more sensitive to the contemporary trend, compared to the hair styles; and the selection in the wedding style is quite influenced by the dress style, but not by the hair up-style. Also, prospective brides evaluated the hair up-styles and the wedding dress styles separately without recognizing their mutual relationship, and thus did not recognize the two as the mutually coordinated relationship, but rather recognize the two as two separate elements.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.461-471
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• 2011

Jewelry has recognized as a part of independent formative arts of fashion with the change modern man's cognition for the fashion. It is a great important section to express fashion image. So, many corporations design and develop the jewelry by themselves to maxmize their fashion image. Among the so many kinds of jewelry, especially the necklace is located beneath the face and linked as a part of fashion, so it frequently has showed in Fashion Collection. Like this Fashion and jewelry enact each other and share their esthetic features but, it is insufficient the study of fashion linked with the jewelry. In this study, we defined the words which is using confusedly according to jewelry forms what researched by others. In addition, we tend to study the effect of that the form, hue and character of materials of necklace that is expressed in fashion collection influence fashion image. The method of this study is comprised with precedent studies and analysis of necklace photos in fashion collection. For the analysis of data, we implement content analysis and statistical analysis using SPAW Statistics 18(frequency analysis, percentage, cross-tabulations, $X^2$-test). Because the hue and the form of necklace take a great role to make fashion image with the sense of its eyesight, its effective coordination go up the delicate feelings with the form, hue and quality of the fashion. Especially, the hue is the essential element of formative characteristics to express visual image. The necklace had coordinated more frequently in S/S than F/W, it means that more light and simple fashion let ornamental beauty could express by the necklace. So, it is very effective things that we predict the trend of fashion, then, coordinate with well-matched necklace.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.245-254
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to describe 20's to 30's men's fashion lifestyle and develop clusters in grooming related variables. We also tried to interpret profile of clusters, and determine the difference between different level of grooming clusters in appearance care behaviors, and clothing behaviors such as clothing selection, preference of clothing image and design in men's wear. Data was obtained using the survey methods by convenience sampling. Frequency analysis, factor analysis, cluster analysis, chi-square test, and t-test were used for analysis using SPSS 18.0. The result of factor analysis of men's lifestyle show that 5 factors are extracted. Two different clusters were formed after the K-means cluster analysis. We realized that the level of grooming activity is significantly associated with the young men's major expenditure item, and beauty/care items, and the reason for exercise. The level of grooming was strongly associated with clothing selection behaviors. In addition, there is a significant difference in preferred image between two different grooming groups. In the feminine image, HG group favored more than LG group. The preferred design was associated with the degree of grooming as well. Unique and stylish top and bottom styles such as cargo, hiphop, and boots cut were favored more by HG group than LG group. We suggest that we can do market segmentation by the degree of the grooming activity, considering the current men's taste and trend to extend market share.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.3 s.68
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• pp.420-430
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• 2007

Noting that there is an increasing trend of the so-called 'neo-single life style' among women these days, this research aims to make a product development for these neo-single women in this era of families of a single member by analyzing their concepts and characteristics. We payed a particular attention to the data from such sources as newspapers, magazines or the articles in the Internet. The essence of our research lies in the analysis of target market, in the suggestions in the brand planning and product development and in the designs of fashion and interior products for them. The result of this research is as follows. First, it turns out that these neo-single women enjoy a kind of multi-mixing code lifestyle rather than showing a preference for a particular brand. For this reason, we have decided to pursue a multi-concept brand fonn as a right direction for brand planning for them. Second, as for a philosophy behind the brands, we suggest a concept of 'small utopia' for neo-single women and express such as new aristocracy, happiness and pleasure. Third, we adopt 'YOU' as the name of the brand as it reflects their various life styles and characteristics. Fourth, as for the product development of F/W in 2007, we have decided on 'Minimal Natural' as it mixes up the concepts of the controlled beauty of sophistication and multi-functional elements and 'Modern Primitive' as it expresses the ethnic elements on modern images having craft factors and modern images. We have performed concrete tasks in creating images, coloring, making fabrics for each theme. Fifth, we have chosen and suggested other products that are suitable for these neo-single women who seek for multi-functional but simple kinds after surveying a wide range of products in magazines or in the Internet.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.891-902
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze sexual images in the 21th century men's fashion, including phenomenal formative changes and characteristics. Theoretical framework was developed based on literature reviews. Photo images were collected from collections presented in 2001 to 2008 on the internet sites. By focusing on sexual image. men's fashion design was analyzed. Since 21th century, men have expressed their own fashion sense and sexual image quite freely. Men's fashion has expanded its scope into region which are not exclusively of men's traditional fashion identity realm. The result of this study is as follows: First, Noble Dandyism is common among noble dandies whose desired image is luxurious, soft, and sophisticated. Second, Bisexual Caportism is another appealing 'Youth is beautiful' trend of our modern age. Beyond age and gender, modern people pay a special attention to the Caports look which aims to project an image of healthiness, dynamism, youth, and pure balanced beauty combined with fashion. Third, Macho Narcissism enjoys showing and exposing well-trained and beautiful bodies, compared to the old masculine image which was more known for expressing an authoritative and dominant strength. Fourth, Homme Fatale Vampicism seeks to accentuate deconstructed femininity and bare legs, matted make-up, long and curly hair, especially aims to emphasize sexual charms, which naturally makes its image more fascinating.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.95-112
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• 2005

