• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.859-879
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• 2004

As a result of research, the characteristics of the general costumes from the king Young-Cho period to the king Jung-Cho period in Genre Paintings of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang follows. First, the typical man wore his hair in a topknot(sangtu), and put on 'Bung-gu-ji', 'Lip', or a scarf on his head. The length of the 'Jeogori'(Korean traditional jacket) was long enough to cover the waist. Dress for work had side slits, and had half length sleeve Jeogori, and short pants looked like 'Jam-bang-i'. They went barefoot and wore 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Dress for outdoor was 'Po' that knot at front of chest by band. 'Baji'(slacks) were with knot below knee, worn 'Hang-jun'(ankle band) and the width of slacks was suitable. They were 'Beoseon'(Korean traditional socks) and shoes. Second those in the upperc1ass and those in the military put on 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Sa-bang-gan', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-geon' on their head on a topknot. Most of them wore 'So-chang-i', 'Jung-chi-mag' or 'Do-po'. The length of Jeogori covered the waist or the hip and were tied with 'Go-rum'(ribbon). Baji was tied with Hang-jun and 'Dae-nim'. The waist of the slacks were tied with a dark colored waist-band and folded down their waist of slacks. They wore white color Beoseon and 'Hye' or dark color leather shoes. They wore 'Sup'(assistant of arm) for bow. It showed the lifestyle of the 18C with fan, 'Be-ru', 'Mug', 'Yun-jug', teacup, pot, etc. Third, child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line, Git of Jeogori was 'Dunggurai-Kit'(shape of round) and other style Jeogori, which reached the hip line, had side-slit. Baji was tied with Dae-nim, and the width of the slacks is suitable. They hang 'Yum-nang'(Pocket). Final, most women worked outdoors wearing their hair in a high twisted style, or covered it with scarf. They wore Jeogori and 'Chima'(Korean traditional skirts), Bagi. They folded up the sleeves of the Jeogori. And they folded the 'Jambang-i-styled' pants to just above the knees, fastening at the waist. When they wore skirts, they also wore underpants under the skirt that went down to the knees. Most of them went barefoot and wore straw shoes, Jipsin. Through genre paintings, we can understand the ways and forms of our ancestor's clothing. And with our understanding, interest, and passion, we can be familiar with Hanbok in our daily life by succeeding and creating its peculiar style. And then we can promote the globalization of Hanbok.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.91-102
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• 2000

As an economy approach new state of affairs under the influence of the Shil-Hak philosophy, the Joshun society at 18th century gave common people to a chance to impress and to patronize the Arts. This social environment made an artist to drawing see and feel, this is a genre picture. Hong Do Kim(1745-1816 or 1818) was a typical genre picturer of Joshun, his picture reflected the time truthly and honestly and described vividly a life of common people, so expressed Realism what based on the actual. Therefore the purpose of this study is to analyze and to study costume of common people and their life style. The costume in a genre picture books are summarized. Man's basic dresses were Jugori and Baji uniformity, but based on the job or situation those had a little variation. People of a blacksmith shop wore that to enlarge sleeve of Bagi and Jugori and wore Strow Sandle exactly, in that way prepared for danger of treating hot iron. On the side, in the summer, Soikojambangiee and Deungguri jucksam wore at grain. The majority of hair style was Minsangtoo that Manggun not to be surrounded a head. Womam's basic dresses were Chima and Jugori, it was not to be different in compare with a woman of the aristocratic class, extremely appeal simplicity. But it was not to be of no accent on fashion even if common people, they wore a shot Dangko jugori that busts were seen below Jugori. A hair style was simple hair that her braid placed aboved a head, different with very richful hair style, Gachae that one‘s braid hair placed above a head, a hair style of woman of the aristocratic class and Kinuer. Because of common people's costume are not a special thing expect for basic dress-Jugori, Baji, Chima, many historical books or articles about costume are not existed. As the results of this study on costume of common people's life, we found that basic dresses appeared to a various types based on the job and the situation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.21
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• pp.177-192
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to present de-sign development and constructive method on man's Hanbok which can be put on daily-life clothing through supplementing the incon-venience of HanBok and to make men put on daily-life-HanBok through making the HanBok ready-made clothing which has lower-price. The concrete test and its process on devel-oped design are below. (1) In present there are five uncomfortable point waist closing baji's slitting and daenim (2) Developed the first design concentrating on uncomfortable parts with Korean costume-pattern (3) to supplement sleeve armhole and waist closing which are pointed out as the incon-venience at first design development did the second design development. The results through research and process are below. (1) In the functional test of testing clothing a testee is satisfied with jegory's closing at 87. 5% with pocket at 100% and with baji's front closing and daenim (2) The opinion of an observer on daily-life Hanbok is an affirmative response as following turns: traditional aspect practical use and aesthetic aspect. (3) Analyzing the relations between the characters of daily-life hanbok and the popu-lation density variables results are the popu-lation density variable results are followed below. Man has highe points than woman on asthetic and economical aspect. In preferences as educational levels more-educated person has an affirmative response on keeping traditions. In jobs students and white-collar people have affirmative responses on traditions. (4) What one wants to wear the most is the fourth Hanbok(mixing western and Korean costume style with Korean costume fabrics) and daily-life Hanbok with western costume fabrics has 51.8% preferences of responsers. With those results man's daily-life HanBok made through the first and the second design development lessens the inconvenience of Hanbok with some degrees. Also if daily-life Hanbok design continue to be developed through using Korean costume fabrics and western costume fabrics people can easily by functional and practical daily-life Hanbok because it can be massproduced.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.97-110
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• 2003

