• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.50-66
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• 2010

This Shanghai region study is a sample survey of female college students in their early 20s. This study collected and analyzed the information of shapes through a direct contact survey to understand the breast figures and the measurements of bodies to provide basic information to improve brassiere production for adult females in China. Data was analyzed through a SAS 9.0. The characteristic of the final brassiere pattern that had been corrected and complemented from the results of the $l^{st},\;2^{nd},\;3^{rd}$, and $4^{th}$ fitting tests is defined as a brassiere inserted with a round wire that has the 3/4cup to wrap the bust area by about 3/4. It consists of an upper and lower nonwoven fabric cup that has a flat-shaped wing of a circular dart. The drawing method of the pattern of this brassiere is applied with the conditions to cover the body naturally under the diverse and organic relations of the material factor of stretch material and wire, functional factor, and sewing factor. The final pattern is created as a bigger angle of wing pattern and a short inner side diameter because there are more Chinese women with a back of bending figure compared to Korean women.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.646-660
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• 2017

This study provides basic data to develop a brassiere pattern that can cover the big breast of breast enlargement patients. In this study, we also showed areas of the brassiere cup pattern and the body surface of the breast on a breast enlargement patient. The results of the study are as follows. Correlation analysis was obtained between volume and body surface area and breast detail dimensions. After the correction process, we proposed a research bra pattern for breast augmentation patients. The cup-boundary in bra patterns of breast enlargement surgery patients is longer than the bra patterns of the general breast; therefore, the height of the inner and outer edges of the upper cups is higher. Also, it is necessary to set the new breast upper point when measuring the upper length in patients with breast augmentation surgery because the points of circumference of the breast are marked higher than chest circumference.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.562-577
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• 2003

The object of my research is to inquiry into the immediate constituent and techniques of underwear after looking into basic theory of underwear, techniques by materials classified according to the matter of elasticity, and studying flat pattern and draping which are basis of corset and brassiere structure focusing on corsetry among underwears and production techniques. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. To make the flat pattern of corset and brassiere fit to the body tightly, design dart two times without any space and draw smaller than the body. To support the breast sufficiently, move the side seam 1¼″ to the front panel and the seam should pass the apex in all occasions. For draping, dart should be added into short of elasticity materials in the past but dart is no use these days since the material today is extremely elastic. It is possible now to show the body line with only the seam or a pattern. In a case of elastic material, set the elastic direction to the grain line and have a draping as pulling from the center to the out side. As production technic, for an hem, put a zigzag stitch in elastic materials with a 10-20% short elastic band, pulling the band. Then make 3/16″-1/4″ short inseam.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.635-644
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• 2014

This study provides basic reference data for brassiere wearing conditions, design preferences of new silver women (50s-60s) and development of brassiere products. We compiled and compared 163 pieces of brassiere (considering of 105 domestic general brassieres and 58 foreign silver brassieres) analyzed using SPSS Statistics 21 program. A survey was then conducted on the actual wearing, purchasing conditions, design preferences for 176 females (50s-60s). The result of this study are as follows: First, comparing actual product conditions (domestic general products and foreign silver products), the ratio of full cup in cup height, V-shape type in neckline shape, long type in front-end length, wide type in wing width, U-shape type in shoulder strap form, wide type in shoulder strap width, no-wire brassieres in breast wire type, all-in-one type in shoulder strap separation, back type in closure type appeared higher than other types of brassiere in domestic general product. Second, a study also showed that 60s women's wearing time is lower than 50s women's; however, 60s women expressed a higher figure and preference for the purchasing ratio in the department store, full cup in cup height, short type in length of brassieres, wide type in wing width, U-shape in shoulder strap form, small type in shoulder strap width, back type in closure type and no-wire brassieres than those in their 50s. It was found they prefer fabric with a high natural content, nude tone color without decoration & pattern and camisole brassieres.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.439-448
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• 2018

