• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.42 no.5
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• pp.639-650
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• 2022

In areas where large-scale sediment transport occurs, it is important to apply appropriate countermeasure method because the phenomenon tends to accelerate by time duration. Among the various countermeasure methods applied so far, beach nourishment needs to be reviewed as an erosion prevention measure because the erosion pattern is mitigated and environmentally friendly depending on the particle size. In the case of beach nourishment. a detailed review is required to determine the size, range, etc., of an appropriate particle diameter. In this study, we investigated the characteristics of the related topographic change using the change in the particle size of nourishment materials, the application of partial area, and the condition under the coexistence of waves and wind as variables because those factors are hard to be analyzed and interpreted within results and limitation of that the existing numerical models are not able to calculate and result out so that it is required that phenomenon or efforts are reviewed at the same time through physical model experiments, field monitoring and etc. So we attempt to reproduce the tendency of beach erosion and deposition and predict possible phenomena in the future using machine learning techniques for phenomena that it is not able to be interpreted by numerical models. we used the hydraulic experiment results for the training data, and the accuracy of the prediction results according to the change in the training method was simultaneously analyzed. As a result of the study it was found that topographic changes using machine learning tended to be similar to those of previous studies in short-term predictions, but we also found differences in the formation of scour and sandbars.

• Economic and Environmental Geology
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.243-252
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• 2008

The Iho and Hamdeok beaches, the major coastal beaches in Jeju Island, have been studied through size analysis and using an experimental extension pole and sediment trap in beach profile, in order to understand their textural characteristics, migration patterns, and seasonal change in beach geometry. The Iho beach is composed of coarse and medium sands, 590 m in total length. The foreshore slope is 12.3$^{\circ}$ in summer and 10.8$^{\circ}$ in winter, which shows more steeper in summer. The Hamdeok beach consisting mostly of shell fragments is 950 m long, $5.7{\sim}7.4^{\circ}$ steep and 97.4${\sim}$114.5 m wide, respectively. The suspended load drift concentrations in the studied beaches showed 4.5 mg/l during the period of summer and 33.2 mg/l in winter, and those of fine-grained sediments are derived mostly from the marine of northeastward direction. The typical beach transformation of the Iho beach is resulting from the construction of jetties in the west side that built up the sand inside the jetties, whereas the erosion is occurring on the east side of beach. The center and berm sides of the sand in the Hamdeok beach drift into the dune side during the period of the stormy winter season.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.203-213
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• 2024

This study aimed to investigate the seasonal patterns of multiple bar formation in summer and flattening in winter on the macrotidal Sinduri beach in Taean, and to understand the processes their formation and subsequent flattening. Beach profiling has been conducted regularly over the last four years using a VRS-GPS system. Surface sediment samples were collected seasonally along the transectline, and grain size analyses were performed. Tidal current data were acquired using a TIDOS current observation system during both winter and summer. The Sinduri macrotidal beach consists of two geomorphic units: an upper high-gradient beach face and a lower gentler sloped intertidal zone. High berms and beach cusps did not develop on this beach face. The approximately 400-m-wide intertidal zone comprises distinct 2-5 lines of multiple bars. Mean grain sizes of sand bars range from 2.0 to 2.75 phi, corresponding to fine sands. Mean sizes show shoreward coarsening trend. Regular beach-profiling survey revealed that the summer profile has a multi-barred morphology with a maximum of five bar lines, whereas, the winter profile has a non-barred, flat morphology. The non-barred winter profiles likely result from flattening by scour-and-fill processes during winter. The growth of multiple bars in summer is interpreted to be formed by a break-point mechanism associated with moderate waves and the translation of tide levels, rather than the standing wave hypothesis, which is stationary at high tide. The break-point hypothesis for multi-bars is supported by the presence of the largest bar at mean sea-level, shorter bar spacing toward the shore, irregular bar spacing, strong asymmetry of bars, and the 10-30 m shoreward migration of multi-bars.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.493-500
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• 2019

In this study, sensitivity analysis of sediment transport scaling factors in Delft3D-Morphology was performed to examine the effect those parameters on simulation results of cross-shore profile changes. For numerical experiments, one-year wave time series data which were observed in 2018 on the Maengbang coast in Gangwon prefecture were applied as external force. Bathymetric data observed in January and October of the same year were used as initial bathymetric data and annual bathymetric change data, respectively. The simulation performance of the model was evaluated based on the Brier Skill Score index for each part by dividing an arbitrary cross section within the calculation domain into the onshore and offshore parts. As a result, it was found thet the f_BED variable has a slight effect on the simulation results. The f_BEDW and f_SUSW variables show good simulation performance in onshore part when the value less than 0.5 is applied and vice versa. Among the experimental conditions, the optimal combinations of variables are f_BED = 1.0, f_BEDW = 1.0, f_SUSW = 0.1 for the onshore region and f_BED = 1.0, f_BEDW = 1.0, f_SUSW = 0.5 for the offshore region. However, since these combinations were derived based on the observation data on Maengbang beach in 2018, users should be careful when applying those results to other areas.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.26 no.3B
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• pp.311-319
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• 2006

