• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.244-252
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• 2014

EOF (Empirical Orthogonal Function) analysis is applied to investigate the sand movement in Hujeong Beach. For the analysis, the profile data which were observed five times from June 2009 to May 2010 along the 13 baselines were used. To secure the temporal and physical consistency among the 13 profile data, the 13 profile data were combined into one data and using this data the EOF analysis was performed. According to the analysis, the first EOF is related with the mean topography and the second EOF represents the natural variation of sediment migration and the third EOF is related with the along-shore sediment transport arising from storm. The remaining EOFs show no special relation with wave conditions. In conclusion the main factors which are having great effects on Hujeong Beach's sand movement are analyzed as natural variation and along-shore sediment transport owing the wave conditions.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.241-250
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• 2006

In the present study, a beach survey such as sand sizes, swim zone widths, and slopes of swash zone has been accomplished for 39 beaches along the Gangwon coastline. The data analysis presents that the swim zone width has a strong correlation with the sand size, showing that the swim zone width is reversely proportional to the 1.1 power of a grain size. The profile factor A has been analyzed using the beach profile form of $h=Ay^{2/3}$, where A was resulted to be proportional to the 0.77 power of a gram size.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.19-26
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• 2000

A numerical model is applied for predicting two-dimensional beach and dune erosion during severe storms. The model uses equation of sediment continuity and dynamic equation, governing the on-offshore sediment transport due to a disequilibrium of wave energy dissipation. And the model also uses sediment transport rate parameter K from dimensional analysis instead of that recommended by Kriebel. During a storm, a beach profile evolves to a form where the depth at the surf zone is related to the distance seaward of the waterline. In general, the erosion in the beach profile is found to be sensitive to equilibrium profile parameter, sediment transport rate parameter, storm surge level and breaking wave height.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.55-60
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• 2000

This paper is descried the experimental results of beach process including storm surge and beach recovery. By testing different surge levels and durations, effects of these to shoreline change were evaluated. In addition of beach recovery were investigated experimentally. On the other hand, we proposed the method, which can be applicable to complex hydrograph such as storm surge by modifying equation proposed by Kriebel and Dean. Moreover, applicability of this method is verified by comparing computing result with experiments.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.265-275
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• 2011

The Hamo and Hyeopjae beaches in the western part of Jeju Island were studied in terms of seasonal variations of surface sediment and beach profile. Seasonal drift direction of the beach sands also was investigated. The Hamo beach of $7.3^{\circ}-10.8^{\circ}$ steep is composed of medium sand containing volcanic clasts and shell fragments. The Hyeopjae beach of $2.8^{\circ}-6.5^{\circ}$ steep is composed of coarse shelly sand. Hamo beach deformation is probably caused by the jetties constructed in the western part of the beach. In the Hyeopjae beach, surface sands were drifted into the dune side by the northwestern stormy wind during winter season.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.83-92
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• 2004

A continuous monitoring of textural characteristics of surface sediments, sedimentation rates and beach profile was carried out to investigate the seasonal variations of sedimentary processes in the Imjado beach, southwestern coast of Korea for two years. The beach profiles consist of steep beach face and relatively flat middle and low tide beaches. The slope of the beach face increases in summer and decreases in winter, in good accordance with the standard beach cycle. Ridge and runnel systems are well developed in the middle and low tide beaches during the summer, but these structures are replaced by mega-ripples during the winter. The sediments are fining southward as well as landward. The mean grain-size tends to be increasingly coarser during seasons of autumn and winter on the north beach and during seasons of winter and spring on the south one. In addition, the sediments are eroded on the north beach and accumulated on the south one as a whole. These are probably due to southward transportation of the sediments as long-shore current (NE-SW) runs around the coastal line of the beach. However, the seasonal variations in accumulation rates are very complex and irregular. It is considered that the Imjado beach represents in non-equilibrium state, as a result of coastal and submarine topographic changes by artificial agents and sea-level uprising associated with global warming.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.277-286
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• 2013

Cross-shore sediment transport is very important factor in the design of coastal structures, and the beach profile is mainly affected by a number of parameters, such as wave height and period, beach slope, and the material properties of the bed. In this study cross-shore sediment movement was investigated using a physical model and various offshore bar geometric parameters were determined by the resultant erosion profile. The experiments on cross- shore sediment transport carried out in a laboratory wave channel for initial base slopes of 1/8, 1/10 and 1/15. Using the regular waves with different deep-water wave steepness generated by a pedal-type wave generator, the geometrical of sediment transport rate and considerable characteristics of beach profiles under storm conditions and bar parameters affecting on-off shore sediment transport are investigated for the beach materials with the medium diameter of $d_{50}$=0.25, 0.32, 0.45, 0.62 and 0.80 mm. Non-dimensional equations were obtained by using linear and non-linear regression methods through the experimental data and were compared with previously developed equations in the literature. The results have shown that the experimental data fitted well to the proposed equations with respect to the previously developed equations.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.581-589
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• 2019

In order to understand the characteristics of beach deformation, in this study, numerical simulations were conducted using a 3-D hydro-morphodynamic model (HYMO-WASS-3D) to analyze the characteristics of beach deformation due to the coastal groundwater levels. HYMO-WASS-3D directly analyzed the nonlinear interaction between the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes in the coastal area. The simulation results of HYMO-WASS-3D showed good agreement with the experimental results on the changes in the profile of the beach in the surf and swash zones. Then, numerical simulations were conducted to examine the characteristics of beach deformation due to the variation of the level of the coastal groundwater. As a result, the beach profiles were examined in relation to the wave breaking in the surf zone and the wave uprush and backwash in the swash zone due to the differences in the water levels. This paper also discussed the temporal and spatial distributions of the velocities, vorticities, and suspended sediments in the surf and swash zones with various levels of the coastal groundwater.

• Journal of Industrial Technology
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• v.16
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• pp.83-95
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• 1996

The equilibrium beach profiles with the effects of random waves and nonuniform grain size in the surf zone are derived from the Thornton and Guza(1983)'s energy dissipation model. The derived beach profiles are the functions of the breaking wave strength, the frequency of the incident wave, and the wave induced-energy dissipation at breaking point. It is not confirmed that the equilibrium beach profiles are better agreement with the measured profiles than the classical profiles. However, the characteristic of the changes of the beach profiles with respect to the breaking wave stgrngth and the frequency of the incident wave can be analyzed which has not been studied by the classical model.

• Economic and Environmental Geology
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.243-252
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• 2008

The Iho and Hamdeok beaches, the major coastal beaches in Jeju Island, have been studied through size analysis and using an experimental extension pole and sediment trap in beach profile, in order to understand their textural characteristics, migration patterns, and seasonal change in beach geometry. The Iho beach is composed of coarse and medium sands, 590 m in total length. The foreshore slope is 12.3$^{\circ}$ in summer and 10.8$^{\circ}$ in winter, which shows more steeper in summer. The Hamdeok beach consisting mostly of shell fragments is 950 m long, $5.7{\sim}7.4^{\circ}$ steep and 97.4${\sim}$114.5 m wide, respectively. The suspended load drift concentrations in the studied beaches showed 4.5 mg/l during the period of summer and 33.2 mg/l in winter, and those of fine-grained sediments are derived mostly from the marine of northeastward direction. The typical beach transformation of the Iho beach is resulting from the construction of jetties in the west side that built up the sand inside the jetties, whereas the erosion is occurring on the east side of beach. The center and berm sides of the sand in the Hamdeok beach drift into the dune side during the period of the stormy winter season.