This study was done to investigate the wearing experience, the taste and attitudes toward Korean Costume(Traditional and Saenghwal Hanbok). Data were collected by self-administered question from 307 elementary school children and 307 mother during 7, 2002. Conclusions are as follows : 1. Hanbok was worn mainly in the first birthday of children and 6∼7years old. But it was rarely worn in 4th∼6th grade of elementary school. Most of children had worn the Traditional Hanbok, about 30% had worn the Saenghwal Hanbok. 2. Childrens liked Saenghwal Hanbok more than Traditional Hanbok, girls liked Hanbok more than boys did. And 31.4% of boys disliked Hanbok, the main motives for dislike were concerned with the discomfort to move, the feel of cloth and becoming. Boys prefered the style of ´vest/ Jeokori/ Bajii´ in Traditional Hanbok, and ´half-sleeve Jeokori/ Baji´ in Saenghwal Hanbok. Girls prefered the style of ´Dangeui/ Chima´ in Traditional Hanbok, and ´One piece/ Jeokori´ in Saenghwal Hanbok. Childrens prefered analogous color scheme to contrasting color scheme. Boys prefered the blue groups, girls prefered the orange and red groups. 3. Childrens had more positive attitudes towards Saenghwal Hanbok than Traditional Hanbok. Mothers had positive attitudes towards both these types. And the attitudes toward Saenghwal Hanbok and Traditional Hanbok of childrens were more positive than mother´s. Therefore the following suggestions may be proposed for the development of Hanbok for children. 1. Hanbok is need to be designed considering activity, feeling and becomingness for teenagers. 2. Hanbok design must be kept seperated Traditional Hanbok and Saenghwal Hanbok. Traditional Hanbok is need to emphases tradition, Saenghwal Hanbok is need to apply a western style and have a practical use.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.47
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• pp.61-72
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• 1999

For the establishment of ready made Hanbok for the people in their 20's this study aims to develope Bagi-chogori pattern that revives the esthetic quality of the traditional Hanbok as well as comfortably fit the body. Direct method was used in Measuring the 33 parts of men which was selected as items needed for the analysis of the body and the development of patterns. In accordance with the body measurement and the analysis of the result the bust girth and height which has interrelation was chosen as the standard size for the development of pattern. Men's Baji-chogori(Korean traditional Jacket and Pants) which doesn't request fitness for instance we drew out a cross table by giving 5cm intervals each for breast waist hip girth and height. Size system of Baji-chogori was 4 steps. 1st was bust 95cm height 165cm 2nd was bust girth 95cm height 170cm 3rd was bust girth 100cm height 175cm and the 4th was bust girth 105cm height 180cm. In the case of Men the grouping of bodies was attempted by concentrating on the difference of the drop amount(Bust girth to hip girth), However 90% of men in their 20's showed a silhouette of an inverted triangle. Therefore attempt for an additional grouping wasn's Only calculation concerning the ease amount of items such as bust which and length was considered to enhance the silhouette of Hanbok when worn. Men's body for instance have a tendency to change to a rectangular shape as they get older. specially the abdominal girth trend to increase greatly. So study and development of pattern should be made for all age groups.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.89-104
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• 2002

In this thesis I have tried to compare the lines, colors and shapes of the Chinese ethnic minorities of the Moi and the Baek who live in the southwestern region of China and that of Korea. From a functional point most of the clothing in this region were separated between a top and a bottom and used colors in the collar, sleeves and lines to emphasize the decorative and pragmatic use of the clothes. The Chinese southwestern dress style had no limits on the use of color or shapes between class and rank. This was also true of the colors and shapes that were used. On the other hand the Koreans, although having the same structure, used different colors and shapes in proportion to the Joe-go-ri and Baji combination and the Jeo-go-ri and Chima combination.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.766-777
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• 2012