This thesis intends to suggest a new wedding dress pattern through researches on history and changes of wedding dress, researches on silhouette and details and analyses of existing basic patterns. In this study, to develop torso patterns of top dresses selected as preferred designs through literature reviews and company surveys, dress form sizes suitable for standard sizes were selected and study basic patterns were made using draping techniques. The study finds characteristics of body type dimension that is changed when wearing brassiere (hereinafter, 'bra') for wedding dress through customer surveys for development of basic patterns of wedding dress. That is, wearing wedding bra was used for the purpose of increasing the bust size and we will evaluate later whether this increase helps completeness of aesthetic impression through wearing evaluation. As the result, it was found out that top torso pattern wearing wedding bra made wearers feel more comfortable and in the aspect of aesthetic impression, it provided impacts on women's beautiful silhouettes. The effects of whether a bra is used or not on changes in patterns were reviewed through the degree of polymerization of finished patterns. When a bra for dresses was worn, the waist front length increased by1.7cm, the bust circumference increased by 2.1cm, and the amount of dart increased by 1.5cm in the patterns. A new torso pattern for top dresses, which will solve problems evaluated in each of the above from the aspect of composition of pattern by a method through analysis of existing basic patterns and multi-dimensional cut patterns wearing wedding bra, will be suggested.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.189-206
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• 2016

A breast model was for the human body was devised by studying a body scan and human body index of a desirable breast type. Thus, when manufacturing various 3D models, these results can accordingly become a fundamental basis for realizing a desirable breast model. This study aims to provide a basic data for designing the cup patterns of brassieres in order to improve the function and wearing comfort. The comfort of three kinds of brassieres were compared: one manufactured by the actual measured size; another manufactured as per the ratio of desirable upper and lower breast lengths; and the third manufactured by the 3D model attained by the desirable human body ratio. In this study, we suggest a process for realizing the desirable breast model using the ratio of bust breadth and waist front length, which are the components for deciding the appropriate position and size of breast, and which are easy to measure. The ideal breast shape is an equilateral triangle formed by connecting the nipple with the center of the clavicle. After deciding the interval between the nipples, this value can be used to configure the locations of nipples by drawing a tangent, with equal length, from the anterior neck point (which is the center of clavicle) to the nipple. Also, since inside points of breast do not exist, the outer point of breast, upper point of breast, and below point of breast on the same plane, and the depths from the nipple point to the respective points, are applied to simulate a 3D image, by modifications along the x, y, and z axes. Depending on the type of breast, the length from the center of shoulder to the nipple, the diameter of breast, upper length of breast, and the position of nipple, are different. In conical or protruding breast, the wearing sensation is better when the nipple point of brassiere was lifted, by modifying the upper and lower lengths of breast. Considering the wearing sensation and function of a brassiere, it was better to leave the wearer's size as it is and use a pad within the same cup, rather than increase the basal area of the breast in order to increase the volume.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.621-634
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• 2012

With comparative analysis of running-type brassieres on the market about suitability for middle-aged women, this study is to provide basic data of running-type brassieres' pattern which is highly suitable. In the pursuit of this purpose, this study carried out wearing experiment targeting 3 middle-aged women with normal body shape which is 85B of chest circumference. The result is as follows. The significant difference was recognized in the breast. The products were rated in order of C>A>B>D, E, F, G>H by the observers, and C>B>D>A>F>E=G>H by the subjects. The significant difference was recognized in the armhole area. The products were ranked in the order of C, D>B, G, E>A, F, H by the observes and D, C>B>G>F>A>H by the subjects. The significant difference was also recognized in 6 categories(14~19) for the torso. According to the overall average values, the products were rated in the order of B, C, D>A, D, F, G by the observers and B=D>C>H>F>G>A>E by the subjects. The overall evaluation exhibited the significant difference. The products were ranked in the order of D>C>E>B>H>A>G>F by both observers and subjects. Therefore it was confirmed that the product D was appropriate in general. To conclude of comparative analysis about 8 kinds of running-type brassieres on the market, the average values of the product C and D in all categories had high marks for each category. The product C was comfortable and capable of covering the breast well, however, a gap was formed in outside-up part. The product D, made from lacy fabric, was very comfortable and well-fitted but there was inconsistency between the mold-cup and the breast shape.