A bed level change model(SED-FLUX) is introduced based on the realistic sediment transport process including bed load and suspended load behaviours at the bottom boundary layer. The model SED-FLUX includes wave module, hydrodynamic module and sediment transport and diffusion module that calculate suspended sediment concentration, net sediment erosion flux($Q_s$) and bed load flux. Bed load transport rate is evaluated by the van Rijn's TRANSPOR program which has been verified in wave-current fields. The net sediment erosion flux($Q_s$) at the bottom is evaluated as a source/sink term in the numerical sediment diffusion model where the suspended sediment concentration becomes a verification parameter of the $Q_s$. Bed level change module calculates a bed level change amount(${\Delta}h_{i,j}$) and updates a bed level. For the model verification the limit depth of the bed load transport is compared with the field experiment data and some formula on the threshold depth for the bed load movement by waves and currents. This model is applied to the beach profile changes by waves, then the model shows a clear erosion and accumulation profile according to the incident wave characteristics. Finally the beach evolution by waves and wave-induced currents behind the offshore breakwater is calculated, where the model shows a tombolo formation in the landward area of the breakwater.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.197-206
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to evaluate coastal erosion due to a sea-level rise. The shoreline retreat rate was calculated due to future sea-level rise. Shoreline retreat rates were quantified with the cross-sectional data of 23 sandy coasts (12 sites from east coast, 5 sites from south coast, and 6 sites of west coast) and 3 cross-sectional profiles from each side of the coasts in Korea. The theory of equilibrium beach profile was employed in this study to evaluate the applicability of the theory into the coast of Korea and was tested with 15 cross-sectional beach profiles. Four scenarios of future sea level rise such as 38 cm, 59 cm, 75 cm, and 100 cm were adopted to estimate the shoreline retreat rates. Overall shoreline retreat rates for the coasts in Korea were predicted as 43.7% for 38 cm, 60.3% for 59 cm, 69.2% for 75 cm, and 80.1% for 100 cm sea level rises, respectively. Retreat rates in the east coast (29.6% for 38 cm, 45.1% for 59 cm, 56.0% for 75 cm, and 69.9% for 100 cm) showed relatively low compared to the south coast (51.9%, 67.6%, 77.2%, 87.3%) and the west coast (53.8%, 71.0%, 78.5%, 86.4%). However, all sandy coasts in Korea were assessed to be vulnerable with increasing sea-level rise. There are uncertainties in the assessment of this study, which include the limitation of the assessment model and the lack of the spatio-temporal data of the beach profiles. Therefore, this study shows that it is very important to spend integrated efforts to respond coastal erosion including comprehensive observations(monitoring) and the development of scientific understanding on the field.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.434-449
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• 2019

In this study, we develop a new cross-shore sediment module which takes the effect of infra-gravity waves of bound mode, and boundary layer streaming on the sediment transport into account besides the well-known asymmetry and under-tow. In doing so, the effect of individual random waves occurring during the unit observation period of 1 hr on sediment transport is also fully taken into account. To demonstrate how the individual random waves would affect the sediment transport, we numerically simulate the non-linear shoaling process of random wavers over the beach of uniform slope. Numerical results show that with the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. the application of which is lately extended to surf zone, we could simulate the saw-tooth profile observed without exception over the surf zone, infra-gravity waves of bound mode, and boundary-layer streaming accurately enough. It is also shown that when yearly highest random waves are modeled by the equivalent nonlinear uniform waves, the maximum cross-shore transport rate well exceeds the one where the randomness is fully taken into account as much as three times. Besides, in order to optimize the free parameter K involved in the long-shore sediment module, we carry out the numerical simulation to trace the yearly shoreline change of Mang-Bang beach from 2017.4.26 to 2018.4.20 as well, and proceeds to optimize the K by comparing the traced shoreline change with the measured one. Numerical results show that the optimized K for Mang-Bang beach would be 0.17. With K = 0.17, via yearly grand circulation process comprising severe erosion by consecutively occurring yearly highest waves at the end of October, and gradual recovery over the winter and spring by swell, the advance of shore-line at the northern and southern ends of Mang-Bang beach by 18 m, and the retreat of shore-line by 2.4 m at the middle of Mang-Bang beach can be successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.35-42
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• 1979

This paper concerns the receding of the eastern coastline of Korean peninsula at a macroscopic point of view, the result is as following. 1. Eastern coast is gradually developed from maturity stage to full maturity stage. 2. The coastline recession due to sea level rise is amounted to the receding distance, x=0.045 m per yr. 3. The author proposes another classification from the new view point, which is classified by comparing quantities between river supplying sediment loads, and the littoral drifting due to wave actions. According this, eastern coast is receding(Type Q-A), and we could find it's geomorphological characteristics. 4. The general piofile of eastern coast sand beach is erosional storm profile(Type I) which accompany offshore bar. 5. From the wave measuring data of eastern coast(Hoopo port), I can derive the linear regression line of the exceedance probability of wave height from the log-normal distribution. $z=O. 113+4.335 log_lo H, r=0.983.$ Above equation made it possible to estimate $\omega[=P(H>H_c)]for the effective wave height H_c=2. Om4, 4. Om and their corresponding values are considerable (7.8%, 0.3%) 6. Eastern coastline certainly have the tendency of erosive and receding, owing to the sea level rise, poor sediment source and effective wave actions. It's very desirable to survey coastline evolution for a long time systematically, in order to make more elaborate diagnosis.