The 13 genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(by Stewart Culin 1858~1929)" were used to study the late $19^{th}$ century's basic costumes and Games style in Korea. The people who appear in the paintings are 26 adult males, 2 minor males, 2 adult females and 3 kisaengs. Typical men wore 'Jeogori' which had various colors and white linings with a reached hip line, and knotted with a 'go-rum' on the right side. They also wore, white colored 'Baji' with colorful sash that were knot below knee or ankle together with 'Hang-jun' or 'Daenim'. They wore 'Beoseon'. Some men wore 'Po' whose colors were blue, green, indigo, white. The general women wore 'Jeogori' in deep green and light pink, indigo, green, red, and they matched with colors for 'Kit' and, 'Go-rum', 'Kut-dong' and its 'Go-rum' was short and narrow. It was so fit and short with narrow sleeve. It had 'Dunggun-kit'(round head collar) with white 'Dong-jung' and so it fit at neck. They wore 'Chi-ma' whose color was red, light green, or light indigo. It contrasted with 'Jeogori'. The width of 'Chi-ma' was big enough. Then white inner slacks came out under the skirt. Traditional Korean games can be classified according to age and gender. Then the games can be further classified into three categories : men's games, women's games, and games for all. The games for adult are an archery practice, hunting, shovel work with a karae, making a bow, drawing Jongkung-chart, Korean chess, playing paduk, and the Korean card game. A swing is a game for women. Games for both men and women are dice play, and domino game. Games for both adult and minor males are sledge, and tightrope walking. Through genre paintings in the $19^{th}$ century, I reached a conclusion that basic costumes are similar to 'Hanbok' at the present time and the method of wearing them has not changed much. It appears that the originality of traditional costumes has been maintained.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.129-138
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• 1998

Recently much attention is paid on the interest in putting Korean traditional clothes into practical use with reviewing a traditional culture. Thus, this study was made of clarifying the difference from sex and group by investigating morderns' consciousness, manner, purchasing and wearing state of Korean traditional dress. - It shows that since about the half of the person inquired doesn't wear the clothes once in a year, its frequency of wearing is very low. - The main reason for not wearing that clothes is due to its uneasiness of wearing. - In purchasing the clothes, color, tinning, quality of the clothes are important in order, and bright and luxurious colors are much favored. - About the half of the inquired possess that clothes, with most of them having about one or two dresses. - In a sort of their possession, man has Jeogori and Baji etc. and woman has only Chima, Jeogori and Sochima, or so. - It shows that while their interest in Korean traditional clothes is high, the interest in its practical wearing point of view is low. - In case of adult, interest in that clothes is relatively high in comparison with other group.

• Advances in nano research
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• v.1 no.4
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• pp.183-192
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• 2013

One-dimensional multiferroic nanostructured composites have drawn increasing interest as they show tremendous potential for multifunctional devices and applications. Herein, we report the synthesis, structural and dielectric characterization of barium titanate ($BaTiO_3$)-bismuth ferrite ($BiFeO_3$) composite fibers that were obtained using a novel sol-gel based electrospinning technique. The microstructure of the fibers was investigated using scanning electron microscopy and transmission electron microscopy. The fibers had an average diameter of 120 nm and were composed of nanoparticles. X-ray diffraction (XRD) study of the composite fibers demonstrated that the fibers are composed of perovskite cubic $BaTiO_3$-$BiFeO_3$ crystallites. The magnetic hysteresis loops of the resultant fibers demonstrated that the fibers were ferromagnetic with magnetic coercivity of 1500 Oe and saturation magnetization of 1.55 emu/g at room temperature (300 K). Additionally, the dielectric response of the composite fibers was characterized as a function of frequency. Their dielectric permittivity was found to be 140 and their dielectric loss was low in the frequency range from 1000 Hz to $10^7$ Hz.

• International Journal of Concrete Structures and Materials
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.141-155
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• 2014

The use of fiber reinforced polymer (FRP) composites in strengthening reinforced concrete beam-column subassemblies has been scrutinised both experimentally and numerically in recent years. While a multitude of numerical models are available, and many match the experimental results reasonably well, there are not many studies that have looked at the efficiency of different finite elements in a comparative way in order to clearly identify the best practice when it comes to modelling FRP for strengthening. The present study aims at investigating this within the context of FRP retrofitted reinforced concrete beam-column subassemblies. Two programs are used side by side; ANSYS and VecTor2. Results of the finite element modeling using these two programs are compared with a recent experimental study. Different failure and yield criteria along with different element types are implemented and a useful technique, which can reduce the number of elements considerably, is successfully employed for modeling planar structures subjected to in-plane loading in ANSYS. Comparison of the results shows that there is good agreement between ANSYS and VecTor2 results in monotonic loading. However, unlike VecTor2 program, implicit version of ANSYS program is not able to properly model the cyclic behavior of the modeled subassemblies. The paper will be useful to those who wish to study FRP strengthening applications numerically as it provides an insight into the choice of the elements and the methods of modeling to achieve desired accuracy and numerical stability, a matter not so clearly explored in the past in any of the published literature.