Hair styles, dresses and their ornaments are basic measures that show the trend of the times, the people and their life in both Eastern and Western societies. The history of a country could start or be extinguished at any time, but life goes on. Koguryo was founded around Anno Domini and fell at 668 A. D. What was Koguryo people like? How was their hair style and costume? This study aims to respond those questions. The Koguryo ancient mural paintings can be broadly divided into the Jip-An region and the Pyon-Yang region. Among the paintings found, that in the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb at the Pyon-Yang region is the biggest and the most splendid. It is a figure genre painting, which contains a kitchen, a rice mill, a stable, a barn, a garage, etc. Those places illustrate the way of life at the time. The painting also comprises a man with a crown, who is seen as the king and owner of this tomb. The woman with a vertically designed hair style is perceived as the queen. A highly guarded and decorated royal parade is also presented in detail. The hair styles and costume evidence in the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb are not seen in the paintings of the Jip-An region. This study inquires into the differences between the Pyon-Yang and lip-An regions through the history and the culture of those areas. Nevertheless, it could prove tentative to confirm the owner of the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb with the only evidence of the words found in the wall of the tomb. It is the author's intention to study and analyse further.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.185-205
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• 2015

The modern trend in costumes, influenced by postmodernism, is to use of various patterns and images borrowed from diverse cultures of many ethnic groups. The Yi tribe studied in this paper is miner ethnic group in China, whose traditional costume is very splendid and modern. In addition, its embroidery or $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ pattern have a high artistic value in that its shapes are diverse, splendid and each one has its own peculiar elegance. As for the research method, I examined the Yi tribe's history, culture, traditional costumes and patterns through related books, research papers and inter web sites. As for the result, the Yi tribe's costumes consisted of a jacket, trousers or a skirt, an apron and a belt. Although the favorite color of the costume is black color, there are splendid embroidery or $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ decorations with the colors of red, yellow, green and purple on the chest or shoulder part of a jacket, the adjusting lines, cuffs or a part of a trousers and aprons. Patterns in their traditional clothing also show details that depict traditional cultural ideas that have long been formed in various fields, such as aesthetics, religion, philosophy, and customs. Moreover, most patterns displayed in their traditional clothing contain nature motifs and represent unique and beautiful designs; some patterns are even reminiscent of abstract paintings by modern artists. In conclusion, the traditional patterns of Chinese ethnic minorities reflect the values and notions of these races as well as decorative magnificence and a unique spiritual image. In other words, traditional patterns indicate the spiritual depth or symbolic stories beyond mere formative beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.536-543
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• 2003

The Chosun Dynasty in the $18^{th}$ century was a period of revival for science, art, and culture, bringing about Silhak(practical science), a new trend in the history of Chosun thoughts. In the history of fine arts, realistic landscape paintings and genre paintings were popular as realism became prevalent. From the aspect of food culture, in particular, the luxurious and elegant Korean-styled food culture was completed during this period. Iwanwasuseoksihoedo was painted by Jeong Hwang (1735-1800) in 1789, depicting a banquet on an elder's $60^{th}$ birthday. It is classified as a genre painting in the late Chosun Period but it contains things that comes into our heart, which are white porcelain with blue celadon pictures, white porcelain bowls, busy atmosphere of a banqueting house where food is being carried in a hurry and elders' serene appearance. All these things show the abundance of life, the room and comfort of old ages, and the beauty and relish of life in the well-arranged living ground. Hoehonyedo was painted on an elder's $60^{th}$ marriage anniversary by an unknown artist presumably in the $18^{th}$ century is a painting as realistic as a documentary photograph. The work gives viewers pleasure and comfort because it describes not a mighty clan but the superb later years of an official who had lived right and upright life. In the aspect of food culture, it displays the food culture of the splendid sixtieth marriage anniversary of a Korean official through noble etiquette among family members, seat planning, unique table culture and high quality tableware including white porcelain with celadon pictures and pure white porcelain.